ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume XII, Issue 4, 20 April 1916, Page 327

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

1N every instance a question to which an answer is desired in these columns must be accompanied by the full name and the postal address of the inquirer, not necessarily for publication, but as a guarantee of good’faith. The question should be written on one side of the paper only. PALISADE-WORM IN HORSE. H. Ashworth, Kohekohe : I have ahorse that is troubled with a little red worm, about fin. long. He passes a few every day. He is scoury, weak, and thin. Are these worms only in the digestive tract ? What treatment would you advise ? The horse is a light draught, about twelve years old. The Live-stock Division : Your horse appears to be infested by the worm known as Sclerostomum equinium, or palisade-worm. It is a very dangerous parasite to horses. The embryos sometimes are found to invade the larger blood-vessels, giving rise to thrombosis and frequently setting up attacks of colic. The adult worms inhabit the intestines and are very difficult to get rid of. Horses infested in this manner are constantly infecting the paddocks with the eggs of these worms passed out in the dung, and thus reinfection of the animal is constantly taking place by means of the food and water-supply. Affected animals should be moved to different pastures, and old pastures should be ploughed and cropped before being laid down in grass again. Efficient drainage, and top-dressing with lime, are also remedies which suggest themselves. Individual treatment of cases is best carried out by the administration on a fasting stomach of i dram of thymol dissolved in a pint of linseed-oil, for horses, or 13 grains of thymol for foals. Good quality of foodstuffs in ample quantity must be given to animals suffering from the effect of parasitism in any form. Improvement in the condition of the subject is more important than medicinal remedies. GRASSING DRAINED PEAT SWAMP. “ Settler,” Dargaville : Will you kindly advise me of a suitable mixture of grasses and suitable manure to surface-sow on drained peat swamp ? Scrub and rushes have been burnt off, and the swamp is sufficiently consolidated to carry young cattle or sheep, but will not stand horses, so that it is impossible yet to cultivate it. The Fields Division : If you have sufficiently drained the land top-dress it with at least 1 ton of ground burnt lime per acre. As manure, after satisfactory drainage, you could use the following (all quantities being per acre) : Basic slag, 3 cwt. (or Egyptian basic phosphate, 3 cwt., or basic superphosphate, 3 cwt.), and 2 cwt. to 4 cwt. kainit (or 1 cwt. muriate of potash, or 3 cwt. to 5 cwt. wood-ashes). The following grass mixture should give you satisfactory results after such treatment: Timothy, 4 lb. ; meadow-foxtail, 6 lb.; cocksfoot, 7 lb. ; Italian rye, 5 lb.; redtop, 1 lb.; alsike, 21b.; cow-grass, 2 lb. ; Lotus major, 1 lb. : total, 28 lb. per acre. Sow only clean seed of good vitality.

SODA-BLUESTONE SPRAYING-COMPOUND. W. H. Thompson, Reefton: — Regarding the substitution of washing-soda for roche-lime in Bordeaux mixture, as recommended by the Department for spraying potatoes, can this same compound (bluestone and washing-soda) be applied in winter to fruit-trees for black-spot, peach leaf-curl, and as a fungicide generally ? The Horticulture Division , The mixture prepared with washing-soda may/be used in all cases of fruittree spraying for which Bordeaux mixture is used, but the lime is the most popular. In using the soda-bluestone mixture for summer spraying it is advisable to test carefully with litmus in order to as far as possible avoid scorching, which is the greatest drawback to the use of this mixture. VENTILATION OF DAIRY. A. D., Ouruhia —< . ' ■ Would you kindly let me know the best means for ventilating a small dairy ? We get wind and dust very badly. The dairy is about 7 ft. square, under tankstand. I had one in the same position before, but had to stop up all ventilation on account of dust. The Dairy Division — Good ventilation can be obtained by constructing two air-shafts in opposite walls of the building, between the weatherboards and inside lining. The one for the intake of air should be 8 in. by 4 in. and, say, 4 ft. 6 in. in height, with an opening at the base to the outside wall and a similar opening for the inside at the top. The other shaft should extend from near the floor to the top of the roof, and have the bottom opening inside the building, and the one at the top to the outside air. To prevent dust passing into the dairy the inner opening on the shorter shaft may be covered with a double thickness of buttercloth. Hinged covers may also be fitted to regulate the draught. All joints in the air-vents should be made tight in order to prevent counter-draughts. WIND TROUBLE IN HORSE. “Horse,” Henderson: — We have a mare that developed a cold, with a thick whitish discharge from the nose running constantly, also a violent cough. Sometimes the cough seemed to almost shake her to pieces. One day blood was mixed with the nasal discharge. We ( gave her a spell and applied a steam bath to the head. She is now apparently all right, has regained her condition and somewhat of her former spirits, but seems to have lost her wind-powers. What is the best remedy to use in the circumstances ? ' Live-stock Division:—• The severe catarrhal trouble from which your mare has suffered seems to have affected her constitutionally, and she may now have contracted that form of unsoundness known as “ broken wind.” We would recommend you to give a little linseed mash' —-not more than 1 lb. per day—-in the feed, and try the effect of the following mixture, giving two wineglassfuls in the food or drinking-water three times daily: Extract of belladona 2| drams, bicarbonate of soda 2|oz., Fowler’s solution of arsenic 5 oz., water up to 1 pint. INFECTION THROUGH FOAL’S NAVEL. “ Subscriber,” Mayfield:— Some time ago a foal a month old became lame in one of its hind fetlocks. At the end of two days it became lame in the opposite front fetlock also, and appeared to be in pain. I bathed its legs, which seemed to relieve it, but on the

fourth morning its joints were swollen. I gave it. castor-oil, but it grew worse during the day and died that night. From what I can gather it died from a disease contracted through the navel. If that is so, is there a cure or preventive ? The Live-stock Division : Your opinion that infection had proceeded by way of the navel is probably quite correct. Wherever trouble of this nature is known to occur it is a wise plan to paint the navels of newly foals with a little tincture of iodine. This simple procedure is .of great value in preventing infection from source in question. LIMING GUM LAND. “ Inquirer,” Albany—I have a paddock of gum land which I intend to plough this autumn, allow to fallow till next autumn, and then put in grass. I intend to give it a dressing of lime. Would it be advisable to put the lime on this winter, or next autumn immediately before sowing the grass-seed ? The Fields Division It would be preferable to put half the lime on the ploughing this coming early winter and disk in somewhat, and the other half next spring, disking in well and tine-harrowing. The soil should be in good shape from the point of view of lime-improvement by next autumn when you work up the ground by ploughing, disking, tine-harrowing, and rolling for the grass-seed sowing. Use 15 cwt. ground burnt lime or 1 ton ground limestone per acre at each liming. HEDGE FOR ROAD-LINE. “ Subscriber,” Auckland:— Will you be good enough to tell me what would be a good suitable hedge to plant along a wire fence on a main road ? I want the hedge to cover the wire eventually. The soil is loose with a good subsoil. The situation is exposed to rather strong winds, but the hedge would be sheltered by a belt of lopantha. Pittosporum crassifolium has been suggested. The Horticulture Division : Pittosporum crassifolium would no doubt suit your purpose very well. It makes a capital hedge when planted closelynot more than 18 in. apartand well and regularly cut. Barberry, eleagnus, or broad-leaf privet should also be suitable. ■ CROPPING QUESTIONS. W. H. J. H., Otaki4 1. I have a paddock of about 12 acres which has for a number of years been down in grass. Last year the paddock was ploughed and sown with oats, a fair crop resulting. I wish to put it down again in grass. Would it be advisable to put it in rape, and after feeding this off with sheep to lay it down in grass ? The soil is light loam with a tendency to get dry at the latter end of summer.' I shall be glad to have advice regarding manuring and the varieties to sow. 2. I wish to grow tares for seed. • When is the best time to sow, and is it advisable to feed off the first growth and let the second go to seed ? The Fields Division : 1. The soil being light loam and inclined to become dry in late summer, it would probably not be strong enough to grow a crop of rape before seeding to grass. We would advise your sowing the grass mixture in the spring with a lightish seeding (broadcast) of soft turnipssay, Imperial Green Globe variety.' As an alternative you could sow the grass with 1 to if bushels per acre of Black Hulless barley and feed off the latter periodically, but not closely, as the young grass may be injured by close feeding. As manure use i|cwt. basic superphosphate and 1J cwt. blood-and-bone manure per acre. The following grass mixture should

suit your soil-conditions : Cocksfoot, 6 lb. ; Italian rye, 4 lb. ; perennial rye, 5 lb. ; crested, dogstail, 2 lb. ; Poa trivialis, 3 lb. ; hard fescue, 2 lb. ; cow-grass, 2 lb. ; white clover, ijlb. ; Lotus corniculatus |lb. : total, 261 b. per acre. 2. Tares or vetches are best sown in the spring (October) and harvested in the early autumn. It would be preferable not to feed off before allowing to go for seed, but, if done, feed off fairly early and lightly, and then let the crop mature. ' • MORTALITY AMONG SUCKING-PIGS. X.Y., Avondale : Can you advise me regarding a sickness that is taking off my sucking-pigs ? They appear quite healthy and doing well until seized with a kind of fit, which passes off in a few minutes, leaving them twitching or. shivering. In the interval between the fits they frequently run about, but appear not to know where they are. Some become weak in the back, and lose use of legs and die. The largest and strongest are taken first; the small ones seem healthy and still live. The Live-stock Division : This complaint in your young pigs is due to an alteration in the sow’s milk, brought about probably through digestive troubles. The remedy would be to treat the sow by administering a dose of 5 oz. or 6 oz. of castor-oil. An alteration in the sow’s feeding would also be beneficial. TREATMENT OF FOOT-ROT. “ Novice,” Tuatapere, Southland : On account of wet season and soft grass my sheep are very much troubled with foot-rot; even some of the lambs are affected. I have tried hand dressing with bluestone and Stockholm tar, also bluestone liquid in troughs, with little result. Any advice would be very much appreciated. The Live-stock Division : As you appear able to treat the cases of foot-rot individually, we would suggest that the affected sheep and lambs have their feet trimmed in the usual manner, and that tincture of iodine be applied with a stiff brush. This treatment should be carried out twice a week. DESTROYING FAIRY-RINGS. W. Charman, Lower Manaia, Masterton : I have a piece of land of good quality, although fairly dry, which is infected with a fungus growing in rings of about 6 ft. in diameter. . The fungus seems to absorb every particle of moisture within the ring and the grass dies right out. Could you suggest any top-dressing likely to be beneficial in eradicating the pest ? The Fields Division : The only direct me+hod of destroying fairy-rings that has proved successful —though costly for agricultural purposes —is to water the ground with ferrous sulphate solution, 8 lb. dissolved in 50 gallons of water being applied to each 60 square yards. The application is repeated about four times at intervals of one week, and then ground burnt lime is applied, at the rate of 1 ton per acre. RECLAIMING MANGROVE SWAMPS. “ Inquirer," Russell: — .Could you tell me whether it is possible to successfully drain and grass mangrove swamps which are covered with a growth of small and large mangrovetrees, and which are always flooded from 6 in. to 24 in. with the rising tide ? The intention is to construct a dyke just above low-water mark, right through the mangroves, enclosing everything, with flood-gates. at intervals to prevent the

rising tide from getting in, and to let out surface water : also to construct a drain all round the foothills to carry away hill-water. Would this be a suitable method ? If it can be done, at what length of time after draining would it be possible to grass it ? What grasses would be suitable ? Would it be necessary to break it up, or would surface sowing do ? The flooded area is composed of very sticky, deep mud, and the part bordering the hills looks to be composed of decayed vegetable matter covered for the most part with rushes. The Fields Division:— : ■ As to whether successful drainage and grassing of mangrove swamps can be effected is primarily an engineering problem, and this would be required to be determined on the spot by an expert. Once it is drained, however, the dried mud could be treated with gypsum to remove brackishness to a large extent, and grasses suited to brackish marshes could be planted out from nurseries established on special portions of the areas. The following grasses should' serve their purpose Salt reed-grass (Spavtina polystachya), rush salt-grass (Spartina juncefit)y. salt marsh-grass (Spartina str'i.cta), found thriving from Pennsylvania southwards in ..North America; j rough marsh-grass (Spartina glabra), found thriving from New England southwards in North America; smooth marsh-grass (Spartina alterniflora) , black-grass (Juncus bulbosus), goose-grass (Glyceria maritima). Seed of these grasses does'not appear to be stocked by American seed firms.. .You may, however, obtain them through a firm such as Thorburn and Co., 33 Barclay Street, New York, or, failing this, through the Bureau of Plant Industry, United States Department of Agriculture, Washington, D.C. The seed, of course would have to be specially gathered. ' ... . - . . . .' ' ■ ...... . - 1 : .J..f TREATING SCALD IN SHEEP. ; -■’ l < “ Subscriber,” Okaiawa : ' ’’’ I have a number of sheep badly affected with scald in the feet. The foot, itself is quite sound, but the trouble is between the claws." I would be obliged if you could suggest a cure. The Live-stock Division : Keep the space between the claws clean, and wash away any accumulated matter. Then get a stiff paint-brush and apply tincture of iodine, 1 part to 10 parts ofwater. If a very large number of sheep are affected a. trough will have to be constructed to contain a 4-per-cent. solution of creolin, and the sheep must then be driven through this. ' . . 2 . . .- ■ ' ' SETTING OF LEMON-FRUIT. W. E. Riddle, Foxton: — • What is the cause of fruit not setting on lemon-trees ? The trees in question are young and look well in their foliage; the blooms come and appear to set, ; then shortly after fall off. ■' q The Horticulture Division : Unsuitable climatic conditions are probably the cause of your lemons failing to set fruit. '■ Lemons when grown under more or less severe weather-conditions rarely set fruit satisfactorily, particularly when young. ■- When, however, such conditions are not excessive, an improvement may be -expected as the trees mature, provided the variety is a reliable one. ' SHELTER-BELT. Engineer,” Mangere: — . . I have a farm at Mangere running right down to the beach (Manukau Harbour). It is absolutely open to rail- westerly winds, ( consequently very cold in winter. Will you kindly advise me the best shelter-trees to plant, and what' time to put them in ? ■ , ■ r' • ( ' .f ■ . • The Horticulture-Division : , -- - : . We would advise you to plant Lombardy poplar at a distance of about 2 ft... apart. .Use either good stout cuttings or rooted, plants. Prepare the soil well before planting, and keep it worked around the plants for a. few. seasons.. Planting may be done at any time during the dormant season.