ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XVIII, Issue 5, 20 May 1919, Page 310

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

IN order to ensure reply to questions, correspondents must give their name and address, not necessarily for publication, but as a guarantee of good faith. Letters should be addressed to the Editor.

TREATMENT FOR RED-WATER IN COW

‘ Inquirer,” Murchison

One of my cows has got red-water, and I would be pleased if you would advise the best treatment for this complaint. Is it necessary to isolate the animal?

The Live-stock Division :—

The trouble you mention affecting . your cow is dietetic in origin, and consequently in no way contagious. The cow should be changed to fresh pasture, and in cases where the symptoms are observed early a drench composed of 12 oz. to 14 oz. of common salt dissolved in a pint of gruel or warm milk is usually all that is required. Where the cow has been -affected for some days, treatment should start by drenching with 1 pint of raw linseed-oil, and should be followed by administration morning and night of tonic powders, each powder consisting of carbonate of ammonia, % oz. ; , powdered nux vomica, 2 drachms ; bicarbonate of soda and powdered ginger, each 1 oz.; to be given in a pint of warm gruel or milk for three or four days. In addition to the powders, linseed or oatmeal gruel should be given as frequently as convenient, and the animal kept rugged. Frequently obstinate constipation follows the diarrhoea at first present, and this should be counteracted by drenching at intervals of a few days with a pint of raw linseedoil until the bowels act normally again.

PIG WITH SKIN TROUBLE.

“ Inquirer,” Taihape : —

I have a sow twelve months old. For the past nine months her skin has been continually breaking out in sores. A red rash comes, which irritates her and causes her to scratch until she draws blood. Her hair goes, and her skin becomes very hard and cracks. She eats well—-milk, boiled potatoes, green food, &c. Would you advise me to kill her, or is there a remedy which would enable me to fatten her and eventually make bacon of her ?

The Live-stock Division :—

From your description of the case the trouble affecting the pig seems to be eczema. Taking into account the length of time the animal has been affected and the recurrent nature of the disease, we are of opinion that the latter has become chronic. Such being the case, any treatment advised would only have a temporary effect, the trouble being sure to recur. Therefore the best thing to do appears to be to have the animal destroyed and thus save further worry.

STRIPPING OF RYE-GRASS PADDOCKS. L. Forbes, Spotswood, North Canterbury : —

Will you kindly inform me which is the best way of treating rye-grass paddocks as regards stripping ? Does stripping for seed take a lot of good out of the grass, or does the stripping knock out a large proportion which falls on the ground again, and so does very little damage ? Does it pay to strip, or is it more profitable to leave the paddock alone and let the sheep eat the herbage ?

The Agriculturist : —

As to whether or not periodical stripping of rye-grass pastures is detrimental, this will depend upon the character of the soil and upon the rainfall. If the soil is strong, or moderately so, and the rainfall satisfactory-—particularly between the time of stripping and the appearance of the first frosts- —the grass is enabled to recover readily after stripping, and as a rule no harmful effects ensue. Nevertheless it is best to refrain from stripping year after year, unless, of course, the soil is exceptionally productive. It is better to alternate the stripping and pasturing processes from year to year, thereby maintaining the vitality of the pasture grasses. A portion of the seed, of course, falls to the ground annually and some takes a hold.

■STORAGE OF SEEDS.

Field and Co., Devonport, Tasmania —

Can you give us information regarding the best method of storage of seeds ? The particular question is as to whether air should be excluded or not; for instance : (i) Seeds stored in glass bottles, say, fruit-jars with screwed-down tops; (2) stored in linen or other open-mesh bags ; (3) stored in brown-paper bags. The question has arisen as to whether some varieties of . seeds, especially of the brassica type, would develop deleterious gases, which would in a comparatively short time kill the germ. -

The Biologist : —

The main point to observe in the storage of seeds is that they are stored in as dry an atmosphere as possible. For this reason packing in airtight tin-lined boxes has become popular. Seeds packed in this manner may be kept anywhere for the normal period that the seeds preserve their vitality. ' The only gas produced by properly dry seeds is carbonic-acid gas, but not in sufficient amount to injure the seed. If seeds are stored in a moist atmosphere they lose their germination very rapidly. One of the dangers of packing seeds in airtight receptacles is that the seeds may not be properly dry and, by giving off water, produce an atmosphere that is sufficiently moist to favour rapid loss of germination.

SHELTER-TREE FOR WET LAKESIDE

W. Dean, Waipukurau : —

I will be obliged if you can recommend a suitable tree to act as a breakwind on a lakeside where the ground is wet in winter and is occasionally flooded to a depth of 1 ft. Willows and poplars are too bare in winter for the purpose. I would risk the chance of ground not flooding till trees are established.

The Horticulture Division

In such a position as you describe —namely, ground that is flooded in winter—the best tree is the alder {Alnus glutinosus). This tree is deciduous, but thrives in wet ground, and would afford a fair amount of shelter even when bare of foliage. The trees might be planted 3 ft. or 4*®?: apart, and would soon close up. A belt or grove of alders when doing well is a remarkably pretty sight, especially when loaded with catkins.

GROWING TURNIP-SEED.

“ Inquirer,” Rototuna :—

Would you please inform me the correct time to sow swede turnips with the idea of saving some seed ?

The Agriculturist : —

The best method of growing swede turnips for the purpose of saving seed is to raise them in the ordinary way and season for turnips. In the autumn or early winter outstanding roots are selected, topped somewhat, and stored in a

comparatively dry and cool place. In the following spring the selected roots are planted out in rows, and the seed eventually produced is saved during the latter part of the second season. Full information on turnip-seed production was given in the Journal for June, 1918.

TREATMENT FOR ECZEMA IN DOG.

A. Friedrick, Marton :—

Would you please advise me if anything can be done for mange on a dog. I have a valuable sheep-dog, and he is just showing signs of mange on the back. I have tried a lysol bath, but it seems to have done no good.

The Live-stock Division :—

In all probability the skin-disease affecting the dog is not mange but a form of eczema, as mange is seldom seen in this country, whereas eczema is of frequent occurrence. Give , the dog ' a laxative —1 oz. to 2 oz., of 1 castor-oil. Wash the affected part with soap ; and . warm water, then apply a little sulphur or zinc ointment. A little of the ointment should be applied twice daily. . After the first washing, no more water should be used, the part being kept as dry as possible. Keeping the animal on soft diet for a time and giving four or five drops of Fowler’s Solution in the food twice a day will greatly hasten a recovery.

LAWN INFESTED WITH PRUNELLA.

M. P., Dannevirke :—

I would like to know if by any means, other than breaking up, I could rid a lawn of. prunella, which has taken possession at the expense of the fine lawngrass sown about three years ago.

The Horticulture Division

The weed you mention, Prunella vulgaris (self-heal), could not be really eradicated from your lawn except by digging in spring and allowing it to fallow during the summer, in which case you would have to hoe frequently to destroy seedlings, or dig the plants out. If, however, ■ a skilled scytheman was to mow the grass close to the ground a lot of the weeds would be cut off. With a bare surface, a strong sharp-toothed rake could be used to tear out a lot more, and the remainder could be. dug with a fork. A dressing of superphosphate should then be given, followed by a light top-dressing of clean soil, the ground being then well rolled. It would be best to allow the grass to grow through the winter, and carry out the process mentioned in spring. If the lawn is well drained and fertilizer given ' to encourage the. growth of the grass, self-heal should not be troublesome.

FEEDING LUCERNE-HAY TO PIGS. H. Poynton, Ohau :—

Would you kindly furnish me with information on the proper way of feeding lucerne hay to pigs. . . .

The Live-stock Division :—•

At the Ruakura Farm of Instruction it was found that pigs showed no desire to eat the hay when thrown on the ground or placed in racks in the paddock, but if the lucerne was cut. and given in the green state, or chaffed when freshly cut and mixed with the other foodpollard, meals, &c.—the animals readily partook of it. You might try soaking the hay in molasses before putting it in the racks for the pigs, and once having acquired the taste of the plant they may take it without further trouble. Only fine-stemmed leafy hay should be used the coarse fibrous stems are practically of no value as a pig-food, and if eaten are liable to cause digestive trouble. ..