THE FARM GARDEN.

New Zealand Journal of Agriculture, Volume V, Issue 1, 15 July 1912, Page 58

THE FARM GARDEN.

W. H. Taylor.

Vegetable Garden

Before this article is published spring work will be well started in most places. I have before said that there should never be undue haste in getting seed into the ground when the latter is not in a fit state to receive it, while there should be reasonable prospect that conditions will remain suitable for growth. “ Make haste slowly ”is very good advice in this connection. Seed or plants put out in sour ground seldom thrive. Remember, a single swallow does not make the spring, nor do a few fine days. . The exact time to sow or plant can be determined only by local experience. My own experience has abundantly proved this. On the slopes about Wellington City the first week in July is a busy time with seed-sowing. My onion-seed was always in the ground on the first fine day of the month, and that was necessary, because shadows from hills made the hours of sunshine less in number than at the place where I now live. Here at Weraroa 1 must keep my seed till August, and sow at a time when my former crops would be 6 in. high. Early sowing in damp situations often results in a lagging growth, until increasing length of days and rising temperature come to the rescue. Now, lagging growth is not a good thing, and it is seldom desirable results follow. Vegetable crops should be made to grow all the time. Do not sow or .plant till you can be reasonably sure that growth will go on uninterruptedly. Many crops may be easily ruined by being stunted in their early growth.

The practice, which some have, of raising seeds in boxes or pots, is one fraught with much danger, although not necessarily so ; but it frequently leads to loss. Cauliflower-seed, for instance, raised in a box often produces stunted plants. This because they are left there too long. This is very likely to happen, with the result that after being put out the plants usually button prematurely. The remedy would have been to prick the plants out as soon as they were fit to handle. Leeks also are bad things to raise in boxes ; those .so raised more often than not bolt to seed about the end of summer. It is. seldom wise to raise seeds in this way ; better wait till the soil is fit, and sow them in. the open ground, which is their natural place. These remarks are intended to show the need of the .exercise of observation

and intelligence, and to emphasize the fact that, when artificial means are employed, an additional degree of skill is also necessary. I have for many years been against employing artificial means when the same results can be obtained without them. For that reason I do not approve raising marrows, pumpkin, and kindred seeds in boxes under glass. There may be no harm in doing it, but it is labour wasted; the seed comes freely in the open at the right time, and fruits come nearly always as early. I do not believe it right to sow tomato-seed so early as most folks sow it. Where frosts are probable, as here,, until the beginning of November, it is useless to put plants out before the first week of that month. By sowing in mid-August the plants, will be ready and in good condition when wanted. Early planting, where weather is almost sure to be inclement, is a sure way to getlate fruit, because plants, if not lost, become enfeebled.

Routine Work. — Celery-seed should now be sown in boxes to secureearly crops. In places where it is not convenient or desirable to grow successive crops, it will be best to delay the sowing for a month, and arrange to get the crop for winter use, when it is of greater value than in summer 'or autumn. If successive crops are to be grown one variety selected should be White Plume; this is valuable forsummer use only : much cold rain, or a little frost, crumples it up. For the main crops there are white and red varieties; both should, be grown, for the sake of variety. Most people agree that the red sort is best in flavour ; the red is, of course, blanched out, or, at most, only a tinge of red on ivory white is shown when the leaves areblanched. Celeriac, or turnip-rooted celery, is seldom grown. This is. a pity, for it makes a most excellent dish when stewed, and as a flavouring for soup, &c., it is very palatable. Cultivation is the same as for celery in the initial stages. Sow seed now. A small quantity of carrot-seed of a short-horn variety should be got in at once. Lettuce and radish- seed may be sown, and plants of the former put out- Early in August sow a little turnip-seed. Turnips remain fit for table use but a very short time during summer; therefore sow but little at a time. For the earliest sowing I like Early Milan, which is a variety that makes very little top. The bulbs form in perfect shape at once ; they look at first like radishes, and have been mistaken for them. They are fit for use when quite small. As soon as the first crop is properly fit for use, sow again; this time and hereafter sow Snowball. They take from seven’ to eight weeks to come into use from date of sowing, and such an interval should therefore be allowed between each sowing during summer. The breadth sown is sufficient to last that time, which is as long as they remain fit for use. I find, if the ground is fairly supplied with humus, got by digging in the remains of crops, weeds, &c., a sprinkle of superphosphate

and bonemeal, or basic slag, is sufficient manure for turnips. The same manures also answer for carrots; these should never be sown in soil freshly manured with stable dung, as it causes them to fork and form side roots. - ’ / V t

Peas are now to be sown at intervals of two weeks. What are the best varieties perhaps no one is entitled to say, as probably no one has grown more than a limited number of all the varieties extant. I would say, do not grow Stratagem. I discarded that variety fifteen years ago because of its thick skin. Carter’s Daisy I ' consider much overrated; . I never found it fill the pods well. Daybreak, Carter’s Springtide, English Wonder, Sherwood have all proved good, both as first and second earlies, while the best main crop I at present know is Sutton’s Dwarf Defiance. When selecting peas, never choose a variety that grows more than 36 in. high, •" unless you can provide them with stakes; for, if the haulm is long and has to lie on the ground, it not only requires an inordinate amount of ground, but half the crop is lost, because smothered by ; the haulm. Dwarf Defiance requires about 33 in. between the rows, the previous-mentioned sorts 30 in. r ■ ' -- '■ •••

Asparagus: If previous advice was taken, the bed has been treated to a " coat of stable manure. At this time all the rough stuff remaining should be raked offit wifi do to dig in elsewhere. If the surface is at all close it should be lightly forked over; give a dressing of salt, 4 oz. per square yard. This is sufficient to kill slugs and seedling weeds. Or a dressing of nitrate of soda, half above quantity, may be given if weeds are not troublesome ; " the nitrate will kill slugs, but not weeds. It is a powerful fertilizer for asparagus. If there are any wood ashes from rubbish fires available, a good coat of them may be given with considerable advantage. Mix a 6 in. potful of bonemeal with each barrow-load. > If ashes are not available perhaps sand may be. Though inferior to ashes, as it - has no manurial properties, it is good for keeping the soil open and clean. But be particularly careful not to use sand that is too sharp, or that contains broken shell visible to the eye ; by doing so you incur the danger of destroying the bed altogether. This happened to myself once in my young days. When the tops were allowed to grow up and waved in the wind, the shelly sand applied silted down round the stems; these being tender below ground, the shell cut them. The bed was totally destroyed ; scarcely a plant remained alive.

Rhubarb of the summer kinds may be planted in rich ground. Clumps with from one to three good crowns are- better than larger pieces. When rhubarb has been long undisturbed. it usually gets poor, because when a large number of crowns are crowded together they get weak. For this reason it requires lifting and splitting up

every few. years. The market-grower plan, which may be considered the best,' because most profitable, is not to pull anything from : the crop the first -year after planting ; then pull properly for two yeats; then lift ; and divide. Planting is so arranged that another bed is ready for use while the last planted is rested.

Cucumbers in frames: Growing cucumbers in frames is a quite simple matter, and with a little care a supply can be secured that will make it well worth while where cucumbers are appreciated; more .•particularly . so, as the necessary hotbed can be utilized for other purposes for a time, such as striking cuttings and raising seed. In the first place it is important that the manure be of a proper kind, and properly prepared. It is also wise to make two operations of itviz., a small temporary bed to raise the plants, and the larger one to grow them on. The manure should be clean, with plenty of straw. A couple of dray-loads will make the small - bed. The . manure should be turned over several times before making up the bed, and all knots of straw shaken out. Long preparation is not necessary for the small bed, as it is * not wanted long. If the small bed can be made up in a plant-house it is a great advantage. The bed should not be made up until the rankness is 1 out of the manure and the straw has taken on a brown colour, showing fermentation is in progress. Cover the manure with a few inches of coal ashes or light soil to absorb rank steam. The seeds are to be sown, in pots. I prefer three in a 5 in. to one in a 3 in. pot, but either will do. I like fibry loam without admixture to sow in, as one point towards getting a sturdy plant. Plunge the pots of soil in the bed the day before putting in the seed, so as to warm the. soil. Press the seed in to the soil in an upright position, thin end downward. The seed should be up in-three or four days. Care must now be taken not to get the plants drawn; give them all the light they can bear, - and largely this will be in proportion to what they are started with. Success can only be attained with stocky, robust plants; they, cannot be this if much shaded. When the roots have run through the soil, the plants will be ready for a shift. If three in a pot, separate them and pot each in a good 3 in. pot, to be shifted again when ready to a 5 in. one; or, if in a 3 in. to begin with, shift straight to a 5 in. Always warm . the ,soil by laying it on the bed before potting off. In the meantime get manure ready for the final bed. It will take from ten ( to twelve loads to make a bed for a two-light frame. It should take a fortnight to prepare the manure, shaking it over twice a week. When making, the bed, beat it down well with a fork as each layer is put on, but do not tread it down. Make the sides a foot higher than the middle, for the weight of the frame will send it down. When the plants are ready to put out, .> place about a bushel of turfy loam under

the centre of each light, level the top, and plant two plants on each heap. Further details of treatment will be given in next article.

Flower Garden.

In most places planting anything in the way of trees or shrubs should be completed as soon as possible. -"Though planting may in some places be carried out much later, there is seldom any advantage in delay ; expediency may render late planting advisable, or excusable, but the advantage ends there. For, unless the roots get a good hold on the ground before hot and dry weather sets in, there will be very little-' summer growth. It is gaining a good summer growth that makes autumn planting the best; early spring is the next best time.

Roses may be planted still, for another month in fact, and good results obtained ; but this can scarcely be applied to plants that were not lifted and heeled in some time ago. When this has been done the bushes will have made both new roots ’ and new shoots by this time, and, if taken up and replanted with as little exposure of the roots as possible, they scarcely feel the check. A very large number of herbaceous plants may be transplanted at this time, as well as most of the lily family. It is not advisable to transplant lilies very often. .Unless they show signs of deteriorating they should be left alone, provided there- are no special reasons that render their removal desirable. If this .is the case, little harm will be done, for they are very accommodating in that respect. All the strong-growing lilies, the speciosum, tigrinum, longiflorum, candidum, and auratum, require deep planting. A necessity with deep planting is a deep soil, well drained, either naturally or artificially. The largest bulbs of auratum should be put in a hole nearly or quite 18 in. deep. Smaller bulbs, including all those mentioned, require a hole 12 in. deep at least. This may appear an excessive depth, but a little observation of their habit will show that it is not. Above the bulbs, and out of the base of the new stems, a very strong set of roots always springs. These are very necessary to the well-being of the plants; it is obvious that if the bulbs were not planted deeply, these roots would be near or on the surface of the soil, and consequently unable to do the work for which they are designed. This is so well recognized by cultivators that, when bulbs of lilies are grown in pots, only a little soil is put in at the time of potting the bulbs, which are consequently very low in the ' pot k They are allowed to make enough growth to clear the top of the pot, which is then filled up with soil to enclose the stem-roots that will be already pushing out into the air. The class of plants referred to as herbaceous include the various spiraeae, of which there are a number of distinct types, as japonica and its varieties, palmata, filipendula, astilboides, and others. Heuchera, perennial campanula, as

persicifolia, rotundifolia, isophylla, and others, francoa ramosa, scabiosa caucasica, doronica, saxifrages, helenia, rudbeckice, delphinia, dicentrce, dales, Japanese iris, pseonies, phlox, penstemons, &c. Japanese iris are deservedly popular plants, and are sure to give satisfaction, provided they are grown in good soil with a sufficiency of moisture ; their proper home, doubtless, is in semi-boggy land, but they do well in any good soil. Herbaceous pseonies are very desirable plants, of easy culture, and long-suffering. They give little trouble when once established in good soil, and their flowers are numerous and beautiful. Quite different is the modern race to the old-fashioned . pseony-rose. The tree peeony Moutan is also a fine thing, with enormous double flowers of a pleasing shade of light rose; it is shy flowering only ■when not properly fed; it requires rich ground. Carnations should now be planted. The ground for them should have been ready some time ; if not, it should have some good stable manure dug in deeply, leaving none near , the surface. They like a firm but not stiff soil. If inclined to be stiff, it should be loosened with sand, burnt earth, leaf-mould, or anything of the kind available; a good dressing of soot worked in the top spit will be of great service, and a sprinkle of bonemeal or basic slag may be added. Before planting tread the soil down as hard as can be done. Put the plants in rather deeply, so that the bottom grass rests on the surface of the soil; press the soil firmly about the roots.. Summer-flowering gladioli may now be planted in well-drained soil in a sunny position. Put the corms 6 in. below the surface.