Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 63, Issue 5, 15 November 1941, Page 436

Guide for the Home Garden

Care of Cabbage Plants and Leeks

DECEMBER to mid-January is the period in which all plants of the cabbage family which are expected to mature towards the end of autumn or during winter should be planted out. 7. Provided the recommendations relating to cruciferous crops for winter made in the October issue of the “Jour- , nal” have been adopted, no great difficulty should be experienced in obtaining a good start with the plants, even if the weather is unfavourable. When it is intended to water a bed of seedlings in the morning, less shock will be experienced by the plants if the water to be used is drawn the night before, as it will have warmed up considerably during the night. Rain water, however, is the ideal liquid for ' this purpose. Leeks This vegetable, which is somewhat despised in favour of the onion, is, in fact, an almost indispensable addition ; to the winter supplies usually grown in the home garden. Many people to whom the strong flavour of the onion is objectionable will find the leek much . milder and more palatable. The crop will withstand the severest frost, and, when well grown, should be available until the end of October. In addition, it has the reputation of being more immune from attacks by disease and insect pests than any other vegetable. As roughage in the meal, it possesses excellent laxative properties. Surely these commendable qualities merit the ‘ leek a place among the winter vegetables being grown? Soil The better the soil the better the product, but reasonably good crops may be grown in almost any kind of garden soil, except that of a very light sandy composition. A clay loam, rich in organic content, is the ideal soil, as this will retain an abundance of moisture which is so necessary during the dry period while growth is proceeding. . - . . . i Manuring Blood and bone is the safest manure to use. This may be applied along the lines of planting at the rate of lib. to 20 feet of row, and well worked into the soil. -

Planting A trench about four inches deep should be opened up, and at the bottom of this a hole made sufficiently deep to permit the green top of the plant to be exposed. Into this opening the plant should be dropped, followed .by water. If the soil is of a type which is inclined to “set” hard, do not use a dibber —a trowel is better. When a dibber is pressed into such soil and turned round before being withdrawn, a “wall” is created, which has • already started the “setting” process. The plants may be set at any distance to suit the convenience of the gardeners to 6 inches apart, in rows between which 12 to 15 inches have been allowed. This distance will be sufficient to permit good development.

As growth proceeds, cultivation will fill in the trenches. This will assist in blanching the stems of the plant, the portion which is usually consumed as a ■ vegetable. Later, the soil may be drawn higher up the plants, which will increase the length of the blanched stem. ' ■ . i While the plants are maturing occasional applications of liquid manure will be helpful. The leek, however, will not flourish under dry conditions. For best results a plentiful supply of water is necessary, and, in addition, constant use of the hoe. No vegetable in the garden will so well repay the small amount of labour involved in the production of this crop. —D. K. PRITCHARD, Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Protecting Tomato Plants From Pests

WORK with the tomato crop during ' December should consist mainly in the removal . of all unnecessary shoots, cultivation, spraying, and keeping the plants well tied to the stakes. Fertiliser Provided steady growth is being maintained, no additional manure should be necessary. After picking has started, an application, of suitable fertiliser might be beneficial. ' \

Diseases It may be well to indicate the nature of some of the more important diseases from which the tomato plant is liable to suffer. Potato blight of tomatoes, which is generally known as late blight, is caused by the fungus Phytophthora infestans. In addition to the remarks concerning this disease which appeared in this section in the May issue of the

“Journal,” the fruit is attacked, .. and the blight is easily recognised by the appearance on the tomatoes of large, grey-black blemishes. Spraying with Bordeaux mixture is the best practical preventive. Early blight of tomatoes is caused by the fungus Macrosporium solani. The plant is attacked in much the same way as with late blight, and similar preventive measures are recommended. Spray for prevention, not for cure.

Wilts

The tomato plant is subject to three wilting diseases— wilt, Verticillium wilt, and Fusarium wilt. The only positive method of distinguishing the difference between the two lastnamed diseases is by the isolation of the fungus in the laboratory. Bacterial wilt may be identified if, when the main stem of the plant is cut through, a slimy substance is seen to ooze from it. This does not occur when plants otherwise affected are dealt with in a similar manner. The results of attacks on plants by these three diseases are, for all practical purposes, the samea general wilting of the leaves followed by collapse and ultimate death. In the absence of wilting, the foliage may turn yellow, and death will be gradual from the base of? the plant upwards. ' • ■ , ..

The . wilting above referred to is primarily caused by the fungi and bacteria gaining access to the stems of the plants, resulting in the disorganisation of the channels through which food and water pass upward. Entrance is first made through roots which have been injured, probably when transplanting, or by placing stakes too close to the plants. In this respect the reasons for the recommendation made in the September issue of the “Journal” for staking will be obvious. The fungi '■ above referred to are capable of living in the soil for many years, and are always ready to attack tomato plants when they are available.

Spotted Wilt

Spotted wilt, which may appear at any stage of the development of the plant, is easily distinguished by the sudden appearance of a bronze or rusty colouring on the younger top growth. It is . assumed that the disease (a virus) is transmitted by the thrips Frankiniella insularis. There is no evidence that it is transmitted <by seed or through soil; nor is it easy of transmission by the usual methods adopted for inoculating healthy plants. Plants attacked should be removed without delay. Provided the season is not too far advanced, f replacement ' may be made.

Virus

Tomato plants are liable to be affected by virus diseases, but satis-

factory preventive or remedial treatment is still undetermined.

Pests

Insect , pests which seriously affect the tomato plants can be effectively controlled - by the use of Derris as a dust or spray, arsenate of lead, and nicotine sulphate. The two last-named can safely be mixed with ■ Bordeaux mixture, but not Derris. Crop rotation should be rigidly practised in the home garden. By this means the incidence of plant disease may be modified, if not entirely prevented.

D. K. PRITCHARD,

Instructor in

Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Seasonal Don'ts

Don’t forget to pay special attention to the crops which are in season from April to October. It is important to get them established before summer droughts occur. During December sowings of swedes and parsnips may be made. It is a busy month for transplanting seedlings of crops sown in October. Among these are borecole, broccoli, cabbage (savoy and winter varieties), celery, celeriac, leeks and silver beet. ’ Don’t lose your cruciferous crops (cabbage family) through the attacks of white

butterfly or the diamond-backed moth. Derris dust very effectively destroys the grubs of these pests. As prevention is better than cure, it is advisable to apply the dust before the young plants are seen to be attacked and to repeat the application at frequent intervals so that while the egglaying insects are hovering about, the plants will be coated with the dust. The dust is quite harmless to animals and humans. Its thorough and efficient use will assure a winter supply of these valuable crops. Every gardener should possess a small blower, and the few shillings involved is well spent.

What To Do In The Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During December

VEGETABLE SECTION SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. Beans, corn, lettuce (grow without transplanting), peas, (maincrop varieties till middle of December, then delay further sowings till advised), radish, spring onions (keep well moistened), turnips. OTHER SOWINGS. Carrots (shorthorn varieties if not sown last month), swedes (for cool districts, if not sown last month), parsnips (for use in late winter). SEEDLINGS TO TRANSPLANT. Broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cabbage (Savoy, winter and red), cauliflower, celery, celeriac, late crop of tomatoes (sown October). PERENNIAL CROPS. Rhubarb.— harvesting should be discontinued towards the end of December, and the beds cultivated and dressed with farm and artificial manure so that plant food reserves, from which production will be obtained next spring, may be accumulated in the roots.

GENERAL WORK. Tie up tomatoes and remove side shoots. Use hoe frequently to destroy weeds and to conserve moisture. Apply liquid manure to salad crops. Thin out seedlings. Spray to prevent disease and use derris dust to control white butterfly. Earth up potatoes and other crops. Kumeras should receive this treatment before they begin to run. FLOWER SECTION. . Complete the planting of gladioli. Plant out dahlias and chrysanthemums. Take tip. cuttings of hydrangeas and set them in sandy loam to strike. . ' Lift narcissi and other bulbs as the foliage yellows and will break away from the bulbs without difficulty. Narcissi bulbs should be replanted promptly, but some other bulbs, notably hyacinths and irises, are better dried off completely. Tulips and narcissi, which sunscald readily, should not be exposed to the sun.