Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 63, Issue 4, 15 October 1941, Page 340

Guide for the Home Garden

Green Crops for the Winter

“This is the time when weeds are shallow rooted, Suffer them now and they’ll o’ergrow the garden, . And choke the plants, for want of husbandry —Shakespeare.

CABBAGE (Savoy, early and late), cauliflower, broccoli, borecole (Scotch kale), Brussels sprouts—these crops form the basis of supplies of green vegetables for autumn and winter use. It should not be necessary to stress the importance, apart from the necessity, of providing supplies of these vegetables; they are essential in the home garden if continuity of supplies of fresh vegetables is to be maintained. Seed Sowing The seed of any and all of these varieties may be sown from mid-Sep-tember to mid-November. If sown in late October or November, the seed should have a greater depth coverage than if sown in early spring or late autumn. From 3,000 to 5,000 ' plants of these varieties may generally be expected from 1 oz. of Seed. If . a seedling box is used to raise the plants, it should be 6 in. deep. This depth will permit full root development of the plants, but they can also be grown in an open seed-bed. Whichever method is adopted, it is better to sow the seed in rows rather than broadcast. When ready, the young plants can be taken from the seedling-box or seedbed and planted where it is intended they should remain until full grown. Particular attention to watering the seedlings is necessary, and occasional dressing of liquid manure—after a good watering— be beneficial. ]■' Soil Good crops of these varieties may be grown on light soil, but the best results are obtained in a heavy loam, rich in organic matter, and well drained. Locations which, during autumn, become heavily saturated with water are undesirable. Fertilisers Being gross feeders, these crops require a plentiful supply of plant food. Provided the land is well supplied with organic matter, less artificial fertilisers will be required; otherwise a mixture of 1 lb. of sulphate of ammonia, 3 lb. of superphosphate,- and J

lb. of sulphate of potash should be distributed along the shallow furrows where the plants are to be set. This amount of fertiliser, if purchased at bulk prices, will cost about 7d., and will be adequate for 25 yards of row. Two subsequent dressings of nitrate of soda or sulphate of ammonia may be necessary should the plants appear

to be slow in development. At any rate, one application of the former fertiliser when the plants are about half-grown will be of considerable assistance in stimulating growth. The surest indication of the need for the application of a “straight” nitrogenous fertiliser to any of the varieties under consideration is the appearance on the heavy outside foliage and on the tips of the inside leaves of a hard, bluish-purple colour. When these signs • appear, nitrate of soda — just a good pinch that can be held between the thumb and the first two fingers applied to each plant after a good watering has been given and hoed in. An improvement in the colour of the foliage should be clearly seen within a week. This direction applies particularly to cabbage and Brussels sprouts, the latter crop being greatly benefited by applications when the sprouts begin to develop. Where cruciferous crops are being sown, liming should not be neglected, and an annual dressing of agricultural lime at the rate of 4 oz. per sq. yd. should be given. In addition to liming, and as a further prevention against the development of -root, a threeyear rotation of crops should be practised. Planting Twenty-four hours before removing the seedlings the seed-bed should be

given a thorough soaking. Young plants removed for , transplanting should be dug or eased’ out. This method will conserve the whole developed root system which is so necessary for the quick establishment of the plants after setting. If the soil is inclined to be dry, the plants may be “puddled” before setting. “Puddling” consists of dipping the roots in a thick mixture of soil and water, and when this is done the plants are less likely to suffer a severe check after transplanting. It is also an advantage to cut about an inch off the tap-root in addition to cutting away the greater part of the large leaves of the plants. Immediately the young plants are set out they are likely to be attacked by aphis and the cabbage worm, the latter being the larva of the white butterfly. As an immediate protection aghinst these pests, the whole of the green growth of the young plants may be dipped before planting in a mixture made in the following proportions: 1 tablespoonful of arsensate of lead (powder). 3 tablespoons of hydrated lime. 1 gallon water. • The quantities can be reduced proportionately to meet individual requirements. ■

The plants may be set so that the centre growth is above ground-level and the soil made firm on the root. The surface around the plant should be left the shape of a saucer, which will, for a time, serve as a retainer for water, when applied, and will be an advantage if the plants are watered immediately after setting. Planting distances will vary according to variety. \ Savoy Cabbage In a home garden where cultivation is carried out entirely by hand, 14 inches apart in the row, will suffice. If more than one row is planted, 18 inches should be allowed between the rows, and the plants in each row set opposite the space between the plants in the adjoining row. For horse or mechanical cultivation, 27 inches between the rows will be necessary. Varieties recommended for planting are:—Early: Drumhead Savoy; Best of All. Late: Omega. Cauliflower and Brussels Sprouts, etc. These will require more spacelß to 20 inches between the plants, and 24 to 30 inches between the rows (ac-

cording to methods of cultivation) will be adequate for full development. To obtain ’ highest quality heads of cauliflower and broccoli it may be necessary to tie loosely together near the top the tall outside leaves of the plant as soon as the curds begin to form. By this means the bright, light will be excluded and the heads will develop that desirable and attractive whiteness. Only seeds of a quickmaturing variety of cauliflower should be sown at this period, and Phenomenal Early is recommended for November sowing. It should be ready to harvest before it is affected by hard frosts. Seed of broccoli is available which, sown in October and November, will mature in succession from May to September. Scotch kale (borecole) is a vegetable which will stand very severe frosts, and is an excellent winter green. It is particularly valuable for its calcium, iron, and iodine. There are two varieties —Tall Green and Dwarf Green. , -' ■ Brussels sprouts should be more extensively grown, especially in the farm garden, where there may be sufficient space for larger plantings. The young sprouts are a delicious change in the vegetable dietary. Regularly picked, (Continued on page 343)

they will continue to supply domestic requirements for several weeks. After-care To combat the activities of the white butterfly during the growing season, arsenical spray or dust may be used until the edible portion of the plant begins to form, after which the use of Derris, either in spray or dust form, is recommended. - J All the cabbage family require considerable quantities of water, which must be supplied if best results are

to be attained; At all time, but more particularly during the early stages of growth, the plants must never be permitted to suffer through lack of water. In dry weather aphis will be more troublesome than when moist conditions obtain. Hoeing for weed destruction and to prevent undue evaporation of moisture from the soil must be attended to (see heading to these notes) . ' —D. K. PRITCHARD, Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Seasonal Don'ts

Don’t

neglect the crops which will produce food from the garden during April to October. During November seeds of seed beans, marrows, pumpkins, swedes and plants of Brussels sprouts, celeriac and kumaras may be planted out. Crops which have been planted previously, such as maincrops of beetroot, carrots and parsnips, onions and potatoes, and the seedlings (not yet ready for transplanting) of borecole, broccoli, cabbage, cauliflower, leek, silver beet should all receive special attention.

Don’t

plant broad beans at this season. They are a cool weather crop, and, if grown during the summer, become infested with disease and pests. There are plenty of other varieties of beans which grow satisfactorily during the summer season. L

What to Do in the Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During November

VEGETABLE SECTION. SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. Beans, corn, lettuce, peas (Onward, W. F. Massey and Aiderman), radish, turnip. OTHER SOWINGS. Cucumbers, marrows, pumpkins, swedes (in cold situations). SEEDLINGS TO TRANSPLANT AND PLANTS TO SET. Brussels sprouts, cauliflower, celery (sown July-Aug.), celeriac, cucumbers, melons (before the end of the month), capsicum, egg plant, tomato, lettuce, kumaras (complete planting before the end of the month). Potato, a late planting may be made, but it is better completed last month. PERENNIAL CROPS. Asparagus, discontinue cutting at the end of this month and manure the plantation. CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month of sowing the seed.) , —Asparagus, broad beans (May), dwarf beans (Sept.,) warm districts), cauliflower (Mar.-Apr.), peas (Aug), silver beet (last of crop). Roots.— (Aug.-Sept. shorthorns), beetroot (Aug.-Sept.), new potatoes (July-Aug. earlies), turnips (Sept.). GENERAL WORK. Tie up and remove side shoots from early planted tomatoes.

Keep the surface of the ground loosened to destroy weeds and to conserve moisture; especially should this be done after a shower of rain. \ Apply liquid manure to salad crops. Thin out seedling crops. SMALL FRUITS SECTION. Cape Gooseberries. seedlings. Strawberries. Apply straw mulch, and if the ground is not very fertile, apply guano at the rate of oz. to the square yard (4 cwt. per acre) or sulphate of ammonia at 1 oz. to the square yard. The mulching should be completed before the berries set. Raspberries and Loganberries, etc. —Tie up before the crop matures. With raspberries, two wires on either side of the row with supporting wires between should be sufficient. Gooseberries. With harvesting in progress, it is permissible to prune very lightly to thin out the bushes. By this means picking is made easier. FLOWER SECTION. Plant gladioli. Plant out seedlings as spring flowering annuals are removed and the ground cleaned up. Plant out dahlias and chrysanthemums. GLASSHOUSE SECTION. The tomato glasshouse should be well ventilated to control tomato leaf mould, which, if it appears, is best controlled by the modern salicylanilide spray applied at the maker’s recommendation.