Oversea to New Caleddonia.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, Volume VII, Issue 6, 1 March 1903, Page 439

Oversea to New Caleddonia.

Photos ly J. Q. Peace

JfT was scorching hot, and not a || ' breath of wind came from oil' I the land as the " Ville de la £j. Ciotat " passed through the Sydney Heads, bound for New Caledonia. The passengers were all on deck taking a long, last look at the lovely harbour. its shores, green carpeted and studded with villas and cottages, make it one of the most beautiful harbours in the world. As the ocean swell was felt, 1 noticed a pathetic, pale-green expression settling upon some of the countenances of my fellow passengers as they made for their cabins. Like Grringoire, they asked them, selves, "If 1 am, can this be ? If this is, can 1 be V The rest of us who had recently travelled from France were not affected by the movement of the boat. For four days the blue sky and the whitecapped waves were our only companions. The following day we sighted the lighthouse, a structure of brick standing upon a small coral island.

At 1 intervals those recovering from mal-de-mer came on deck. One of the gentlemen, who would have beaten a shrewd Yankee at a guess, caused quite a flutter

amongst his friends. Shading his eyes with one hand he pointed far out to sea. Eager eyes followed his movement, and at his cry, " There is the pilot I" great excitement ensued — the men betting freely as to the possible colour of his eyes and the clothes he wore, also whether he was tall or short. All strained their eyes to identify the small object bobbing so jauntily upon the smooth water. It was indeed the pilot, and he was soon on board. The ocea.n swell was lost as we neared Noumea, the capital of New Caledonia. There seemed to be no harbour, only a vast expanse of ocean, studded with beautiful islainds. Between; thesei islets are great waterways, many fathoms deep on their leeward sides. A long range of mountains was silhouetted against the bright blue of the heavens, the highest peak being Mt. cTOr, aptly named, for gold is found here as well as other ores — in fact, the whole island is particularly rich in minerals. The hot, scorching sun still accompanied us as we cast our eyes over the water — still no harbour appeared.

Without warning two large is lands loomed ahead, apparently overlapping each other. Upon a nearer approach it seemed as if nothing short of a miracle would save us from destruction. A =?ig'li •of relief escaped us as we saw that

these islands were a majestic gateway opening a channel which eventually carried us into the Noumea harbour. A.t the end of this channel are two islands inhabited by convicts. The most desperate of the men live on He JNTou, the island to the left, while on Goat Island, to our right, live those who aro ■classed as petty offenders.

A little further on we approached a huge limestone cliff standing straight up from the water's edge, with forts cut out of the solid stone. It looks across the foaming sea— a giant watch tower.

At this point a signal is given, and the steamer veers to the left, •disclosing to our curious eyes a most beautiful harbour.

Now the sea is live glass, and we •catch glimpses of men- o' -war, mer. chant steamers , traders, timber

vessels, fishing boats and native canoes.

Beyond the long stretch of valley, with its pure white streets lying at the feet of sharp-peaked mountains, an unbroken view of iron roofs belonging to the French houses is seen, and then the Cathedral of white stone on its high promontory, a shining light . to the way-worn traveller. Before the city lies the broad bay, broken by its little islands, behind are the blue-tinted hills that stretch away in the distance, cutting the clear atmosphere like great spikes. A small steamer came out to meet the incoming mail. " The Semaphore has thrown up its arm/ as the inhabitants say when an English mail arrives, and the jabbering Kanakas and chattering Frenchies created such a babel of sound that I was glad to be sent

ashore in a private boat. Cabs awaited us. Not a jimrikisha did I see, but the nicest of landaus with a " cabby/ who yodled as we rolled along the clean streets.

Great reservoirs hold a conspicuous position on the hill facing the town, and the overilow from these forms a steady, rippling stream down the gutters of the streets. What a strange feeling came ovyr toe upon entering this quaint place ! No other land between us and Sydney, no life, no "go " in the whole surroundings.

For a real live Yankee it was doleful in the extreme. However, 1 managed to get over it, and had a tolerably good time during my

visit. There were no cables, no electric cars, no " sales/ no bargains, dear to the woman's heart, no nothing — just a settlement or military station belonging to tho French. It is called the little Paris of the South Seas. This sounds gay, and it really is so when one knows the ropes, but not before. The next day we walked to the " Cocoanut Square," which lies in the centre of the town. The cool, soft breeze gently swayed the flamboyant with its flaming red blossoms ; the tall cocoanuts that stud the outer border also felt its m-

fluence. The sun's rays on the iron roofs dazzled the eyes so much that we were glad to enjoy the quiet shade.

Presently the three bells of the Cathedral rang out a glad bridal song', inquiringly I looked at my companion for an explanation. Having lived there as government photographer for the last fifteen years, he knew all about it, and kindly gave me the necessary information.

" A mariage de convenance ! observed my companion. " Thethree bells denote the class of marriage ; first-class always use the three bells, second two bells, and third one bell. Even deaths are given the same designation. The marriage of soul to soul, of temperament and temperament, the marriage of will, mutuality and essence — the kind of marriage that Coventry Patmore has so exquisitely described in his ' Angel in His House ' is the rarest thing in this island. We are brought face to face with the fact that marriages are for the most part a matter of dower and position. The French girl, previous to her marriage, secludes herself for three weeks, i.e.,. she denies herself to all visitors. The eventful day arrives and she is robed in her finery. The long line of carriages with the bride arid her father bringing up the rear, parade the town. Inquisitive eyes and not always too flattering tongues follow the procession. The civil service is performed at the ' mare/ after which the party proceed to the Cathedral for the blessing-. As I previously stated," continued my companion, " the funerals on this island are conducted much on the same principle, i.e., bells for the first, second or third class, according to position. One delightful day when the sun was not so powerful as usual, I followed a train of mourners to the Cathedral, where a short service was held. Directly afterwards came the hearse, bearing" ite silent burden with its ' weepers/ hired for the occasion, solemnly

walking" behind. Relatives and friends preceding a long line of empty carriages slowly moved toward Rue d'Alma, the main street, thence through the town to Hospital Hill, on the outskirts. Here the carriage entered and the remains were carried to their last resting place, four miles further out. Those who did not care to continue the jo-urn e^ returned, myself amongst the number."

The inhabitants of this place ai:e rather mixed. The Chinese and Japs take up a small corner for their wares. The Tonkinois, with blackened teeth from the chewing of

is found, but a native spotted like a leopard is of greater rarity. Hired at one of the largest stores isjust such a curiosity. From head to foot this freak is covered with large spots of black and greyish, white. There is no disease, no sign even of that dreadful elephantiasis which attacks such a large number of natives.

Riding towards Canala one day we passed a most startling object. It was a native. One leg was about six times the size of the other. Apparently he had no pain, only a considerable inconvenience when walking. Apart from the

beetle-nut, are chiefly seen working amongst the shipping. The indolent Malabar lounges lazily about or snores under the shade of a neighbouring banana. Next come the New Hebrides and New Caledonian natives, both used as labourers in the coffee plantations, shops and private houses. These Kanakas range in colour from copper to deepest black. Like the African nigger the blacker the skiu the handsomer they are considered. As in all races, an occasional albino

natives there is also a strong population of English and French, the latter being chiefly military.

The streets and government buildings are kept in perfect repair by the convicts. They are sent in squads into the town every morning at six o'clock, under the care of a keeper. During the. heat of the day, from 10.30 a.m. until 1 p.m., they, as well as the inhabitants, breakfast and indulge in a siesta, after which work is resumed until 5 p.m. The day ended, the convicts

form in line. When all have been mustered they march through the streets, and are sent to their respective prisons, either at lie Nou or Moravelle, one mile and a-half from town. Each day, each week, each year the same thing occurs. According to the number of years served the " ticket- of -leave-man " must stay under the watchful eye of the police for a corresponding period before he is allowed his freedom, i.e., he is allowed to marry and make a home during that time, but he is still under the eye of xhe law. One peculiar way they have of choosing a wife is this : At Bourail is a female prison Hinder the guardianship of nuns. The inmates of this place are naturally desirous of their freedom. The " ticket-of-leave " man is in need of a partner, so he visits theprison. The women are then marshalled out and stand in line lor his inspection. Some put on their best smile, others by coaxing words try to make an impression. They would go with the worst man under the sun to obtain comparative freedom. Finally the choice is made, and the two depart regardless of the taunts and bitter remarks from the unfavoured ones. If their conduct has been satisfactory during- their surveillance the " libre " is then allowed to return to France. How the heart hungers for la belle France !

This reminds me of a convict who had just finished a long term at lie Nov. He had been placed there unfortunately through' the false evidence of his wife. He lived but for the day of his release, when he had sworn that he would return to Prance and find the faithless woman. Revenge ! that most awful of words, was his one thought. Rolling the word in his mouth, as only a Frenchman can, it was like some sweet morsel— R—r— revenge ! At last he was free to return home.

His words had been heard by his comrades, but laughed at with

scorn. He would not dare, they said.

His sentence finished, he started by the next mail for France, with the intention of fuliilling his awful threat.

The guilty woman, all unconscious of her doom, was found. A bright flash of glittering steel — a gasp and then silence. Two months later he was sent back again to lie Nou on a life sentence. He had dared, and

his companions looked at him in wonder.

There is another department in these prisons whereby time is served between " bars and spaces." A certain number of picked musicians from the convict list is taken — a leader is chosen, and a full-stringed band is equipped. The instruments are all of the best make. Practising from

morning till night, it is not to be wondered at tihat they have the most perfect band this side of the line. Their services are always required at Government levees, balls, etc. In a retired corner, hidden from curious eyes by surrounding shrubbery, they produce exquisite melodies, which float on the heated air, and dainty feet trip and glide to their strains. Twice a week for years they played in the rotunda on Cocoanut Square, but this practice has been since abandoned.

On the broad bay many pleasure boats are kept by Englishmen who are either employed in business in the town or in the various mines. A strange law exists whereby a Frenchman must be part owner of these boats. Again, if one is so unfortunate as to have his boat stolen by some convict meditating escape, the English owner must make good all damages occurring, despite all the inconvenience to himself. The laws are for the French, not for the English.