THE FARM GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XII, Issue 6, 20 June 1916, Page 486

THE FARM GARDEN.

W. H. TAYLOR,

Manager, Arataki Horticultural Station

vegetable-culture.

July is practically the first month of spring in many parts, so far as garden-work is concerned. Local conditions vary so much in various places that it is impossible to state a date that will be suitable for all. Local knowledge must be the guide. It may be taken as an axiom that. spring sowing and planting should commence as soon as the soil and other circumstances are suitable. An early start is an advantage, but not. unless all conditions are right, for crops that hang fire, so to speak, seldom do well. With the proviso mentioned spring operations may commence, including the planting of cabbages, cauliflowers, lettuces, and onions from the autumn sowing; also the sowing of carrot, lettuce, onion, cabbage, cauliflower, radish, mustard and cress, and cucumbers for growing in frames or houses. Peas are now to be sown in any place, and continued fortnightly sowings should be made. Parsnips may be sown if required early, but on the whole it is better to leave these till later. Plant garlic, shallots, and chives. Turnips must not be sown till August. Rhubarb may now be planted. Fuller seasonal directions respecting the above-mentioned vegetables may be found in the Journal for June of last year.

ASPARAGUS-CULTURE.

The preparatory steps which are necessary for the successful cultivation of asparagus must depend on the local conditions. It is a very strong-growing plant, and very deep-rooting. Only those who have had the unpleasant task of destroying a good bed of asparagus can form any idea of what a strong plant it is. It follows that unless the soil is in a condition to permit of deep rooting the plant cannot do really well; but, considering what a long-lived plant it is, and comparing the results to be attained, the labour involved in the preparation of the soil is, after all, not a great matter.

There may, however, be practically no preparation required. If the ’ soil is a deep alluvial deposit, and, as is usual in such cases, the subsoil is sand and gravel, no trenching will be needed. It is neither necessary nor is it advisable in such cases to trench manure in deeply ; it will wash down with rain. The soil being free, the roots can get down to find moisture and other food. •If the subsoil is of any other character trenching is necessary, and

the deeper the better—no one is likely to trench too deep. It is useless to trench unless something is put between every layer to keep the soil open. Stable or farmyard manure is the best possible material to use, and the quantity should be liberal; it cannot be overdone; though it is possible to give more than is actually necessary, the overplus would not be in any way prejudicial to the plants. For keeping heavy soil open any or all of the following materials are useful: Burnt clay, road-sand, sea or river sand, remains of rubbish-fires, vegetable mould of any kind, old mortar rubbish from buildings, turf from the top of pastures. Sea-sand with broken shells in it should be avoided, or at least it should not be used in the top spit, as the sharp shell cuts the young grass. The most suitable soil for asparagus is fairly strong loam overlying gravel. The same class of loam on clay is perhaps as good, but would require effectual drainage. Lighter soil would be equally good if in a place naturally moist. The class of soil first described is best for most places. It may be as well to say here that plantations of asparagus are often made for commercial purposes on quite different lines to those outlined above. The land in such cases is prepared by the plough only; the beds are of an ephemeral character, and do not come within the scope of this article, which refers to smaller operations and private gardens. It was formerly the practice to plant asparagus on raised beds. The practice has been so generally abandoned that it does not seem to me advisable to describe that method of planting. The plants are now put out on the flat, a method that is better than raised beds, inasmuch as it gives the roots a wider and freer run. Before proceeding to plant the ultimate aim should be determined. There are three things to choose between —namely, good heads of ordinary type, giant heads, and giant heads blanched. Blanched heads are secured by a covering of soil. These are most appreciated on the Continent of Europe, and are required by canningfactories. Heads are made green by allowing them to make their growth in the air clear of the soil; the lower portion of such heads are blanched. Green heads are said to have more flavour than white, and are preferred by most British people.

Good heads are grown by planting in rows 30 in. apart, the plants being 15 in. asunder in the rows. Giant heads are secured by planting at greater distances apart—rows 4 ft. apart, plants at least 3 ft. asunder. The distances last mentioned may appear extravagant, but this is not really so in the end. After a few years the plants will practically fill the space, the roots become

very strong and the heads correspondingly large. Blanched heads are secured by moulding up the rows in the two last-mentioned beds.

Beds may be established either by sowing seeds in a nursebed the year before planting, to secure the necessary plants; by purchasing plants to save a year; or by sowing seed where the plants are to grow. The latter method would involve some extra labour in tending the young plants during the first season, but would be more expeditious than raising plants to be transplanted, as the transplanting checks the plants to some extent. Lacking plants, the wisest plan would be to purchase them.

Planting should be done in spring just as the plants are beginning to grow. It is dangerous to plant before the roots are active; there is naturally some damage to the roots in lifting, and if the plants remain dormant long after planting the damaged roots are likely to die back.

To plant, throw out a trench with a long-handled shovel. The trench should be 4 about 6 in. deep. Along the bottom of the trench rake up a little ridge 3 in. . high. Set the plants on the ridge as on a saddle, with the roots outspread on each side ; then throw in the soil. This method is for beds treated in either way described. When planting be sure to press the soil ‘ down very firmly on the roots before completely covering them with the soil. The crowns should be covered to a depth of •' about 3 in. If long blanched heads are required the rows should be 4 ft. apart, as blanching is done by throwing a ridge of soil from the intervals over the rows of plants. The ridges are broken down in winter before pruning is done, and thrown up again before growth begins in spring. Though planting will not be done for some months, it is important that the soil be prepared well in advance, so that it may settle down and be in good working-order for planting.

Stable manure is the most valuable fertilizer or plant-food, and should be used as freely as possible. Bonedust is a valuable and lasting fertilizer; apply 2 lb. per rod at the same time as stable manure is applied —that is, when preparing the soil for new beds or immediately after cutting down an established bed. After growth has well started give a dressing of common salt —2 lb. per rod —or the same quantity of sulphate of ammonia, or 1 lb. of nitrate of soda. The same may be repeated some weeks later during showery weather.

No heads should be cut till the third year from planting,. Cutting heads from an established bed continues for about ten weeks. After that everything that grows should be left to mature, as the next crop will be in proportion to the amount of growth so matured.

THE FLOWER-GARDEN. Planting of all descriptions of trees and shrubs, also the division and planting of herbaceous plants, may now be done. All the primrose- family may be planted; old clumps are the better for being broken up and planted as separate crowns. Violas may be divided in a similar manner. Seedlings of every description of hardy plants that have been raised under glass may, after the necessary hardening-off, be planted out. Seedling pansies should be put out in rich ground; planted at this time they usually give the best flowers of the season. Perhaps the most important work in the flower-garden at this season is rose-pruning. This , subject was fully dealt with in the Journal for the same period last year. Briefly put, whatever class the rose belongs to, all worn wood should be cut out, also thin twiggy wood and immature growth. Hybrid perpetuals and hybrid teas should be pruned to form a bush with an open centre, and the branches should not be crowded. Leading branches . should be shortened according to strength, usually to about 6 in., leaving a few inches more in the case of strong growers. Shorten side shoots to two or three buds. Climbing-roses of most classes are best treated by a frequent renewal of the main rods. The long, gross rods that they are accustomed to make should be laid in almost entire, merely removing the immature tips. These rods will throw out sprays of flowers from every joint. The following season the resulting shoots, or laterals as they are termed, should be spurred back to two buds, and every shoot should flower. The next winter these rods should be cut out.

Wicheriana roses, of which Dorothy Perkins is one, should be thinned out, and the laterals shortened back somewhat. This work is best done at the end of summer, but it may be carried out now.