ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume VIII, Issue 1, 20 January 1914, Page 100

ANSWERS TO CORRESPONDENTS.

CORRESPONDENTS are requested, when desiring information through the Journal, in regard to disease in animals and plants, to forward, where possible, affected specimens, in order to facilitate a correct diagnosis of the trouble and to ensure the best advice. In stating a question the most complete descriptive details should be furnished. Correspondents desiring information in regard to manurial treatment of soil are requested to fill in and forward the prescribed form “ Application for Advice as to Manurial Treatment of Soil” — obtainable from any office of the Department in the Dominion. In every instance a question to which an answer is desired in these columns must be accompanied by the full name of the inquirer, not -necessarily for publication, but as a guarantee of good faith. ' Dairy Cows. “ Agri,” Auckland : ■ What breed of cows is the best for buttermaking ? The Dairy-produce Division : ' • . In answer to the foregoing inquiry it cannot be said that there is any best breed of dairy cows for buttermaking, for all the well-known breeds contain animals which prove to be equally profitable. In selecting a breed the farmer should be guided to some extent by the class of land he owns. For example, it would not be wise to use some of the heavy breeds, such as the Holstein stock, on a farm that was too rough and hilly. Some of the lighter animals would be more suitable under such conditions. For a dairyman to be successful he must have an ample supply of feed and also a good water-supply, and having these he can safely become the owner of any of the recognized breeds of dairy stock, such as the Holstein, Jersey, Ayrshire, or even a good crossbred herd of cattle, but invariably he should use a purebred sire of a well-known milking strain.

: Buttermaking, “ Buttercup,” Norwood, Cave : I shall be obliged if you could give me a few hints about putting butter into cool store for the winter. lam making about 40 lb. per week of separator butter. If put up in pats, in paper, and stored, would it be likely to come out in marketable condition ? . • Also, what is the cause of streaks in butter ? The Dairy-produce Division : The usual custom is to commence the storage of butter, for winter use not earlier than the beginning of February, but much depends upon the length of time it is desired to hold the produce before sending it to the market. First-class butter will remain in a sound condition, if properly frozen, from four to six months or even longer. It may be put up in bulk or in pats, but in either case the boxes should be lined with a double thickness of parchment paper. As to whether or not the butter turns out in good condition depends wholly on its quality when made and the temperature at which it is held in the freezing-chamber. The latter should not be above io°. Streaks in butter are caused through improper mixing of the salt when it is being worked into the butter. You are probably aware also that long exposure to air will discolour the outside of butter. A bulletin entitled “ Buttermaking on the Farm ” has been posted to you.

Cheesemaking

‘‘ Five-year Colonist,” Rangiora :

I have been particularly interested in the articles by Miss Davies dealing with cheesemaking, expecially that in the June number dealing with fancy cheeses. I should much like to see an article dealing with these more in detail. There was a cheese very popular in London some years ago, but I have not seen it here. It was known as a " cream cheese,” and I -fancy came from Cambridgeshire. Would it be practicable for a couple, elderly, but still active, wishing to retire from town life and fond of country pursuits, but without any practical knowledge of cheesemaking, to make a living by buying milk and making small cheeses such as the above named and others without any large outlay of capital ? Also, if the idea is feasible but practical experience quite necessary, what is the best way of obtaining it, and how long would it take ? V: The Dairy-produce Division : -3 In reply to the above we are sending a copy of the bulletin by Miss Davies on “ Soft-cheese making,” in which particulars are given as to the manufacture of cream cheese. . * . . . While it would not be impossible for an elderly active couple to take up the manufacture of soft and fancy cheese, it has to be remembered that the success of the work depends mainly on turning out a uniform and high-class article, and without some previous experience in cheesemaking it would be very difficult to do this. Of course, much also depends upon the maker. Owing to the fact that there is not yet a constant demand in New Zealand for this class of cheese, and that it will be some time before the consuming public are likely to call for it, we would not recommend private individuals to purchase milk for the making of these cheese. Those who take up this sideline in dairying must be prepared-to do a considerable amount of advertising and spend a little money in working up an established connection. . Grass-grub? Mr. Cyril T. White, The Peaks, Canterbury : Please give me advice as to the best means of treating a grass-paddock infested with grass-grub. The land is fairly light, and has been sown down only two years, but the grub has destroyed half of it. The land is capable of growing rape, turnips, and oats. I may say that adjoining paddocks do not appear to be affected. The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : This pest is rather partial to light, dry lands, and grass land is the natural breeding-place. No effective means are known to avoid or stop attack on grass or clover paddocks except ploughing up, which is best done about the beginning of March. A careful system of crop rotations, with thorough cultivation, is about the best means of avoiding injury by this pest. The applications of chemicals to the soil to kill the grub has so far not proved effective. Dairy-farming. “ Beginner,” Opotiki ’ I intend milking eighty to a hundred cows next season, and would like your advice as to what you think best for me to grow to maintain good returns until the end of the milking-period. The grass seems to give out about February and March, so I would need to have a stand-by from then on. How many acres would I need to. plough ? What dates would I sow ? What would you advise me to sow, and what amount of seed ? The land here is fairly good, but short of lime. " Do any of the Government farms breed Ayrshire cows? Could I procure a. bull from them ? . Do any of the Government . farms breed pigs for sale ?

The Fields and Experimental Farms Division :

- During the dry months in summer, maize is looked upon as the best of all fodders, but it will not stand frost. This might be overcome by sowing, say, 1 bushel of oats with maize, which will act as a shelter from frost. Maize, 1 bushel, and oats, 1 bushel, per acre, sown broadcast with grain-drill at the end of October, would be fit for cutting in January. Oats or barley and tares give a large amount of feed summer or wintersay, 10 acres sown in November would be fit for feeding off in January. This would provide a large amount of valuable feed right through the winter, and if a dividing-fence were run through the centre, one half could be fed off while the other part was recovering. The quantity to sow is about 2J bushels of oats, or the same of barley with 1 bushel of tares. If it be decided to grow maize, it is recommended that 2 acres be sown in the middle of October, 3 acres in November, and 1 acre in December. This will allow of continuous feeding-off.

Maize should be cut before the flowering stage and carted out to stock. Two bushels of maize per acre should be sown, with 2 cwt. or 3 cwt. of superphosphate. ' In the dry months of summer there is no better milk-producer than maize. At the Weraroa Experimental Farm up to 75 tons per acre have been grown. - In the current issue of the Journal there is an advertisement regarding Ayrshire bulls and Berkshire pigs for sale at the Moumahaki Experimental Farm. 'v Rats Destroying Chaff. " Ignorant/’ Waikiekie : Is it true that rats will not destroy chaff if it is left in a heap on the floor ?' The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : Heaping of . chaff on a floor does not prevent rats from eating and destroying any grains of oats or wheat which may be in the chaff. When chaff or grain is bagged and stacked it affords shelter to the vermin, which are protected against enemies, and thus allowed every opportunity to breed and spread. They also cause great loss by damaging the bags and destroying or fouling the grain. The object, therefore, of heaping grain or chaff on floors is to prevent the .breeding of vermin and the destruction of the bags, &c. When the grain is heaped it is found that very little is actually destroyed. This plan is generally adopted in large grain-stores. Treatment of Smut in Grain. " Subscriber," Ashburton : • Will you please explain the hot-water treatment for the destruction of loose smut in infected grain ? The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : This treatment has been tested at the Canterbury Agricultural College, Lincoln. Dr. F. W. Hilgendorf, of that institution, supplies the following information concerning it : “ The treatment is directed against the loose smut with the interval resting stage, this form being much more difficult to kill than that in which the spores rest on the exterior of the grain from harvest to seed-time. The treatment consists in soaking the wheat for five to seven hours in water at 63° to 72 0 F., draining, and then steeping for one minute in water at 129 2 0 F. (54 0 centigrade). The seed is then dried, and sown in a plot isolated from other wheat. The treatment should kill all smut on or in the seed, and if no smut-spores blow on to the resultant crop, its seed will be free from smut-spores, and therefore cannot need pickling. In steeping the seed in hot water I use trays made of perforated zinc and do 20 lb. at a time. At this rate one does 2 bushels per hour. “ The treatment is apparently a complete, success. Two years ago our Bordier wheat showed exactly 5 per cent, of smutted heads. This year I have been.unable to find a single smutted head on 70 acres of wheat the parent seed of which was hot-watered, while on 30 acres not so treated smut is about as plentiful as usual.”

Stack Ensilage

“ Enquirer,” Rock Hill, Weber :

' Could you give me some information as to the making of stack ensilage ? I have a good paddock of good grass, but owing to so much wet weather I am afraid I cannot make hay of it. Could you assist me by giving me the proper heat, &c., and the way to do same ? The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : The crop should be cut when in the most succulent stage, or ten days before it- is ready to cut for hay. At this time of the year it is necessary to clear the land almost as fast as it is cut, in order to prevent the material getting too dry. For a paddock of io acres set out the foundation nearly square. If it is a heavy crop make the stack 24 ft. by 18 ft. Collect enough material to raise the stack to a height of 8 ft., and let it remain until the temperature reaches 130°. This is ascertained by letting a dairy thermometer attached to a piece of string down an inch pipe within 3 ft. of the bottom. Put the thermometer in perpendicularly. When the stack has reached the necessary temperature stacking may be proceeded with by adding from 3 ft. to 6 ft. daily according to the heat. If the temperature rises quickly, add a larger quantity ; if it is slow .in rising, add less, endeavouring to prevent the temperature rising above 135 0 F. On completion, cover the stack with fine earth to a depth of 24 in. without delay. When building, a sprinkling of salt should be added to every other layer about 2 lb. of salt to each ton of green material. The middle of the stack should be kept only barely level with the sides—the reverse method to that adopted in building a haystack. Special attention should be given to this so that the stack will settle down evenly. Lucerne. Subscriber,” Heathcote, Christchurch: — I have a paddock, 3 acres, now in fallow, and I thought of. putting it in lucerne for green feed and hay. It is deep silty soil, and has a good fall. Would you kindly tell me the best .time to plant, the best kind of seed, and where to purchase same free from noxious weeds ? What kind of top-dressing manure should be used ? The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : Lucerne can be sown in spring when the soil is sufficiently warm, or in early autumn. Marlborough-grown seed - gives good results. Clean seed can be obtained from most reputable seedsmen in Christchurch. It has been found that lucerne will grow in most places in Canterbury without being top-dressed with manure. If it is considered advisable to apply manure, this had better be provided in the preceding crop. If desired to apply at the time of sowing, basic slag 3 cwt. and kainit 1 cwt. per acre would be suitable. . Cultivation of Various Crops. M. G. D., Waikouaiti : • •1. Would you let me know the proper time to cut peas sown with oats in the autumn for May feed in the following winter ? 2. Also what is the proper time to cut Cape barley for same ? This was sown for spring feed, but did not come away in time. . 3. Could I get a second crop of Cape barley by manuring it ? Would it be too early to sow Cape barley and tares in January for late autumn feed ? The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : 1. When oats and peas are grown as a dual crop the harvesting should be at the time the oats are in milk. For an early soiling-crop, when it reaches a height of 2 ft., daily cuttings can be made and fed to stock as a green forage. . ■ ', ; '2? For autumn feed," the best time to sow Cape barley is March, and if it be a normal season it should be ready for feeding off in May. ■ If care be taken to feed

off before it reaches the jointing stage, it can be stocked three and sometimes four times before being exhausted. For cutting for soiling purposes, this should be done the first time before it comes into the shot leaf. Manuring is best done beforejor at time of sowing the seed. 3. For Cape barley and tares sow early in March.

A Sheep-farming Query “ Waverley,” Wanganui :

Would you kindly say whether a lamb born in March is a lamb or a hogget in. September ?

The Live-stock and Meat Division

' There is no fixed time in deciding the' question as to when a lamb becomesa “ teg ”or hogget.” It depends upon the custom of the country or district of that country, and also as to whether the lambs are bred for fattening or for running on. Lambs are not dropped in this country in March, so you are evidently referring to the Old Country. In many districts in England a lamb is termed a “ lamb ” until it is weaned, then it is called a “ teg ” or “ hogg ” until the first shearing. After that the term “ one-shear ”or “ shearling ”is used. Cause of Death of Calves. “ Matamata,” Walton:— Some of my calves—aged two to eight monthsfed on skim-milk only aredying. The man who feeds them wants to know why they die. The Live-stock and Meat Division : • Your question gives no information upon which we could give a definite reply. There is nothing in clean skim-milk to kill calves, though it certainly does not contain everything necessary for the proper growth and development of the system, combined with the maintenance of sound health. We would point out that we cannot furnish satisfactory replies to queries unless full and detailed particulars be given. ' :f i . b ~ Drying-off Dairy Cows. Mr- Alfred Troup, Otarere : Which of the two ways is the proper way to dry off a cow at the. end of the seasonwhether to stop milking her every other day and turn her out, or to strip her clean for a while after the season— as to have your cows come in sound the following season ? The Live-stock and Meat Division —■ We do not see much difference in your two ways. A combination of both of them is desirable, but it will depend upon the amount of milk you get from the individual cow, some cows being much easier to dry off than others. Gradually reduce the periods of milking until you get hardly anything ; • then you can let her go for a couple of days, and, if nothing can be got then, you can let her go altogether. If you get a certain amount of secretion, bring her up in another two or three days’ time, and then see. If you have reason to believe that contagious mammitis is prevalent in your herd, it is a good practice to inject half a cupful of 4-per-cent. lukewarm solution of boracic acid into each teat after the final milking, and leave it in. p : Ailment of Calf. ' “ Ignorant,” Waikiekie : I had a calf about three weeks old when still on new milk started to scour very badly, passing a red matter mixed with blood, and at the same time straining very badly. • At last the straining became so bad that I shot the calf. Could you tell me what was wrong with it ?

The Live-stock and Meat Division :

The scouring may have been due to something in connection with the milk or the method of feeding. It is more likely, however, that it was due to the introduction of micro-organisms into the system through the navel either at the ; time of or soon after birth. The so-called “ joint evil ” in foals is caused in the same way, and it is not uncommon to find joint lesions in these cases of scouring in calves if they live long enough. Medicinal treatment is of no use in these cases. You can, however, to a great extent prevent it by seeing that the calves as soon as they are born are put into a clean shed in which fresh straw has been placed. It is by contact of the newly ruptured umbilical cord with dirty litter that the microorganisms gain entrance. Clean out and thoroughly disinfect the shed and burn any litter that can be burnt, digging the remainder into the ground where calves cannot get access. Provide clean straw for the pen, and paint the navel of every calf with ordinary tincture of iodine as soon as possible after birth. ■ - • ro . ' ' ' ■ - Silver-blight. Mr. A. S. Dunnage, Patoka : . t Would you kindly let me know if there, is any cure for silver-blight ? The Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : Silver-blight is a difficult disease to control, but we have found the application to the soil, round the feeding-roots of the affected trees, of from 4 lb. to 6 lb.—■ according to the size of trees either sulphate of ammonia or sulphate of iron in the early spring has proved effective as a remedy in some instances. Growers in the Stoke district, Nelson, have found that spraying affected trees when in foliage with a strong limewash, about as thick, in fact, as whitewash, apparently effective. This method is also well worth trying. . ■ • > . Apple-blight.—Gumming of Fruit-trees. Mr. F. Smith, Wakatu Post-office, Nelson':'— ■ 1G - ' - ■ What is the name of the blight on • the apple-leaves enclosed in my letter, and what shall I spray with ? What is the cause of gum on cherry-trees, and' does it kill them ? • One of my cherry-trees died. What will remedy the gumming ? . The Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : The yellowish marks on the apples are not due to disease, but are a physiological defect which is generally noticeable on young trees. As the trees grow older this defect will, no doubt, disappear. Gumming of fruit-trees is considered an indication of conditions unfavourable to the thrifty growth of the trees, such as an excess of water or of drouth in the soil. If the gumming is excessive it will seriously interfere with the welfare of the trees. When there is an outbreak of gum it is desirable cleanly to remove all the unhealthy bark, cutting clean to sound bark and covering the wound with paint or wax to exclude the air. , . • ' ' . ■ T' Growing Strawberries. e-. “ Straws,” Ramarama : . Kindly inform me if you think it best, when growing a bed of strawberries, say, for four or five years, to cut the blossoms oft the first year, thus preventing them from fruiting ? The Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : If the strawberries are well rooted and putting on a good growth the first year there is no necessity to nip the blossoms off. : > ; It is advisable to renew the beds after the third year, as the plants generally become exhausted in that time. Good strong runners from the l old plants should be planted to take their place. . - ■ . t! . . <

Spraying Fruit-trees and Tomato-plants “ Ascot,” Otaki :—

In spraying my fruit-trees I put about a large heaped-up dessert-spoonful of arsenate of lead in a kerosene-tin full of water, and spray once a month or six weeks. Do Ido rightly ? Would the above spray be any good for tomato-plants ? If so, how often should they be sprayed ?

The Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division :

Arsenate of lead is used at the rate of i|lb. to 50 gallons of water for the control of insect pests such as codlin-moth/caterpillars, &c. In spraying for control of codlin-moth the spray should be applied, if necessary, at intervals of fifteen to seventeen days until three weeks before the fruit is ready for gathering. - Arsenate of lead will destroy the caterpillar which attacks tomatoes. Arsenate of lead is purely an insecticide, and is of no use in controlling fungoid disease, for which the Bordeaux mixture is recommended. Blight on Apple-trees and Gooseberry-bushes. “ Subscriber," Cheviot : The enclosed twigs are cut from an apple-tree, I think a Ribstone Pippin. Could you please inform me what the disease is that is affecting them, what is the best remedy for it, and when should it be applied ? The disease first became apparent about; the time the fruit ■ began to set, and it has been spreading ever since, and now practically the whole tree is more or less affected. ■ I also have some gooseberry-bushes which are badly infested with very small orange-coloured mites about the size of small bird-lice. They are very active, and are continuously running about on the leaves. The bushes have a sickly appearance, the lower leaves being quite yellow. What are the mites, and what is the best way to get rid of them ? The Director of the Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : The apple-trees are attacked by powdery mildew, which attacks the young growth early in the spring. The trees should be sprayed as early as possible with the 4-5-50 formula of the Bordeaux mixture, and a second time if necessary after an interval of from fifteen to seventeen days. It is not possible to identify the mites on the gooseberry-bushes without specimens. If specimens were forwarded the mites could be identified. Kerosene emulsion would probably control them, but I can reply more positively after receipt of specimens. ■ ■ Diseases of Fruit-trees. Mr. Charles Judson, Little River : Would you kindly inform me what kind of disease these leaves are affected by, and what mixture to use, and what time to spray them ? Is it necessary to use a spray ? They are small trees, just planted last year. The peach-leaves (No. 1) curl up and blister red. The nectarines, plums, and pears seem to get eaten away. The Director of the Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : The leaves were very small, and reached me in bad order. They are attacked by shot-hole fungus, and also by beetles. To control the former, spray at once with the 4-5-50 formula of the Bordeaux mixture. For the latter, spray . with arsenate of lead as soon as possible. The peach-leaf is attacked by peach-curl. To control this disease the trees should be sprayed with the 10-10-40 formula of the Bordeaux mixture in the autumn when all leaves have fallen, and again in the early spring when the buds . are beginning to swell. ■ To apply this spray in summer when trees are in leaf would damage the foliage of peach-trees, although the summer strength is quite safe on apples, pears, &c. ■ ' ,

Orchard Work. —Ruakura Farm of Instruction. “ New Chum,” Colac Bay, Southland : ■ • 1. Kindly inform me what variety of apples, plums, and cherries would stand the very changeable weather of Southland, and suit best the bush soil ? 2. Is io ft. square too little space to plant four young trees, and will it be enough to plant all the trees in the orchard ? 3. Is clover a nuisance in an orchard ? What variety would you advise growing in an orchard to suit bees ? 4. Can I get lodgings— that is, bed and meals at the Ruakura Experimental Farm ? What would it cost for the whole season to study apiary and orchard work, together with lodgings ? The Director of the Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : 1.. I would advise you to communicate with the Orchard Instructor for your district (Mr. W. T. Goodwin, Department of Agriculture, &c., Dunedin), who is no doubt acquainted with the nature of your land and conditions generally. He will thus be in a better position to advise what varieties of fruit-trees are best suited for your locality. 2. The distance apart recommended for fruit-trees planted in an orchard is from 17 ft. to 20 ft. on the square. 10 ft. apart would no doubt be sufficient for three or four trees planted in a -garden. 3. The laying-down of clover or grass permanently in an orchard is not recommended, as better results are obtained by constant cultivation of the ground between the trees.' Of course, clover could be sown as a cover crop, and then ploughed under in the winter or early spring. The extra nitrogen and humus thus added to the soil would greatly benefit the trees. White clover produces the best honey. 4. It is very doubtful if accommodation can be secured at the Ruakura Farm of Instruction. It would be advisable for you to communicate direct with the Manager, Ruakura Farm of Instruction, Hamilton, Waikato, who will be able to give you full particulars. Black-spot on Pears and Apples. Mr. J. B. Haxton, Te Kauwhata :• — Has 1 lb. of bluestone to 25 gallons of water been tried for black-spot on pears and apples as a winter wash in New Zealand ? If so, with' what results ? The Orchards, Gardens, and Apairies Division : The spray referred to above has been tested by the Department, but the results obtained were not at all satisfactory. The Bordeaux mixture has proved the most reliable for control of black-spot under New Zealand conditions, provided, of course, the directions set out in the departmental spray leaflet are carefully adhered to, and fresh lime is used. Beekeeping. “ Tyro ” : 1. When examining a hive to cut out the queen-cells should the bees be brushed off the comb ? They get savage if they are, yet it is (to me) hard to detect the cells when there are numerous bees crawling over and some clustered stationary upon the comb. 2. Should one take the honey in the brood-space, or let the bees have it and only take that from the super at this time of the year ? 3. One of my hives (on which I had to put a super to give more room), no matter when I go to if, hums like a steam-engine, and is very strong. Another not so strong is practically quiet and seems dead, as though the bees had flown. Yet upon opening it I find the. bees working and eight out of ten frames well filled, and yet there is no continued hum, just a.subdued rustling of the bees. Does the: queen make the hum, or is it the strength’of the colony that does it ?

The Director of Orchards, Gardens, and Apaines Division : 1. It is quite unnecessary to brush the bees off the comb, but should too many be adhering a Sharp perpendicular shake inside the hive will dislodge as many as required. . - 2. It is customary at this period to remove any quantity of honey from the brood-chamber to. the super, and replace with clean empty combs, thus giving the. queen plently of room to lay her eggs. 3. The humming referred to is a sign of strength and prosperity within the hive. All strong colonies do this when nectar-gathering. . The hive with the subdued rustling will probably commence humming on gaining greater ’ strength. It is thought that the noise has something to do with ripening the nectar .and evaporating the surplus moisture. Subsoiling by Explosives. *' Enthusiast,” Lotus Bay, Auckland : Have the attempts to subsoil land at explosives been a success ? What depth were the holes, what bore, what distance apart, and what weight and variety of explosive ? . . ■ . The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : Subsoiling with explosives has not been attempted at Weraroa. A trial with explosives for draining purposes was undertaken. Holes were put down 15 ft. apart, with a 2 in. auger, to a depth of 5 ft. ; an 8 oz. charge was put in each hole, with the result that the ground was broken up for several feet around and also to the bottom. Weed for Identification. Mr. C. D. Husband, Raglan : . .. . Will you kindly tell me the name of the enclosed weed, and whether it is detrimental to stock? . >H A; .. The Biologist:— If The specimen submitted is tarweed [Bart si a viscosa), an extremely common weed in many pastures where the drainage is poor. It has been noted that topdressing with phosphatic manures has a decided effect in reducing this weed. Plant for Identification. West Coast,” Whangape: — I enclose herewith a plant for identification. lam told that it is a very bad noxious weed, and that it is prevalent in many places in the North of Auckland district. I found it growing upon my section. It was surrounded by many seedlings. I suppose that the wind has blown the seed from an adjoining Native holding, where there are a great many plants. . The Biologist: — ' The specimen forwarded is identified as the marguerite daisy (Chrysanthemum maximum). It is regularly grown in gardens under the name of the Shasta daisy,” and is naturalized in odd localities in both Islands. Unlike its near relative, the ox-eye daisy, it does not appear to be a serious weed. Blight on Peach-trees. Mr. S. Whitburn, Ngaruawahia : ' Will you kindly inform me of the cause of several of my peach-trees withering away, as, some kind of blight seems have affected the fruit ? The peach-exudes

a kind of gum, turning quite yellow and falling off the trees. In the early part ■of flowering nothing could be better than the show of fruit, but now not a peach on most of the trees' is coming to profit. Perhaps if you cannot go into these particulars a few of those leaflets which you refer to in the Journal of Agriculture may help me to save the trees from completely failing. The Director of the Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division : It is not easy to tell from your description. If possible, please send some specimens of both branches and fruit. It will afford me pleasure to make a micros scopic examination and let you know the result. Swarm of Bees. Mr. Edgar S. Clarke, Clarewood, Dunedin For three or four years now a swarm of bees have taken possession of the end wall of our wooden church. They get in under the boarding outside and make their nest between that and the lining. We have had the boards off two years, and worked them out, and thought we were rid of them, but the next season they came back again, and are here again this year. Can you please advise us what to do to drive them off ? The Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division : The only way to get rid of the bees permanently would be to take some of the boards off the side of the building and remove all the comb 1 hey have built and the honey they have gathered. Thoroughly sprinkle the place with carbolic, and keep the bees away when doing the work by having crude carbolic acid on the fuel in the bee-smoker. When replacing the boards be very careful to leave no aperture where the bees could again obtain access. -■- - ■ rnb ?d;i* ■ ■ Good Book on the Horse, v “ Nulli Secundus,” Waikawa Valley, Southland : Please inform me where I can obtain a good book on the horse one which thoroughly deals with the subject. Price no object. The Live-stock and Meat Division. We would advise you to purchase the work entitled " The Horse in Health and Disease,” by Professor J. Wortley Axe, M.R.C.V.S. This was published a few years ago, in nine well-bound illustrated volumes, at a price of £5. We think the work, which is thoroughly up to date, could now. be purchased from Messrs. Whitcombe and Tombs, or other large booksellers, at a cost of Tg 10s.

Poisoning Wild Pigs.

Mr. T. Ramsay, Hyde, Central Otago : I notice in your issue of the 20th December—in replying to a query by " Iki Iki,” Waerenga— state that pigs poisoned by aresnic or phosphorus would be a danger to sheep-dogs. It is a common practice’ amongst rabbiters to feed their dogs on rabbits that have been poisoned by phosphorus, and. provided care is taken to take the inside out of the rabbit, there is no danger, as it is the stomach that contains the poison, and if a dog eats the stomach ,of a phosphorus-poisoned rabbit it is likely to prove fatal. Wild pigs were plentiful in this district until poisoning rabbits with phosphorized grain commenced, then they speedily disappeared. Probably they ate the grain laid for rabbits, and, as the rabbiters were in the habit of leaving the skinned carcases behind, they would also eat these, stomachs included. Ido not think pigs poisoned by phosphorus would constitute any danger to dogs, as they would not be likely to get at the stomach.

The Live-stock and Meat Division > — • • ' ■ • ’; *, ! If the stomach and intestines were carefully removed from the pigs, as in the case of the rabbits, phosphorus would do no harm to the dogs. We do not see what would prevent dogs getting at the stomachs of the dead pigs otherwise. Pennyroyal. “ Enquirer,” Waverley, Wanganui : Is it true that pennyroyal causes abortion amongst cows ? The Live-stock and Meat Division : We have no evidence that it does. Killing l Gorse. " Enquirer,” Waverley, Wanganui : Is grubbing the most, or the only, efficient method of killing gorse ? The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : It is found that grubbing is really the most efficient method. There are a number of fairly effective weed-destroyers which are applied in the form of spraying, but these only destroy the top growth and the roots are seldom, if ever, affected. Grubbing has then to be resorted to to get these out, so that the land may be cultivated. '' . Apricot-disease. " Novice,” Renwick, Marlborough I am sending under separate cover some specimens of fruit which have fallen from an apricot-tree in my garden. The tree is not overloaded. Last season it had a much larger crop, but the fruit did not drop off as they have done this season. The tree is well sheltered, and is about 14 ft. from the house. The downpipe from the roof discharges near the tree, and the water all goes towards the tree. Do you think it is getting too much water ? There has been rain practically every day for the last three weeks. I notice that the majority of the fallen fruit are better developed on one side, the other side geneially being flat or hollow. Do you think that is the work of some kind of blight or fungus ? The Orchards, Gardens, and Apiaries Division : ; The apricot specimens on arrival here were not in a suitable condition for a satisfactory examination. It appears, however, that during the wet spring experienced the ground round the tree has been kept too damp by the water discharged from the downpipe.

Lucerne. New Chum,” Okania, Matamata : How old should lucerne be before you save the seed for planting again ? Is it possible to transplant the lucerne-plant, say, into places where they have missed ? When would be the best time to transplant, if possible ? The Fields and Experimental Farms Division : • 1. Plants should be two years old before suitable seed can be saved for sowing. 2. It is possible to transplant young seedlings, but this course would not be recommended. There would be more probability of success by resowing the bare patches.