Guide for the Home Garden

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 63, Issue 3, 15 September 1941, Page 245

Guide for the Home Garden

Beans A Valuable Garden Crop

EVERYBODY has to eat. The slogan of - the home gardener should therefore be “More food from the garden,” and one of the most useful crops from . the food value point of view is the bean. As a substitute for meat, it has no rival in the garden. Uncooked haricot beans, it is estimated, contain about 21.4 per cent, by weight of protein and 52 to 120 international units of Vitamin 81. Concerning the food value of beans, Mr. H. V. Taylor, British Ministry of Agriculture, writes: “Eaten with potatoes, they form a balanced ration.” Another writer described the bean as the “iron ration par excellence.” This article deals only with snap and haricot beans, dwarf or French beans, and climbing or runner beans. Genetically, the bean can be traced to tropical, semi-tropical, and relatively cold climates. It is grown in almost all parts of the world, and supplies a valuable human food. Varieties differ in accordance with climatic conditions, and may be classified according to use. Varieties “Snap” beans is a term applied to those used when young and tender, and which “snap’' readily when an attempt is made to bend them. “Greenshell” of “Flageolets” are beans which are shelled before maturity and cooked in this condition. “Haricot” beans are the seeds of the plants which have been allowed to grow to maturity. These are stored for future use. According to habit of growth, beans may be classified as dwarf or bush, pole or ■ climbing, the former being generally considered hardier than the latter Light frosts, however, will destroy doth varieties. Commercial growers prefer the dwarf varieties, because the entire crop can be harvested in twoor at most, threepickings, and can be followed by a planting of late cabbage or cauliflower. This method of cropping might well be adopted by the home gardener. If it is desired to have an extended period during which beans may be utilised for household purposes, the climbing variety should be planted. On the other hand, a small planting of dwarfs for haricots could be grown, the product of which might be used during winter. If this

is done no beans should be removed from the. plants. Picking will prolong growth and prevent the crop maturing, with consequent disappointment. It should not be assumed that runner beans will not make good haricots; there is, indeed, little difference, if any, in their palatability or nutritional value. On an average dwarf varieties require from eight to nine weeks from sowing until the first beans will be ready for picking. Climbing varieties require from 10 to 12 weeks, but will continue to bear longer than the dwarfs. : Varieties ; Recommended Dwarf. — The Prince, Tender Green, Burpees Stringless Pod, Sydney Wonder (the last-named is specially recommended for haricots). Climbing. Emperor, . Fardenlosa, 1 Epicure, Market Wonder. T H Soil The bean can be grown successfully on many different types of soils. A good friable loam, well supplied with organic matter, suits the crop admirably, and a slightly acid condition is not a great. disadvantage, but the soil must be well drained. Cold conditions above or below the surface will result in restricted root development. Seed Sowing The most favourable position in the garden for growing the dwarf crop is one with a north-easterly aspect. The bean is not a deep-rooting plant, and to provide ample rooting facilities in the soil the seed is best sown in the bottom of trenches, which should be about four inches deep. In light soils, and' for early sowings, a covering of two inches will suffice, while in heavy soils a little less will do. Later, sowings in dry weather will necessitate deeper plantingsthree inches and two inches for light and heavy soils respectively. Subsequent filling of the trench will provide ample depth for plant stability. Sow the seeds about three inches apart, and the plants tan be thinned to stand six inches : from each other. . Fertilising The bean is not classed as a “gross” feeder, and, provided the preceding

crop was well manured, a dressing of superphosphate, at the rate of 11b. to seven yards of row will be adequate. This should be applied after growth has started, and should' be spread in a narrow, strip on each side of the row. Keep the fertiliser two inches from the plants, and lightly hoe it in immediately after it is applied. In commercial gardening this method is termed the “band” system of fertiliser application. Climbing or Runner Beans For economy of garden space in the production of runner or climbing beans the best method of growing- is on stakes, which may be Bft. long, or longer if desired. If erected as a tripod, the stakes should be pushed a few inches into the ground and set to form an equilateral triangle, 3ft. at the base, and fastened at the top with wire., . In the soil at the bottom of each stake plant half a dozen seeds, but allow- only three plants to grow, and fertilise as directed for dwarfs. To assist the plants to climb, the tendrils should be tied loosely to the stakes. Occasionally, as growth proceeds, train, the tendrils round the stakes always in the same direction as the sun travelseast to west by north. The first beans should, be removed as soon as they are ready, and regular picking must be continued. This is the only, means of ensuring continuity of production, as if early pods are allowed to mature on the plant, subsequent growth will be checked, with disastrous results to the crop. .' Home gardeners are recommended to give the climbing variety a trial. Modern varieties are prolific bearers of tender, succulent pods, and they will continue to bear until exhausted or destroyed by frost. The tripod can be placed in a corner of the garden, and will occupy very little space. They can also be grown on a piece of fowl netting on the end of a shed or along a fence. Insects and Caterpillars In the early stages of the growth of the plants, insects and caterpillars may be dealt with by spraying with arsenate of lead or nicotine sulphate. A spray mixture of the former is made by adding loz. of arsenate of lead to

three gallons of water. To be effective, the foliage must be completely covered by the liquid. Nicotine sulphate should be used as i directed by . the manufacturers. . When the pods begin to develop, Derris, either as a dust or a spray, should be applied. While the rotenone-content of Derris is toxic to these pests, it is non-poisonous to human beings, whereas arsenical sprays are likely to,leave an injurious residue on the beans, which might not be removed even by cooking. Diseases ■ Prevention, of diseases of beans is preferable to any attempt at control. The three principal’ diseases of this crop are: ’•(I), Anthracnose. ; which is recognised by the appearance on the pods of black spots which spread: quickly under humid conditions; ; (2) bacterial blight, which attacks the leaves of the

plants much in the same way as blight on potatoes; and (3) mosaic, (a virus disease), which 'is. distinguished by yellow mottling of the leaves. ■ Good cultural practices and crop

rotation are, however, of greater importance than any remedial measures which might be taken. —D. K. PRITCHARD, Instructor in Vegetable Culture, Wellington.

Setting Out Tomato Plants

FOLLOWING on the notes in the September issue of the “Journal,” the time for “safe” planting of tomatoes has almost arrived. In favourable situations planting may be done earlier, but Labour Day, as previously intimated, is a reliable guide. Thousands of tomato plants are lost annually through too early planting.

Planting When preparing for planting, try to allow each plant to' retain around the roots its full share of the soil in the seedling . box. To set the plants, drive the hoe (a short-handled one) into the soil and pull backwards, but. do not release it from the soil. Behind the

lighting in cool storage chambers is unsuitable for inspection purposes. This applies particularly to the Granny Smith variety, as the fruit may appear to be green in colour when viewed .under electric lighting, but it may be quite yellow when inspected in daylight.

What To Do In The Garden Next Month

Summary of Operations During October

VEGETABLE SECTION. SUCCESSIONAL SOWINGS. French beans'and sweet corn . (where frosts are over); lettuce, peas (a main-crop variety : such as Greenfeast or Onward), radish, spinach (round-seeded), spring onion. .- g ' OTHER SOWINGS. Marrows and pumpkins (where frosts are over); beetroot (main-crop long varieties), borecole, broccoli, cabbage (savoy, red and - winter varieties), carrots (main-crop, intermediate and long varieties); leeks, parsnip (if not sown- last month), New Zealand spinach, tomato,(fora late crop). SEEDLINGS TO TRANSPLANT AND PLANTS TO SET. Lettuce, main-crop potato (unsprouted), kumara (in very warm districts the shoots, if ready, may be planted out, otherwise set them in nursery beds where they can be protected). ' < f PERENNIAL CROPS. Asparagus. Remove shoots from two-year-old plantations for two weeks and from three-year-old plantations for four weeks, after which apply blood and bone and plenty of wood ashes. Apply nitrogenous dressing to newly-planted areas (loz. to 9ft. of row). : CROPS IN SEASON. (The month in brackets represents the month of sowing the.seed). ' Salads. —Lettuce (October till June), spring onion (March). Greens.-Asparagus, broccoli (October), broad beans (May), peas (May and early August), silver beet (October), spinach (August). ♦ > Roots in the Ground.-;Carrot (Shorthorns, August), potatoes (May in warm districts), turnip (August). , ■i . ' - ' S,- V''' GENERAL WORK. Keep the ground cultivated and. destroy weeds. Earth up early potatoes. . Give transplanted and thinned onions a dressing of nitrate of soda, loz. to 9ft. of row.

SMALL FRUITS SECTION. Cape —Transplant seedlings in frost-free districts. Strawberries.— the end of the month mulch the beds with straw. Before this the crop should receive a dressing of Peruvian guano ' (l|oz. 'to the square yard or 3 to 4cwt. per acre), or sulphate of ammonia (loz. to the square yard or 2|cwt. per acre). Raspberries, Loganberries, Apply the third and final Bordeaux spray (3-4-50), combined with arsenate of lead (21b./100 gals, water), two months after bud movement in control of cane wilt, leaf spot and bud moth. FLOWER SECTION. Trim hedges; use secateurs on broad-leaf hedges and clippers on others. Plant gladioli in succession. Attend to seedlings. Prick: into boxes , when large enough to handle, and plant out as spring annuals , are cleared away from the beds. Plant out dahlias and chrysanthemums. Lift, divide and replant gerberas. . Small pieces each with one bud and roots are the best to plant. They should be planted firm with the bud level with the ground. Take cuttings of violets and set them in fertile soil that does not dry out during the summer. ' ? V GLASSHOUSE SECTION. In the heated tomato house and in forward cool houses a liquid dressing of artificial fertiliser should be applied when the fruit'is swelling. A mixture of loz. each of nitrate of soda and sulphate of potash and loz. of superphosphate in Igal. of water is sufficient for four plants, and should be applied several days after watering. At this stage of development in dry localities a large amount of water will be required by the forward plants. If all the ground between the rows is flooded there should be no need for additional water for possibly a fortnight. Remove the lower leaves to expose the first bunch z of fruit, and so facilitate the movement of air about the plants.