LAKE WANAKA.

New Zealand Illustrated Magazine, Volume 1, Issue 5, 1 February 1900, Page 27

LAKE WANAKA.

Starting out on the road to Arrowtown, accompanied by a friend from Hobart, we found the Shotover road an excellent one for our pneumatic steeds. The way winds through the great, gloomy Shotover Gorge, a silent, everlasting witness to nature's handiwork, and a study for geologists. Passing the road to the famous Big Beach, where the Sew Hoy dredges were at work, we came into view of the foaming Shotover roaring over its rocky bed. A little further on was the Arthur's Point Hotel, the gold offices, and the Shotover Bridge Standing on the bridge, a view can be obtained of the river gorge extending far up amongst the mountains. The yellow torrent seethed and boiled over the rocks a hundred feet below on its way to join the Molyneaux. Passing Thurlby Domain, with its beautiful orchards, we reached the mining centre of Arrowtown, where we stayed the night at that comfortable hostelry the New Orleans Hotel. Next morning we were early on the road, and about 7 a.m. started up the Crown Range. About half-way up the range is a level terrace of considerable extent, known as the Crown Terrace, where miners and farmers alike seek their fortunes. From the saddle we obtained a magnificent view of Wakatipu, far behind us, with the Remarkables standing up sharp and clear, where the Kawarau Falls, the outlet of the lake, rush down to join the Molyneaux. Turning towards Wanaka, Mount Criffel, the highest goldfield in New Zea-

land, was a picture of grandeur with its snow-capped summit, standing high and clear against the sky. Reaching Cardroua, a typical goldfield settlement, and once tho abode of an army of miners of all nations, we halted for lunch. Resuming our journey we came into view of Mount Aspiring, the Matterhorn of the Southern Alps, with its miles of snow and ice-fields glistening in the sunlight, and a little further on lay Pembroke and Lake Wanaka. How gloriously beautiful, was our first thought on seeing the lovely lake reposing majestically amidst its setting of wooded slopos and lofty mountains. Wo found the good cheer of the Wanaka Hotel very acceptable aftor our ride, and when evening came bringing a superb calm, we rowed far out into tho still waters till we rested on our oars boneaththe shadow of the mighty, snow-clad peaks. The moonlight, glorified with its transforming radiance, tho pure snowfields, tho huge rocks, the dark forest, and tho quivering waters. Over all was spread the delicious calm of a perfect night, when ail nature rests, content in her own perfection, and turns the thoughts of the beholdor to higher things, compelling him to read tho losson of perfection and completion she teaches. Life and its petty affairs fade before tho contemplation of the perfect works of God ; the mysteries of life and death pass away in the presence of the solemn, mysterious feeling that we stand in the sight of the Creator, and the solitude- -impressive, wonderful, vast — steals to the soul with a sense of the immensity of eternity, and the great hereafter hidden from us by the curtains of death.

Next morning we boarded the steamer at Pembroke wharf, and were soon steaming up the lake. On either side the luxuriant foliage of the birch forest stretched down to the water's edge, with hore and there a deep ravine, where gleamed the silvery spray of a waterfall, and the tiny leaflets of the maiden-hair, the plumed fronds of tho double crape, and the graceful palm-like leaves of the tree-fern bent over the rushing stream; where the thrush and robin joined together in a chorus of song in the scented shade,

and all nature seemed to call to the weary traveller to come and rest.

Reaching Manuka Island, we climbed up through the beautiful shrubbery to the side of the little lakelet in the middle of the island. This beautiful little sheet of water, 480 feet above the level of the lake below, is one of nature's mysteries, for its origin and its depth are alike unknown. Standing by its edge and looking out through a foreground of noble trees, we were at a loss to

find words to express our wonder and delight. Beneath us the great lake stretched away amongst the mountain fastnesses, in front the forest-clad slopes of Mount Alta, while above the dark bush, the white snowfields of this glorious peak caught and reflected the sunboams with dazzling brilliancy. The two other giants of the Buchanan Range -.— Blaok Peak and Niger Peak — reared their noble spires to the left. Further up the lake appeared the mighty battlements of the Minaret and Twin Peaks, and the Makawa

Mountains, and in the distance, on the right, Sentinel Peak towered in all its majesty. Turning round, we could distinguish the magnificent head of Mount Grand view at the south of Lake Hawea, and nearer at hand, between the two lakes, Mount Burke and Mount Gold.

Resuming our journey and passing close to Isthmus Peak, we halted opposite Estuary River, and landing on the isthmus between the two lakes, sought a poiut of vantage

where to the right and left stretched Lake Hawea, and in front appeared the beautiful Corner Peak. Time, however, was limited, and taking a last look at romantic Hawea Lake, we boarded the steamer again, and steamed up past the slopes of Sentinel Peak till we reached the head of the lake at the outlet of the Makarora River. Here we were in the midst of magnificent mountain scenery, with Mount Albert and Turret Peaks on the west, and the McKerrow Range, Triplet Mountain, and Terrace Peak

to the eastward ; and it was with a feeling that we were leaving a charmed world that we saw the steamer turned on the return journey to Pembroke.