THE GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XV, Issue 3, 20 September 1917, Page 171

THE GARDEN.

W. H. TAYLOR,

Horticulturist.

VEGETABLE-CULTURE.

Work for October includes sowing. peas, broad beans, turnip, red beet, French and butter beans, and runner beans. Parsnips may be sown, but. if an 5 earlier lot was put in it would be best to hold the main sowing a little longer. If the winter crop of parsnips is sown too early the . roots become . large and coarse. ' Medium-sized and tender roots are best, and these can be secured by sowing early in November. Spinach may be sown between rows .of newly sown peas ; it will be out of the way before the peas require the space. Radish may be similarly sown ; in this way these crops are secured with a minimum of labour. Leek, cauliflower,' broccoli, brussels sprouts, celery, &c., advised in the last issue of 1 the Journal for sowing about the middle of September, . should be put in at once, if the work has not already been done. Tomatoes may be planted in early places, but it will be too soon for most parts.

Celery.

The main crop, of celery should be provided for by sowing seed at once. I am aware that some growers sow later, but it is done more as a matter of expediency than, because it is good practice. ' In the warmer districts celery-growing is attended with some difficulties ; hot weather is not to the ■ liking of this plant, and it refuses to grow in dry soil. These facts being known is the reason why Sowing in some cases is left till too late. Celery requires a long period of growth ; it makes its best growth after what is termed “ the turn of the days ” ■ that is, when the hours of daylight begin to. shorten, and when conditions become cooler and more moist. A considerable amount of development must, however, be secured before that time, for the plants will not make substantial growth after the days become short unless a certain stage is reached before that time. . Given this condition they will make good winter growth. In hot places it will be. useless to attempt to grow celery unless there is an ample water-supply. The seed should be sown at the time stated, the young plants being pricked out in shallow boxes, one-third filled with half-decayed stable manure. Frames with shaded glass will suit the plants till they are ready to stand outside, and they should be sprinkled with water morning and evening. If ’kept regularly moist at root, and spraying is properly

attended to, there should be no trouble with red mites or plant-lice, and proper ventilation will usually prevent attacks of rust. When placed outside, the boxes of plants should not be in a windy situation,, which would tend to dry the soil too quickly, and they must be kept well supplied . with water. The plants will stand several months in the boxes, and will strengthen if well attended to. The plants should be put out in the trenches early in February, and when planted should be thoroughly watered.. In cooler places there is comparatively little trouble, and .planting can be done at any time as the plants become ready but the last lot should be out early. in January, the plants being from the September sowing. Later-sown plants may fill a gap, but do not develop large-sized heads.

Insect Pests.

A number of specimens of celery received show that in some parts there is trouble with “ celery-rust ” and small green lice. Celery-rust may be recognized by small rust-coloured spots on the leaves. As soon as it. is detected the affected leaves should be cut off and destroyed, and the plants at once sprayed with bordeaux, 2-2-40 strength, or its equivalent of a proprietary mixture. The means of control . are preventive ; a bad attack cannot be cured. Plant-lice, and aphides can be readily destroyed by spraying with Vistolene or X.L. All fluid. Young carrots and parsnips, particularly carrots, are'liable, in warm climates to be attacked by plant-lice., They may not be detected for a time, being very small, but before long the plants look yellowish and the foliage droops. Treat as advised for celery, and the plants soon resume a normal appearance and growth. During dry summers . the larvae of the diamond-backed moth, commonly known as “ cabbage-fly/’ make the cultivation of cabbages and all the brassica family very difficult. The caterpillars eat. the leaves of the plants, and as growth is poor owing to dryness. of. soil the plants are unable to make headway. . The moth is always present, but in wet seasons it does not propagate in great numbers, and as plants grow well in a wet summer they, are able to outgrow the damage done by the caterpillars. It is evident that remedial measures must be in the direction of making the plants grow. The caterpillars can be destroyed by spraying with arsenate of lead, but it is quite useless to kill the insects unless the plants can be made to grow, and spraying with arsenate of lead does some injury to the plants. Where water is abundant there is no reason for failing to grow the crops. Tar-water as a deterrent has long proved effectual, but its application must be before the moths appear. The smell of tar is obnoxious to the moths, and they will not alight to lay their eggs, on plants treated with it. Quassia-water is used in England in the same way- is said, with good results. Now we have Vaporite, that promises to be a great boon, as it kills insects in the soil or that inhale its.vapour. The most vital parts of the. plants are the young leaves just unfolding in the centre; A little hellebore powder dusted occasionally into these hearts will save the plants by killing the caterpillars. Nitrate of soda plays an important part in fighting these pests because of the magical effect -it has on growth, and . during a dry. season it is especially beneficial. When the plants appear to require a filip give a dressing of the nitrate ; 1 oz. to the square yard is not too much in a dry season. Apply twice with an interval of three or four weeks between.

SMALL FRUITS.

Gooseberry-mildew. Judging by inquiries' made, it appears that some form of gooseberry-mildew is giving trouble in the garden. There are two distinct species of mildew that attack these plants, :the American mildew (Sphaerotheca mors-uvae) and Microsphaera grossul'ariae. The latter is most likely the form existing in this country, although ■ I have no authority to say the former does not exist ,in New Zealand. In any case it perhaps does not matter, as the treatment for both is the same. The leaves and sometimes the fruit and young shoots are attacked. The infection is recognized by whitish mealy patchesto use Mr. T. W. Kirk’s expression in Gardeners’ Leaflet No.'34—giving the bushes an appearance as if splashed with whitewash. The American mildew is very destructive ; the other is not so regarded, but it should be destroyed, especially as the infection may be the more destructive form. 'The following is the remedy advised by Massee : In spring, when the leaf-buds begin to open, spray with a solution of potassium sulphide (liver of sulphur), 1 lb. in 48 gallons of water ; . afterwards, when the leaves have expanded, spray again at increased strength, 1 lb. in 32 gallons. Winter treatment, while the bushes are dormant, is to. drench thoroughly with full-strength bordeaux. . . . , y ,