HOME GARDEN NOTES

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 71, Issue 3, 15 September 1945, Page 307

HOME GARDEN NOTES

Work for October

“Whatever we have in any sort begun wisely, it is good to finish it thoroughly.’

—John Ruskin.

HAVING had a good start with the vegetable-growing season, every effort should be made to adhere to the planting scheme as originally decided upon before planting commenced. Alterations for the sake of expediency will invariably have unsatisfactory results.

Tomatoes

The increasing importance of tomatoes in the daily diet warrants this crop being given pride of place in the garden work for October. In most districts where tomatoes can be grown satisfactorily outside it is advisable to start hardening off the young plants from the beginning of - October. If plants are to be purchased, this should be done as soon as convenient. These, too, should be properly taken care of until they are set out in their permanent place. Because of their removal when more fully grown, purchased plants should receive greater care in the hardening off period than those which have been home-grown. A sheltered part of the garden should be chosen for transplanting, and adequate protection provided against high winds. In bright, sunny weather light shade for two or three days immediately after transplanting would be an advantage.

As soon as the area in which the plants are to be grown to maturity is clear of the preceding crop soil preparation should begin. If, at the time of reading these notes, the land is growing a green crop, this should be dug in immediately. Heavy soil will require trenching, and provision should be made for adequate drainage.

. It is an advantage to apply the fertiliser at least two weeks before planting time. In the home garden blood and bone manure is still the safest fertiliser to use for tomatoes. Four ounces should be distributed along each 9ft. of row, or soz. bonedust. If this is done, the plant food content of the manure applied will be available for assimilation by the plant earlier than it would be if application is delayed until planting time.

■ When the plants are to be grown to one stem only, 12 to 14in. is. convenient spacing, but 16 to 18in. will be necessary when two stems are trained from each plant. When setting the plants they should be placed in

the soilnot dumped down— so that the first true leaves are just above ground level. If more than one row of plants are set out, they should be separated by not less • than 3ft. Throughout the tomato-growing areas of the Dominion Labour Day is recognised as a safe time for setting plants in the garden.

Pumpkins and Squash

As plants belonging to the pumpkin and squash family are all frost-tender, it is not advisable to have them growing outside earlier than late October. Plants for setting can, however, be obtained by adopting much the same procedure as that practised for growing tomatoes. A box not less than 6in. deep should be used and filled to the top with a mixture of soil and compost. Three seeds can be pressed into the soil 2in. • apart to form a triangle, with 6in. at least between each lot of seeds. Plants grown in this way may be treated just like tomatoes, and hardened off in the same manner. The day before planting the box should be soaked in a tub or bath, so that the soil will be thoroughly wet when the plants are removed for setting. Considerable care is necessary when the plants are being taken out of the boxes. They should not be separated, but, if possible, maintained in the triangular form in which they were grown and these planted in one place. To grow this crop successfully in the home garden nothing better can be dug into the soil than well-rotted stable manure, supplemented by a couple of handfuls of superphosphate to each lot of plants. Six feet each way is the usual spacing between “hills” of plants. It is possible to grow them along the wires of a strong fence.

Rock Melons: All the above remarks apply to rock melons, but these are usually planted Bft. apart.

Marrows: Marrow plants may be propagated as advised for pumpkins, but the special variety recommended for the home garden—Long White Bush —should be spaced 3ft. apart each way.

Beans

For early production of beans caution is necessary with regard to the weather conditions which may .obtain in different districts.. The

plants are frost-tender, and the slightest degree of frost will destroy all young growth. Cold, wet conditions are also undesirable for early sowing, and the plants will not flourish where cold conditions prevail either above or in the soil.

To secure an early crop seed of a dwarf variety should be sown. Black Valentine or Canadian Wonder Improved (Burnley Selection) are suitable varieties; the latter is reputed to be largely wilt resistant. Heavy manuring is not necessary for beans, and in ordinary good garden soil superphosphate 2oz. to the running yard of row will generally be sufficient fertiliser. Under moist conditions and in light soil the seed should be sown not deeper than 2in., while in heavy soil less depth is desirable. Before sowing, and with a goose-necked garden hoe, a shallow trench should be opened, at the bottom of which the seed may be sown. Subsequent cultivation will fill in this trench and give the fully-grown plants better rooting facilities.

Potatoes

Early potato crops will require attention, and where wet weather conditions have been experienced hoeing, particularly for weed destruction, is necessary. Good-sized early tubers cannot be secured under conditions where they have to compete with weeds for the plant food in the soil. Further, weed growth among the plants prevents proper air circulation,

which, under humid conditions, will almost certainly be responsible for an attack of potato blight. For additional protection to the plants a timely spraying with Bordeaux mixture should be made. , Carrots When carrots are being thinned the soil should be pressed firmly against the crowns of the remaining roots. After thinning horticultural naphthalene may be- applied at the rate of loz. to 9ft. of row. To obtain even distribution this may be mixed with dry sand or soil. Cabbage (Early Savoy) Seed may be sown now for an early autumn crop of Savoy. cabbage. This planting should not follow in the same part of the garden on which the spring cabbage crop was grown. Early Savoy cabbage plants, if set out as soon as properly ready, will, under favourable conditions, be sufficiently far advanced in growth to escape serious damage from aphis. They should be liberally fertilised and kept well watered. Leeks Leeks are a first-class late autumn, winter, and early spring vegetable, and seed should be sown during October. The plants may be grown in boxes, and, whether grown this way or in the open garden, better plants will be obtained by sowing the seed in rows. If a box is used, it should be not less than 6in. deep. Two inches spacing between the rows’ will be sufficient. The soil in the box should be maintained in moist condition, but between the rows the surface soil should be kept in loose condition. Asparagus Cutting of asparagus should . not be made -from one-year planted roots and

not more than two weeks’ light cutting from those which are planted for 2 years. Only from matured roots should harvesting be continued from 7 to 8 weeks. The spears should be cut under the surface, and always with a downward slope. When the spear is cut through the cutting, tool should not be pressed further, otherwise injury to undeveloped buds is likely, which will prevent subsequent growth reaching maturity in usable condition. Kumaras Kumaras, should not be set out while there is any likelihood of frost. They are particularly sensitive to extreme cold and are easily destroyed during frosty conditions. In favourable situations plants may be set out from mid-October onwards. ' A light, sandy, well-drained, loamy soil, in a position which will be quickly warmed up by the sun, is suitable for a good crop. Kumaras may be grown in much the same way as potatoes, except that the “slips” should preferably be planted on land which is slightly ridged. Fertiliser should be applied as for potatoes, excess nitrogen being particularly avoided. When set out under dry soil and weather conditions the plants will get a better start if given a good watering. Garlic Where garlic bulbs are required for domestic use there may still be sufficient time to bring the plants to maturity. Garlic is grown from “cloves.” These are the segments of which the bulb is composed, and may be planted from 4 to 6in. apart in rows Ift. apart. Depth of planting will vary from 1 to 2in. according to the type of soil.

Celeriac

Celeriac differs from ordinary celery in that the bulbous root is eaten. Celeriac seed may be sown any time now, and the seedlings transplanted 2in. apart each way. . As the bulbs are very tender when small, the plants can be set as close as 4in. in rows 12in. apart. Much the same cultural practices as for celery are necessary for the production of goodquality bulbs. Attention to detail, however, is not required to the same extent, and the plant is not blanched.

Cucumbers

Except in comparatively frost-free areas, cucumber seed should not be sown until late October. Cucumbers are grown as an outside crop only in districts where relatively warm weather conditions obtain. They will grow well on most types of soil, those of light texture being best for early crop production. Cucumber plants require abundant moisture, but good drainage is very necessary. Holes may be dug 12in. deep, being the same width, and filled to a depth of 6in. with well-rotted stable manure, which is covered to soil level with good friable soil containing plenty of organic matter. Round the edge of the '■ soil filling, 6 to 8 seeds may be planted, the seedling plants being subsequently thinned to 3 or 4. These “hills” should be spaced 42 to 60in. apart each way.

Peas

A main crop sowing of peas may be made during October; seed of Greenfeast, Stratagem, or Richard Seddon should be used. The dwarf variety which already may be growing in the garden can very largely be brought to maturity by banking with plenty of soil, hoed from between the rows. The taller-growing varieties named above should, however, *be given some support. Banking will considerably assist, but wire-netting fastened to stakes will give best results. If properly grown, any of the varieties mentioned will grow up to 4ft. and higher, and will bear continuously for 6 to 8 weeks. Provided the main crop sowing is well looked after, the crop returns will amply reward the labour expended. Plenty of water is necessary, but good drainage is essential. This crop should not be grown on an area in which peas were grown last season. Rotation is the best means of preventing the plants being attacked by collar > rot. If seed has not been saved from healthy, vigorous, disease-free stock, buy only the best seed from reputable seedsmen.

—D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor in

Vegetable Culture, Wellington.