A holiday Ramble round Brighton and up Fox's River.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, Volume VII, Issue 2, 1 November 1902, Page 97

A holiday Ramble round Brighton and up Fox' s River.

Bt W. TOWNSON

Hlustra ted by the Author.

j^^<§Kk V friend Boswell and I JftfreWli having a few weeks to jiiW/tuv s P are i n January last, in £_lgrgO_ which to botanize, sketch -^r£^3-s-- an( j c j Q some mountaineering, decided to explore one of the least known beauty spots of the district some thirty miles down the coast from Westport. Rumours of its beautiful caverns and marvellous river gorge had often reached us, and on viewing it we came to the conclusion that from a scenic point of view it was a most valuable national asset, and one which the Tourist Department should most certainly develop and render more accessible. We drove the twenty miles to Charleston, the terminus ol the coach road, and then transferred our baggage to O'Brien's packhorse, whilst we continued our journey on foot, the road being little more than a good pack track, where it crosses the saddles in places the grade resembles the pitch on the roof of a house. It is a picturesque journey, and as we were not tied for time we strolled leisurely along, admiring the changing scene and enjoying the walk amazingly. We were joined on the road by two more friends who came down for a couple of days, and had then to return to town. We reached the St. Kilda Hotel at sundown, and were introduced to its smiling proprietor, an Alloa man named William Robertson, generally known through the Brighton district by the name of "Billy." In the golden days of the district Vol. VII.— No. 2.—1.

he had been harbour-master, and is now the local oracle on all matters nautical, and not only dispenses refreshments to the travelling public, but works a claim on the terrace at the back of the house. As he may be busy in his claim when a thirsty traveller chances along, \ the following notice is posted up :— " I am to be found on the terrace,, at work, at the back of, and a little north of the house ; three minutes will find me." It is quite usual for anyone journeying that way, who knows the run of the house and finds Billy absent, to save the three minutes by strolling into the bar, helping himself to whatever beverage is on tap at the time, placing his sixpence on the counter and continuing his journey ; but the landlord assured us that this primitive method of hotel-keeping has its drawbacks, and that he has at times suffered, losses through the want of supervision in the charging of the glasses. We were to put up at McCarthy's house, nearly a mile further on, but before leaving the St. Kilda Hotel we were pressed to have a taste with our new acquaintance, and sing a verse or two of " Auld-Lang-Syne," with its attendant hand-clasp, before resuming our march, and needless to say, the invitation was accepted in the spirit in which it was given. The house where we were entertained during our stay was all that we could have desired, and the kindness with which we were treated greatly enhanced the pleasure of our holiday. It was

within a stone's throw of the beach, and the boom of the surf was our nightly lullaby, not that we needed much soothing to sleep after inhaling the tonic ocean breezes, and exploring the rivers and mountains often from sunrise to sunset. Brighton is about a mile from McCarthy's, and at low water it is a most exhilarating walk along the beach, but when the tide is in the paddocks must be crossed, although there is a road of a sort, generally ankle deep in soft sand. A. board-ing-house and Post Ofiice, with a small school-house and a few scattered settlers homes constitute the township, and it is hard to realise looking at it now, that soon after gold was discovered, about the year 1866, by a party of Welshmen, on a terrace now known as Welshman's, the Brighton and Charleston districts carried a population of about 10,000, and that between the year of discovery and 1887, gold to the value of a million sterling had been won. This population supported no fewer than ninety public-houses, I am informed ; no wonder that the old hands say that the West Coast used to be much wetter than it is now. In one of our strolls over the beach we came upon an extensive mound, grown over with grass, and as it had an artificial appearance we examined it closely, and discovered that it was a huge burial mound for "dead marines/ as it consisted of emptied bottles piled gross upon gross, and one could _ not but think that the materials for public works of that nature must have been very costly at that time, and accounted for some part at least of the million.

From St. Kilda, where it is bounded by a series of bold cliffs called the White Horse Rocks, the sandy beach sweeps away to the south until reaching the mouth of Fox's River, where the way is barred, except at low water, by some peculiar isolated conglomerate rocks, with Seal Rock, a noted fishing ground, lying a little to the

westward. We have often stood upon this beach at high-water, and watched the great combing waves of the Tasman Sea lashing the shingle-beach which skirts the sand, throwing the pebbles up the slope only to bring them rattling and grinding down again as they receded, and we could observe the wear and tear which goes on eternally as the stones are rubbed down and gradually milled into beach sand, whilst fresh supplies of shingle are brought down the river with every flood.

Pieces of greenstone and agates are sometimes picked up on thia beach.

Fox's River is spanned by a wire suspension bridge, the great resort for the herring-fishing part of tbe community, and good sport is often obtained when the tide is in.

Passing over the bridge and skirting the rocky bluffs for a mile or two Woodpecker Bay is reached, where the ill-fated barque " Alexandra," of which a photo is given here, went ashore a few days after we had left.

Upon the wooded slopes nikau palms and towering tree ferns dominate the lower growth, and lend grace and charm to the scene. In this bay a settler long known as an authority on the weather has received a rude shock on learning that a centigrade thermometer had all these years done duty for him as a weather glass.

St. Kilda and Brighton are flanked by a line of limestone hills, and it is between this low range and the sea beach that the auriferous wash occurs, both as gravel deposits and leads of black sand, and in some parts of the district this sand is found at an elevation of nearly 600 feet. Behind these limestone hills lies a valley closed in to the eastward by the mountains forming the Paparoa Range. The Nile, Four-mile and Fox's Rivers, with Bullock Creek, take their rise in these mountains, course across the valley, and have success-

fully cut through this limestone barrier on their way to the sea.

We explored these rivers, and they are all beautiful, but Fox's is by far tlie most picturesque, and we spent several happy days wandering up and down its winding bed, admiring some new beauty at every bend. A track has been made for a mile or two up from the mouth of the river, and in places where it is over-arched by the low-spreading bush, the sunlight filters through the leaves, and beautifully dapples

the mossy stones with flecks of light and shade.

Where the track terminates there is nothing for it but to wade in, which at midsummer is no great hardship, as it is rather pleasant than otherwise negotiating the numerous . fords with the crystalline water gurgling and bubbling about your knees. Most travellers dde through the gorge, but as we had plants to examine and collect, and butterflies to net, we preferred being on foot.

Mile after mile one walks along,

quite overcome with the grandeur of the scene, for on either hand the great towering limestone walls rise sheer for hundreds of feet, their rugged faces draped and festooned with ferns and shrubs, whilst the scarlet rata blossoms, amongst which the kakas screech all day long, lend warmth, colour and tone to the picture. The crests of the ravine are fringed with bush, and there the pigeons can be seen sailing about on lazy wing, and looking quite diminutive from the river-

bed below. Convolvulus trails its snow-white flowers over the lower bushes, and later in the season the river's edge is adorned with daisylike clusters of " Linotea Hectori," better known through the district as the " tobacco plant."

In places the cliff's face is frescoed with delicately-tinted designs in stalactite, and from overhanging cornices crystallized lime produces some grand decorative effects. Here and there a limestone bluff stands out white and dazzling in the radiant sunlight, thrown into bold re-

lief by the shadowy gloom in the wooded cleft below.

The still pools in the river reflect the fleecy clouds as they are gently wafted by the summer breeze across the narrowed azure vault above, and in gazing upwards where the crest of the precipice is seen to overhang, one has a momentary fear of being suddenly overwhelmed. The river in one place has scooped out the softer strata and left a great rocky canopy, with the roof beautifully lined and banded in delicate shades of various colours : this

is known as the ballroom, and it well deserves its title. Across the river again on passing through a narrow cleft you find yourself under a great dome like the cupola of a cathedral where the grained roof is ornamented with hundreds of crystal pendants, and trailing creepers and filmy grasses wave gently from the glistening walls. Up the right-hand branch from where the river forks the water disappears into a cavern, and is no more seen until some quarter-of-a

mile away, where it re-appears, and in Bullock Creek the water runs subterraneously for a mile or more, I am told.

Flocks of tuis fuss and flutter about the fuchsias, where the berries are in great profusion, and their notes mellow and otherwise — for Sir W. Buller describes one note as resembling the sound of breaking glass — relieve the stillness of the gorge. We always looked out some romantic spot when luncheon time arrived, generally the edge of some dark pool at the foot of a noisy

rapid, where the water had a sparkle and looked more than usually refreshing, and there our satchels would be unstrapped, and an appetising meal despatched.

Exploring is hungry work, and we invariably disposed of a lot of provisions. Then the joy of a lazy half-hour, smoking the pipe of peace, and lolling at ease whilst surveying the fairy scene, where waters babbled, soft breezes whispered, pigeons softly coo'd, and Nature's works were one and all

masterpieces. Those were halcyon days, and it was good to live amidst such surroundings. One could not help musing on the countless ages which must have lapsed whilst this little river cut its

narrow channel through the limestone barrier, and with what a puny looking instrument a stupendous result had been achieved. In many places the rocky wall of the gorge shows a multitude of narrowlydivided strata, and a peculiar ribbed appearance is produced, which I did my best to brin^ out in a photograph. But my only regret in connection with this holiday outing is that I took a packet of faulty plates for my camera work in Fox's River, and most of my photographs of it were ruined beyond redemption. Mr Boswell, however, made some good sketches, so that we have some material still left for the illustration of this article.

A few miles up the stream the view becomes wider, and Mt. Faraday, and its neighbour, Mt. Bovis, tower up to the eastward, rendering the scene one of impressive grandeur. I was pleased to find the native holly in full bloom, and a

grass which drooped in long tassels over an overhanging shelf of rock, proved, to be " poa anceps." This, Mr Petrie assures me in correspondence, is its first geauine occurrence in the South Island. Upon a bushclad spur we discovered a kaka nesting, and the nest contained two eggs, hardset, and one which was aged and odorous. From observations made in many districts I have come to the conclusion that kakas have no stated time for nesting, but simply set up house-keeping when the fancy takes them. On the north side of the river near to the lower end of the gorge we reached the caves, after scrambling for some distance over boulders and slippery faces of rock. There are two, one of which has not been thoroughly explored, as it is considered unsafe to do so on account of water of uncertain depth being met with, but the other one is indeed a crystal grot, and as yet unsullied by the hand of the vandal. The cave is narrow, and winds its way into the heart of the hill side ; its floor, dotted with pools of water of the utmost transparency reflected the light of our candles as we passed along. The walls are ornamented with every variety of lime crystals, some of which sparkle like jewels, others forming most beautiful incrustations and excrescences. Lustrous stalactites in countless numbers adorn the roof, some of them slender as reeds and semitransparent, others massive and assuming grotesque forms, and the grouping is often fantastic in the extreme. We explored some galleries where the wealth of ornament almost prevented our thoroughly examining them, and we received some ugly pokes and prods from the projecting points which, surrounded us. In a constricted space stalactites can be very nasty at times, and we were deeply impressed with their business ends. By the light of four candles we were able to illuminate all the clefts and galleries, and it is astonishing

to observe the varied forms which carbonate of lime assumes. It vvill be a great misfortune if this beautiful cave is ever wantonly disfigured, for one cave in the district was despoiled of all its glories for the sake of the small quantity of quicklime which its stalactites furnished.

The great nettle " urtica ferox '"' flourishes in places on the side of the track, and appears to be the food -plant of the v Red Admiral "

butterfly. We generally gave it a wide berth, as its sting is abiding.

Our day's exertions were generally brought to a close with a swim in one of the pellucid river pools, and we usually reached our quarters with a razor-edge on our appetites. Fortunately for us the genial daughters of our host always catered for us on a most liberal and satisfactory scale. Then a smoke and a stroll over to play at chess with " Billy " who, on every

occasion, was going to resort to some subtle tactics which were to prove completely disconcerting, but almost invariably failed.

The photograph of the St. Kilda Hotel shows the proprietor's method of stacking the drift-wood gathered on the beach, all along the house-front ; it doubtless acted as a most efficient breakwind, but produced rather an unusual effect. He can be seen sitting at the end of the bench, resigned to his fate.

We were determined to secure his picture, and as I was in front of him with my camera and Boswell beside him with his sketch-book, he was between two fires, and surrendered at discretion. Since about the year 1887 he has kept a diary, in which he has written two lines every day, and it is the book of reference in all matters of dispute relating to past occurrences throughout the district. Day and date are always at the disposal of

the settlers around, lt is also a record of his sporting successes and his love affairs, whilst his selfdenials and self-indulgences are also faithfully recorded, thus forming a most entertaining volume.

It is no breach of confidence on my part to publish a few extracts from the annals of by-gone years when the coast was not as dry as now, for " Billy " gave me full permission to do so, and also to draw upon my imagination to the fullest extent. Our friend candicliv

admits that in past years it was just possible he sampled his stock-in-trade a trifle too freely, and in his diary certain years are recorded as sober ones, whilst some again he describes as quite otherwise. On certain days, news being scarce, quite trivial matters had to do duty, and on the day following an admission of jollification, the inevitable reaction was invariably in evidence. The entries selected were made in the early eighties.

May Ist. — Had two shots at McCarthy's bull. Billy, you are no good !

May Bth.— Received a pound of butter from Mr Powell ; found a pot of jam upset in cupboard. May 14th.— Went to Charleston ; jolly, as usual.

May 15th. — Sea calm ; bad headache ; no work. Oh, may I be forgiven for my sins ! May 16th.— Red cow had bull calf on Paddy's terrace ; lot of trouble getting her in.

July Ist.— Sowed carrots ; sea rough ; putting palings on fence ; came home, got jolly ; Mac, ditto ; Paddy, ditto, ditto. July 2nd. — Not feeling too well ; put up one panel of fence to the rocks ; two crawfish ; going to the devil as fast as I can. August lst. — Showery from S.W. ; saw stranger travelling north ; stranger drank one bottle of gin, and sneaked another. August 2nd. — Set speckled hen on

nine duck eggs ; hens laying a hurricane. August 4th. — Found poor Tibby dead on terrace ; good goat, gave a pint night and morning. August 14th.— Wet day ; went to poor 's funeral ; coming home got jolly ; bed at 12 p.m. August 15th.— Drizzly kind of day ; feel bad. Billy, you are a bad lad ! Our next expedition was the ascent of Mt. Faraday from the Four Mile, where we camped for the night in a convenient sleenercutter's tent near the foot of the mountain, and the following day climbed the mountain, with every condition favourable. As I hope at some future time, when I have some photographs available, to devote an article to the peaks of the Paparoas, four of which I have scaled, I will not enlarge on the subject here. The following day we went crawfishing to the Seal Rocks with Billy as guide. We had great expectations for he assured us that the rocks were, at times, red with them, a statement which we received " cum grano salis." We were well provided with lines, bait, provisions and a goodly supply of ginger-beer, which, by-the-way,is the fashionable beverage in the district, No sooner do you set foot in a settler's house than you are made heartily welcome ; the wife places tempting delicacies before you and invites you to fall to, whilst the husband busies himself in uncorking ginger-beer bottles, and on several occasions I felt quite ashamed of my companion's lack of restraint. One settler whom we visited had invented a very satisfactory blend of ginger-beer and mead, and on some of those sultry January days, after a hot tramp, our route could almost have been traced by the rows of empties in our wake. We were always expected to be bpth hungry and thirsty, and, strange to say, we always were.

But to return to our fishing. The Seal Rocks can only be reached at low water on spring tides, as then the connecting reef is laid bare, and the local sportsmen go on at low water, fish on the tide, and leave again when the

water on the reef can be waded

Good hauls of butter-fish, rockcod and hapuku are often made, and according to Billy " whins of crawfish," as the saying is. On this occasion we secured one " horned cod," I think they called it, a spiky-looking object which our guide told us was excellent eating, but " I ha'e ma doots." When we found sport so poor we left the enthusiast to it, and set out to explore the blow-hole. Seal Rook, or island, as it is generally called, is cleft by a long tunnel-like fissure in which the restless waters continually chafe and growl, but m heavy northerly weather the waves hurl themselves into this narrow cavern, and dashing against the obstructing rock, throw up a column of spray a hundred feet or more, with a sound like the dull boom of a cannon. It is only seen to advantage in rough weather ; its

efforts were very feeble during our stay. . Billy's claim was inspected next day ; he had prepared us for a novel sight, by telling us that it was only a man with the heart of

five hundred thousand lions that would ever attempt to work such a claim. It is approached by steps cut in the solid rock, which zig-zag up the face of the cliff, and on reaching the top a wilderness of stones greeted our gaze ; stones piled up in innumerable heaps ; walls of stones built with infinite labour ; stones in pyramids — ornaments of the labours of Billy and his mate during the last thirty years. On enquiring as to the amount of the precious metal which he had obtained from this colossal stone-heap, he quoted the Cornishman who remarked under somewhat similar circumstances : " Where the gold be, there it lies ; where the gold bain't, there be I !" Our last excursion was a twodays' trip to Bullock Creek, where we were the guests of Mr O'Brien, and from here we made the ascent

of Mt. Bo vis. O'Brien described the country around his farm as being of a " flat, hilly " nature, and so we found it ; but we also observed that it was good grazing land, as all the stock were rolling fat. In his paddocks it is no unusual occurrence for a huge rata tree to disappear bodily — here to-day and gone to-morrow — and nothing to mark the spot where the ground caved in but a pool of water with some gravel scattered around, and perhaps a few of the tree's topmost twigs showing above the water. We had intended returning by the beach and visiting some very fine caves which have been found there, and we have since regretted that we chose the Fox's River route, as I believe that we thus missed seeing one of the finest sights in the district. We counted between twenty and thirty fords on the walk homewards, but as the river was low they were not formidable.

What an ideal tour it would be from Greymouth through this country which I have described, returning by way of the Buller Gorge and Reefton, if the road, which is now in a disjointed condition, were only completed, I feel confident that a very popular tourist route would be at once established. There would be infinite variety, for the river gorge scenery is magnificent, and not to be surpassed ; the glistening ocean beaches are firm and excellent to travel over, and there is the ever present thunder of the surf as it breaks upon the shelving sands ; the mountain peaks of the Paparoas possess countless beauties ; and for the artist and photographer the bold sea cliffs and wave-worn rocks, around whose bases the kelp waves to and fro on the restless surge, provide splendid material for sketch and photograph. The time of departure comes all too soon ; our baggage was ready for the pack-horse, our adieux made and reckoning paid — a too modest reckoning to our minds, as it was not equivalent for value re-

ceived. We said farewell to Billy with reluctance, for he had proved to us a most entertaining companion, and his original sayings had provoked many a laugh. He sang " The Bonnie Hills of Loch Lomond " to us with great gusto, as he leaned over the bar counter, and gave us his blessing ere we departed. We had thoroughly enjoyed our summer holiday, and

were bronzed, lean, and as hard as nails. As we wended our way homewards we had the satisfaction of knowing that we had been amongst a most hospitable people, and scenes which were wondrous fair, also that the weather had been as favourable as if made to order — three conditions which never yet failed to make a perfect holiday.