THE FARM GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XIII, Issue 2, 21 August 1916, Page 160

THE FARM GARDEN.

W. H. TAYLOR, Manager, Arataki Horticultural Station.

VEGETABLE-CULTURE.

As a matter of course, peas are sown twice during the month. When selecting varieties it is well to consider what means are available. Tall peas are the finest in pod and frequently m flavour, but it is not wise to grow them unless tall sticks can be provided. If no sticks are available, .or only short ones, it will be most profitable to grow medium-height varieties. I have found it necessary to omit names of varieties, These notes are foi all the Dominion, and seed-lists differ. It is best for growers to make their own selection.

About the middle of September is the best time to sow leeks if these are intended for winter use their proper place. If required earlier, sow at once. The seed is sown in a drill, and the plants put out later on. The method of planting will be described in due course.

' The first broccoli-seed should be sown in mid-September. This time is appropriate for sowing. all that may be wanted for the season, including early, mid-season, and late varieties. If sown at this time and given proper attention they may be expected to give their best, and the various kinds will succeed each other. It is, however, not absolutely necessary to sow all the kinds mentioned ; sowings may be continued till early in November, and- this course is often necessary where sufficient land may not be available for planting all the' kinds. The plants would require to go out by Christmas, whereas the later-sown might be planted up to the end of January. The resulting heads would . not be likely to be so good as those planted earlier.

Brussels-sprouts seed should also be sown about the middle of' the month. These sprouts require a long time to grow, and are never a success if planted late. As they are, in the opinion

of most people, the best of all winter vegetables, it is worth while to give them a good chance. In the colder parts of the Dominion, and also in hilly places where the hours of sunshine are not many, savoy-seed should also be sown ; but in warm parts and places subject to many hours of sunshine daily it is too early. Savoys are not worth eating until they ; have felt the influence of cold weather; as an early crop they are a failure.

Sowing cauliflowers should not be neglected. Select a giant kind like Metropole or Veitch's Autumn 'Giant, and the heads will be ready at Easter-time, just as peas and French beans are about past. Turnips may be sown at intervals of about eight weeks, sowing at each time just sufficient for use • during that period. During summer-time turnips quickly become tough and unfit for use. Carrots may be sown ; if, however, an early sowing, was made the main crop need not be' put in yet. Parsnips also may be sown if required early, but if they are desired for winter use only do not sow yet, as they may become overgrown. Plant Jerusalem artichokes. , -

Lettuce is now best sown in lines ; sow thinly, thin out surplus plants, and leave the others to grow. Radishes should be sown in small quantity every second or third week. I would advise a trial of a new variety, Icicle, which I find very satisfactory.

Sow tomato-seed at once. It .is best not to raise these seeds in heat ; an ordinary greenhouse or frame is sufficient. The young plants run up leggy very quickly if in heat, and are then difficult to manage. A mild hotbed is, however, a great help when the young plants are pricked off.

Pumpkins, marrows, hardy cucumbers, and melons of various sorts may be sown in boxes if desired. In an ordinary way it is not advisable ; the seed comes very freely if put in the open ground early in November.

Capsicum and chilli seed may be sown in a greenhouse. The plants are pricked off as soon as they are large enough to handle, and are finally planted out. These vegetables only succeed in the open in the hottest parts of the Dominion. They may, however, be grown in most parts if the plants are lifted before there is danger from frost, placed in pots, and finished off in a greenhouse.

SMALL FRUITS. Planting all bush fruit will, of course, be finished and established plantations put in order. Where artificial manure is to be given it should be applied at . once. For gooseberries mix together 2 parts nitrate of soda, 1 part superphosphate, and 1 part sulphate of , iron, and apply 1 lb. of the mixture to 3 square

yards of soil. The same will do for currants. Raspberries should have an addition of i part kainit, and the same will do for strawberries. Stable manure should have been applied earlier where possible. It would now be most beneficial as a mulch.

In some parts strawberries may still be planted; it does them no harm to plant when the blossoms are expanded. Late planting is best on stiff soil, as it enables the cultivator to work later on the soil, and it is consequently in better condition for young plants to i oot in.

Plant out Cape gooseberries. Cut off the top of last year's plants. They should be breaking from the base of the plants, and these shoots will make the. plants. They are usually more fruitful the • second year than the first.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN.

The flower-garden, equally with other parts of the garden, requires manure, and if it is trenched in deeply no amount that is likely to be given will do any harm : in most cases it will do good. It may, however,, do a great deal of harm if rich manure is dug into the surface soil in an indiscriminate manner. Azaleas and rhododendrons are not averse .to manure, but it should ■be given as a mulch. The roots of these plants are very fine, and are not to be disturbed with impunity, nor should rich manure come in immediate contact with them. When plants of any kind are put out care should be taken that only clean soil comes in contact with the roots. Plants rarely can make roots, in strong manure. There are exceptions, certainly ; but it is best to make no exceptions and plant all alike in clean soil. Manure may be given as a mulch in certain cases where strong feeding is essential; and, as before mentioned, if the manure is low down in the ground it will harm nothing, partly because only strong roots will reach it, and also because much of its strength will have been lost before the roots reach it. Cold loamy soil is better than manure for camellias until they become well established in the ground. It is a mistake to suppose that because a plant is not flourishing it requires manure. More often it is good soil that is wanted and good cultivation.

This is a good time to plant carnations —the best time, in fact. The position where they are to be grown should be open to the sun. They never succeed in snug corners; plenty of fresh air and sunlight is wanted. The soil should be deeply dug, and manure worked in deeply, so that the roots may not reach it until the plants become strong. The soil should be of a firm but free nature; road-sand is a good thing to add to light or stiff soils. A little superphosphate or basic slag and bonedust

may be mixed with the top —say, 2 oz. of the first or second mentioned, and the same of bonedust, per square yard. Before planting and while the surface soil is dry tread it firmly down, so firmly that it may be walked on without the boot sinking in the least. Then plant ,the young plants very firmly, letting the ball of earth* down low enough to allow the lower pair of leaves to rest on the surface. Remove footmarks when planting is finished, so that rain may freely enter the soil. After-attention will mainly be to keep the surface loose and free of weeds.

Feeding with liquid manure, or even mulching, is rarely necessary unless extra large flowers are desired. These are obtained by feeding and severely thinning the blossoms, neither of which operation is to be recommended for general utility purposes. Fed plants become gross and subject to disease and insect pests, and for the pleasure of most flower-lovers a considerable number of good flowers is better than a small number of phenomenal size. There are in any case varieties that produce naturally flowers large enough for any purpose. The plant grown without heavy feeding is usually the most thrifty.

In most places, except where late frosts occur, hardy flowerseeds may be sown in the open ground, annuals being more particularly referred to. This class of flowers is not sufficiently grown. Every one with garden space should sow as many as room can be found for. There are many very beautiful flowers to be had at a trifling cost, and many of them will drop seed and reappear, enabling the obtaining of fresh kinds at little cost, while still retaining such as are desired of those already grown.

Half-hardy subjects such as asters, &c., may be either sown in boxes or kept till early in November and then sown in the open ground, a mode of procedure that enables those who have no glass structure to get as good a show as those who have that advantage—unless, indeed, the very best use were made of it.

Dahlias should be attended to, as they will be starting growth. Divide the old tubers into pieces containing at least one bud and bed them n a nice piece 'of soil in a sheltered spot.

Gladioli should be plantedthat is, the large-flowered autumnflowering kinds. They like deep loamy soil, not overrich but not poor; a' naturally good soil is best. Plant the bulbs so that they are quite 6 in. befow the surface.

The various types of herbaceous iris* 'may be planted. The chief race is the Japanese. These require really good soil : they will not thrive in poor or dry soil. The margins of a stream are best to their liking, where the roots can find unlimited water but with their heads fully exposed to sunlight.