The Orchard and Vineyard

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume 62, Issue 2, 15 February 1941, Page 116

The Orchard and Vineyard

Contributed by the

Horticulture Division

Orchard Notes

A S the gathering of the apple crop AS the gathering of the apple crop lx will be in full swing by the time these notes appear, it may be as well to remind readers that valuable information will be obtained by perusing the “Journal of Agriculture,” Vol. 55, Nos. 5 and 6, pages 265-273, November, and pages 338-348, December, 1937. In these “Journals” a very valuable article by Messrs. Hyde, Douglas, and Binfield was published. The article is well illustrated, and deals in a comprehensive manner with the main points in regard to picking, handling, grading, and packing of apples and pears. The article has been reproduced in leaflet form, and can be obtained by application to the officers of the Department of Agriculture. The accompanying illustrations show two well-packed cases prepared for export, Fig. 1 showing the 3-2 pack, and Fig. 2 the 3-3 pack. As previously indicated, the following points should be borne in mind by fruitgrowers:— (a) Do not pick .and pack immature fruit, as it does not appeal to the consumer and is likely to cause consumption to decrease. (b) Do not leave fruit on the tree after it has reached the full stage of maturity, as it is not likely to keep, and some varieties quickly lose their flavour. (c) Make as many pickings as are necessary to obtain the maximum flavour combined with maximum production. (d) Grade and pack and dispatch all fruit as soon as possible after it has been gathered. (e) While always endeavouring to have sufficient fruit in the packing shed to enable the work of packing to proceed on wet days, take care to

Packing the Apple Crop

avoid fruit being placed in a position in the shed where it may be overlooked for some weeks and consequently deteriorate. Hints to the Beginner Packing is really a simple process, and almost anyone can, with a little practice, become acquainted with the method of bringing the fruit to the correct height in the case. The first point is the correct method of placing each apple in the first layer, which is really the foundation of the pack. The beginner . should practice slowly with a few boxes containing each size until he has mastered the system. _ Speed will come after a time, but the aim should be to have each case neat and attractive.

The cubic capacity of the standard apple case without a bulge is 2173.5 cubic inches. The minimum bulge of half an inch adds 50 cubic inches, making a total of 2223.5 inches or one Imperial bushel. The maximum bulge of lg inches adds 150 cubic inches. The bulge should be from 1 to 1| inches above the top at the centre, but not more than half an inch at the ends. Important Points The security of the fruit depends upon the bulge, which, if properly formed, secures the snugness of the contents in all stages of transport. Important points to remember are:— (1) ’ The diameter of the apples is measured from cheek to . cheek, not from stem to eye.

(2) All apples should be placed on the cheek, producing an even surface on each layer. (3) The size of the pockets regulates the height of the fruit. (4) Correct placing of the first layer is the most important factor in securing the correct height. (5) The second and alternate layers in each pack must not rest directly on top of the fruit beneath, but in the spaces. Keep each apple over the pocket formed by the layer beneath, so that no two fruits rest directly on top of each other. (6) Slack packing results in bruised fruit and consequent reduced prices. (7) Stack the cases on their sides, not on the bulge. Spraying During, the rush of harvesting there is a tendency to neglect spraying. As was pointed out in last month’s notes, this has often proved disastrous. All the later varieties should be watched for late infection of black spot, glomerella and brown rot, and also codling moth and leaf roller caterpillar. It is usually some time during March that the spray pump can be put aside for a short time. Miscellaneous There are always a number of minor operations to perform in an orchard at all seasons of the year. Here are a few reminders:—

(1) Watch young growing grafts on trees which have been topworked. Suppress most,, if not all, of the young growth which breaks on the old stock. (2) Inspect young buds that have been inserted and loosen the ties where necessary. (3) Pinch back or remove all water shoots growing in the centre of trees from which large limbs were removed the previous winter. . e ■

(4) Mark any trees which have been infected with silver blight. (5) Gather up and destroy all diseased fruit around the trees. Remember that sanitation in the orchard is most important. (6) Give support to any heavilyladen branches so as to avoid their being broken. —L. PAYNTER, District Supervisor, Auckland.

A Further Talk with Mr. Greig About Starting a Citrus Orchard

“ AV /ELL, Mr. Smith, how have you W been getting on? Managed to get a suitable place yet?” “No. To tell you the truth, I’ve been around and seen all sorts of places, but nothing quite what I am looking for. By the way, what is your idea of the most suitable age at which to start citrus growing?” “I should say . any age up to 50, but not as a job to retire to.” “Why not, Mr. Greig, many people gave me the idea that citrus growing was a most congenial occupation after a lifetime in an office.” “So it is, if you don’t go in for it commercially and have only a few trees for a hobby. It is imperative that the trees be carefully tended and kept free from all pests and diseases which might spread to other orchards, particularly

so in commercial citrus-producing areas.” “You know, my idea in getting a place is so that my son Jack, who. is over in Egypt, will have some place on which to settle down when he comes back. I just want the groundwork done before he returns. What course could he go through before actually starting on the orchard?” “Unfortunately, Mr. Smith, there is no definite course in fruitgrowing established in this country, but I would suggest that he start as a general hand on a good mixed orchard. By that means he would get a working knowledge of orchard practices. At the same time he should endeavour to gain the general principles of horticulture. After a year or so on the orchard for experience, a similar time spent in a nursery Would be well worth while.

Not only would he then know the different varieties of fruit trees, but also the principles of budding and grafting trees and raising nursery stock. If he was interested, I would also suggest that he endeavour to get a Diploma in Horticulture which would give him a definite standing in such work.” “I didn’t know, Mr. Greig, that there was such a course available in New Zealand.” “Oh, yes, there is, although it is not yet as well known as it ought to be. By the New Zealand Institute of Horticulture Act, 1927, a definite course was laid down so that anyone desiring to obtain same could work through a course. The procedure is first of all to write the Dominion Secretary, Royal New Zealand Institute of Horticulture, P.O. Box 1237, Wellington, and be enrolled as a student. This should be

done early in the year. Then it is necessary to have the nursery approved as a suitable training centre. There are three examinations, junior, intermediate, and senior. The course takes six years, two years for each examination. The junior examination covers the general classification of plants and the life histories of common insects, etc. The intermediate and senior examinations cover the more general principles of horticulture, soils, disease recognition and control, and so on. However, that is by the way just now; tell Jack that I’ll give him a hand if he is interested. “In the meantime, about your choice of a place. Take your time and get what you want on the lines .of our previous talk. Don’t forget the area must be easily worked and easily sheltered. Semi-tropical conditions are practically essential for citrus culture. By the way, you may become interested in a partially developed orchard. If you do, always have a good look at the trees and don’t take on more than you can handle until Jack returns.” “What is doing in citrus orchards now?” “During March growers will again be applying their oil sprays, keeping ground in good tilth, and purchasing

autumn manures. Putting on the summer certified oil sprays is. very important, as these are the best months of the year to kill sucking insects, the worst of which is citrus red scale. The strength is 3 per cent., that is, 3 gallons of oil to 100 gallons of spray mixture.

Suitable cover crops to sow are blue lupins, 1| bushels per acre; oats at the same rate or mustard at 20 lbs. per acre.” ’ v —A. M. W. • GREIG, - Citriculturist, Auckland.

Cool Storage Notes Apples in Cool Storage POINTS on the treatment which has been found to be beneficial when dealing with fruit for cool storage are:— (l) The most suitable storage temperature foi varieties of apples such as Cox’s Orange and Kidd’s Orange Red is from 36 degrees to 38 degrees Fahrenheit; (2) such varieties should be stored for only short periods, and in popular sizes; (3) large fruit should not be cool stored; and (4) fruit placed in cool storage should be properly matured, but not over-ripe. Jonathan. popular, mid-season variety, Jonathans should be harvested when matured and well coloured, and placed in cool storage immediately they are packed. This variety is subject to flesh collapse and soft scald if held at flesh temperatures under 38 degrees F., and also deteriorates if held in cool storage after early July. Counts of 163 and smaller, if picked when well coloured early in March and held at a flesh temperature of 38 degrees F. and relative humidity of 85 per cent., will hold up in good condition for this period. The larger sizes are not dependable for other than short storage. Sturmer. —When grown under normal conditions, this variety is suitable for long storage. The type of soil, seasonal conditions, and the orchardist’s manurial treatment of the soil are contributing factors to the defects which develop in this variety, during cool storage. Sturmers should be placed in cool storage as soon as possible after they are harvested, and should not be too quickly reduced to the required temperature. Cool storage temperatures, when, reduced below 36 degrees, are detrimental and likely to influence the development of flesh collapse. Brighton. This variety is subject to the development of soft scald if the cool storage temperatures are reduced lower than 36 degrees F. Washington. Washington apples are not suitable for long storage, as they have a tendency to develop superficial scald. Stayman’s Winesap. This variety is subject to breakdown tendencies in cool storage, and should not be subjected to lower temperatures than indicated by the chart. Statesman.— This variety is not recommended for long storage. ' - Ballarat. delay of ten days after harvesting and before packing and placing in cool storage is beneficial in the control of external discoloration. The large sizes should not be held for long storage, as the variety is subject to the development of flesh collapse during cool storage.

Lord Wolseley. This variety should be harvested when matured, wrapped in oil wraps, and immediately placed in cool storage. Frimley Beauty and Rome Beauty. —These varieties should be matured and well coloured when harvested, and immediately placed in cool storage,

Apple Temperature Chart Note: To preserve the natural bloom of apples and prevent wilting, 85-90 per cent, relative humidity is beneficial.

Important Points for Long Storage (1) Most varieties of apples should be placed in cool storage as soon as possible after they are harvested. Varieties that give better results if held after picking before cool storage are Granny Smith and Ballarat, but care must be taken not to delay storage beyond the time recommended. (2) Cool storage temperatures should not be permitted to fluctuate more than 2 deg. above or below the optimum flesh temperature for each variety. (3) Apples and pears should be stacked in cool chambers in a method which will allow for the inspection of each line of fruit at regular intervals during storage. This precaution will do much to prevent wastage and financial loss. (4) The cool chambers should be ventilated at regular intervals to prevent the accumulation of carbon dioxide gas.

Both are subject to superficial scald, and should be kept under close observation. . . ■ McLiver’s Winesap and Dougherty. These varieties should. be harvested when matured, and immediately placed in cool storage. • .

Cleopatra and Golden Delicious.— Should be harvested when matured and immediately placed in cool storage. The large sizes should not be held for long storage. Delicious. This variety should be harvested when matured and immediately placed in cool storage. Late picking and a delay in placing Delicious in cool storage causes the fruit to become mealy and soft, and also encourages the development of fungal rots and internal discoloration during storage. When left on the trees too long under wet weather conditions, glassy

Viticulture

(Continued from the January issue.) WHICHEVER type of press is used, the pressure should be applied gradually and slowly in order to allow the juice, which cannot be compressed, to escape. Pressure applied too suddenly will have the effect of hardening the outer layers of the pomace and retaining the juice. Using a mill of the grater type in combination with a suitable hydraulic press, a ton of fruit should yield about 165 gallons of juice, or a little over three gallons to the bushel. Suitable cider mills and presses are procurable in New Zealand, and the names of the manufacturing firms and particulars can be obtained from this Department. Preparation Of the Must [ The apple juice flowing from the press-cloths is generally fairly clear, although not entirely free from visible solids. To remove these it is advisable to run the juice through a couple of hair or stainless steel sieves, the lower one having a finer mesh than the one placed immediately above it; on no account should tinned or galvanised wire sieves be used. The juice thus treated will be sufficiently clear to run directly into ordinary barrels to be fermented or to be pumped from a temporary or specially constructed receptacle beneath the press into fermenting-vats in the cellars. When sufficient juice has been conveyed into the fermenting-vessel, and before any fermentation sets in, the quantity of solids (Baume) contained in the juice should be ascertained and duly recorded on the vessel itself or in a book kept for the purpose. There are small quantities of substances other

core is liable to develop, and under such conditions this variety will not keep well in . cool storage. Granny Smith. This valuable apple requires careful treatment if it is to be held in cool storage for a long, period. The fruit should be harvested before any change in the ground colour has taken . place, but not in an immature condition. It is very susceptible to superficial scald, and during the past season considerable loss resulted from soft lenticel rots which developed early in August. Past experience has indicated that the develop-

CIDER MAKING

than sugar included in the total solids, but for practical purposes the whole can be considered as sugar. Some orchardists may possess a Baume hydrometer with a scale from 0 degrees to 50 degrees for liquids heavier than water. The same hydrometer can be used for testing the density of apple juice. Such an instrument can be procured from one of the scientific instrument dealers, together with a test-glass, for a few shillings. If purchasing a Baume specially for cider-making it is preferable to obtain one graded from 0 degrees to 20 degrees or 25 degrees. The degrees on these are further apart on the scale, and are therefore easier to read correctly.

ment of external discoloration or superficial scald can be almost completely prevented by holding the fruit after picking, in a well-ventilated stack in a cool, sheltered position on the orchard. for from ten to fifteen days. This fruit should then be wrapped in oiled wraps and immediately placed in cool storage chambers held at a temperature of 31 to 33 degrees F. The oil wraps also assist in the prevention of the development of soft lenticel rots. —A. POWELL, Cool Storage Officer, Wellington.

The Baume is graduated at 60 degrees Fahr. (15 degrees C.), and the juice to be tested should be as near as possible to that temperature. Should the temperature be above 60 degrees Fahr., add 1 degree to the degree Baume recorded for every 15 degrees Fahr, above 60; or. if below, deduct 1 degree Baume for every 15 degrees Fahr, below. Read the degrees Baume in a line with the main surface of the liquid, not at the point it has mounted to on the spindle by capillary action. The > Baume hydrometer is . an arbitrary scale as far as cider is concerned, but, as already mentioned, it is generally to be found in the hands of the orchardists or is easily procurable.

By a happy coincidence the degrees Baume (varying as a rule from 6 degrees to 9 degrees) in apple juice, if reduced by 1, will give approximately the degree of alcohol the cider will contain on complete fermentation. (Wine-makers will notice that the approximate ratio of sugar to solids in apple juice is not the same as that in grape juice). Apple juice registering 8 degrees Baume will result in a dry or hard cider containing very near to 7 per cent, of alcohol by volume, which is equal to 12.25 per cent, of proof spirit. The term “degree of alcohol” means percentage by volume. The sugar-contents of the must can be gauged more exactly by analysis, but the exact amount of alcohol that will be produced in the cider cannot be forecast exactly, as it will be rarely found that two barrels of juice, although made from the same varieties of apples, are of exactly the same composition, nor will they ferment out under similar conditions. The indications obtained by the use of the Baume hydrometer, as already explained, will be found on the analysis of the completely fermented cider to be very nearly exact —quite near enough for ordinary purposes. Should the saccharine-content of the must be insufficient to produce the alcoholic strength desired in the finished cider, then for each additional 1 degree of alcohol desired add 3f oz. of No. 1A cane-sugar to each gallon of must, dissolving it thoroughly by stir-

ring. If, on the contrary, a lighter cider is required for quick home consumption after making, water can be added to reduce the solids. Only small quantities of either sugar or water should be employed; an excess of either will alter the nature of the beverage. An addition of both sugar and water would constitute the fraud known among wine-makers as “stretching” or “sophistication.” The proportion of acidity in ripe New Zealand apples is generally suitable for making a good cider, and can be judged approximately by taste. • The exact proportion need be ascertained

only when making cider on a commercial scale, and will be dealt with later. New Zealand apples are usually low in tannin, and an addition of 2 oz. per 100 gallons is recommended before fermentation, and a further addition of 2 oz. per 100 gallons after fermentation has ceased and the cider has been racked. Classification Of Tannins There are a considerable number of different tannins, which are further divided into sub-groups. However, it is not necessary to deal with these different types of tannin, and it will be sufficient if it be clearly understood that when the term “tannin” is used in conjunction with cider-making operations it indicates one specific variety of tannin, namely, - oenotannin, “a natural tannin derived from the vine and its fruit,” or, as it is more commonly called in New Zealand, “pure grape tannin.” This tannin does not cause any harshness; on the contrary, its use under certain conditions will reduce the harshness in cider. One of the virtues of oeno-tannin is that, unlike other tannins, it ,is not decomposed by fermentation t® break up into glucose and gallic acid. As tannin is a natural ingredient of apples, it follows that in the ordinary . process of manufacture the cider will obtain a certain amount of its requirements during fermentation. However, as stated above, because of the climatic conditions ruling in New Zealand the apple itself is deficient in tannin, and the addition of this substance is necessary. Oeno-tannin is obtainable in New Zealand, and the names of those firms supplying this material are obtainable from this Department. —B. W. LINDEMAN, Vine and Wine Instructor, Auckland. (To be continued.) .