THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 79, Issue 6, 15 December 1949, Page 539

THE HOME GARDEN IN JANUARY

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Vegetable Instructor,

Department of Agriculture, Auckland.

IN January the flush of the growing season is over and the garden filled with newly-planted, growing, and maturing crops, but because the garden is fully planted it does not mean that further attention is not required; on the contrary there is much to be done. The hoe and other cultivating implements should be used frequently to keep weed growth down and conserve soil moisture. Weed control is much easier at this time of the ' year because weeds which earlier in the season had to be gathered up after cultivation will now die rapidly in the hot sun after hoeing. Weeds not only rob the plants of food and soil moisture and are hosts for disease, but if allowed to develop their seed will increase the weed population next season.

DURING January care should be taken to see that the soil moisture is sufficient for good growth, especially for such crops as lettuce, peas, beans, and celery, these vegetables being influenced to a great extent by the moisture content of the soil. Asparagus beds and pumpkin and melon crops will require hand weeding. At this period of the year liquid manure can be applied with advantage to most crops. Liquid manure can be made from animal manure tied in a piece of sacking and suspended in water; about 21b. of reasonably fresh manure to a gallon of water will make a suitable mixture. Excellent

liquid manure can also be made with soot (lib. to a gallon of water and treated in the same manner as animal manure). Nitrate of soda and sulphate of ammonia, loz. of either to 4 gallons of water, are also . useful liquid manures. If the soil is very dry, it is advisable to water the soil before applying the liquid manure. Tomato plants should be tied to supports and the lateral growths removed regularly as they develop. In districts where blight is experienced the plants should be sprayed regularly. Protecting Potato Crops Growing potato crops should be kept earthed up to protect them from the potato moth, which is usually very active during this period. For the control of late blight it will be necessary to spray at frequent intervals with Bordeaux mixture (a certified copper oxychloride may be used in the place of Bordeaux). Mature potato crops should not be left in the soil after the tops have died down. At this period of the year crops left for any length of time after the skins of the tubers have become firm are liable to be damaged by sunbaking and to attack from the potato tuber moth. If the soil has been dry, the tubers may start quickly into second growth when rain is experienced. Kumara runners should be lifted periodically to prevent them attaching themselves to the soil. If this is done regularly, the vines will not mat together and are much easier to turn. The soil should be drawn up to sweet corn as it grows to help support the plant, and where exposed to strong winds plants should be supported with stakes. As the cobs form, a watch should be kept for signs of caterpillars which may be attacking the cobs and are usually found at the silk end of the cob. For control apply D.D.T. as a spray or dust.

All members of the brassica family will need protection from the caterpillars of the white butterfly and diamond-backed moth or aphides and should be dusted or sprayed frequently with recommended specifics. In southern districts January is the latest it is advisable to sow peas, french beans, carrots, and swedes to mature before the cold weather sets in, ■ but for most northern districts these vegetables may still be planted during February and March. Provided soil moisture can be maintained, spinach, silver beet, beetroot, turnip, radish, lettuce, and kohl rabi may be sown now and celery and lettuce can be planted out. In Auckland and surrounding localities celery and parsnip seed can still be sown and sweet corn planted before the middle of the month. Winter Greens A continuous supply of vegetables is the aim of all keen gardeners, and to secure an unbroken supply of winter greens it will be necessary to plant now. Cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, curly kale, brussels sprouts, and leeks can be grown in all districts for winter supply. Onion crops should be nearing maturity. If good bulbs have formed and the tops are still green, ripening may be speeded up by bending the neck of the onion stalk; this retards the flow of sap from the roots, causing quicker development of the bulb. To promote lateral growth, which bears the fruit, leading growth of pumpkins, marrows, cucumbers, water melons, and rock melons should be stopped by pinching off the terminal shoot when leaders have run about 6 to Bft. To induce lateral growths of rock melons pinch out the leader as soon as three or four rough leaves have grown and meantime keep the laterals from bearing fruit. When the four’main branches are well grown the fruit-bearing laterals can be allowed to develop and flower, and when the fruit is set, the laterals must be stopped at one or two leaves beyond it. When the fruit is about lin. long thin out to about six or seven to each plant and pinch off all subsequent blossoms as well as any weak or subsequent growths. This procedure limits

the number of fruits, but improves the size which the fruits will attain. Cucumbers should be pinched out when the leading growths have made four rough leaves, to induce lateral growths; these in turn should be pinched back to develop the fruitbearing laterals, and as soon as the fruit has formed pinch these back also at two joints beyond the fruit. Continue this treatment as long as necessary to increase the bearing productivity of the plants. Cucumbers and marrows should be picked as soon as they attain a useable size. If left on the vine after reaching maturity they lose flavour and seriously retard the development of the younger fruits. The shallot crop should now be reaching maturity and this condition can be recognised by the withering of the tops. Where shallots have not yet reached maturity, weeds should be removed. Weed control is particularly important, as weeds not only use up available plant food, but when the ground is wet tend to make conditions favourable for fungous diseases to attack the bulbs. When mature the clusters of bulbs should be pulled up, spread in a cool place to dry off thoroughly, and then stored. If carefully handled and stored in a dry place where fresh air is constantly circulating, shallots will keep in perfect condition well on toward the end of the year. Beetroot Types of beetroot and varieties of each type (with the maturity period in days of the variety shown in parentheses) are as follows: — Flat: Egyptian, Early Wonder (52). Round or globular: Crimson Globe, Derwent Globe, Detroit Dark Red (60). Half-long: Obelisk (65). Long: Long Smooth Red, Long Dark Blood (78). Beetroot, which are grown for table use in nearly all home gardens, are a useful vegetable in a number of ways over a long period. Early thinnings can be used as greens. The quality of beet is best before they have reached maturity, and when fully grown they should be pulled and stored, as they have a tendency to become stringy and lose much of their sweet taste if left in the soil. Properly

stored beetroot will keep in good condition for several months. The leaf growth of beetroot which are to be stored should be twisted off, leaving the leaf stalks attached to the bulb; leaves should not be cut off, because this will cause the beet to bleed and will result in poor flesh colour when beet are cooked. Store in a reasonably moist, cool, airy place by stacking the beet in a heap with the outside layers placed leaf end out. The heap should not be more than 2ft. high and 4ft. wide, or it may heat. Cover the heap with straw to prevent the beet from shrivelling. Rapid growth, for which a fertile soil sufficiently friable to foster the proper development of the roots is required, is essential in producing good-quality beet. A fine, smooth seedbed is advisable and it facilitates even germination and makes the task of cultivation and weeding easier. Soil that forms a crust is undesirable because of the difficulty in getting the beet to come up. As beetroot is fairly sensitive to soil acidity, lime, preferably applied some time previously, is usually necessary. Where the soil has not been limed recently an application of carbonate of lime may be made at the rate of 2 to 4oz. per square yard. Fertiliser

containing blood and bone 1 part, superphosphate 2 parts, and sulphate of potash 1/20 part (all by weight) may be applied at the rate of 2 to 4oz. per square yard and will be suitable for most soils. It is preferable for beet to be planted without additional fertiliser in land previously occupied by a crop which has been heavily manured. Seed should be sown thinly Jin. deep in rows 12in. apart and the plants later thinned to 3 to 4in. apart in the rows. Recommended varieties .of beetroot for January planting are Early Wonder and Derwent Globe. Kohl Rabi (Turnip-rooted Cabbage) Kohl rabi resembles an aboveground turnip; the fleshy, edible portion is an enlargement of the stem and it is a highly nutritive vegetable combining the flavour of cabbage and turnip. The large, bulb-like stem is the part generally used, although the leaves may be cut and used like cabbage. Kohl rabi should be grown quickly and used when the bulbs are from 3 to 4in. in diameter, as if left to grow to maturity, bulbs become tough and stringy. Kohl rabi may be sown from early spring to February, but January sowing is most favoured, as the crop then matures in late autumn when other vegetables are perhaps a little scarce. It does best in a well-worked deep loam. Like cabbage it will not do well on an acid soil, and if this condition exists, it should be corrected by applying carbonate of lime (4oz. to a square yard). As kohl rabi does not transplant readily, it is best sown direct in the permanent position. Sow seed thinly Jin. deep in rows 18in. apart and thin plants to 6to Bin. in the rows. Fertiliser containing blood and bone 2 parts, superphosphate 1 part, and sulphate of potash 1/20 part (all by weight) should be applied at the rate of 4oz. per square yard. In cultivation be careful not to cover soil over the hearts of the plants and not to cover the bulbs. The bulb-like stems should be ready for use about 4 months after the seed was sown.

Varieties: A very popular variety is White Vienna, an early dwarf excellent for home gardens. The bulbs are globular and very light green and the flesh is clear white, tender, and crisp. Purple Vienna takes about a week longer to mature than the white variety; the bulb and leaves are purplish and the flesh greenish white. Lettuce Lettuce, possibly the most popular and widely grown green vegetable, is used mainly for salads. Although a succession may be provided the whole year by sowing' every 4 weeks, it is rather difficult to produce at this period of the year. The most common cause of lettuce failing to heart during hot weather is lack of moisture at some stage of growth causing a check

and consequent promotion of seedstem development. Unless plants are grown rapidly they tend to be tough and bitter; this is particularly so in summer and autumn. A rich, friable soil is .the most suitable. This should be well dug and enriched with compost or well-rotted stable or farmyard manure. If the soil condition is poor, the fertility should be increased by an application of equal parts of dried blood manure and superphosphate at the rate of Boz. per square yard. Lettuce may be sown direct in the rows in the garden from October (later in the south) to March. At other times it is preferable to raise the seedlings in warm, sheltered beds and transplant them. The soil should be worked to a fine tilth before sowing the seed, and if the soil is dry, it should be watered thoroughly. When it has drained sufficiently to work, drills may be prepared and the seed sown thinly {-in. deep in rows 12in. apart.. The plants should be thinned to 6 to 9in. apart in the rows as soon as possible. Lettuce should not be watered overhead in bright sunshine during hot weather as this may cause scorching of the tender leaves. This scorching may be followed by secondary decay or fungous rots. Irrigation is preferable in hot weather. Watering may be necessary every 6 to 7 days on sandy soils and every 10 days on heavy soils during hot weather. Watering should cease as the plants near maturity to prevent the heads from splitting. Each watering should be sufficiently heavy to soak the soil several inches deep; light waterings are likely to do more harm than good. Recommended varieties for sowing in very warm conditions are Great Lakes and Imperial 847; and for average conditions Neapolitan (Webbs Wonderful) and Champion Cabbage.

Potatoes In northern districts not subject to early frosts a small planting may be made of early maturing potatoes such as Arran Banner, Supreme, or Epicure. Planting at this time of the year may not always be successful, as success depends upon subsequent rains and warm weather, but if the ground is available, a trial is worthwhile. Peas Peas, one of the most popular vegetables, can still be sown in most districts, provided an early maturing variety is chosen. Though they prefer cool conditions, peas will not grow in cold weather. They do best in fertile, moist, deeply cultivated soils and usually do well after a crop that was well manured. Where it is intended to grow peas on soils. low in fertility a mixture of equal parts by weight of blood and bone and superphosphate and 1/20 part of sulphate of potash applied at 4oz. per square yard and thoroughly worked into the soil will be beneficial. Nitrogenous manures should be used sparingly for this crop as they promote excessive leaf and stem growth and make the plant more susceptible to attack by disease. Peas do not do well on acid soils and this condition should be rectified by applying a dressing of carbonate of lime at 4oz. per square yard. Drills spaced 2ft. 6in. apart may be drawn 3in. deep with a hoe and the peas scattered the width of the drill; allow from 1 to 2in. between the seeds. As the plants grow the soil may be drawn up to them to provide support. Suitable varieties for sowing now are: Earlycrop, W. F. Massey, Little Marvel, and Utility. Tampala Tampala is a vegetable that does well if sown now. It is frost tender and will flourish in hot, dry weather when it is rather difficult to produce spinach, and it does not bolt to seed so readily. The plants take about 6to 8 weeks to reach a usable size and are ready for use as greens when 6in. high, at which stage the entire plant may

be pulled and cooked, leaves and stalks together, like spinach, which it resembles in flavour, or it may be left to grow 3ft. or so tall, and repeated pickings can be made. Greens gathered from tall plants are free from the soil splashes so common on spinach. Tampala requires a rich, wellworked soil which has previously received a dressing of lime. For most soils a good general mixture is equal parts of blood and bone and superphosphate plus sulphate of potash equal to 20 per cent, of the weight of the first two manures. This should be broadcast and worked into the soil several days before sowing at the rate of 4oz. per square yard. Sow the seed thinly Jin. deep in rows 18in. apart and later thin the plants from 4 to 12in. apart in the rows. The wider spacings are necessary when the plants are to be left to grow to their full size. Culture of celery, celeriac, leeks, parsnips, broccoli, cauliflower, kale, savoy cabbage, carrots, brussels sprouts, and beans was dealt with in last month’s “Journal.”

Control of Pests and Diseases Most home gardeners have experienced the disappointment of seeing their vegetable crops attacked and spoilt by insects and diseases. After spending time and effort in producing good plants the gardener should be prepared to deal effectively with attacks by pests and diseases. Many gardeners have gained from experience a knowledge of successful cultural practices and produce excellent crops, but fail to protect them adequately from attack by insects and diseases because of a lack of knowledge of diseases and control measures. In these and succeeding home garden notes it is intended to deal briefly with a number of the more common diseases and pests of the home garden and to describe control measures. Insect Pests For general purposes the insects which attack vegetable crops may be classified into four groups: Sucking insects, leaf-feeding insects, boring insects, and underground insects. Sucking insects: In the group classified as sucking insects are those which have the mouth parts modified to enable them to suck up the sap of the plant. The plant tissues may be punctured and the sap withdrawn, or the surface of the tissue may be rasped by the insect and the exuded sap sucked up. Examples of insects which puncture the plant tissues are black and green aphides and the green vegetable bug. Thrips and red mite are examples of insects which rasp plant tissue. As the insects in this group do not eat the surface tissue of the plant, they cannot be controlled by poisonous sprays, and materials are used which cause paralysis or suffocation and death by contact. Nicotine sulphate is the most generally used contact spray. Thrips may be controlled by nicotine sulphate, but are more satisfactorily controlled by D.D.T.

Leaf-feeding insects: In the group classified as leaf-feeding insects are caterpillars, beetles, grubs, crickets, etc. These insects feed by biting off pieces of plant tissue, which are masticated and swallowed by the insect. They are readily controlled by a stomach poison such as lead arsenate which is applied to the plant surface and is ingested by the insects when feeding. D.D.T., which is not a stomach poison but causes paralysis and death by contact, has also proved successful in controlling the insects in this group. Boring insects tunnel into the roots, stems, branches, and tubers of plants. Common examples are the potato tuber moth and the tomato stem borer. Control is best effected by the use of D.D.T. Underground insects include cut worms, wireworms, and eelworms, which attack the plant roots or underground stems of plants. Control measures include soil sterilisation and the use of poison baits and D.D.T. Diseases Most plant diseases are caused by fungi, bacteria, .or viruses. It is not intended here to deal with troubles caused by faulty nutrition and growing conditions. Fungous diseases are the most common diseases affecting vegetables and under favourable conditions they reproduce rapidly by means of minute

spores,. which may be spread by wind or water to other plants. A fungous disease common on potatoes and tomatoes in most home gardens, especially in northern districts where warm, moist conditions prevail, is late blight (Phytophthora infestans). The rapidity with which .this disease may spread under favourable conditions is well known to most home gardeners. As warmth and moisture favour the increase of fungous spores, fungous diseases are more prevalent in warm climates subjected to frequent rains and high humidity; late blight, for instance, is a very troublesome disease in the Auckland district, but is little known in Canterbury. Fungous diseases may be carried over from one year to the next in the form of thickwalled resting spores in decayed parts of plants, on seeds, or in the soil. Control of fungous disease is effected by the use of fungicide sprays such as copper compounds and sulphurs. Garden sanitation plays an important part in the control of fungous diseases.

Bacterial diseases of vegetables are less common, but several such as halo blight of beans and bacterial canker of tomatoes are fairly well known to home gardeners. The bacteria causing these diseases increase with great rapidity under favourable conditions of warmth and moisture. Control measures for bacterial diseases include spraying with copper compounds, the use of clean seed, and the destruction of affected plants. Garden sanitation is again important.

Virus diseases are common on vegetables such 'as tomatoes, potatoes, lettuces, peas, and cucumbers and other cucurbits. Virus diseases do not multiply and spread in the manner of fungi or bacterial diseases, nor can they be seen under the microscope. They may be described as infective principles in the sap of the plant, which, when transferred from an affected plant to a healthy plant, cause the healthy plant to show similar symptoms to the affected one. Aphides and thrips are common vectors of virus diseases, and some virus diseases are spread by man when handling affected and clean plants. Virus diseases cannot be controlled directly by spraying, although the spread of those which are carried by aphides and thrips may be reduced if sprays are used to control the insect vectors. Principal measures of control include the early detection of the disease and the rogueing and destruction of affected plants, and the use of clean seed and resistant varieties. Hands and garden tools should be washed after handling affected plants. Most virus diseases have wide host ranges and many common weeds are hosts. All weed hosts around the garden should be destroyed. Control Measures Methods of combating - insects and diseases include the use of sprays, dusts, baits, soil fumigants, garden sanitation, and seed treatments. Sprays: These may be divided into two main groups, insecticides and fungicides, and the insecticides may be further divided into stomach poisons and contact sprays. Lead arsenate is the commonest stomach poison employed and is used for the control of leaf-feeding insects. The general rate of application is 2oz. to 5 gallons of water.

Contact sprays include nicotine sulphate and D.D.T. Nicotine sulphate is used to control diamond-backed moth on brassicas and green and black aphides and cabbage aphis. The recommended strength is 1 fl. oz. to 5 gallons of water. If nicotine sulphate is used alone, it requires the addition of an activator such as soft soap, 2oz. to 5 gallons, to render it more effective. The soft soap should be dissolved in a quart of hot water and the requisite amount of nicotine sulphate added, and the mixture left to stand 15 minutes before adding the balance of water required. . D.D.T. may be used to control thrips. and most of the leaf-feeding insects. For spraying purposes a wettable powder, which is available in two strengths, 50 per cent, and 25 per cent. D.D.T., is used. - The recommended dosage is 4/soz. of the 50 per cent. powder to 5 gallons of water; if the 25 per cent, powder is used, double the quantity recommended for the 50 per cent, powder should be used. Care should be taken not to use D.D.T. on the edible portions of plants within 2 to 3 weeks of harvesting unless the produce is washed before use. Copper compounds such as Bordeaux and copper oxychloride and sulphur

such as lime sulphur and colloidal sulphur are the general fungicides in use for control of fungous diseases, The sulphur sprays are used only for the control of powdery mildews such as powdery mildew of cucumbers, peas, pumpkins, etc. t reare 4 gallons of Bordeaux suspend 4oz. of bluestone in muslin in i gallon o water in a glass, wooden, or earthernware vessel (metals should no be used); mix s|oz. of hydrated me (spraying lime) with a little water; strain the lime through cheesecioth into d kerosene tin and wash the cheesecloth through with water. With th e tin about three-quarters full, pour | n the bluestone solution, stirring all the time. The mixture is now ready to use and should be of a good blue colour. ' . Q To th ® clean blade of a penknife should be dipped into it for about a minute. If the blade becomes tarnished, more hydrated Ime be c°nditi<m indicates that the mixture has not neutralised sufficiently to prevent burning of the foliage. As freshly made Bordeaux mixture soon deteriorates, it should be used

the day it is made. It is best to pour it into the sprayer through a fine gauze strainer or muslin to prevent any grit nozzle er impurities from clo^ in g the ’ r ~ , „ , Though none of the dry Bordeaux powders is as effective as home-made Bordeaux they are simple to prepare and if used in sufficient quantity give <I UI H J? r e sutts. The best are. certified by the Plant Diseases Division of the Department of Scientific and Industrial Research and on the label carry a warrant of certification showing the correct dilution to use, usually about 3oz. to 4 gallons of water. „ - *• a* 4.- -4. • Combination sprays: At times it is advisable to combine certain sprays to obtain control of both insects and a fungous disease with the one applicalon - Bordeaux mixture and copper oxychloride can be combined +4- Wh lead arsenate and D.D.T. wettable n^ ir n e u U l p h l Ri ad senate and D.D.T. wettable powder, can be combined, but when combining lead arsenate with lime sulphur, hydrated lime (twice the weight of the lead arsenate) should be added to reduce risk of burning the plant foliage. caM>age' S peas n^nd' onion I s an it < very visable to useVwettiS agent* The?e visablG to use a agent. There tions, which should ,be used according to the manufacturer s recommendation. Dusts: Sulphur in a finely ground form is used for the control of powdery mildew and should be co?erlge W jSt a visible §I tJ the eye. . co Z e l a ° e J usl; vlslDle to the eye. . D.D.T. dusting powder is sold in several strengths and may be dusted on the foliage of the plants as directed for the control of insect pests such as tomato and sweet corn worm and white butterfly and will control the

tuber moth of potatoes, slaters, wireworms, earwigs, cutworms, and many other insects. Derris dust is blown from a dust gun or sprinkled from a container covered at the mouth with a piece of muslin on to cabbage, cauliflower, etc., for the control of white butterfly and diamond-backed moth. It kills the insects by contact and also acts as a stomach poison. It has the great advantage that in the quantities used to control insects it is harmless to humans „.. , „ ~ , . . , Baits are used for the control of slugs and snails. There are proprietary preparations containing metaldehyde w hich are usually satisfactory, but if desired, baits can be made from tablets containing metaldehyde and bran, one tablet being powdered up fine and mixed with a large cup of bran. Baits are scattered over the soil or placed tn small heaps. They lose their effectiveness after they have been exposed f o ran H „ ~ ' , , . , x s °4 fumigants are used mainly for sterilising boxing soils for the growing of , seedlings. They include formalin which is a 40 per cent, solution of sterilisation 1 art of lormafinTsadded spread out in an open shed and the formalin solution is bushelot ( soU.*The Enon per b+shel of soil The heap is then covered over with sacks f or 43 hours to retain the volatile gas, after which the soil is turned to dry. It should not be used until all smell of formaldehyde has disappeared. that no diseased refuse or crop residues that no diseased refuse or crop residues should be allowed to lie about the garden. All healthy foliage including lawn and tender hedge clippings should be composted, but remains of diseased crops should be destroyed by burning, especially diseased tomato

vines, potato haulms, and pea and bean foliage which may be affected with virus and other diseases. Seed treatments: One of the objects of seed treatment is to protect seeds from fungi and other organisms commonly present on soil which cause the seeds or young seedlings to rot before they emerge above ground and to eliminate the possibility of seedcarried diseases. Dry seed dusts may be purchased and these are simply shaken up with the seed. Most seeds purchased from seed merchants have been treated. Satisfactory pest and disease control can be secured only by regular applications of a recommended control spray and by 100 per cent, coverage, which can be maintained only by the use of good spraying equipment.

“Tomato Diseases and Pests” “'TOMATO Diseases and Pests,” a -S- booklet by officers of the Plant Diseases Division and published by the Department of Scientific and Industrial Research, will claim the interest not only of commercial tomato growers but also of every grower of tomato plants, whether indoor or outdoor, and assist them in the incessant struggle against the numerous diseases and pests to which tomatoes are susceptible. As many of the pests described attack other vegetables and plants besides tomatoes, most gardeners will find the manual invaluable. In this comprehensive 112-page publication the writers have dealt briefly but thoroughly with all the principal fungous diseases, .including moulds and wilts, and the most common insect pests such as caterpillars, aphides, eelworms, and slugs which affect tomatoes and other plants of this kind. General descriptions and life history are given, the text being amply and well illustrated; also, for practical use, the most effective methods of control and prevention are set out, derived from the results of much research and experimental work and trials under field and laboratory conditions exhaustively carried out by skilled and experienced officers. The latest and full information on hygienic cultural practices is given, including extraction of tomato seeds, handling of plants, spraying implements required, and fungicides and insecticides, their component parts, and how to mix and apply them. Soil disinfection by the most modern methods is described and useful tables of diseases and their control for glasshouse and outdoor crops are given in this informative booklet, which contains much of practical value and can be recommended to all gardeners and horticultural workers. It is available from offices of the Department of Scientific and Industrial Research at Auckland, Christchurch, and Dunedin, and the Head Office, Wellington. —W.T.G. “Tomato Diseases and Pests,” Department of Scientific and Industrial Research, Wellington. 2s. 6d.