THE APIARY.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XII, Issue 6, 20 June 1916, Page 478

THE APIARY.

E. A. EARP,

Apiary Instructor.

MOVING BEES. If it is desired to move the hives to a new location the work should be carried out at the present season while the bees are dormant. Great losses are caused by beekeepers postponing moving until the spring. It is well to remember that in our climate, from one end of the Dominion to the other, the dormant condition lasts but a very short time, and full advantage should be taken of it, more especially when the bees are transferred only a short distance. In the latter case there will be an inevitable loss of bees unless

the weather-conditions are absolutely wintry. The risk in moving bees longer distances is not of course as great, because when they are moved from their old landmarks they will not desert their hives until they have taken an inventory of their new surroundings. However, in this there is another danger to be feared —namely, that by overheating the colonies a condition known as “ scalded brood ” may be produced, and result in the destruction of thousands of embryo bees. The wise beekeeper will therefore invariably choose the depth of winter for moving his bees either long or short distances.

DRY MATS

During the winter months it is well to examine the mats at intervals in order to note their condition, more especially after heavy rain. Where mats are damp they should be removed and dry ones substituted. A supply of dry mats should always be kept on hand. In order to leave the colony undisturbed, carefully lift one end of the cover and examine the mat. If it has to be removed, see that the smoker is ready in case the bees are troublesome, but on no account use smoke unless the bees have to be driven down. Remove the wet mat as quickly as possible, replace it with the dry one, and cover the hive at once.

LEAKY COVERS.

If the mats are wet there must be a reason for it, in which case look to the covers. It is surprising how little attention is paid to covers. It is such a simple matter to make roofs waterproof that there is no excuse for any beekeeper exposing his bees to the danger of dampness in winter. More bees are lost through neglect in this direction than from any other cause during the cold weather, with the exception perhaps of actual starvation. Bees must be kept dry. Where the roofs are cracked do not attempt to tinker with them, but cover them entirely with some good waterproof material. Zinc or galvanized iron is the ideal covering, and some up-to-date beekeepers use sheet lead, the latter serving the double purpose of keeping the roofs dry, whilst its additional weight resists the onslaught of winter gales. However, if cost is a consideration, the thinner makes of rubberoid will serve the purpose admirably, and last for years with careful treatment.

PERMANENT SHELTER.

This is the season when it is most evident to the observant beekeeper that bees require plenty of shelter from high winds. The planting of shelter-hedges to protect the apiary should now be taken

in hand. Experience proves that bees in sheltered positions thrive far better than those in exposed situations. If the hives are protected the bees can take exercise every sunny day during the winter months, and this exercise is very essential to their wellbeing, as it is only in flight that bees can properly rid themselves of their excreta. Where sufficient shelter is not provided numbers of bees are lost through being beaten down by cold winds and rendered unable to return to their hives. Apart from the benefit to the bees, the beekeeper will find his work much more congenial when he himself is protected by permanent shelter. Shelter-hedges should be grown to a height of 8 ft. and no higher, and this will afford ample shelter for a large apiary. Of . the many quick-growing hedges giant privet and tagasaste are perhaps the best. These trees have been tested throughout the Dominion with good results. In the South yellow barberry holds pride of place as a hedge for beekeepers, because, in addition to affording ample shelter, it yields an abundance of pollen and nectar in the early spring. Whatever trees are used, plant with the idea of forming a thick hedge, and do not set out to form a plantation. If tagasaste or giant privet are' planted, see that they are protected from stock.

LIQUEFYING GRANULATED HONEY.

That honeys granulate and become solid in a certain time is well known to most beekeepers. This phenomenon has given rise to much ' speculation among consumers as to purity, and consequently producers of pat honey have had to educate the public, who formerly were suspicious that granulated honey was mixed with sugar. The crystallization of honey may be taken as a test for purity. Practically all the honey produced in the Dominion granulates, and the beekeeper may find it necessary to liquefy his honey when bottling. Many beekeepers are unable to procure small vessels in the extracting season, or their time is so much taken up attending to the bees that the honey is run off into larger vessels for the time being. Where the work of putting up the honey in retail packages has been postponed it may now be done. Liquefying is an important part of the producer’s work, and must be carried out with great care, as neglect in this direction will lead to a poor article being put on the market and an injury to his trade. It must be understood that honeys brought to high temperatures become darker in colour and lose their flavour; besides, the higher alcohols which give honey its aroma are driven off. When honey is heated to 170° to 180 0 F. and over, decomposition of certain sugars sets in, and as a result an inferior article is produced. Such honey is

often seen for sale on the local markets, and is certain to deter the average person from eating honey altogether. On no account should honey be liquefied by the direct application of heat, and it is extremely important that the temperature should not exceed 140° F. If it is necessary to liquefy bulk honey, this' may be done by immersing the vessel in water which is brought gradually to 150°. At this temperature the honey will melt. Clover honey readily liquefies at about 140°. The process of liquefaction cannot be hurried, and if the mass of honey does not melt quickly, then it must be allowed to remain in the water from three to four hours. On no account apply greater heat. Too much stress cannot be placed on this point, as on it depends future sales and repeat orders. An ordinary washing-boiler is an excellent vessel to use where granulated honey is to' be melted, but be sure that the tins are firmly soldered before immersing them. In order that the containers . may not come in contact with the boiler it is advisable to place one or two small boards on the bottom of the copper. Place the tin to be heated on the boards, and exercise care in filling the boiler with water. When this has been done heat may be gently applied until the mass is dissolved. Liquefying honey is a tedious process at the best of times, but if • good results are to be obtained the necessary amount of time must be spent on the operation. - • ,