TEA

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 81, Issue 1, 15 July 1950, Page 81

TEA

By

NELL MACPHERSON,

Rural Sociologist,

Department of Agriculture, Auckland.

ALTHOUGH the origin of the use of tea as a beverage has caused much speculation, it is thought that the Chinese Emperor Sheti-Nung first started the habit of tea drinking in 2737 B.C. It later became widespread in Asia, particularly in Japan, where an elaborate ritual for tea drinking grew up, but tea was not at all common in Europe until many centuries later when the Dutch imported it from the East early in the seventeenth century. About ten years later in the same century it was brought overland to Russia. THE custom of tea drinking soon had a wide appeal in Holland, where tea was thought to have medicinal qualities, but it was little more than a fashionable novelty in England till 1660. It first became popular in court circles where Catherine de Braganza, who brought the habit with her from Portugal, introduced it. From then on it became increasingly popular, though it was very expensive, averaging between 12s. and 13s. a pound and once even reaching £2 18s. 4d. a pound. In spite of the high cost, it soon became so extensively used among all classes of the community as to be the national beverage. This was regarded by foreign observers to be an indication of a tremendous wave of prosperity in England, whereas it was really an indication of a tremendous wave of smuggling. It was estimated at the time that probably two-thirds of the tea drunk in England was smuggled into the country. For many years most of the tea used was China tea and it was not until 1839 that Indian tea was sold on the London market. Shortly after this it became possible to buy various types and blends of tea, and some of the wealthier, people kept their own tea blenders and tasters. Teas take 1 their names from the countries in which they are grown, the method of curing the leaf, and the position of . the leaf on the stem. They may be fermented, in which case they are black, or unfermented, when they are green, or partially fermented. Teas are subdivided into broken grades, which are the smaller leaves and pieces sifted from the bulk or resulting from cutting, and leaf grades, which are the larger pieces and leaves. Indian, Pakistan, Ceylon, Indonesian, and British African teas are nearly always black and are obtainable in Orange Pekoe, Pekoe, and Pekoe Souchong' in leaf grades and Broken Orange Pekoe. Broken Pekoe, Broken Pekoe Souchong, Fannings, and Dust in broken grades. China and Japanese teas are generally green teas: Young Hyson, Hyson Nos. 1 and 2, Gunpowder, Twankay, Fannings, and Dust.

Oolong tea, which is a partially fermented tea, is prepared in. China and Formosa and comes in one grade only. These grades are not an indication of quality, as that is affected by still other factors. ~ There are distinct differences in the flavour of these various grades of tea. For instance, many of the China teas seem to be rather sweet scented. Unfortunately it is not possible to buy all these various grades of tea in New Zealand at present, though it is probable that in a few years they will be available again. At present it is possible to buy both blended Ceylon and blended China teas. Cheap teas normally consist of a larger percentage of what is known in the trade as “common tea”; that is, tea grown at lower altitudes and poorly manufactured, and lacking the finer flavour or colour characteristic of highgrown and better teas. Tea as a beverage can be drunk either hot or cold and can be made in many different ways with different flavourings added. An earthenware or china teapot is generally thought to be best to make tea in, but most enamel and silver teapots are quite satisfactory. It is important that the teapot should not be stained inside, as that can affect both the colour and flavour of the tea. This is more likely, to occur where the water is hard and stains may be difficult to remove. To make a good cup of tea the infusion or steeping method is best. The tea is steeped for a few minutes in hot water but must never be boiled, as that extracts the tannin from the leaves. Steeping tea for too long also extracts the tannin, which gives the tea a bitter, astringent flavour. Bring the water to the boil, scald the teapot, and place in it 1 teaspoon of tea for each cup of water. Pour the

boiling water over the tea and stand the teapot in a warm place for 3 minutes to extract the flavour and the theine, which is a mild stimulant and gives tea its refreshing quality. Serve in a cup, preferably heated, with either milk or lemon. Sugar may be added if desired. The use of a cosy to keep the teapot warm will ensure hotter tea. Before refilling a tea cup, always pour out the slops. Green tea: Allow 1 teaspoon of tea per person. To swell the leaves so that the full flavour is extracted put the tea into a strainer or a teapot and pour on 1 cup of boiling water. Leave it for half a minute and then pour off the liquid and add 1 cup of boiling water to each teaspoon of tea. Leave for 3 minutes and serve with slices of lemon. When making tea for a number of people it is usual to add 1 teaspoon of tea per person and 1 extra teaspoon of tea. The amount of tea used varies of course with the taste of the people for whom it is made. - ' Iced tea: Half fill “iced-tea” glasses with crushed ice or ice cubes. Fill the glasses with freshly made hot tea which is twice as strong as usual. The ice as it melts dilutes the tea to the right strength. Serve the iced tea with sliced lemon or orange or with lemon juice. If a refrigerator is available, variety may be given to iced tea by using lemon-juice cubes, ice ■ cubes with slices of lemon or orange in them, or sprigs of mint. A piece of non-crystallised orange peel may also be added to the tea leaves before the boiling water is poured on. Another method of preparing iced tea is by making tea of ordinary strength, pouring it off after 3 minutes, and allowing it to cool, and' later refrigerating it before serving. This tea sometimes becomes cloudy.

METHODS OF MAKING TEA

Spiced Tea 1 teaspoon of allspice I stick of cinnamon 1 teaspoon of cloves 1 lemon rind. I orange rind Water to cover Simmer the ingredients together for 20 minutes. Make 4 cups of tea in the usual way, add to the spice mixture, and strain. Add 4 tablespoons <of orange- juice and 3 tablespoons of lemon juice and sugar to taste. Serve the spiced tea either hot or cold. Billy tea: When making tea outdoors it is not necessary to use a teapot, as a very satisfactory “brew” can be made in a billy. Boil the billy of water over a fire and if it has no lid

lay a green twig across the top to prevent the water from becoming smoked. When the water is boiling add the'tea and remove the billy from the fire immediately. Leave it for 3 minutes before serving the tea. Billy tea is also associated with “.swaggers.” Sometimes a swagger who was short of tea would drain off most of the liquid and leave the wet leaves in the billy for use at his next meal. This was not always a good idea, because if wet leaves were left in the billy overnight the tannic acid from them would dissolve the tinning on the billy and form a poisonous compound which when the billy was next boiled would make the drinkers sick. Tea made in large. quantities for seasonal operations such as fruit picking and threshing is not always a success. This difficulty may be overcome by preparing the tea in the house and carrying it down to the field in insulated containers. To every 50 workers an allowance of lib. of tea may be made; this makes 3 gallons of tea. Estimate the amount of tea required and make it in the ordinary way ina large teapot or a billy. Pour it off into the containers. (Seven-pound syrup tins are a useful size when they are available, as they have tight-fitting lids.) Wrap the billies in newspaper and put them in a basket to carry them down from the house. It is wiser not to add the milk to the tea until it is being served. It is also possible to make the tea by putting the tea leaves in a muslin bag in the billy and pouring on the boiling water. Stir the bag round in the water for 3 minutes and then remove it and squeeze it lightly. Tea is probably first favourite in the British Commonwealth as a beverage and is used in many different ways, from the formal afternoon tea and church soiree to “elevenses,” “smoko,” and that “nice cup of tea” enjoyed while listening to the radio.