Fashion Notes from Paris.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIX, Issue 23, 4 June 1913, Page 70

Fashion Notes from Paris.

(By a Parisian Expert.)

PARIS, March 21. Indication,s of coming modes bear out the prophecy that this will be a season of greater variety, and a much wider indulgence of the personal note in dress. The present toilettes certainly show great fantasy. They provide variety in appearance of (silhouette by complication of cut. Draped dresses, cut in a father complicated way, which strike the note of the present fashions, very often have a very different appearance in back and front, and if we apply this rule in a general way, we explain the curious fantasy found in some of the latest toilettes. Sometimes the tunic movement is’ only accentuated at the back, and .sometimes only appears in the front; jnd the .same thing may be said of draperies. Cut-away coats will be worn this spring, and coats cut-away in front and turned back behind in two triangular revers—very smart. Others are made on Japanese lines, with the waist short in front and long at the back. This caprice is not at all-displeasing. Of course at the beginning of a new season there are always ugly dresses in plenty'. In fact, we are forced to have them with us. By ugly dresses I mean those where, owing to the manner of the trimming or the cut of the coat and skirt, the lines are destroyed. A tailored dress, without good or (simple lines, is hideous. When choosing a new tailored dress it is advisable to study one’s height and the wayone carries oneself. As I have just said, cut-away coafs will be fashionable, and most women can stand a cut-away coat., but every woman cannot do so. The coat I would recommend would be quite different in each case. For instance, one Woman may have quite a long coat, with a decided tapering towards the feet, yvlnle another would be given the most modest-looking coat with a suggestion of the crossed levers at. the back. As for “les fantasies” in coats, I would recomittend much discretion in the choosing and the wearing of the same. The skirts of tailored suits continue to be exaggeratedly short. ’ Some dresses, indeed, do not hesitate to display all the lower part of the leg, and even the calf of tlie leg. Three dre&ses are often open at top also, which reduces them to then' simplest expression, and takes us back fo flie eccentricities of the Empire period. But it w very difficult to succeed in such a delicate matter a.s a draped skirt, The (slightest change in the line may piake them appear either delicious or ridiculous, according to whether they have or have not been made to fittingly tramslatd the feminine esthetique. A Faris Frock. . • — .Evening gowns arc just now occupying fine attention of the authorities to a great extent, and the prettiest of little frocks is carried out in shell pink crepe de chine, with the jup • edged with a trellis-work of crystals bordered with ‘ icicle” fringe. This is a fascinating little exponent of the Empire period, perfectly simple in style ami made with a very high waist, which is outlined

with a tiny cording of the material, into which both the corsage and the skirt are gauged. The deeolletage is cut square, aud to accentuate this there is a serried row of large Roman pearls embedded in clusters of seed pearls, the short sleeves being similarly treated. Our Sketch. Very fascinating is tho evening gown of our sketch, which is a lovely shade of old gold crepe supreme and ehicon. The corsage is draped in such a way that one side of the bust' is covered with

the beautiful embroideries in silver and saphires, and the other simply veiled unde mousseline de soir, ton sur ton. The skirt is draped in a clever and unexpected manner, and trimmed with the same handsome embroideries; while a narrow train lengthens the silhouette gracefully.

Youthful Costumes. Women are certainly dressing in a juvenile way, and perhaps they are right to protect themselves. Qui salt? In my humble opinion, it certainly is better taste to rejuvenate by a skilfully-de-signed toilette than to attempt to bring back a youthful look to a face in need of repair by means of cosmetics.

I have vivid memories of some very chic suits which I saw at a famous tailor’s establishment in the rue de la Paixi witness a coat and skirt of Jacobean red satin, with the prettiest draperies at the side, and a perfectly lovely back. Charming again another suit, in purple moire this time; the smart cutaway coat, finished with a big square collar and cuffs of soft white satin embroidered in white, the draperies of the

skirt caught by thick cords and tassels, and the bodice of chiffon ton-sur-ton; whilst a touch of petunia shows above the high belt. Very new, too, is a blue serge coat and skirt, the latter cut short in front and longer behind, and of the Chinese Mandarin order, lined purple satin, and the skirt, a pretty draped one, with the slit at the side, and a soupcon of a purple chiffon petticoat en evidence. Unforgettable is a spring tailor suit, in ochre-tinted Liberty satin, the skirt absolutely plain, save for the side slit, and the coat a cut-away affair,’’lined m rose pink mousseline de soie.