Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 69, Issue 2, 15 August 1944, Page 161

Guide for the Home Garden

Work for September

“There is land enough and seed enough, There are tools enough and people enough To grow and preserve food enoughlF”

Victory Garden Slogan.

“If you will play your part in horticulture, And dig your soil and then prepare to sow, - If you would have an ideal Victory Garden, Then you must learn to cultivate and hoe.” UR, CLAUDE R. VICKARD, U.S.A. Secretary for Agriculture, has said, “Food Will win the war and write the peace.” The real meaning of this statement is that the restoration of all belligerent countries to peace-time conditions will be simplified if food supplies are plentiful. The home vegetable garden, therefore, has its part to play, the importance of which cannot very well be over-esti-mated. “September for seed sowing” is a maxim worthy of adoption when laying plans for the coming season. There are few home-grown vegetables the seed of which cannot be sown during September, that is, providing proper care and discretion are exercised concerning the different varieties selected. , < Sow Sparingly It should be emphasised again that sowing more seed than is necessary for the production of the number of plants required is not only a waste of seed, but often results in weak, spindly plants, due to overcrowding in the seed-bed. Seed should be sown sparingly, and, during September, shallow, soil coverage will suffice, if precautions are taken to prevent undue evaporation of moisture from the surface soil. An important point which should be observed is that when a seedling box is used for seed germination it is advisable to keep it covered, preferably with a sheet of lightcoloured papernewspaper will be suitable — germination starts, after which instant removal is necessary. Cabbage: Summer cabbage plants which may not yet be set out should be planted without further delay. If home-grown plants are not ready, it may be more profitable to buy what is required, rather than miss the opportunity of securing the early growth of plants of this variety (Golden Acre). These will follow closely on

after Flower of Spring, and, as will be advised later, can largely be made an addition to a winter savoy planting. Harvesting the spring cabbage mentioned above should now be going on. If, by the middle of September, the bed has not been properly thinned out by cutting, those remaining are not likely to develop into full-hearted specimens. It would therefore be more profitable to make plenty of room for development, even at the risk of losing a few which may be only partly hearted. Celery: September is considered the earliest month for sowing celery seed

in the open. Golden Self-Blanching, as an early variety, is quite suitable, and in order to ensure sufficient plants to meet requirements allowance should be made for germination failure or weakness. Although there are between 80,000 and 90,000 celery seeds in 1 oz., the average germination rarely exceeds 65 per cent. Part of this failure may be due to the length of time the seeds take to germinate—--2J to 3 weeks. The soil in which celery seed is sown should be of very fine tilth, and it is an advantage to have it passed through a fine sieve. A shallow box is best, and when the seedlings are 1| to 2 in. high they should be pricked out, either into larger and deeper boxes or in a shel-

tered part of the garden, allowing 2 in. each way between the plants. Asparagus: The area occupied by the roots should be kept conspicuously free of weeds, and as soon as the first spears begin to show nitrate of soda, 1 oz. per sq. yard, may, with advantage, be broadcast over the bed. Plenty of good freshly-made liquid manure may be used as a substitute. Lettuce: A few seeds broadcast into a box of soil, which should be maintained in a moist condition, will keep up the necessary supply of young plants. It should be remembered that tender, crisp lettuces can be produced only by rapid growth. They require a rich soil, plenty of water, and, when hearting, either a pinch of nitrate of

soda or regular applications of liquid manure. Rhubarb (spring): The remarks made concerning asparagus are appropriate for this crop. Seed-stalks should be removed as soon as they are observed. Permitted to grow and set seed, the plant is robbed of considerable plant food. Peas- Although seed mav be sown very earlv it is doubtful if much is rained and a great deal'mav be lost by ana a great aeal may be lost by earlier than August, particularly where severe weather ’ condidrained soff? which containk abundlnce of organic matter, and which has been dug over in autumn, is ideal for a pea crop. Good crops may, however, be produced on most types of soil, except heavy clay. Blood and bone manure, 4 oz. to each 9 ft. of row, may be applied and worked into the top soil. The seed is best sown 1-J-in. deep at the bottom of a shallow trench, : which. may be made with an ordinary garden vegetable hoe. The edge of the blade is sunk into the soil and pulled along the line of row. A short distance with each pull will make a bet- ' ter job than continual dragging. W. F. Massey is an appropriate early variety, which can be followed by

Greenfeast, Richard Seddon, or Stratagem. Leeks: What remains of this crop should now be used, as with the advent of warm spring conditions seed stems are sure to develop. It is one of the most valuable vegetables usually grown in the garden, and preparations may be made now for sowing seed for a small early bed. The main sowin can be made later. ' Seed can be sown in rows in a seedling box not less than 4 i in - dee P r . in a sheltered * an 4 m.ae^p orm a snelterea in rows so that welTs may be kept under control while the seedlings are developing. Musselburgh or London Flag are suitable varieties. - Potatoes: If it is intended to grow a main crop the seed, if not already obtained, should be • secured without delay. It is not considered necessary to “shoot” main crop seed; but if the area it is intended to use is at present occupied by a crop, ' the seed will be maintained in much' better condition if se t out n seedling boxes than if kept in a sack. ' , Tomatoes: In the previous. issue of the Journal it was suggested that sufficient soil might be sterilised in which tomato plants could be grown to meet the season’s requirements. In

view of the vital importance of this crop, soil sterilisation is of vital importance. The tomato plant is classed among those which are very susceptible to. disease attacks, and as. many of the diseases which do affect the plant are soil-borne, sterilisation of the soil, preferably by steam, is the most practical and efficient means of destroying the responsible agents. As to how relatively small quantities of soil may be effectively and cheaply treated, home gardeners are referred to the issue the Journal This publication contains a sketch plan and full directions for carrying out the operation. After sterilisation the soil may be used for sowing seed in two or three days, but no nitrogenous fertiliser should be mixed with it. Provided the soil treated-was ordinary good garden soil which perhaps had been mixed < with, say, one-third its weight of good compost, manures of any kind will not be necessary for growing seedlings up to the stage when pricking out is done. For raising seedlings a small box 10 in. x 10 in. long by 2-j in. deep should be filled with the treated soil, pressed well down, and levelled off on top by pulling a piece of timber

along the sides. In furrows | to 3-8 in. deep the seed should be sparsely sown, pressed into the soil, and covered with some of the sterilised soil which has been passed through a fine sieve. This operation being completed, the whole of the soil on. top of the. box should be gently but firmly pressed with a piece of dressed timber and covered with a sheet of glass, on top of which is laid a piece of newspaper. Before germination the sheet of glass should be turned daily. As soon as the seed begins to sprout all covering on the box should be removed, but no bright sunlight should be allowed direct access to the germinating seedlings; this is very important. Growing these - seedlings is not a difficult job, but care and attention are necessary, and success brings a great amount of satisfaction. According to the methods adopted during propagation, the seedlings will be ready for pricking out in 14 to 21 days, and by the end of this period they should be properly hardened off. Gradual exposure to lower temperatures is the safest method of achieving this. If tomato seed has not yet been obtained, or if none were saved from last year’s crop, a trial might be made of Best of All. From experience it can be stated that it will stand sunshine after rain without cracking better than most varieties. It bears rather larger round fruits, but these are firmly held in good trusses on vigorous growth. Turnips: Early sowings of these which .may have been made during favourable weather conditions will, with the advent of spring; show a tendency to “bolt” to. seed.. : As soon as this is ■’ noticed the entire ’ bed- should' be dug--in-- and fresh seed sown' in another, part of the garden......lt., is a

quick-maturing crop and is only palatable when young and fresh. Radish: An odd corner of the garden can , always be utilised to advantage by a small sowing of radish seed. With good soil and moist conditions the seed may be sown and the crop harvested in from 6 to 7 weeks. Successional sowings of small quantities of seed are most desirable, as the product can be used only when tender. Carrots: In areas where the carrot rust-fly is prevalent sowings of carrot seed should be deferred until late November .or early December. Fortunately,.' this, remark, does not, at present, apply to the South Island, where, so far as is. known, the pest has not yet been recognised as having attacked carrots: Where thinning is carried out in existing beds care should be

exercised to see that the soil is pressed firmly against the crowns of the roots remaining in the ground. Cauliflowers: During September seed should be sown to produce plants for late autumn maturity. The seedlings may very well be grown in a box 4| to 6 in. deep, or in a part of the garden where they will obtain plenty of sunshine and fair exposure. During late spring and summer young plants, if grown in ■ carefully-sheltered spots,' will not . acquire the vigorous constitution necessary to withstand subsequent growing conditions. Phenomenal, Southern Cross, and Metropolis are recommended varieties.

—D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor

in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Don'ts DON’T neglect “banking up” soil on the early potato crop. Exposure of tubers affords a favourable opportunity for the depredations of the potato . tuber-moth. DON’T dig in a non-leguminous greenmanure crop immediately before setting plants in the soil on top of it, unless sulphate of ammonia, loz. per square yard, is broadcast over the area before digging is begun. Lupins, or other legumes, can be dug in any time better not too mature. DON’T overlook laying the foundation of the next compost heap. All that can be properly made on the garden will be required. DON’T always blame poor germination on the quality of seed supplied by the seedsman. Try to improve the practices which have previously been adopted.