TRANSFORMATION TRICK WITH AN OLD CHAIR

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 74, Issue 1, 15 January 1947, Page 95

TRANSFORMATION TRICK WITH AN OLD CHAIR

By

EVA TOPPING,

, Rural Sociologist, Auckland.

THE “before” photograph of the old chair really makes it appear better looking than it was, for the seat covering had faded; time and moths had eaten away some of the pile; and the woodwork was very scratched and shabby. The back must have been even higher once, because the top bar was unstained, with tack-holes where a padded piece had been attached, and the corners were rough and showed saw marks. In fact, though the seat was comfortable and well sprung and the frame sturdy, sound, and quite free from borer, the chair was no ornament in any room and the back was too upright for comfort. A conversion job was planned, and in case you have one of these old timers and would like to turn it into an up-to-date fireside or bedroom chair, here is the way it was done.

FIRST, the chair was taken into the open air and thoroughly but lightly beaten to remove dust from the seat. Then the castors were removed; this was a little difficult as they were well rusted, but when a little kerosene was used around the screws they finally yielded. Of course, when the castors were taken off, the back legs were longer than the front, and the next step. appeared to be to cut off a piece from each back leg. However, as the chair seat would still be too high off the ground, it as decided to shorten the front legs first. Taking bits off the legs of tables and chairs can be troublesome, as each leg must be exactly right or the piece of furniture will wobble. If your chair is too high, stand it on a table and measure up from the table top, marking the position on each leg where the cut is to be made; a block of wood, a tin, or anything with a firm edge

and of the correct depth will do for a gauge. This method is much safer than measuring from the top down. When the two front legs had been shortened, the back ones were cut a little lower than the front tp give a slightly-backward tilt to the chair. These cuts were made at an angle so that the base of the legs would be level when the chair was standing. To determine the correct slope for the cuts, the chair was placed side down on,the floor, with the base of the front legs on an edge of a floor board. The board was used as a guide to scratch a mark on the edge of the back leg and the cut was made parallel. with the floor board. When all the legs were cut and the chair was standing quite steady, one big hazard had been safely negotiated. Altering the Back Cut a piece of thin wood to fit in the back frame behind the rails, leaving a gap about 3in. between the base of the chair back and the seat. Preferably, this sheet of wood should be three-ply, but the lid or side of . a box or other thin wood could be used. Fix it in place with long, slender tacks or very fine, short nails. Avoid using heavy nails, for they may split the frame. The padding, which varies according to the shape of the chair being converted, is the next step, and for this flax tow is useful, if it is procurable in your district. It can be used to make the under-part of the stuffing, but cotton waste which is sold for cushion filling should be used for the outer layer to’ give a smooth, soft surface. On the chair illustrated a little extra padding was needed just above the seat and along the top rail to make the back more comfortable and to give a better line. To obtain this effect a piece of cloth was tacked on

to the lower rail at the back and drawn through to the front. It was then tightly padded with cushion filling, the same process being repeated at the top. Padding the Back Next, a piece of material was cut to the shape of the back, generous turnings, about 3in. top and bottom and 2in. on the sides, being left. Do not skimp these turnings, as the back covering should be in one piece and must go well round the frame at every point. It was tacked firmly in place on the bottom at the back, and pulled through to the front. The side edge was turned under and tacked down at the back, half-way up one side. Then the padding was begun by pushing the filling well down, making it firm

and free from lumps. The first side was tacked securely and the second ■side lightly as the work proceeded up the . back, and the material was carried over the first padding and fastened securely along the top. The second side was pulled firm and tacked ■down carefully. The turnings were all made’ double to give a firm, tidy edge and to prevent the material •tearing.

At this stage one can begin to see what the finished chair will look like and can decide the type of new covering it is to have. It can be a tight cover tacked on back and seat •only, or a loose slip as shown in the illustration. Heavier materials should be used if the covering is to be tacked -directly on to the chair; loose covers can be of lighter-weight fabrics, and cretonne, linen, cotton tapestry, casement cloths, chintz, printed cottons, and gingham make good washable slips.

Making the Loose Cover

Measure the chair and calculate the amount of material required. If you are using a patterned ‘ fabric which has a decided repeat design, be sure to allow for cutting the backs and seat pieces so that the motifs come in the centre of the area. When a flounce is attached, whether ' pleated or gathered on, remember that the length -of material required for the flounce is. at least one and a half times the measurement round the chair at the point where the flounce joins the cover. Cut patterns in paper for: 1.- The shape of the seat top, leaving ample turnings at the sides and front and about sin. to tuck down on the back edge;

2. The front of chair back, allowing sufficient width to cover the sides and top and sin. to tuck in between back and seat; 3. The back from top of chair to top edge of flounce; 4. The front panel; and 5. The side panel (the side pieces will probably narrow from front to back, especially if the tilt of the chair has been altered by lowering the back legs). Lay the patterns on the material, remembering to cut two side panels. Cut lengths for the flounce, leaving sufficient for turnings at the head and a |in. hem at the foot.

Take up the seat section and pin it firmly in position on the chair on the wrong side of material, leaving good turnings on the front and sides. Lay a piping cord on the edge of the seat and pin a turning over it; tack carefully in position and stitch by machine close to the cord.

Join the front and side panels, and pin them on to the chair right-side out. Put the seat piece on the chair and pin it in position over the front and side panels, making a lapped seam. Stitch again close to cord.

Take the front back section and pin it on chair back. Make mitred corners at the top so that the material covers the top and sides of the back. Stitch these two corners. Stitch the seam at junction of the seat and back portions, leaving both ends free.

Put the cover on the chair wrongside out and pin it in place. Tuck the extra material well down at the back.

Take up the long back piece and pin it across the top and down the sides, pulling it tight across the back so that the cover fits well. Measure from the bottom of the shaped side panel to the point where the top of the flounce will come, and cut pieces to fit the front and sides.

Remove the cover and stitch down one side and across the top at the back.

Lay a piping cord round the sides and the front of the panel, and stitch. Attach the second front and sides. Join lengths of materials for the flounce and make the hem. Gather or tack pleats, as preferred.

Replace the cover on the chair and pin the flounce in position, making sure that it is quite even and just clears the floor. It will be easier if the chair is set on a table to do this part. Stitch on the flounce. Finishing Back Make a hem down the open edge at the back and a facing on the front part. This opening can be finished with hooks and eyes or dome fasteners

if preferred, but stitching it on the chair by hand is more satisfactory, as the cover can be adjusted smoothly over the back and has no gaps, which is often the case when fasteners are used. Tuck the “pocket”- down well between back and seat, and make a roll of newspaper, pushing it well down in the “pocket” to keep the seat cover from working loose in wear. If four small glides are fixed to the legs, the chair will move easily. The materials used for the illustrated chair were: : s. d. 2|- yards cretonne at 4s. 9d. a yard .. .. 11 101 11b. cushion filling ... .. 1 3 Set of small glides .. 6 Piece of three-ply wood Old cretonne cushion cover (strong but very faded). The old chair was bought secondhand for 75., bringing the total outlay to a little over £l.

The length of material and amount of stuffing necessary may vary for a differently-shaped chair, but the variation would be very slight [Photographs by Sparrow Industrial Pictures Ltd

Grey-Winged Days

DON’T you love the “grey-winged days”? We have so many of them here in the south— skies with patches of ethereal blue-green over the horizon, the sea calm and cold and colourless, but full of reflections. It seems to me that on such a day there is a little hushing finger raised so that even the breeze walks on tiptoe, and the tiny waves are almost afraid to clap their hands. They do it so softly you have to stand very still, right at the water’s edge, to hear them. Do you know these lovely lines of Helena Henderson’s?: I love these soft, still, pearl and opal days. The sun, like a shy lover, hides his f'CLCCf Yet all his ardour filters through the haze Like glow-worm light in a grey shadowy place. The trees stand breathless. No exalting wind Goes singing through them loosening from their hold The spent, sad leaves that autumn - long have pined To dance a dervish-dance in showers of gold. -\- There are so, many days that fill my heart, Bronze days and blue days, and the days of Spring; But a soft grey day is a thing apart, The filmy bloom upon a linnets wing. There may be in the calendars of Heaven One pearl and opal day in every seven. “Tinkle Tinkle,” Dunedin.