The "World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIX, Issue 23, 4 June 1913, Page 69

The "World of Fashion.

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MARGUERITE.

The Advent of the Waistcoat. THE waistcoat lias even found its way into the w realm of rest®wns in allianee with the bolero, lienee there is a host of possibilities to explore in the converting of an evening dress into one of these most desirable possessions, especially as there are signa on the horizon that black velvet or velveteen will lead the van for the bolero, and that the front of the corsage of the dress will be arranged as a waistcoat. All complicated fastenings can easily be abandoned, and the dress made to do up in front. Waistcoats of all kinds will be very fashionable with tailor suits, as well as in afternoon gowns. Tn the latter they will be surmounted by a lace vest, which will be cut in a V, thereby revealing the base of the column of the throat. That the majority of skirts will be slightly draped across to the left side is a foregone conclusion; but.Jthe woman with a limited dress allowance 'will be well advised to have those of her tailored suits made almost plain, as thereby thej- do not become dated. Blue serge and whipcord will be extensively worn: and as Turkish towelling under many names proved to even the most sceptical its admirable wearing qualities, it is sure to enjoy a period of prosperity, it never looks better than in a pale grey or navy blue..

Victorian Sleeves. Many Victorian fashions are being revived add UW'ldied to suit our present tastes. The sleeve, of duierent material from the rest of the frock, was 5 <UX“at favourite in those days, and this idea is again being used in modern dress. A poplin Viola frock in apricot crepepoplin showed sleeves of black satin. There was really a little eoat-like corsage of black satin, but this was almost hidden by prettily-shaped pieces of the apricot poplin, which fastened just below each shoulder with a large button. Underneath was a delicate blouse ot white Valenciennes lace, with pipings _of pink velvet, and a .pretty lace collar fell in deep pointe over each shoulder. The skirt was very new. It opened in _front —cut-away fashion—over an underskirt of the same material. Graceful draperies starting with stitched pleats just about the knees were taken low down round each side and into the back. A pretty touch was given by a rather high -waistbelt of black satin, over- the front of which came two blender wossed straps of the poplin. These strape were really a continuation of the skfcrt and formed an artistic connecting link between the skirt and corsage. Green, appropriately enough, is to be one of the most, if not quite the most, popular colours this season. It will Ire seen in' every possible shade, from the vivid emerald down to the palest “till* A.” There are still a number of peoj 5 who consider green an unlucky

colour, but now that it is to be Ums fashion I expect their foolish superstition will vanish. Far more worthy of respect is the woman who refuses to wear green on account of its unbeeomingness. There are some skins which seem to lose all their delicate freshness when put in close proximity to green, and when this is the case the colour, however fashionable, should always be strictly tabooed. Two Charming Blouses. There is nothing in the world «o useful as a tailormade coat and skirt. In conjunction with a silk or flannel shirt, it is the most practical wear for fthe morning's shopping expedition or business hours, while a more elaborate blouse will make it quite emart enough for afternoon teas and such-like mild ■festivities. Nearly every woman jystsesses a tailor-made of some kind, so just now the question will be what kind of blouse is most becoming. Many girls are capable of turning'out delightful confections for them selves, for with a couple of yards of satin and a. little ingenuity there is no end to the variety of designs that can be carried out. This week, therefore, I am giving you two ideas for "best” blouses that any one of you can make yourselves at home. The first model—that on the upright figure—is made of all-over lace, either shadow or Valenciennes, a kind of under-bodice, stopping short at the piped armhole and continuing up the

neck Into a very becoming Medici collar. Over tliis conies a rd ip of cream ninon, slashed at each side to show the lace, and faced back with pale blue ninon Severs, fastened with a blacik vWwt bow. The long close-fitting cleeve is of ■doubled ninon, set into the shoulder twain with a piping of pah* blue. A row of tiny crystal buttons onmnients the front and cuffs and one side of each slashing, the opposite side being worked in pale blue silk to simulate button-holes. The culls are finished with a frill of soft la.ee,and a row of the tunic buttons. to sew the latter ou with blue silk, as it greatly improves their appearance. The other blouse is for evening w,ear, and, calTted !L‘Ut in net or ninon. will lx* most becoming'. L'li>h jdiik Jiiiip/i, with black lace at the wai«st an* A frill of fine white lace at the neck, woun* look eliaruling. The belt should be of black velvet, ornamented with a spray of rutin roses. This would look equally well in cn*aiu flowered net, lined with chiffon and a touch of some bnHiant colour —purple or orange —at the waist.