DECLINE OF THE CHEF

New Zealand Illustrated Sporting & Dramatic Review, Volume XIV, Issue 854, 19 July 1906, Page 22

DECLINE OF THE CHEF

The first change made in the domestic arrangements of a modern London or country house when economy becomes the order of the day is (remarks a London paper) to substitute a woman cook for the highly-paid and extravagant chef. Not only does this save a large sum in the head chef’s wages —for a chef demands £l2O to £l5O a year when he is an unknown man in a moderate-sized house, and any sum from £5OO to £l5OO a year when he is known; whereas the best of women cooks can be engaged for £7O a year —but it saves much more in minor expenses. The woman will manage with one or two fewer assistants, will waste less material and (to put the matter in delicate language) she claims fewer “perquisites.” The angry and plainspoken mistress calls it stealing less. Moreover, the chatelaine of a famous old ducal house in the south of England, who has introduced this change, claims that the cooking is- now much better, and far more wholesome. The ordinary chef is too fond of new dishes, flavourings, and sauces. Unfortunately women cooks

rarely, have any training in the management of a large staff of subordinates or the organisation, financial and otherwise, of large and numerous meals; and they are consequently useless at the head of club and hotel kitchens. Though their wages show some tendency to increase, they will never earn as much as a chef while this is the case. It is a pity that some of the larger schools of cookery • nnnct give lessons in such organisations.