Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 66, Issue 1, 15 January 1943, Page 45

Guide for the Home Garden

Seed Production in the Home Garden

APPREHENSION concerning a probable shortage of vegetable seed or increased prices for seeds which may be available, may induce many home gardeners to attempt to produce, and save seed from plants grown by them in their own garden. While efforts in this direction can at all times be commended, the results obtained may not always come up to expecta—may, indeed, have serious and undesirable repercussions with regard to the quantity, and quality of the crops grown from the seed so produced.

From the numerous inquiries received and acknowledged concerning the production, and saving of vegetable seeds, it seems evident that some hints, and recommendations in these notes on this important phase of home gardening may be timely.

Seed production, whether for private use or commercially, at all times carries with it definite responsibilities, not only to the producer of the seed, but to those who may consume the vegetables produced from the- seed saved. Annual Production The opinion is generally held that it is necessary to produce every year fresh seed of each variety of vegetable which may be grown in the garden. This, however, is not so, as the profitable life of vegetable seeds varies from one to ten years, and even longer, according to the variety. Tests recently carried out by Edgar W. Pritchard, Dip. Econ., Agricultural Botanist, South Australia, showed that, in the eighth year after harvesting, peas (Greenfeast) gave 67 per cent, germination, and tomato seed from the tenth to the thirteenth year inclusive gave 60 per cent., 65 per cent., 43 per cent, and 58 per cent, germination respectively. All varieties of beans were good up to the sixth and seventh year, varying from 85 and 90 per cent, in the former, and 36 per cent, to 70 per cent, in the latter year. Profitable cabbage germination varied from two to four years, rock melons up to twelve years, turnips and lettuce to three years, and radish to seven years.

It will be realised from the foregoing results, that annual production of the vegetable seeds required in the garden is not only unnecessary, but inadvisable, because of the ever present possibility of cross-fertilisation. Briefly, it may be stated that tomatoes,

peas, beans, and lettuce, although selfpollinated, may cross, but not to any appreciable extent. Cucurbits (marrows, pumpkins, etc.), carrots, parsnips and celery are self-fertile, but often cross-pollinate. Naturally cross-polli-nated varieties are asparagus, beet, onions, radish, spinach, and all members of the cabbage family. Unless precautionary measures are adopted in any attempt to produce vegetable seed, only those varieties which do not naturally cross-pollinate should be selected. During the flowering period varieties which cross-polli-nate should be protected by having the entire plant completely enclosed by some light covering material such as scrim. Plant Selection Plants selected for seed production should conform in the highest degree to the desirable characteristics of the variety to which they belong. Trueness to type, early maturity, healthy vigorous growth, productive capacity, and freedom from disease are necessary in plant selection. Seeds to Produce Tomato, sweet corn, pepper, lettuce, and parsnip seed may be produced, also peas and beans, but plants of these varieties should be selected with particular care in order to prevent the subsequent spread of diseases. Beets, carrots, and onions are stored during winter, and planted early the following spring. Cabbage, cauliflower, borecole, etc., require such special knowledge, and particular skill -that production of seeds of these varieties by the home gardener cannot be recommended. The risk of cross-fertilisa-tion is too great. ...... ' • ■'X Mass Selection To obtain best results, and to maintain distinct and desirable characteristics in any vegetable variety, it is not advisable to choose tomatoes, peppers, etc., from those which may have been picked because they were becoming ripe, and looked well. Special plants ' should be selected, and marked so that only the best specimens of fruit from the best plants may be secured for seed production. Maturity and Harvesting Climatic conditions will, in many instances, be a deciding factor in vegetable seed production. Excessive wet

conditions with high humidity during autumn will tend to prevent ripening. Good rainfall during spring, reasonably moist conditions in summer, and a dry autumn are ideal conditions' for vegetable seed production. Unless weather such as that indicated can be depended on, efforts to produce one’s own seed may end in failure. Storage Seed, when harvested, must be properly stored. Containers which are reasonably air-tight should be used. Kept otherwise, rats, mice or other destructive agents may render the bulk of the seed useless. Seed well grown, and properly cured will retain its vitality within the limits of ordinary temperature variations. Commercial seed production is, today, a vast and highly specialised industry. Engaged in it are plant breeders, expert seed growers, and specialists in several branches of agricultural science, and it is not too' much to assume that, apart from seed production, the scientist and the grower are recognising how much they have in common, and to what extent the world’s food supply depends on their joint collaboration and combined efforts. Tomatoes February is the month which usually calls for special attention to autumn

and winter maturing crops. Tomato plants which have been properly grown will have attained a height of from - 2ft. to over 3ft. according to variety, ■ time of planting and growing conditions. If the plants have been set too close or if other crops tend to overcrowd them, adequate air circulation . will be prevented, and this may . be responsible for the start of trouble from blight. The danger may be minimised by the > removal of leaves immediately below the bottom truss of fruit. These leaves, however, should be removed by cutting with a sharp knife, not by breaking them off. The latter method will leave a rough wound through which harmful bacteria may enter the plant. Removal of this heavy foliage will make easier spraying of the plant stem with a combination spray containing arsenate of lead. As has been previously stated complete spray coverage of the plant is the only safeguard against attacks of ■ blight. During February a sharp look-out should be kept for maturing fruit. As soon as the tomatoes begin to colour they should be picked. At this time of the year blackbirds and thrushes are particularly active in tomato beds, and considerable damage may be done by these birds unless the ripening fruit is removed. Cabbage As it is not desirable to leave unoccupied any part of the garden in

which a profitable crop may be grown, a few late, well-grown Savoy cabbage plants Omega variety—may still be set out. Under good growing conditions, and with judicious manuring, and watering, combined with adequate protection from the usual garden pests, the plants will make good growth before the advent of cold weather which will restrict development. Gourds Marrows, pumpkins, etc.: Unless it is intended to store the balance of the crop remaining on the vines, the mature fruits should be removed and used as convenient. This will induce better growth of immature gourds which will ultimately be saved for storage and winter use. The tips of all the vines should be removed to prevent the plant from becoming exhausted in useless foliage production. Applications of liquid manure, preferably made from animal excreta, will at all times be beneficial to any of the gourd family. It should be applied after watering or after rain. Potatoes When the crop reaches maturity it is advisable to remove it as early as possible, and the tubers placed in storage. This is specially desirable in locations which may be subject to exceptionally moist conditions. Removal of the crop will serve the double purpose of preventing second growth which results in a certain amount of deterioration of the tubers, and will permit that part of the garden occupied by the crop to be turned over. Removal of matured crops is a necessary part of garden hygiene. Even if no immediate vegetable cropping on the same area is contemplated, seed of a green crop can be sown and later dug in. Brassicas That eternal vigilance which is reputed to be the price of liberty is also the price which, if paid, will secure the autumn and winter green vegetable crops for winter use. February, and early March are usually the worst

months for these crops. Periods of warm, dry weather induce attacks by plant pests, and make necessary the use of insecticides in either spray or dust form. Nicotine sulphate, arsenate of lead and derris used according to directions usually printed on containers will be effective in protecting the plants. Hoeing—always shallow — should be frequent to maintain a soil mulch, and assist the conservation of moisture. During dry spells of weather regular and copious supplies of water should be applied to make good the loss through transpiration. Celery Celery plants should receive plenty of water, and occasional applications of liquid manure. If being grown in trenches, the sides should be maintained at a height which will ensure proper blanching. Beds will require boards arranged along the sides to blanch the plants. In warm districts a late planting may still be made, which, if it does not mature as dessert quality, will invariably be of value for other domestic requirements. Swedes should be properly thinned out and kept free from seeds. Cultivation in this crop should be particularly shallow, and the top growth sprayed for aphides. Leeks, too, will require heavy watering, but the soil must be well drained. Liquid manuring is of special value to this crop. —D. K. PRITCHARD, Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

What To Do In The Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During February

SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. Peas (dwarf), lettuce (sow in the row and thin out), turnips (Model White). OTHER SOWINGS. Spinach, endive (for winter use), carrots (Earlykrop, Early Shorthorn), cabbage (Flower of Spring for spring use). CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month in which the seed may be sown).

Cucumbers (Sept.), lettuce (June), sweet corn (spring, after frost danger), tomatoesoutside grown (late Aug.Sept.), radish (spring and summer). Green —Peas (June, July and early spring), silver beet (early spring and early autumn), beans (late Oct. and Nov.). —Marrows, pumpkins and squash (Oct. and Nov., earlier in frost-free areas). Root Crops. Beetroot and carrots (almost all the year round), parsnips (early spring to early autumn), onions (late March-early April), salsify (early spring), turnips (except winter months).