A LOST ART.

New Zealand Illustrated Sporting & Dramatic Review, Volume XIV, Issue 813, 5 October 1905, Page 23

A LOST ART.

(By G. R. Barnett-Smith in “ The Win Trade Review.”) Looking at the pictures of our fore fathers seated round the festive boarc it is easy to conjure up the discussior which took place at the different bar< nial halls over this or that particula glass of wine. One has only to notice the almost f? therly care with which the butler handle the decanter to feel assured that he tak< an intelligent interest in the wines < which he has charge, and is proud of tb fact that they are ’appreciated. Turn again to those old canvases e the jolly monks. Notice the smile e satisfaction on the face of one of tl monks, on whom has devolved the nt unpleasant task of looking after the ce lar, as he holds a glass of wine to tl light of a candle in the corner of tl cobwebbed vault. The fine, bril liar condition of the wine is already enoug to gladden the heart of the true coj noisseur before lingering over the exqu site aroma and finally the delicate fl: vour. Such indeed is a pleasure to oi who has the palate, the inclination, an knowledge to discrimate. Anyone can swallow a glass of liquic such a process requires no education, r special knowledge. But these are essei tially necessary in order to prope-ly a; predate one of the finest products < Nature, and to thoroughly en.-jcy tl wines of different countries. The pr. sent-day host, with few excepc.ous, 1 nov little about his cellar, and cares less. I many cases it is too much 'rouble to s< that the claret or Burgundy is in goc condition. If the wine should be col< as is most likely to be the case in tl winter, the order is given to put tl bottle for a few minutes in some h< water “to take the chill off.” Sush sudden change in temperature is enoug to upset the internal mechanism of bottle of gingerbeer, let alone the del cate nature of a fine claret or Burgund;

Then, should the wine be badly deanted, mine host says, “ Take this stuff ,way and bring in a bottle of chamagne,” because here at least he feels on afe ground, as given one of the fashionble brands, his guests know the pecuiary market value of what he is giving heb, relieving them of the necessity of asting the wine or of troubling them elves as to its quality. Thus for want of a little knowledge, •at more for want of a little trouble, lie fashion of drinking some of the very nest and purest of wines has gone out. low very different a claret or Burgundy astes if brought up from the cellar and Bowed to stay in the room in wnich it to be consumed for at least twelve ours, but better still twenty-four hours reviously ! ! ' ’ ' » Naturally, no amount of careful handlig will make a good wine out of a cheap i-called wine; but, on the other hand, a ae wine is improved beyond all knowdge by proper and careful treatment, hereas it may be entirely spoilt for want f a little trouble and attention. Men owadays will often discuss the peculiar lerits of certain brands and vintages of lampagne and cigars, but an intelligent rterest in wines and the cultivation of palate appears to be a lost art.