THE HOME GARDEN IN OCTOBER:

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 3, 15 September 1950, Page 244

THE HOME GARDEN IN OCTOBER:

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Vegetable Instructor,

Department of Agriculture, Auckland. WORK in the home garden in October is varied, and though discretion is necessary in sowing or planting frost-tender vegetables, every effort should be made to adhere to the planting scheme originally decided on. In southern districts there is still a likelihood of damaging frosts, but in northern districts frost-tender vegetables such as pumpkins, marrows, cucumbers, squash, kumaras, pepper, egg plant, sweet corn, and tomatoes can be set out. In districts south of Auckland some protection such as cloches, hot-caps, or wooden boxes with glass coverings will need to be given. IN northern districts main-crop potatoes should be planted, but in southern districts caution should be exercised, as frosts may occur well into November. To secure a succession of salad vegetables plantings should continue at intervals throughout October. Successional sowings of peas, beetroot, lettuce, spinach, turnips, and carrots and plantings of lettuce, cabbage, silver beet, and cauliflower can be made. In districts where there is little likelihood of late frosts seed of half-hardy vegetables such as dwarf and runner beans, melon, pumpkin, squash, and cucumber can be sown out of doors in warm positions. Chokos, which are suitable for growing only in the North Island, should be set out without further delay, as these vegetables require a long season of growth. In the South Island an early planting of brussels sprouts can be made if good-sized plants are available. Jerusalem artichokes can still be planted and in southern districts it is not too late to plant asparagus. Late-autumn and winter greens should not be forgotten and seed of leeks, brussels sprouts, curly kale, savoy cabbage, and broccoli can be sown. Dates of sowings for these vegetables during October or November vary according to district and variety.

Growing crops should be hoed frequently and crops such as cabbage and cauliflower should have the soil drawn up to them to provide support. For root crops such as carrots, onions, parsnips, turnips, and beetroot and small leaf crops like spinach and lettuce the soil should be level, with a free tilth. An advantage of cultivation apart from weed control and the conservation of moisture is that it assists in the retention of plant nutrients, particularly of valuable nitrates, by retarding their loss through leaching. In addition it improves aeration of the soil and increases the rapid absorption of heat and so creates for the plant a more favourable environment for its development. No work is as beneficial to the growth of a vegetable plant as frequent light cultivation. Earlier-sown crops of beetroot, carrots, turnips, silver beet, and parsnips should be lightly hoed as soon as they show through the ground and when they are large enough they should be thinned. Seedlings which are not to be transplanted will require thinning; this work should be done as soon as the plants are large enough to handle and before they begin to “draw” or become spindly from crowding. When rows of seedlings are thinned the strongest plants should be allowed to remain, due consideration being given to correct spacing. If plants are not correctly thinned, an inferior crop invariably results. Valuable time can be saved later and unnecessary consolidation of the soil avoided if supports for tomatoes and runner beans are placed in position before planting. The ground for these crops should now be worked up and prepared for planting. Earlier-sown peas should now be growing freely and will benefit from being moulded up and having supports provided to prevent their coming in contact with the soil; hedge clippings which have a number of small branches but no foliage are very suitable as supports. Plants of cabbage, cauliflower, and lettuce nearing maturity will benefit from frequent applications of liquid

Busy Month as New Season Advances

animal manure. If the soil is heavy and wet and extra moisture would be a disadvantage, a side dressing of nitrate of soda at the rate of loz. to 6 plants is preferable. Care must be taken not to let the fertiliser come in contact with the foliage or stems of the plants; it should be worked lightly into the soil. Asparagus* Most established asparagus beds will now be producing spears and will benefit from a weekly application of liquid animal manure made by suspending a quantity of animal manure in a bag in a large container of water. Sufficient animal manure should be used to give the liquid the colour of strong tea. When harvesting asparagus consideration must be given to the age and vigour of the crowns. The object is to cut only as much as will not exhaust the plants. Even with rich soil and plenty of moisture plants weakened by heavy cutting have insufficient time to regain normal vigour before growth ceases in late autumn, with the result that a lowered yield is generally secured the following season. Usually a light cutting lasting about 2 weeks can be made the second year after establishing the bed, and in the third year cutting may continue for a month. In subsequent years cutting continues for about 8 weeks. Cutting should cease in time to allow the plants to develop strong, vigorous fern growth, which will manufacture and store sufficient food in the roots for the production of good spears the following year. In harvesting, the spears should be cut a little below the surface with a knife with a chisel-like point. A good guide is to cut half as deep as the top of the crown is below the surface; if the crown is 3in. down, the spears are cut lain, below the surface. The spears are usually cut when they protrude 6in. above the ground, and care should be taken to avoid damaging nearby young spears and buds by pushing the knife straight down near the spear to be harvested. If the spear is held and gently pulled with the hand, it will cut easily. Beans

There are numerous kinds and varieties of beans. These vary greatly in flavour, season of maturity, and other characteristics, thus catering for many tastes and purposes. Beans are grown in home gardens mainly for the unripe pods, which are boiled for eating, but the seed of the haricot, broad, lima, 1

and edible soya bean, which contains large quantities of fats and proteins, is the important portion.

French or kidney beans (Phaseolus vulgaris) can be divided into two groups, climbing and dwarf. Dwarf varieties crop sooner from planting than climbing sorts, but do not bear for such a long period. It is advisable to grow both kinds in the garden. All varieties except broad beans are frost tender and require warm conditions for germination and growth. ' The scarlet runner (Phaseolus multiflorus), which undoubtedly is the hardiest of its kind, differs from other runner types in that it is a perennial. The roots of this bean thicken and in well-drained soils where winter conditions are not too severe the thick, fleshy roots will shoot again each spring, usually when frost danger is past. Established roots will produce pods about 2 weeks earlier than plants from seed sown in spring. All bean pods are green when they are small, but some turn white or yellow as they approach the edible stage. Yellow sorts are called butter or wax-pod beans. Thick, fleshypodded beans are also known as “snap”

beans, because the pods snap cleanly when bent and are free of “strings”.

Beans can be grown in a wide range of soils, but welldrained, easily worked loam of good humus content is most satisfactory. The scarlet runner bean will continue to crop for a much longer period if an adequate water supply is maintained. One of the main reasons for the plant failing to set its flowers is insufficient moisture during dry weather. To maintain a regular supply of beans, sowings should be made every 3 to 4 weeks from the end of September or early Octoberaccording to district —until the end of January. These dates apply to the warmer districts and adjustments must be made in parts of New Zealand where late or early frosts occur. The ground should be well worked and limed before seed is sown. Most leguminous plants require lime and do not yield their best in sour soils. From J to gib. of lime to the square yard is usually sufficient for most soils. Provided the soil is moderately rich, the only fertiliser required is a light dressing of superphosphate (j-lb. per square yard) worked into the top 4in. of soil. The seed of dwarf varieties should be sown in drills 2ft. to 2ft. 6in. apart, allowing about 4in. between the seeds. Beans should be planted from lj to 2in. deep, depending on the type of soil and its moisture content, the shallow depth being for heavier soils or when the moisture content is high. Climbing varieties such as Market Wonder require 4ft. between the rows and at least 6in. between the plants in the rows. If the seed is planted too thickly, there is not sufficient room' for the development of the roots of the plant and poor yields result. Perennial climbing beans should be well provided with food material before planting and it is a good plan to dig a trench 12in. deep and about Ift. wide, fill it to within 6in. of the top with compost or well-decayed animal manure, and cover it with soil. Climbing beans require supports; these may consist of a wire-netting fence, preferably 6 to Bft. high, or they can be supported by wooden stakes 6 to Bft. long placed in a double row spaced Ift. apart each way. The stakes are drawn together in pairs at the top and attached to a cross stake; two seeds are set, one on each side of each stake. Another method useful for a spare corner is to place four 7ft. stakes 2ft. apart each way to form a square and to draw

the tops together wigwam fashion and tie them; three seeds are set to each stake. (See the diagram on this page.) Recommended varieties are:—

Dwarf: Early: Pale Dunn and Prince. Main crop: Tender Green, Black Valentine, also the butter or wax varieties Sure Crop, Golden Wax, and Bountiful Wax. Late: Sydney Wonder (semi-dwarf). A main crop dwarf variety Boston Bountiful makes an excellent winter haricot when dried, but it is not suitable for cooking as a green bean. . Tall or climber: Fardenlosa and Market Wonder. Perennial runner: Streamliner and Improved Scarlet Runner. Lima Beans (Phaseolus lunatus) The botanical differences between lima and common beans are not great, but the two types will not cross. Lima beans, which have a characteristic flavour, are" shelled before cooking or are dried for winter use. They are grown like french beans, but, as they are more sensitive to cold, it is generally advisable to sow the seed a little later, even though the beans take longer to mature. There are climbing and dwarf varieties. A good tall variety is King of the Garden and satisfactory dwarf varieties are Burpees Bush, Baby Fordhook, and Baby Potato. Edible Soya Beans (Soya hispida) The soya bean has been grown in the Orient for 4000 years or more. The main nutritional value of the bean is its high protein and fat content, which is about 40 per cent, for protein and 20 per cent, for fat. The carbohydrate content is about 25 per cent, and the starch content is practically nil, which makes the bean of value to diabetics. The soya bean will grow well in nearly all types of soil, but it does best in loams containing a fair quantity of potash, lime, and phosphoric acid. Where they are grown for the first time the plants generally make poor growth unless the seed has first been inoculated. They require certain strains of bacteria not normally present in New Zealand soils, and if soya bean seed is planted in the same ground the following year, the plant

THE HOME GARDEN IN OCTOBER

growth will show a marked improvement and once the crop has been grown no further attention to inoculation is necessary, providing soya beans are grown in the same ground at least every 3 years. A method often used in inoculating the seed consists of moistening 1 bushel of seed with a solution of 3oz. of glue or sugar dissolved in a quart of water and then thoroughly mixing it with 2 quarts of finely sifted inoculated soil. Inoculated soil may be obtained from an area where soya beans have recently been grown. Inoculated seed should be sown as soon as possible after treatment and a dull day is best for planting, as strong sunlight may prove fatal to the bacteria. Usually rows planted 24 to 30in. apart give the best results on fertile soils, but for poorer soils 36in. spacings are advisable. The seed should be sown at a depth of lg to 2in. with a space of 4in. between seeds. It has been estimated that there are more than 3000 distinct varieties of the soya bean. In selecting the varieties to grow consideration must be given to the maturity period, which ranges from 75 to 200 days. Early-maturing

varieties are better suited to localities with short growing seasons. ’ .. Varieties: For New Zealand conditions the most suitable varieties in order of maturity are Mandarin (100 days), Ito San (105 days), and Manchu (110 days). Beetroot Beetroot is grown in nearly all home gardens. It is not difficult to grow and is tolerant to both warm and cool conditions; under favourable conditions a 30ft. row will yield 50 to 601 b. of goodquality beets. Beetroot can be grown in almost all types of soils and should, if possible, follow a leaf crop such as cabbage or lettuce. Where the ground has been previously heavily manured a dressing, of superphosphate at the rate of Jib. per square yard worked into the top 3in. of soil is all that is required. As beetroot is sensitive to soil acidity, lime is usually necessary on soils not recently dressed. On such soils a dressing of carbonate of lime, 4oz. a square yard, worked in some ■ time before sowing is often satisfactory. Seed should be sown thinly in rows . 12in. apart and the seedlings thinned to 3in. apart in the rows. When thinning, care should be taken to “single” the plants, as generally two or more grow from the same seed vessel. Recommended varieties are Derwent Globe, Obelisk, and Early Wonder. Cabbage and Cauliflower Cabbage and cauliflower plants can be set out 18 to 24in. apart in the rows with a 24 to 30in. spacing between the rows. The soil should be well prepared and enriched, preferably with well-rotted animal manure, to promote rapid growth to mature the plants before the weather becomes too hot. This applies especially to cauliflowers, which are seriously affected at maturity by very hot weather, which causes malformation of the curds. Where animal manure is not available a mixture composed of 2 parts of blood and bone, 1 part of sulphate of ammonia, and 1/8 part of sulphate of potash, all by weight, should be sown at the rate of Jib. to each 6ft. along shallow furrows in which the plants

are set out. The fertiliser should be well mixed with the soil to avoid any chance of injuring the roots of the plants. Recommended varieties for planting now are: Cabbage: Enfield Market, Flower of Spring, and Golden Acre. Cauliflower: Early London and Early Snowball. - Carrots A successional sowing of carrots as the main crop can now be made. Carrots are not difficult to grow and are one of the most important vegetables in the garden. They are very rich in vitamin A, a good source of vitamin B t , and contain some vitamin B 2 and vitamin C. Carrots have a long period of availability and maturity periods ranging from 65 to 100 days. In localities where the carrot rust fly is troublesome it is wiser to delay sowing the main crop until November or December, as the depredations of this pest are usually less severe on latersown crops. Ground that has been well manured for a previous crop, preferably a leaf crop such as cabbage or lettuce, should be selected for the growing of carrots. If fertilisers must be used, they should consist of equal parts of bonedust and superphosphate plus 5 per cent, of sulphate of potash, but fresh manure must not be used, as this causes the roots to fork. If dry wood ashes are available, a dressing of Jib. a square yard can be substituted for the sulphate of potash. Seed should be sown J to Jin. deep in drills, which should be spaced 12in. apart, and when the seedlings are about 2in. high they should be thinned to about 3in. apart. Where the carrot rust fly is troublesome care should be taken to refirm the soil after thinning the seedlings. This can be done by giving the carrot rows a good watering. Recommended varieties are: — Early planting: Early Crop and Early Horn. Main crop: Chantenay and Manchester Table. Intermediate and Nantes are suitable for main crops in deep soils. Cucumber The cucumber (Cucumis sativus) is a native of Egypt and Asia. It is distinctly a plant requiring warm conditions and is easily injured by frost and cold weather. However, as plants need only a relatively short season to produce their crop, they can be grown with varying degrees of success in almost all parts of New Zealand. They are easy to grow if a warm, sunny spot is available. They yield heavily; a few plants will supply most needs and will add to the variety in the garden. As cucumbers are sensitive to cold soils, they should not be planted in the open until the ground has warmed up. For an early crop seed may be started under glass in small containers such as flower pots or strawberry chips and planted out in the garden when soil and climatic conditions are right. Seed should be sown 3 to 4 weeks before it is desired to set plants out in the garden. Temperatures for cucumbers should be slightly higher than for most other plants raised under glass. The soil should not be watered too much, but just kept moist, and before planting out plants should first be slowly subjected to out-

side conditions. Cucumber plants will stand replanting better when the soil is not disturbed from their? roots; if this is not possible, a sheet of newspaper placed over them like a tent for 2 or 3 days after they have been set out and held in position with soil will be of benefit. It is an advantage to have the plants covered with plant protectors such as cloches or hot-caps during cool periods when the plants are still young. The cucumber requires a rich, well-worked soil and plenty of moisture during the growing season. For the home garden good results can be obtained by digging a round hole 4 to 6in. deep and Ift. 6in. in diameter in a warm, sunny, sheltered part of the garden, filling it with fairly fresh animal manure, and replacing the soil so that a round bed 4in. high with a flat top is formed. Several seeds may be planted Jin. deep around the bed. More seeds than the number of plants required are usually sown to provide

against poor germination. The plants should later be ' thinned to four. If artificial fertilisers are used instead of animal manure, a suitable mixture is blood and bone 4 parts and superphosphate 1 part, well mixed into the soil in the bed before planting. To encourage the development of lateral growth and assist early fruiting the tips of the vines should be pinched out when .they are about 2ft. to 2ft. 6in. long. Recommended varieties are White Spine, Moneymaker, Early Fortune, Davis Perfect, Short and Long Prickly, Crystal Apple (the fruit of which is apple shaped with a pure white skin when mature), and West Indian Gherkin. The last bears very small fruits and is used almost solely for pickling. Kohl Rabi or Turnip-rooted Cabbage Kohl rabi resembles an aboveground turnip, the fleshy edible portion being an enlargement of the stem; when cooked it combines the flavour of both cabbage and turnip. To secure tender bulbs it should be grown quickly and used when the bulbs are 2J- to 3in. in diameter. If they are allowed to reach maturity, the bulbs become tough and stringy. Kohl rabi is hardy and can be grown equally well in hot or cool weather. October is the recommended month for planting. It grows best in a well-drained soil rich in humus. For most soils a mixture of 2 parts of blood and bone and 1 part of superphosphate applied at the rate of 4 to Boz. a square yard will be found beneficial. Seed should be sown Jin. deep in rows 15in. apart and later thinned to 6to Bin. in the rows. Lack of moisture during the growing period may check growth and cause • a bitter flavour to develop. Recommended varieties are Large Green and Large Purple. Kumaras Kumaras (sweet potatoes) require a frost-free growing period of approximately 5 months and in the South

Island, except for the warmer parts, they can rarely be grown to maturity. A method of raising plants was described in the July issue of the “Journal”. It is now time to plant them, and if plants have not already been raised at home, they should be purchased from a reliable nurseryman.

Kumaras will grow in most welldrained soils, but prefer a warm sandy or volcanic soil that is not too deep and has a good firm subsoil. Animal manures or nitrogenous fertilisers are not recommended and it is preferable to use ground which was well manured for a previous crop. If a fertiliser is needed, a mixture of equal parts of bonedust and superphosphate plus 10 per cent, of sulphate of potash is recommended. This should be sown in a 12in. band along the row at the rate of 2oz. per yard and the soil drawn up over it, forming a ridge 6in. high and 15in. wide with a slightly flattened top. Side dressings are not recommended, as they encourage the roots to spread and the tubers form too far out from the row.

Plants should be set out 16in. apart with 2ft. 6in. between the rows. A warm day is desirable for planting and care should be taken to bend the root of each plant and to, cover it to the same depth as it was in the nursery bed. The bending of the root to form a letter J with the tail under the ground is important, as it stimulates tuber development and heavier cropping than that resulting from perpendicular planting. (See the diagram on this page.) Cultivation for kumaras should be shallow and confined to weed control and occasional raising of the vines to prevent them attaching themselves to the soil; if vines are allowed to become attached to the soil, they make heavy growth at the expense of the tubers. Varieties: Two good varieties which are most commonly grown are Tauranga Red and the common native variety which has a pink skin. Lettuce Any rich soil will grow good lettuce provided sufficient lime has been applied to correct acidity. Good compost and well-rotted manure will improve the soil, but fresh manure or undecomposed materials should not be dug in just before setting out the plants.

Lettuce to be tender and crisp should be grown quickly and a nitrogenous fertiliser such as blood and bone broadcast at the rate of Jib. per square yard before planting should give satisfactory results. Just before the plants begin to heart it will be found beneficial to apply nitrate of soda at the rate of loz. per 3 yards of row and this should be lightly worked into the soil. Do not allow the fertiliser to come in contact with the plants, or burning of the foliage may result. Seed should be sown thinly Jin. deep in rows 6in. apart or broadcast and covered lightly with soil and the plants transplanted when they are about 3in. high. For a continual supply, seed should be sown every 4 weeks.

Suitable varieties for sowing or planting in October are:. Great Lakes, Neapolitan (Webbs or New York), and Imperial 847. Parish White is a suitable variety of cos-type lettuce. Mignonette, a small compact type, is very early and a sure header, and is very suitable for the home garden, especially where it is difficult to grow lettuce satisfactorily. Parsnips Although parsnips can be sown with good results as late as January in the North Island, they require a long season of growth and in the South Island it is advisable to sow the main crop without delay. Parsnips grow

THE HOME GARDEN IN OCTOBER

well in almost all soils where vegetables can be grown and best results are obtained if they are sown on land that was heavily manured for a previous crop. Superphosphate broadcast at the rate of 2 to 4oz. per square yard and, if available, dry wood ashes at the same rate will benefit the crop. Rows should be 18in. apart and depth of seeding should be in. A fine tilth is desirable. Because parsnip seed rapidly loses its power of germination, it. is usual to sow the seed fairly thickly. Thinning should be done when the plants are about 2in. high. If plants are first thinned to about tin. or 2in. apart, the final thinning to 4 or 6in. apart can be left until the young roots have become a usable size for soups and stews. Half an ounce of seed is sufficient for 100 ft. of row. Hollow Crown is the best main-crop variety. Peas To keep up the supply of peas it is necessary, because of their short season, to make frequent sowings, and these should be continued this month. Peas do best in fairly cool weather and at this period of the year will grow well in most soils which have a fair humus content. A dressing of superphosphate or bonedust at the rate of 2 to 3oz. a square yard should be worked into the soil before sowing. The seed may be sown lin. apart along a broad drill drawn out with a hoe to a depth of 2in. Seedlings should be earthed up as they grow to provide some support and will produce betterquality pods if . given additional support with thin stakes. A pound of seed will sow about 100 ft. of row. Satisfactory varieties for. sowing this month are Greenfeast, Stratagem, William Massey, and Quartermaster; the last-named variety grows to a height of 3ft. Potatoes Potatoes grow well in most welldrained. garden soils. An artificial fertiliser mixture of 3 parts of superphosphate and 1 part of sulphate of ammonia or equal parts of superphosphate and blood and bone applied along the rows, using a weight of manure equivalent to the weight of

tubers, will increase yields. Tubers may be cut or planted whole as desired. When cutting seed potatoes it is preferable to cut them into blocks with two eyes to each set rather than in wedge-shaped pieces.

Tubers should be planted sin. deep in rows 2ft. 6in. apart, allowing about 15in. between each set.

Recommended varieties for October planting are Arran Chief, Aucklander Short Top, King Edward, InvernessFavourite, and, for southern districts. Dakota, a red-skinned main-crop variety. Tomatoes Tomatoes should be grown in every home garden, as they are always appreciated during the summer and grow under a wide range of conditions, requiring relatively little space for large production. The tomato is frost tender and cannot be safely planted in the open until all danger from frost is past. Although they may be planted out in October in most northern districts, it will not be safe, except in a few favoured areas, to begin planting outside in southern districts until the middle of November. If desired, plants may be raised in a small cool frame and seed should be' sown 7 to 8 weeks before it is desired to set the plants out in the garden. However, most gardeners prefer tobuy plants; these should be stocky and well grown and about 6in. high. Avoid spindly, drawn-up plants which have not been properly hardened oil. Hardening off is done by subjecting the plants gradually to conditions similar to those they will have when planted out. If bought plants appear to be very tender, it is advisable to harden them off at home if the. weather is uncertain. As certain tomato diseases are soil borne, it is desirable to plant in a fresh position each year or at least toavoid land which has been used for this crop during the preceding 3 years. A well-drained, warm position is desirable and the soil should be deeply dug. A good fertile soil is an advantage and stable manure, compost, or a green crop can be used to improve the soil. Stable manure and any green material should be dug into the soil sufficiently early before planting to decompose completely before the plants are set out. A fertiliser mixture of equal parts of superphosphate and blood and bone plus 5 per cent, of sulphate of potash, applied at the rate of Boz. to 6ft. of row, should be worked into the top 4in. of soil, and if a good supply of wood ashes is available, they can be used at the same rate as fertiliser instead of the sulphate of potash. Although it is not usual to support dwarf varieties, they will produce better-quality fruits if they are prevented from coming in contact with the soil. Dwarf tomatoes require more space than tall varieties and should be planted 3ft. apart with the rows 4ft. apart. Tall-growing varieties may be set 2ft. by 2ft. or 18in. by 3ft. In localities where late blight, stemborer caterpillar, and the tomato worm caterpillar are troublesome plants should be protected from the time of planting by spraying them at 10-day intervals with Bordeaux mixture and D.D.T. prepared from 4oz. of bluestone and oz. of hydrated lime in 4 gallonsof water plus |oz. of D.D.T. 50 per cent, wettable powder. Copper oxychloridemay be used instead of Bordeaux .mixture if desired. Suitable varietiesare:— Dwarf: South Australian Dwarf Red, Pearl Harbour, and Tatura Dwarf Globe. Tall: Potentate, Best of All, Market King, Supreme, and Abundance.

*An article by Eva Topping, Rural Sociologist, Department of Agriculture, Auckland, dealing with the preparation, cooking, and serving of asparagus appears on page 275.