THE HOME GARDEN IN DECEMBER

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 79, Issue 5, 15 November 1949, Page 439

THE HOME GARDEN IN DECEMBER

By

S. O. GILLARD,

Vegetable Instructor,

Department of Agriculture, Auckland.

DECEMBER is a very busy month for the home gardener, as there is much important work to be done. This includes thinning, weeding, hoeing, spraying, and planting out of late-autumn and winter greens such as cabbage, cauliflower, broccoli, and leeks and making successional sowings of dwarf and runner beans, beetroot, and, in some districts, swedes, parsnips, peas, carrots, and sweet corn.

IN the home garden where seasonal operations have been well planned there should be no difficulty in finding space for successional crops, but by the end of the month the garden should be filled to capacity with a wide range of newly-planted, growing, and maturing vegetable crops.

Where space is limited interplanting may be done. Quick-maturing vegetables such as lettuce, radish, and spinach are well suited for planting between rows of vegetables which take longer to mature. Cabbages, cauliflowers, and root crops may be planted between rows of maturing potatoes, peas, and beans, and pumpkins, cucumbers, and melons may be interplanted with sweet corn. Vegetable plants such as tomatoes, pepper, and egg plants which are subject to wind damage, especially when young, can be protected in exposed positions by planting them between maturing crops of peas or cabbage.

As earlier-sown crops mature and are harvested no time should be lost in digging the ground and preparing it for replanting, always remembering that crop rotation gives best results. Leaf crops such as cabbage, lettuce, silver beet, etc., should follow potatoes, parsnips, or other similar root crops, and root crops should follow leaf crops. Because both are affected by similar diseases, tomatoes and potatoes should not follow each other.

Successional sowings of salad crops such as lettuce, spring onions, and radish can be made, and turnips, swedes, and peas may be sown if a supply of moisture can be assured. In the North Island parsnips and sweet corn can still be sown, and tomatoes may be planted for late crops in the warmer districts which are not subject to early frosts.

Trenches and beds for celery should be prepared and plants set out. The plants should be kept sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or with certified copper oxychloride mixture to protect them from leaf spot, caused by the fungus Septaria apii, which is one of the most . serious diseases affecting celery.

For summer sowing lettuce is best sown in a permanent bed and thinned, as transplanting is rather difficult in hot weather. From December until April all vegetables should be sown or planted on the flat, and subjects like cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and leeks can have the earth drawn up to them as they grow. This method of planting is important during the drier and warmer months; it also provides a better surface for artificial watering and liquid manuring. .

Weeding and hoeing are still very necessary even among well-established crops. Weeds not only rob plants of food and moisture, but they are often the host plants of disease and insect pests. Hoeing assists aeration and conservation of soil moisture.

Runner beans should be staked and tall varieties of tomatoes will require staking and pruning; in localities where blight is troublesome they should be sprayed with Bordeaux mixture or with a copper oxychloride spray to which has been added arsenate of lead or commercial D.D.T. wettable powder for the control of tomato worm.

Harvesting of main-crop rhubarb should now be discontinued and the plants allowed to develop leaf growth to enable the crown to build up supplies of reserve food for the production of next season’s crop. Where heavy pulling of the stalks has been practised leaf growth will be stimulated by a dressing of blood and bone applied at the rate of Jib. per square yard between the plants and worked lightly in.

Liquid manure can be applied to most crops to advantage and where necessary watering or irrigation should be attended to. The supply of water is particularly important to the growth and setting of beans, to the growth of radish, lettuce, and celery, and, to a slightly less extent, to other growing vegetable crops.. Crops of vegetables such as potatoes and onions that are nearing maturity should not be watered, as this is liable to start them into a second growth and to impair seriously their keeping qualities later.

Kumara plants will now be developing runners and these should be lifted occasionally to keep them from rooting at the nodes. If allowed to attach themselves to the soil, they make heavy vine growth at the expense of tubers. The soil should be kept moulded up to maintain the ridges in which the tubers form, and all weeds should be carefully removed.. ■

The onion crop will now have reached the stage when the bulbs are forming. In any further cultivation work necessary to suppress weed growth the soil should not be drawn up to cover the bulb, which develops best on top of the ground. If planting has been a little too deep, it is an advantage to press the soil away from the onion and expose the bulb as is shown in the illustration on this page. In doing this care must be taken not to damage the roots of the plant.

A<;nAMrtiK “ y In districts where harvesting has been in progress for a period of 8 . weeks (usually round about the end of November for northern and toward the end of December for southern districts) cutting of the spears should be discontinued. The beds should be weeded and lightly cultivated and ■ should receive a dressing of blood and bone manure at the rate of Jib. per . square yard plus Joz. of sulphate of potash per square yard; if available a good dressing of wood ashes can be substituted for the potash. Compost spread over the surface soil is excellent and will also assist the growth of - a strong, healthy fern, growth of a strong, healthy tern which is so necessary to enable the roots to develop and store up food for next season’s growth. Strong fern growth also assists in the suppression of weeds, and once it becomes established the beds should require little attention during summer.

Broad Beans Broad beans sown in May under reasonable conditions will be ready for picking in October, and later sowings will extend the harvest period to December, when they are of value in the home garden, as the varieties of vegetables ready for harvesting at that time are rather limited. As the plants begin to flower or when they are about 2ft. high pinch the top but of each stem, as this makes the pods set better. When boiled like spinach the

tops of broad beans make a delicious vegetable. To maintain the strength of the plant and to prolong the bearing period the pods should be gathered as they become ready for use. Once the plants are allowed to mature their seeds they stop flowering and die off. D war f an Climbing Beans Provided sufficient moisture is mamtained french beans may be harvested ir l northern districts from the begin“iVow^^earV" To® secure continued harvesting during this period it is necessary to make successional sowings every 3 weeks VP end of January. In the colder parts of New Zealand the season for beans is> of course, much shorter, but should be spread as long as possible by using the warmest positions for early and late sowings, Sown under ' favourable conditions dwarf beans produce their first beans in 7 to 9 weeks; annual climbing beans require 10 to 12 weeks. For late sow-

ing the situation should be warm and sheltered, particularly if. there is a likelihood of a cool autumn.

. Beans will grow in many types of soil, but prefer a good friable loam well supplied with organic matter. If the soil is not low in food material, the only manures required are a mixture of equal ,parts of superphosphate and bonedust sown along each side of the rows at the rate of 4oz. to Bft. of row when the plants are well up. Artificial fertiliser should not be sown with the bean seed, as it may cause poor germination of the seed through burning.

For dwarf varieties drills 18in. to 2ft. apart and 3 in. deep are drawn out with the hoe. The seed is sown in a double row along the wide drill, the seeds being “staggered” and not placed opposite each other; seeds should be 3in. apart. Cover the seed with soil and rake the surface level.

Climbing beans require support. This may be provided by a wirenetting fence, preferably 6 to Bft. high, the seeds being set 6 to Bin. apart in a single row each side and sin. out from the netting. Alternatively the beans can be supported by wooden stakes 6 to Bft. long placed in a double row and spaced Ift. apart each way. The stakes are drawn together in pairs at the top and attached to a cross stake; two seeds are set, one each side of the stake.

Another method is to place 4 stakes 6 to Bft. long 2ft. apart each way to form a square. The tops are drawn together wigwam fashion and tied, the operation being repeated to form a row of wigwams; 3 seeds are set to each stake.

When vines of climbers are 2ft. 6in. high the tops of runners should be pinched off. This causes the flower buds to form much lower on the vine than if it were let grow at will. This operation can be repeated when the vine has grown another 2ft. in height.

Watering may be necessary during dry spells. Dryness of the root is often a cause of disappointment with the bean crop and is the main cause of the flowers failing to set. The hoe should be kept busy suppressing weed growth during dry weather. ‘ Varieties recommended for planting during December and January are:— Dwarf: The Prince, Sydney Wonder, Black Valentine, and Surprise. Climbing: Fardenlosa and Market Wonder.

Carrots Carrots may be classified into the following types: — Long rooted: Mature roots may be lOin. long or more and taper to a distinctly long, drawn-out point. They penetrate deeply, and therefore the plants may get more' water once established than shorter-rooted kinds. This may be important in dry seasons in certain areas. Long-rooted varieties do best on a’ comparatively light, deep soil of medium quality. Recommended varieties are Intermediate and Altringham.

Medium length: Usually less than Bin. in length. The varieties of this group, Chantenay, Earlykrop, Man-

Chester Table, and the so-called “coreless carrot” Nantes, are of excellent quality.

Short, stump rooted: Useful for heavy or for shallow soils. Examples are Oxheart (Guerande), Early Scarlet Horn, and French Forcing.

Recommended varieties for December and January sowings are Chantenay and Earlykrop.

Successional sowings of carrots are Pest, as the crop can be used before it reaches full maturity. The roots are of a much higher quality when young, and if kept too long after reaching the mature stage, they become pithy and lose their flavour.

In districts where the carrot rust fly is prevalent it is very difficult to produce a crop of good-quality roots if seed is sown before December or January unless special precautions are taken. Carrots sown now will have plenty of time to grow to maturity and will result in better-quality roots for winter use than if sown in spring.

Carrots do well without further manurial applications in a soil that has been heavily manured for a previous crop; if this is not available, the only fertiliser necessary for most soils is a mixture of equal parts of superphosphate and bonedust at the rate of 2oz. per square yard. A dressing of wood ashes will also be beneficial and can be applied with the fertiliser when raking down the soil before seeding. Sow thinly Jin. deep in rows 12in. apart and thin out when the plants are 3in. high to 3in. apart. A quarter of an ounce of seed will sow 100 ft. of row.

Celery

Celery (Apium graveolens) is a native of the marshy places of Europe, being known in its wild state as “smallage.” The only apparent references to its early cultivation deal with its use as a medicine. In its wild form it has a spreading habit growth and a bitter, ■ pungent flavour and odour. Originally the cultivated celery differed very little from the wild form and most of the early varieties were more or less hollow stemmed. By careful selection and breeding this tendency has largely been eliminated and the plants having hollow stems throughout are now rare. It is one of the main crops of those eaten raw. It is also used in salads, in soups, and as a relish with cheese.

Celery is moisture loving, and an adequate supply of moisture during growth is essential.

Celery is seldom grown successfully from seed sown directly in the garden. It is best sown under glass and should be sown about 10 weeks before the plants are required for planting out in the garden. If it is desired to grow plants, seed should be sown fairly thickly—about a level teaspoonful to a standard tray (22in. x 12in. x 3in.) — and covered very thinly by a sprinkling of soil, which is firmed with a flat piece of board. The seedlings should appear in from 1 or 2 weeks and during this period the seed-box should be carefully watered.

When the seedlings are large enough to handle—usually about 3 weeks after emergence—they should be pricked out 2in. apart each way in seedling boxes filled with a good

compost mixture. Four to 6 weeks from pricking out, the plants will have made sufficient root growth to enable them to hold the attached soil when cut out of the boxes in squares. They may then be set out in the garden, and if they are carefully planted, little check to growth should occur.

With early celery a problem is to ”, prevent the plants ' getting a check which would cause them to bolt to seed; seed sowing should be so timed that the plants will be ready for planting out after danger of prolonged cold, wet weather is past. For the main and late crop the seed may be sown in an open nursery bed.

Most home gardeners will prefer to purchase plants from seedsmen rather than raise them from seed, as few gardeners, except those in the warmer and more sheltered districts, can sow and raise plants successfully without a cool frame or small glasshouse. Two methods of planting are used the bed and the trench ■ systems. Trenches are preferable where conditions are dry, as beds are usually more difficult to water. The plants can be set in double rows in trenches; for early or late planting they can be planted on the level or in slightly raised beds containing four or six rows 12in. apart., with Bin. between the plants in the rows. Trenches should be shallow except where it is intended to earth up the plants for blanching later. The soil in the trenches should be enriched with well-rotted farmyard manure or compost. For beds the ground should be deeply dug and well worked. Celery should be grown rapidly without checks and succeeds best in a very rich soil. Just before planting, a fertiliser mixture consisting of equal

parts of blood and bone and superphosphate plus 5 per cent, of sulphate of potash or muriate of potash should be broadcast over the area at the rate of lib. per square yard and worked into the surface 3in. of soil. Plants should never be permitted to become dry at the roots. As the major portion of the plant roots occupy the upper 6in. of soil, and many of the roots are within 2 to 3in. of the surface, adequate moisture must be maintained and cultivation should be shallow. Raised beds are best when drainage is poor and watering does not present difficulty.

When the crop is about 3 weeks from maturing blanching should be started. This is done by excluding the sun from the stalks of the plants, thus preventing the formation of chlorophyll (the green colouring matter) in the plant cells. A good practice in blanching is to surround each bed with high boards which should be at least lOin. wide. The method of placing the boards is to lay them flat on either edge of the path along plant rows, force the inside edge against the plants, and then raise them to a vertical position, bringing up all the outside leaves. The boards are kept in position by short stakes placed on the outside. ' , Another method is to cut sections of wrapping paper and wrap each celery plant separately, leaving only the tops of the plants exposed. Blanching by drawing the soil up around the plants is not the best method, although it is commonly practised by home gardeners. In warm weather it may cause the plants to decay and favours development of leaf spot and injury to the stalks.

Varieties exemplifying three types of celery are:—

Golden self-blanching type: White Plume: Dwarf habit; a good early variety. Gilt Edge Golden: A stocky, very heavy, perfectly solid variety with a splendid flavour; it is the variety most popular with commercial growers.

Late type: Solid White: Excellent late variety; very hardy. The best of the English large, white-stemmed .sorts.

Pink or red type: Superb Pink and London Prize: Flavour is nut-like, quite distinct, -. and pleasant; the pink, red, or purplish colour is distributed over the outer stalks,- but mostly at the margins of the inner stalks, which are otherwise white or cream.

The best varieties for the home gardener for December to January planting are White Plume and. Gilt Edge Golden. For winter growing Solid . White is best.

Celeriac

Celeriac is a member of the celery family and has a large turnip-like root, which is the portion of the plant that is eaten. The roots are trimmed, washed, and boiled without salt or other flavouring until quite tender. They may be pared, sliced, and served with white sauce or left uncut to be sliced up for salads when cold. Many people use celeriac in soups and stews. The seed may be sown outdoors from September to January, and subsequent treatment of the seedlings is similar to that given celery seedlings. Celeriac does best in a deep, moist soil with good humus content. The seedlings should be planted on flat beds in rows 18in. apart, with 12in. between the plants. Celeriac does not require blanching. - '

Leeks . A member of the Allium or onion family, the leek is a most delicious vegetable both cooked and green. It is very hardy and the seed' is usually sown in seed-beds in September for replanting in the garden in December or January. Leeks must be grown in rich ground; otherwise they are liable to become tough. The best soil is a deep, rich, friable loam, but good results may be obtained on fairly heavy ground,. providing it has been well prepared. For best results the soil should be enriched

with well-decayed stable or animal manure or compost and a fertiliser mixture composed of equal parts of blood and bone and superphosphate plus 5 per cent, of sulphate of potash or muriate of potash should be worked into the soil at the rate of 4oz. per square yard. Plants can be set out 6 to Bin. apart in rows 18in. apart when the young seedlings are about the thickness of a lead pencil; transplant them into holes made 5 to 6in. deep with a dibble. The plant is dropped into the hole and watered; this is usually sufficient to settle earth around the roots. When transplanting cut back the leaves, as this helps the stem to develop, and trim the roots to within Ilin, of the bulb. Leeks may also be planted out like celery in trenches sto 6in. deep. The trenches may be narrower than those used for celery, but the plants require more room and should be spaced 12in. apart when grown in this manner.

When cultivating, gradually fill in the holes and as the plants grow draw the soil up around them to cause the stems to lengthen. This will blanch the lower parts of stems of the leeks grown in drills and the whole of those grown in trenches.

Cultivate the ground well between the rows and around the plants to conserve the soil moisture and check weeds. Leeks . require plenty of moisture and must be kept well watered in dry weather while the crop is growing.. Be careful when hoeing or drawing up the soil not to cover the heart of the plant.

Leeks are ready for use any time after they ‘attain suitable size, but under favourable conditions they grow to at least l|in. in diameter with usable stalks 8 to 12in. long. Leeks will keep in perfect condition right through the winter and will not deteriorate in quality until they begin to develop seed stalks in spring.

PLANTING LEEKS

Recommended varieties are: — London Flag: A good early sort and very hardy. Musselburgh (Scotch leek): Best lor . general cropping, is hardy, and forms . general cropping, is hardy, and forms a longer and thicker stem than London Flag (from which it is a selection), leaves large bUt somewhat narrower T ' ■ . Lyon: Good for a . late crop, as it is slow to run to seed m spring and grows to a very large size. e Parsnips

Parsnips require a long growing season, and although they can be planted in December and January in most northern districts, the only variety that is likely to succeed from a late sowing in districts south of Auckland is the turnip-rooted type. Parsnips grow best on land that was heavily manured for a previous crop; the seed may be sown fairly thickly Jin. deep in drills 18in. apart in soil that has been worked down to a fine tilth. Later the plants should be thinned to 4 to 6in. apart. The best variety of parsnip is Hollow Crown, but the turnip-rooted parsnip matures quickly and is good for shallow soils. It is of first-class flavour and well worth a trial. Swedes Swedes can be sown in northern districts from September to February, but October and November are perhaps the best months for southern districts. They succeed best under cool, moist conditions with neither dry nor very wet periods. They should not receive a check while growing, as this may cause them to become woody and tasteless. Late sowings when mature may be stored and used throughout winter and spring. The ground must be in good condition, and land that has been heavily manured for a preceding crop is well

adapted for the growing of swedes. If manuring is necessary, equal parts of superphosphate and blood and bone broadcast over he area at the rate of * h ’ p nrenarinf the eround if satis when P nrenarhiff the eround is satis gXrv A food drfssine of wood S es anolied at the same time will also benefit the crop. Sow the sled Jin. deep in rows 12 to 15in. apart an d later thin the plants to 6 to Sin. apa rt in the rows, „ Recommended varieties are Laing’s Garden and Superlative.

Tomatoes Over the past century the tomato (.Ly coper sicum esculentum) , which is a native of South America, has become very, prominent in the national diet, ousting in popularity practically all vegetables except the potato. It is grown in nearly all home gardens and is extensively cultivated commercially. Besides being eaten raw, it can be used for making soups, chutneys, sauce, and jam. In the North Island and in the warmer parts of the South Island tomatoes may still be planted for the late crop. Plants set out now will produce their first fruits in late March and will continue to bear until killed by early-winter frosts. Late plantings should be supported, for if allowed to lie on the soil, the plants and fruit are more susceptible to blight. Plants in this late planting, especially where potato blight is experienced, will have to be sprayed frequently with Bordeaux mixture (4oz. of bluestone and s|oz. of hydrated lime to 4 gallons of water) or with certified copper oxychloride mixture, to which has been added 2oz. of lead arsenate powder for the control of the tomato worm; instead of lead arsenate Joz. of commercial D.D.T. 50 per cent, wettable powder may be used.

Where soil conditions are dry watering is necessary to maintain soil moisture. The plants should not be watered overhead if it can -be avoided, as wetting the foliage not only washes off the protective spray, but may cause damage to the plant through sun scald. Irrigation is best, and thorough moistening of the soil around the plants in one application is much better than small, frequent applications. Recommended late varieties are Potentate, Supreme, and Market Favourite. Winter Greens During the more favourable growing periods of the year there is little difficulty in having a succession of available green vegetables, but the supply for the winter months presents a more difficult problem to most home gardeners. . Although root and stored crops such as pumpkins are a good standby, a regular supply of green vegetables (which are so rich in essential vitamins) is desirable.

For southern districts December, January, and February are the preferred months for planting winter green crops. In the North Island, where the climatic conditions are much milder, the planting period can be extended to April by using earliermaturing kinds. Plants may be obtained from seedsmen and should be set out in a rich, deeply cultivated, well-drained soil. A fertiliser mixture containing nitrogen, phosphoric acid, and potash is advisable, and a good mixture is 101 b. of blood and bone, 31b. of superphosphate, and fib. of sulphate of potash; this should be applied along the plant rows at the rate of Boz. to 6ft. of row. It should be thoroughly incorporated in the soil before planting to avoid possible damage to the plant roots. Moisture is essential during dry weather and the soil should not be permitted to dry . out. In districts where pests such as white butterfly are troublesome the plants should be protected by dusting or spraying them with the recommended controls such as dusting plants with commercial D.D.T. dusting powder or spraying them with commercial D.D.T. wettable powder. For a 50 per cent wettable powder use Joz. in 4 gallons of water and for a 25 per cent powder loz. in 4 gallons. Applications should be made every 3 or 4 weeks, but should be discontinued 4 weeks before using the vegetables. As a wide range of varieties are suitable for planting, the following can be chosen from; approximate maturity dates are shown in parentheses for December plantings: — Broccoli: Broccoli No. 1 and St. Valentine (August and September), Broccoli No. 2 (October), and Broccoli No. 3 (October and November). Cauliflower: Early London and Phenomenal-Early (March and April), Phenomenal Five Months and Veitch’s Autumn Giant (May and June), and Phenomenal Main Crop and Walcheren (July and August). Savoy cabbage: Omskirk Early (April and May), Drumhead (May and June), and Omega (July and August). Kale: Dwarf Green (March), and Tall Green (April). Brussels sprouts: Scrymger’s Giant and Fillbasket (April and May).