Midsummer Neglect can Rob the flower Gardener of his Rewards

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 79, Issue 6, 15 December 1949, Page 597

Midsummer Neglect can Rob the flower Gardener of his Rewards

By

Director of Reserves to the Christchurch City Council.

A SURVEY of activities in A SURVEY of activities in the average New Zealand garden would show that the advent of spring brought a general and instinctive desire to plant, to sow, and to put the garden in order. Usually this activity is maintained fairly constantly throughout the succeeding months up to the summer holiday season, but when midsummer arrives the school vacations and annual leave make a break in the well-ordered and regular routine work of the garden, with the result that it is likely to be neglected, for the time being at least. Lawns go unmown, weeds grow apace, choice plants languish for the want of timely attention or support, beds and borders become untidy, and there is a general air of neglect.

STRANGE as it may seem, this temporary state of affairs has a disheartening effect on all but the genuinely interested gardeners. Apparently, once the interest is allowed to flag, reviving it again is difficult. Perhaps the-enticements of the. seaside, the country, and outdoor games outweigh the more passive pleasures of horticulture. While summer attractions are made the most of, an active interest in the garden should be maintained, for only by sustained activity will lasting enjoyment be obtained from it. The more effort is lavished on it, the more it will flourish and induce that sense of satisfaction and pride in achievement sweet solace of —which is the recompense of those who make their gardening “a labour of love.” The attitude that autumn is approaching and that matters will be put to rights when more time is available can lead to the garden becoming master of the gardener. Though by January most planting will have been completed, beds and borders will be well filled with flowering plants, there will be little sowing of seed to be done, and shrubs will require little attention, nevertheless much routine work and general maintenance is required. Roses The first crop of rose blooms will be over, and as a - preventive against attacks of mildew, rust, and black spot the bushes should be sprayed with an approved fungicide at least twice before the second crop of flower buds begins to show colour; full instructions were given in the October “Journal.” The summer pruning of rose bushes should be attended to immediately the

first crop of bloom is over. Summer pruning consists of removing the weaker growths that have already flowered and are not sufficiently strong to warrant their being retained for future growth, and of shortening back the stronger growths -that have bloomed. These growths should not be pruned severely, but merely cut back to two or three growth buds below the spent flower stem. Growths out of proportion with the rest may be cut back a little harder to. improve the general habit and appearance of the bushes. The tying in of strong young growths of climbing and rambler loses required to replace old and worn-out stems should be continued. The old stems should be removed later when the annual pruning is attended to. Lilies Both Lilium candidum, better known as the Christmas or madonna lily, and Lilvdm testaceum, the Nankeen lily, will have finished flowering by the middle of January, and the old flower stems should be cut off at ground level and burnt. The dreaded botrytis disease which frequently affects lilies, particularly the two species mentioned, may be present in a resting form in spent leaves and stems, and if infected material is added to the compost heap, the chances are that the disease will be spread to other parts of the garden with the compost. Unlike most lilies, neither Lilium candidum nor L. testaceum has a distinct dormant period, for no sooner is their flowering period over than fresh growth from the bulbs is developed in the form of radical leaves at ground level. Therefore, if dividing the

bulbs or shifting them to fresh sites is necessary, this work should be done toward the end of January. Both kinds succeed best in a deep, reasonably rich, well-drained soil which is always in good mechanical conditionthat is, a soil which does not cohere into a sticky mass when wet or into hard lumps when dry. That is one of the reasons why many lilies succeed better when planted adjacent to certain shrubs, such as azaleas and rhododendrons. Not only do these shrubs prefer' similar soil conditions, but the innumerable fibrous roots from them assist materially in keeping the soil friable for the lilies. Both the species mentioned are very susceptible to the effects of cold currents of air, so it is essential that they be planted in positions where they are protected from cold draughts and biting winds. Lawns ■ By January the growth of grass willhave steadied considerably and, if need be, the grass catcher on the lawn mower can be dispensed with. However, regular mowing should be continued. Too frequently this work tends to be curtailed as the grass becomes less vigorous in its growth, with the result that the bents—the flower stalks of the grassare enabled to develop to such a length that the mower cannot remove them. The smooth, inviting aspect of a lawn can be spoilt by grass stalks sticking up indiscriminately throughout its surface. In many districts on the lighter soils, and where summer brings dry conditions, lawns quickly show signs of browning off, and if adequate water is not applied, in time they suffer to

such an extent that the health and vigour of the turf are seriously impaired. Once this happens, weeds such as the dandelion, catsear, and ribgrass, which are more tenacious than grass and by virtue of their deeper rooting systems more able to withstand the effects, of droughts, obtain a foothold to the even greater detriment of the grass. In such circumstances lawns should be watered as regularly and systematically as possible. One good soaking is worth a dozen sprinklings. Though it may be pleasant of a summer evening to stand with the garden hose and spray water right and left over the garden, such performances do little permanent good and may even prove harmful. The moistening of the surface causes surface rooting and, as such moisture is readily dissipated by wind and sun, the plants suffer more readily than they would if the feeding roots were at a lower level, where moisture is available more constantly. Therefore, when watering is necessary one area at a time should be treated until the soil is . reasonably well saturated.

It is most difficult for water to penetrate a surface which has been allowed to become hard and baked. Too frequently it will gravitate to the lower places and form sheets of shallow water on the lawn or flow off on to pathways and borders.. In such circumstances the lawn should be pierced with a garden fork to allow a greater penetration of both air and moisture. Soil air as well as soil moisture is necessary for the wellbeing of grass and of most plants. For maintaining large areas of lawn in good order special turf aeration devices are available. The prongs of a garden fork driven 3 or 4in. into the surface serve the same purpose. The work is much more laborious' and takes much longer than when done with a machine, but if properly carried •out, it plays an important part in preserving a lawn in good condition and saving it from permanent injury. To carry out the work systematically it is a good plan to divide the lawn into ,3ft. strips. Doing a strip at a time, piercing the soil at intervals of 3 or 4in., ensures that the whole surface receives adequate treatment.

Herbaceous Borders Perhaps no garden plants show the ill effects of hot and dry weather more quickly than many of the herbaceous perennials, and the remarks about watering lawns apply with equal force to flower borders and beds. However, .overhead watering does damage flowers in that the weight of the moisture on stems, foliage, and flowers frequently causes them to flop over, and if they are not securely supported, it is diffi■cult to remedy the fault. Where possible, beds and borders are better watered by small irrigating ■channels than by overhead sprinkling. Shallow channels may be made with a draw hoe, and water flowing along the channels readily percolates through the soil for a considerable distance. Given a good supply of water, a considerable area can be well soaked in a comparatively short time by regulating the flow in the channels. After heavy rain or frequent overhead waterings the. surface soil tends to compact and form a crust. The soil should be kept stirred with a hoe or

fork to keep it loose and friable, Such work is sometimes referred to as dry. mulching because keeping the surface in a flocculent state conserves the moisture in the soil. p QrQ -„;,| * j. rerennsai /\srers Many of the • perennial _ asters (Michaelmas daisies) are subject to attacks of mildew at this season of the year, and unless it is controlled at once mildew, will spread at an alarming rate and in some cases ruin an otherI nre?eXe ng the ISP bShe should bl sprayed at least twite or thrice with lime sulphur . . p > DaUia"; ■ udniids Dahlias are now making strong growth and will require staking, watering, and disbudding. Miniature ' flowered varieties, such as Bishop of Llandaff, Little Diamond, Baldre, Dreamthorpe, and others used for bedding and general display need not be disbudded, but the large flowered kinds are better so treated. The usual practice is to select the largest and

best-developed flower bud and to remove those immediately surrounding and below it. . . ; Dahlias, like most plants, are subject di seases and pests.' Of the diseases, probably the worst is the virus disease, which causes a yellowish mottling of the leaves, giving the plant a debilitated appearance. Unfortunately, there is no ,cure for it and.the only wa o preventing its spread is to dig U p affected plants and destroy them, q£ the j nsec t pests, thrips are the worst By their persistent attacks these minute black insects cause malformation of the growth and discolouring of the blooms. They may be kept in check by frequent spraying of nicotine sulphate to which has been added a solution of soft soap. Some of the D.D.T. preparations now on the matket have given good results. However, one of the best preventives is to keep the plants growing vigorously. Should they suffer from lack of moisture, the general health of the plant is impaired, and the thrips. seem to take advantage of this weakened condition.

Rock Gardens Though rock gardens have lost the colourful glory of the spring- and early summer-flowering plants, they must not be neglected. In addition to watering, care must be taken that the more robustly growing subjects do not encroach beyond their proper confines and smother more treasured plants of less vigorous habit. Unless required for seed, all spent flowers should be removed, for some kinds if left to shed their seed have the unfortunate habit of reproducing themselves in unexpected places where they are. not wanted. For example, Geranium sanguineum may be quite an acquisition in its proper place, but when seedlings of it appear in the midst of a colony of encrusted saxifragas it becomes a pest. Such plants as Erinus alpinus, Linaria alpina, and Papaver alpinum, which are not “permanents,” should be allowed to shed their seed so that fresh young plants may appear to take the place of their parents, which have the habit of disappearing. Many of the charming miniature alpines are seen to better advantage in little crevices where they have grown from self-sown seed than where, perhaps, they have been planted with every care.

Kniphofias The kniphofias (tritomas), better known as torch lilies or red-hot pokers, as a class will flower from early summer until mid-autumn. Most of the popular varieties now on the market are usually in full bloom during January and February. Though kniphofias frequently are planted near the margins of pools so that the vividly coloured flowers may be reflected in the water, they will succeed even in comparatively poor soil and dry situations. However, they respond to good cultivation, and the clumps should be lifted every 3 or 4 years, divided up, and replanted. Proteas Natives of South Africa, the proteas are grey-leaved evergreen shrubs particularly suitable for well-drained, sunny, and open situations. They will succeed in most soils, and they have the added advantage of withstanding the effects of dry weather better than most shrubs. The bushes in general habit of growth are not elegant, but the flowers are most interesting, being conspicuous, in some cases beautiful, and when suitably arranged useful for indoor decorations. The bushes can be induced to grow more shapely by pruning them back immediately the flowers are over. Care should be taken not to prune back too hard beyond the healthy foliage.

Some of the best species for the garden are Protea susannae, P. cynaraides, P. compacta, and P. longiflora. Carnations and Pinks Despite the fact that the carnation has been cultivated for hundreds of years, it is still one of the most popular of garden and florists’ flowers. Excluding the marguerite carnation, which is raised annually from seed, three main types are worth attention—the border carnations, in which are included the picotees and which flower

once each year; the perpetual flowering carnation, which, under proper treatment, will flower for 8 or 9 months out of the year; and the perpetual border carnation, which apparently is the result of a cross between the first and second types. The larger flowers, the greater length of stem, and the longer flowering period of the perpetual carnations are qualities that have increased their popularity at the expense of the true border and picotee kinds. A few decades ago border carnations held pride of place both in gardens and at flower shows. Many old growers and lovers of the flower will recall with pleasure and longing the fine markings of the bizarre and fancy, varieties. The border carnation has not disappeared from gardens, and is never likely to, and there are signs that it is becoming popular again. Soil Requirements Carnations as a class are essentially sun lovers and must be given an open situation where they will receive the maximum of light and not be overshadowed by trees or shrubs. They abhor any soil that tends to be sour, but succeed in a good, loamy soil that is well drained. As they prefer an alkaline to an acid medium, lime in some form should be added to and thoroughly mixed with the soil, and for this purpose old lime rubble or mortar that has been broken up finely, and passed through a Jin.-mesh riddle to remove the larger lumps is considered excellent. Not only does the rubble supply lime, but the rough particles of it assist considerably in improving the general texture of the soil. Finely ground oyster grit is a good substitute and may be used liberally. If neither of these materials is available, agricultural lime will suffice. However, carnations do better in a firm rather than a loose, open soil, and though they dislike wet, sticky soils and will survive dry conditions better than the general run of garden plants, they cannot be starved with impunity. For best results they must receive regular watering and feeding during the growing season, but overhead watering and wetting of the foliage should be avoided. The original wild types of carnations (Dianthus) , the progenitors of the

present-day hybrids, grew mostly on limestone cliffs, in open, wind-swept pastures, among rocky crags, and on old castle walls—positions where drainage was perfect and excessive moisture did not collect and remain. For flowers of good size and substance, carnations should be disbudded, all the flower buds clustered around the upper or terminal one being removed. If need be, the lower

or lateral ones can be left, but when the flowers are required for cutting even these should be removed. Propagation by Layers As border carnations seldom give good results after the second year fresh stocks from the original plants should be propagated immediately the flowers are over. Propagation is easily effected by the natural method of layering, carried out as follows: — Toward the end of January remove the old flower stalks. Clean round the base of the plant by removing all spent foliage and unwanted growth and the surface soil immediately underneath. Replace this soil with a layer of good compost consisting of loam, sharp river sand, and leaf mould, all of which have been passed through a Jin.-mesh sieve. This compost forms the rooting medium in which the layers are placed. Select sturdy growths, avoiding weak ones and those inclined to rankness; take each in turn, and with a sharp knife remove the lower foliage close to the stem. At a convenient point between the older and younger parts of the growth where the stem is firm but not hard make an upward cut through a joint on the lower side. Press the layer gently into the compost below in such a manner that the “tongue” penetrates downward into the soil and away from the stem, and hold the layer firmly in position with a peg

made of 12-gauge wire. The operation is not difficult and may be carried out successfully even by the beginner. When all the layers of each plant have been put down, extra compost is added to cover the layers more adequately, made reasonably firm, and the whole given a good watering. During dry weather the layering bed should be kept moist to induce quick rooting, which should take place within a few weeks. About the beginning of March the young layers should be severed from the parent plant by cutting through the stems between the layer and the old plant. The young plants thus severed from their parent are left undisturbed for a few weeks until they are more firmly rooted, when they can be lifted carefully and transplanted to the prepared positions in which they are to grow and flower during the following season. Propagation by Cuttings ' Border carnations may also be propagated successfully from cuttings, which should be taken from good, healthy growths, but not abnormal or weak ones. The lower leaves should be removed close to the stem and the firm part of the stem cut squarely across just below a node or joint. The cuttings should be removed when perfectly fresh and must not be allowed to wilt to the slightest degree, but should be wrapped in damp scrim or placed in an airtight container until they are ready to be inserted. Sometimes cuttings sent from a distance may arrive somewhat wilted, in which case they should be steeped in water for 12 hours to enable them to revive. When only a limited number of plants is required an effective and convenient method is to strike or root the cuttings in a sin. pot. The pot, which should be thoroughly cleansed,

is “crocked” in the usual way—that is, about 2in. of drainage is placed in the bottom and covered with some ma- , terial such as fibrous riddlings from compost, spent hops, or sphagnum moss to prevent the finer compost above from filtering down into and blocking the drainage. . The compost consists of s °il an d half clean river sand; some growers advocate all sand. The compost is made firm and even and moistened, after which the cuttings

are dibbled in from 2 to 3in. apart. The pot is then given a good overhead watering and plunged to the rim in sawdust, coke breeze, or similar material in a close frame or a cool part of the glasshouse until the cuttings have rooted. During this period an endeavour should be made to maintain an even temperature, to keep the cuttings shaded from direct sunlight, to prevent draughts, and not to allow moisture to collect on the foliage, though during hot, dry weather spraying them lightly during the heat of the day may be necessary to prevent their wilting. As soon as the cuttings have rooted they should be transferred to boxes containing richer compost or potted up singly into 4in. pots and grown on until they are ready to be planted in open ground.

Though perpetual flowering carnations may be layered as recommended for border carnations, some growers prefer to propagate them entirely from cuttings, it being considered that plants produced from cuttings taken from about midway up the stems give better results than those layered from the basal growths.

Pinks and Allwoodi carnations, because of their close, dense habit of growth, are propagated more easily from cuttings, which take root comparatively easily. Many of them are excellent, for massing or as an edging for the flower borders. If a large number is required, the plants may be raised easily by dibbling in the cuttings in prepared boxes of compost covered with clean sand. As each hole is made with the dibble a small quantity of the sand falls to the bottom, thus forming a base on which the cutting rests when inserted. Plants raised in this manner may be transferred directly to open ground when well rooted.

Hardy and Half-hardy Perennials Suitable for Bays near f the Front of the Flower Border

I,* JMCTW ‘ - - -■ ! .-' t<i * ,‘''i*''' i ' Approximate | Name Common name height Colour ‘' c , Alyssum saxatile Pepperwort Ift. Yellow Arabis alpina Wall or rock 6in. White cress Arabis alpina rosea 6in. Pink Aubrietia deltoidea and 3 to 4in. Purple, lavender, named varieties pink shades Chrysanthemum frutescens Paris daisy 3ft. White, yellow, pink Caillardia grandiflora and l| to 2ft. Mainly orange named varieties yellow and reds Gazania species 6;n. to I ft. Various Geraniums, varieties I to 3 ft. Various Heuchera sanguinea I to l ift. Red Kalanchoe (Crassula) Ift. Scarlet coccinea I Lithospermum prostratum 4in. • Blue | Primula variabilis Polyanthus ~ I ft. Various; fine and I showy I Primula vulgaris Primrose 4 to 6in. Various | Saxifraga umbrosa London pride 1 ft. Pink I Verbena venosa 2ft. Claret purple g Viola tricolor and varieties Pansy 6in. Various r Viola cornuta and hybrids Violas 6in. Various I! —H. P. THOMAS, Vegetable Instructor, B Department of Agriculture, Wanganui. || "Upper photograph by Douglas Elliott; lower left and right by Photo News Ltd. E