A Tramp off the Beaten Track

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, Volume 1, Issue 8, 1 May 1900, Page 595

A Tramp off the Beaten Track

CMIT- EO-MOISTT)-

By H. J. Bauhagk.

Illustrations from Photon, hij C. W, Bnhbage.

fOME years ago, accompanied by some t friends, I took a trip up Mount Egmont to a lake not very wv\\ known, even yet. Starting from Hawera, "we rode to Dawson's Falls, and camped there for the night. Next

Kapnupokonni. Crossing ridges and valleys covered with bush, we came to a small dill", at the bottom of which extended a vnlley, v quarter of a mile wide, up which wo travelled, until stopped by a high bank extending right across. On reaching it wo

morning we shouldered our blankets and were surprised to hear a roshing noise like tent, and proceeded round the mountain to water above our heads. Climbing up, we the left, passing a very pretty waterfall on the were still more surprised to see a river

dashing along between this bank and high cliffs on the other side. The strangest thing was to see drift-wood on the top of the bank, showing that the river when flooded came over the top into the valley, but did not break through. Travelling some distance, and leaving below us the swampy lake discovered by the late Mr. Dawson, we suddenly found ourselves on the brink of a

precipice about two hundred feet in height. This gully had cliffs on each side, and was about eighty to one hundred feet across. We followed it round to the end, where the rook had a sheer fall of two hundred feet. Over this the water must pass in winter, as the rocks were worn away by its action, although there were only pools at this season of the year. Scrambling over

the ridge, we came upon another gaily like the first which we went round. On again, and a third rent in the mountain side appeared, this one at least three hundred feet deep, and ending in an abrupt wall of rock, down which the water must rush with terrific force in winter, it having cut and polished a channel in the solid rock five or six feet deep.

It was getting late now, and we hurried round the head, but soon camo to another immense chasm, which ran up to Fantham's Peak. It was quite evident we could not get round this one, so we started to descend it. The sides were covered with small shrubs, clinging to the face of the rock, and it was by no means an easy task grasping a bush, and feeling for one below to rest our feet on,

as they sometimes peeled off the face of the rock, leaving no foothold. Our blankets also kept catching in the boughs, so we were not sorry to reach the bottom safely. If it was difficult getting down, it was doubly so getting up the other side. However, after a hard bit of cliff climbing, we reached the top.

A few more miles of rough tramping brought us to the edge of the lake.

It is a lovely lake, about four thousand feet up, with the snowy mountain top clearly reflected in the water. On the banks were the mountain cabbage-tree and flax, with » back-ground of bush,

The lake is about !i quarter of a mile in length, and from one hundred to two hundred yards wide. The water is as clear as crystal, and through it wo could sco the stony bottom. Wo think it should bo called " Wai marama" (clear, sparkling water). We were disturbed very much in tho night

by wild cattle bellowing. In the morning we decided to ascend the mountain and cross Fantham's Peak, rather than go through the rough experience of the provioun day. Following up a ridge along a cafctlo track, we soon came to stunted bush too thick for the cattle to make a track.

through, so we had to scramble over and under trunks of trees, sometimes on our hands and knees, and at times oven on our stomachs. When it got low enough for our heads: to reach above it, we stood up and pushed through, till presently it became so dense we could actually walk on top of it, now and then taking a header into the lower regions. All the time the view kept getting more extensive and glorious — the sea with its white breakers in the distance, and the towns round the base of the mountain.

We left the low scrub, and passed through the belt of tussock grass, then the moss line and into the snow. Even at this height we saw pretty white and brown moths flitting about. The fresh, bracing air gave us a good appetite for dinner. Crossing over Fantham's Peak we descended, arriving at Dawson's Falls, where we had tea, and then caught our horses and rode out, ending a delightful trip by spending the night at a friend's place near the foot of the mountain.