OUR NATIONAL BEVERAGES.

New Zealand Illustrated Sporting & Dramatic Review, Volume XV, Issue 870, 8 November 1906, Page 21

OUR NATIONAL BEVERAGES.

Whisky, undoubtedly, is one of the most important and interesting of ou l national beverages. It has been the national beverage par excellence of Scotland and Ireland for many centuries, and the greatly increased consumption and popularity of “the wine of Scotland” in England during the past fifty years warrant the assertion that it has become one of the leading national alcoholic beverages in the latter country also. The reasons for the great rise in the consumption of Scotch whisky in England are manifold, but chief among them may be mentioned the evolution of the art of scientific blending during the last thirty years or so, its recommendation by the medical profession for many purposes both in health and disease, and, lastly, the excellent value lor money which it represents.

We are not concerned here with the question as to “what is whisky,” for this is a matter on which the Law Courts have not yet pronounced a final judgment, but, even if it were settled, we doubt whether a purely academic question as to whether a certain article has the right to a certain name or not is of sufficient interest to the general public to warrant our entering at length into this aspect of the matter. A brief description, however, of the different types of spirits known to the general public as whisky will not be without interest. There are two main considerations involved in the preparation of whisky—namely, materials and methods of manufacture. With regard, in the first place, to materials, it may be broadly stated that whisky is a spirit obtained from the cereal grains. Among the most important of these are barley, rye, oats, wheat, and maize. As far as the materials are concerned, whisky-making consists in

the conversion of the starch contained in the grain into sugar, of the latter into alcohol, and finally of the separation of the alcohol from the non-volatile substances in the “wash”—that is to say, the fermented saccharine solution which forms the ultimate product of the first part of the process. Scotch pot still whiskies are generally made from malted barley; other whiskies (Irish and American) usually from a mixture of malted barley, with a proportion of unmalted grain, such as barley, rye, oats, and maize (Indian corn). The preparation of the raw materials for distillation is very

similar in all cases, whether the result is to be a malt or grain, or pot still er patent still whisky. If barley, or for the matter of that, any other cereal grain, is steeped in water for a number of hours, and is then spread out in a thin layer on a malting floor, it starts germinating, and during its growth produces a number of ferments or enzymes, among which is a substance called diastase. Barley is generally used, as being the most convenient form for obtaining it. This diastase possesses the property of converting starch into sugar, and what is of great importance is the fact that the quantity of diastase formed is much greater than that necessary for the transformation of the starch in the particular grain in which it has developed. The importance of this will be appreciated when we point out that this enables the brewer or distiller to make use of a considerable proportion of unmalted grain, thereby saving the expenses of malting. After the malt has germinated sufficiently it is allowed to wither, and is then dried on a kiln. The well-known smoky flavour characteristic of many whiskies results from the circumstance that peat fuel is employed for this drying operation, the products of combustion of the peat being passed directly through the grain. The next operation consists in converting the starch of the malt, together with the starch of any “raw” or unmalted grain that may be employed, into sugar, and this is done by “mashing” the starchy material with hot water in a huge vessel called the mash tun. The liquid flowing from the mash tun consists of a watery solution of sugar, and in order to convert the lat-

ter into alcohol yeast is added. The yeast induces fermentation, and this fermenta.ion results in the transformation of the sugar into alcohol. Besides the alcohol, however, small quantities of other volatile substances, usually termed “impurities” or “by-products,” are formed. Among these may be mentioned the ethers,. the acids, the aldehydes (the latter standing widway between the alcohol and the acids), the higher alcohols or “fusel,” and lastly a substance termed furfurol. This mixed alcoholic liquid is called “wash,” and is subjected to distillation, either in a pot or a patent still. The pot still is a huge copper vessel provided with a high swan neck, the latter being connected with a condensing coil surrounded with running water. The still is heated by means of either direct fire or steam coils. The liquid that comes over —i.e., distills —consists of alcohol and water together with impurities. In order to concentrate the alcohol and to remove part of the impurities a second, and frequently a third, distillation is necessary. Highland Malts, Lowland Malts, Islays, and Campbeltowns are the four distinguishing makes of Scotch Whisky, and are all practically produced from the same material in the above way, the chief difference being the type of pot still used and the way in which the material is treated. A difference is also caused in the manufacture of the malt, more or less peat being employed in the kilning, more being used in the preparation of Islays and less in the Lowlands. The patent still consists of two towers, called the rectifier and analyser respectively, which are divided into a number of compartments. It accomplishes in one operation

that which takes several in the pot still, and works more conomically, as much coal and water as well as time are saved. The resulting whisky contains -he same “impurities” as the pot still product, only in a srnauer quantity. 1 he result is that the whisky is less “fac” or oily, and milder than the pot still article. Without descanting on the merits or demerits 01 either .ype of whisky, it may be remarked that a big b 'iat” pot stiff whisKy, which is suitable for consumption in the bracing air of the West Highlands, for instance, is found to be far ,oo rich for those engaged in sedentary avocations in towns. It is largely a question of place and individual taste whether a man will drink a pure pot still whisky or a patent still whisky, or that which apparently — to judge by the overwhelming body oi expert: and lay opinion on the point —suits the greai,. majority best—namely, a blend of the two. The majority of good blends, however, are not composed merely of one or two whiskies, but (whether they be blends or pot still whiskies only or of pot still and patent still) of a large number, frequently 30 or 40 different kinds being employed. It is here that the blender’s art comes in, for it is only by employing a large number of whiskies that it is possible to secure uniformity of flavour and unvarying excellence of quality. But the employment of so many whiskies implids the holding of a large stock and great , (experience and discrimination as to selection. It is then the selection of the 'right whiskies, and above all the selection of the right whiskies of mature age, which involves great difficulties unless a large stock is held, that makes for success in blending. Among the pioneer firms in real scientific blending may be mentioned .he well known firm of Messrs James Buchanan and Co., Ltd. This firm has been one of the most successful in popularising Scotch whisky in the South, for, emanating from the North with an already great reputation, and makirig the Black Swan Distillery in Holborn their headquarters for London and this portion of England, they quickly added to the great name of this already famous distillery. It is not needful to digress here into ‘he history of the Black') Swan. Has not Dickens already so well described it in “Barnaby Rudge” in those vivid accounts of his of the Gor-

don Riots, when the mob attacking the distillery broke the spiri; casks, of the terrible fire that then ensued, and the deaths that occurred as the burning spirit rushed down the stree.s ? Enough ! It is sufficient that at th : s date the Black Swan Distillery had a reputation, which has been further enhanced and embellished by its coming into the possession of Messrs J. Buchanan and Co., and, as readers will doubtless remember, Dr. Veil, at the Select Committee appointed by the House of Commons in 1890 under the Presidency of Sir Lyon Playfair, spoke most highly of this firm’s whisky ; and that well-known medical journal, the “Medical Magazine,” has also spoken in its praise, pointing out that the whisky is still to-day of the same excellence at it was some 15 years ago.

(To be Concluded Next Week.)