MODERN TURKEY.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, Volume VIII, Issue 2, 1 May 1903, Page 83

MODERN TURKEY.

M by r') gstuopoU C&ru

4«p|,il|p. ODERN Turkey, as repreMl|«||( sented by its capital, is jiln/nf- c mos * cosmopolitan JMMy2-L of all cosmopolitan ci--^-^-s^ eg^ an( j indeed, a stranger arriving there, and not being aware of his precise locality, might well question in what country he had inadvertently landed, the language, dress and general appearance furnishing no clue as to his whereabouts ; the dress of the men being mostly European, crowned by the fez, but this is worn in other countries, too, and veiled women are seen in more than one, so the hopelessly befogged traveller would give up the conundrum in despair. But there is no chance of such a thing happening, for great are the formalities to be gone through, before a foreigner can put his foot on Turkish soil, a mighty passport, signed by the Turkish Consul in London, being indispensable to anyone desiring to visit the Turkish Empire. Having obtained that, he must take care not to wound Turkish susceptibilities by carrying books mentioning the Sultan ; manuscripts are looked upon with an eye of suspicion, and all written or printed matter is suibjected to a rigorous investigation ; anything considered objectionable is prompt-

ly coniEiscated ; in my case, my unfortunate belongings remained three days at the Custom House, and finally arrived in a very untidy condition, but 1 was too thankful to see them again to grumble at anything. Viewed from the sea as one approaches, the first thing that strikes one is the unparalleled beauty of the city, the natural magnificence of its site, the countless domes and minarets, the masses of building" rising tier upon tier to the summit of the heights, a glimpse of the blue ribbon of the Bosphorus, bordered by marble palaces and high-walled gardens, the " Seraglio " or old palace of the Sultans, its gardens stretching down to a point where it dips into the water. After rounding this point one sees the Golden Horn, and loses sight of the Asiatic Coast with its villages of Scutari, Haidar Pasha, Cadekeni (the ancient Chalcedon), the whole forming a panorama of loveliness, which it would be hard indeed to eclipse.

But on landing i*t is not the beauty of the city that strikes one, but the dogs, the dirt, and the general air of dilapidation. What a disillusionizing as one descends from a frame of mind eminently peaceful and poetically admiring to

one of extreme disgust at the apparent neglect. Oh, those pariah dogs ! Such numbers swarm around, all sorts and conditions, large and small, toothless patriarchs, and playful puppies, dogs with all their limbs intact, and others, mere wrecks of the canine species, threelegged, one-eyed, tailess, minus an ear, the result of carriage accidents, for they lie peacefully sleeping, in the very middle of the street, and are often too late in moving, the only wonder to me is that there is a dog left. The fate that watches over unmitigated nuisances evidently protects them, and they increase, and multiply, and replenish the streets, which could do very much better without them. Formerly,

they were absolutely necessary, as scavengers, for all refuse was thrown into the street, now, since the institution of rubbish carts, they can scarcely pick up a living. Enough of them, though they are, indeed, one of the " sights " of the place in more senses than one.

Horse trains and carriages form the usual means of transit, the latter very cheap, but, owing to the rough state of the roads, by no means enjoyable. The trams are really more comfortable, but I always felt too sorry for the poor horses to patronise them. There is also an underground electric railway between Galata and Peril, which is a great convenience. Boats

run frequently between the villages up the Bosphorus, the Asiatic coast., and the " Islands/ as the picturesque group situated about two hours journey from town, is usually termed. They are nine in number ,, four only inhabited. Much of outdoor life can be seen on these boats, and studied at leisure, but it is not with the view of introducing "all sorts and conditions of men," that I am writing this, but rather to describe the lawful owners of the soil.

The commerce of the place certainly lies in the hands of foreigners, and the Turks are well content that it should do so, for they are proud, and consider mere business beneath their dignity, but the army is quite another thing, consequently, all of

the better class hold some military

rank, but the occupation of the lower is an unsolved mystery ; they cannot all be soldiers. As a nation they are proud, dignified, grave, and kind-hearted. Start not in astonishment, a Turk is a very lamb for gentleness, when he is not engaged in fighting. As some one pithily p,uts it, "■• He is very mild, excepting 1 when he is cutting off heads," and really as far as my personal experience goes, I am inclined to share that opinion ; but I must admit that 1 have never seen him when engaged in the latter occupation. He is passionately fond of his children, and devoted to them. As a husband his character

is not quite so good, but he is, contrary to the general idea, the husband of one wife only ; although the Koran allows him four, the Turk of to-day seldom' takes advantage of the permission, probably he finds life easier with only one. I certainly heard of one cunning man who had two establishments, with a help-meet in each, and neither was aware of the other'js existence. How he accounted for his frequent absences, T do not know, possibly he pleaded " military duty/ But he is lazy, and again lazy, and yet again lazy. The busy march of civilization that entails restlessness and energy, does not interest him. He prefers to sit quietly in his cafe smoking the interminable cigarette, and drinking endless cups of coffee, undisturbed by the turmoil of Western life ; and so he will continue to smoke, and sit and sip, until his life as a nation is finished, and his government is swept away to make room for his successor who is already shouldering him out, slowly but surely. That point, however, has not yet been reached, and he is still a nation governed by a body conducting its w 7 ork by means ot espionage, for the land is^simply a nest of spies with other spies to spy on them. Every public meeting is an object of suspicion, and theatres

and concerts must obtain a permit from the government before each representation, or woe betide the unlucky manager. I. was present at a concert given at a pretty little Greek theatre, when, during the first item on the programme, a posse of police marched up the hall and mounted the platform. The performers sat as if turned to stone, the bow of the violin remained glued to the strings, and the pianist's hands were poised in mid-air in the very middle of an elaborate flourish, while a short dialogue ended in a general seeking of wraps and departure, minus our evening's entertainment. All this, forsooth, because the manager had forgotten to obtain the usual permit, accompanied, I suppose, by the usual " backsheesh."

A Turkish theatre is generally a wooden erection of the, covered shed style of architecture externally, and a pleasing compound of circus and stable within. Mud floor, plain deal arrangements (not unlike horse-boxes) represent the " boxes," while the " stalls " are rush - bottomed chairs, and the " gallery " is reserved for the ladies, and screened by lattice-work. As for the acting, well, it would make one weep, only it is such an absurd caricature of the histrionic

art, that one feels inclined to laugh instead. A play, I saw, was an adaptation from the French, translated into Turkish, usual subject of adopted child, and death of mother in the first scene. And how she did die to be sure, just like a flounder ! but during this process there was scarcely a dry eye in the placemen in military dress weeping freely, with the tears falling unheeded on their gaily-decorated breasts. Of course I could not understand much of the dialogue, but I don't think it would have made much difference if I had. The actors were Greek ; imagine a Greek company playing a French tragedy, translated into Turkish, but it is on a par with everything else. The Turks never do anything for themselves, if they can possibly get some other nation to do it for them, and there are always plenty to take the trouble — and the money.

According to his lights, the Turk is a religious man, keeping his yearly fast during the sacred month of Ramazan, with pious exactitude. And what an ordeal it must be ! for none must touch food from sunrise to sunset, when guns are fired to announce the beginning and end of each day's fast. Tt is a sight to behold the " arrahbadges " or public carriage drivers, standing in their ranks, with a piece of bread in one hand, a cup of coffee in the other, and a cigarette planted behind an ear, waiting anxiously for the welcome signal, no sooner heard than each hand moves to each mouth as one, with most wonderful unanimity. This fast tells hardly amongst the workers, the rich simply spend as much time as possible in sleep, and they have a wonderful gift of somnolence.

In the middle of the month is a feast called Bairam, when everyone enjoys himself as much as possible, and the Sultan for the only time during the year, leaves the shelter of his palace walls, and proceeds to Stamboul in state, to kiss the Prophet's coat, which is guarded carefully in a mosq,ue ? and taken out

annually for the purpose. Yildiz, his charming palace on the Bosphorus, is situated some distance irom Stamboul, and there are three ways between, two by land, and the other by water, but the way which will ue taken remains a mystery until he actually appears, which is rather a disappointment to those spectators who are waiting' for him on the ways he does not take. I happened, on one occasion, to be one of these, having been deluded into a long wait by the presence of the sand, which is spread over the road to the depth of several inches so that His Imperial Majesty's limbs may not be too rudely shaken over the terribly uneven stones, miscalled " pavements " in Constantinople. But, on this occasion he returned by water, as I afterwards learned, this sanding is always done in case he should drive that way. On this day every year, he has a new wife, as a reward, I suppose, for his unparalleled bravery in passing through crowds of his so-called loyal subjects.

Although 1 was disappointed at Bairam, I had a glimpse of the Su'tan later, when I attended at the Pavilion and saw him drive down and enter the " Mosque Hamidieh/' which he has built for his privtite devotions just outside the gates of Yildiz, and every Friday he " says his prayers " there, which is the Turkish way of saying " goes to church/ Of course a card from one's Ambassador is necessary before one can be admitted (it really seems impossible to move without a card, or permit, or passport, or tesharry, or something in Turkey),, having obtained which, the rest is easy. On arrival at tlje pavilion,, a long room with many Windows,, facing the mosque, we printed our " tickets-of-leave/' for such they literally were, to a handsome officer clad in a most gorgeous and picturesque uniform, secured chairs, and found that by craning our necks al-

most to dislocation we coul <1 obtain a good view. To the right of the road up which we had just

passed, was a large open space, now speedily occupied by troops of cavalry, their arms and accoutrements glittering in the rays of the sun, presently joined by others, cavalry and infantry, until the whole scene was a mass of smart uniforms. Bands playing martial music passed the window, and lined the road down which the Royal carriage would drive, the grounds of the mosque were crowded with Pashas and Beys covered with medals and decorations. Carriages containing ladies of the Royal Harem drove into the grounds and

waited there, for none of the fair sex are present during the prayers, then came the carriage with the Sultan's favourite grandchild, a boy of six or seven, who waited on the carpeted; steps for the arrival of his august grandsire. Nor was his waiting of long duration, for a curious sound, the Turkish equivalent to a cheer, rose from the throats of the crowd, greeting the appearance of a plain open carriage, drawn by a pair of bays, in which sat no less a personage than Abdul Hamid 11., a small plain man in dark blue uni-

form, unrelieved by medals or decorations. On the opposite seat was Osman .Pasha (the hero of Plevna, since dead), whose handsome face, fine physical development and dress glittering with decorations, quite eclipsed his royal master in outward appearance. When they had disappeared in the mosque, the silence of the Pavilion was broken by many voices, criticising and commenting on the scene just witnessed ; servants brought round cups of tea — without milk — much to my surprise, I quite expected coffee, trays of cigarettes were

also handed round, I accepted one and kept it as a memento of my visit. A small group of veiled women were the only representatives of their sex outside, and an object of great curiosity to the visitors. After a while another carriage drawn by a pair of creamcoloured horses drew up at the steps ; another curious apology for a cheer arose as the Sultan made his appearance, slowly descended the steps,, entered the carriage, and. taking the reins, drove himself back to the palace, where a reception

was held which closed the ceremony of the " Selemlih," the same programme being repeated every Friday.

The mosq,ues of Constantinople are very interesting, though, as they number 480, ,to visit all is impossible ; St. Sopia naturally ranks first, as the oldest building in the world still utilized for the purpose for which it was originally erected, first as a place of worship for Christians, now for that of Mahometans. It is certainly a magnificient pile of buildings, I was rather unfortunate in my visit, .us workmen were engaged inside, and the scaffolding hid a great part of it. One's first impression on entering is the vastness, the second a sense of something crooked, for the East window and the direction of Mecca, not being the same, the carpets have been arranged to face the latter, and the result is somewhat confusing to the eye. There are no seats, as the devotions are always conducted sitting on the floor, crosslegged, kneeling, or in a standing position. Such of the carving and decorations as I could see were superb, though I must confess to a sense of disappointment as I left the place which has been the scene

of so much that is interesting" in history. The Pigeon Mosque is noted foi the hundreds of tame pigeons which fly down to eat the corn from one's hand, as tame as their famous relatives at St. Mark's, Venice. After feeding them, we paid our fee, were presented with the customary shoes, so that our feet, contaminated by contact Hvith the stones of the street, should not soil the purity of the holy carpets. On this occasion also, I was unfortunate, for my slippers slipped off at every step (not that my foot is unusually small, but the shoe was unusually large) to the great disgust of the old man who escorted us. Muttered threats reached me at frequent intervals, presumably about my wickedness. In any case, I really saw little or nothing of that mosque, owing to my unfortunate footgear. The Seraglio, or ancient Palace of the Sultans, the grounds of which reach to the sea, and form the point called Seraglio Point, is now used as a Royal Treasury, a sort of Turkish Tower of London, and only occasionally opened to visitors. I and a friend were fortunate enough to join a party of sixteen, and after a great deal of fuss and examination

■of our cards of admission, were finally allowed to enter the huge doors that guard tlie entrance, and walked some distance before reaching the Treasury doors which were opened with much ceremony, for the Turks are proud of their collection, and like to impress visitors accordingly. In the centre of the room first entor•ed is a throne, its seait, arms, and back encrusted, with pearls ; it is not an ordinary sized seat, but large enough for a man to sit crosslegged, with feet under him, " a la Turque," so the number of pearls may be imagined. Around r,he

room glass cases are ranged, containing beautiful carvings, arms, and objects of art, and last but not least, bowls full of loose precious ;stones, th& sight of which made Eastern fairy tales appear a reality, ancient coins, medals, and set jewels, a dazzling display. Our guides, who enjoyed our astonishment, then hurried us upstairs, where the walls were lined with effegies of deceased Sultans, each in his habit as he lived, sword in hand, the hilt of ■each encrusted with rubies, emeralds, diamonds, or pearls. Next we

were shown the library, containing many ancient volumes, and the Prince's Kiosk, separate buildings, the latter, richly and daintly furnished with rugs, divans, gorgeous velvet hangings and carpets ; there was an air of combined comfort and magniftence in this room which struck one pleasantly. On reaching Seraglio Point, we found three of the Sultan's caiques, each rowed by ten men in Royal liveries of white, with embroidered sash, zouave jacket and fez, waiting to convey us up the P>osphorus, to visit the Palaces of Beyler-bey and

Dolma-Bagtche. Neither of these were inhabited ; great wildernesses of magnificent suites of rooms, marble bathrooms, literally marble, floor, walls, and ceiling all of the same material. In the latter palace is a long, dark, narrow picture gallery, so dark, indeed, that the paintings were scarcely visible, and a staircase of crystal — which must be a grand sight when artificially illuminated. These treasures are not often displayed, except when the exchequer is unusually low, and there is nothing wherewith to pay

the usual wages, it is then opened. as the money thus received serves this useful purpose. But the B.oy£il Exchequer is continually runningdry, and the means employed to fill it are many ; one is to confer medals and decorations on either subjects or foreigners, deserving or undeserving (principally the latter), [t is incumbent on the- recipients to appear to feel highly honoured, and to pay from £10 to £20, in many cases for a thing they do not want, and, in the case of the foreigners at least, never wear. This practice accounts for the superb glitter at the " Selemlih."

Every Turkish gentleman speaks French, and many English in addition, a knowledge of languages being the criterion by which his education is judged ; but as for the general mass, the less said xho better, the schools are dirty to the last degree. Children of both sexes attend the same school, up to the ages of nine or ten, and learn to read and write Turkish after a fashion. I have frequently watched a party of school children, accompanied by their master, marching homewards, and, as a rule, he looks more dilapidated than any of his pupils. I believe some of the poorer priests take pupils to eke ooit their scanty incomes. They are supposed to wash five times a day, before each prayer. Perhaps they do, but the resoili is not visible to the naked eye. Everything is in arrears in Turkey, education, payment, army, navy, and even soap-and-water. Literature, needless to say, is almost nil, the educated reading French or English books, and the uneducated nothing at all.

At night the guardianship of the streets is given up to the watchmen,, who wander round, armed with a large stick, with which they strike the number of hours, half and quarter, on the pavement, Turkish time of course. How puzzled I often felt, when awakened by them,, counting the strokes, and trying to calculate the time a la European — difficult enough for a stranger, but doubly so when the said stranger is half asleep, for the Turkish day begins at sunset, and finishes at sunset, with no regard to the changes of that luminary. It is 'always twelve o'clock at sunset, all the year round, so that hour is alwayschanging ; sometimes it is twelve at 4 p.m., and sometimes at 7-30 p.m., thus it is an awful puzzle to catch the last boat, if one doesn't know when the sun goes to bed. Still one gets accustomed to anything in Turkey, even double hours, double calendars, double pounds (English and Turkish), and double dealing.

One cannot even change one's residence without a " tesharry " or

permit from the Government, leave the capital for the interior, or one town for another, within the Empire, without permission, as for leaving the country, it is scarcely necessary to say, one must have a wonderful piece of stiff paper, setting forth, in Turkish, one's nationality, ag.e,.._a_nd general appearance, besides other little items of information, in order to identify the bearer in case anything is wrong. And so, to my mind, at least, the conclusion of the whole matter is, that Constantinople is the best city in the world " to live out of."