Fashion Notes from Paris.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 19, 6 November 1912, Page 69

Fashion Notes from Paris.

(BY A PARISIAN EXPERT.) PARIS, August 23. First and foremost, I must certainly mention moire as the chosen fabric for the tailor-made costume for the moment. I mean, of course, the tailor-made costume de luxe. These costumes are made absolutely plain. The coats are plain, the skirts are plain, and a very simple tucked is, of course, a subtle charm about this extreme simplicity, which only the initiated will recognise. Such additions, for instance, as whole groups of buttons and particular merits the buttons will be added in quite a novel position, sucd>, for instance, as the following of the shoulder Beam. As many as twelve of fifteen tiny buttons and simulated buttonholes wilt be carried from the neck line to the shoulder. Groups of the same trimming will outline a miniature breast pocket, a chiffon blouse accompanies the suit. There . nfflet or wristband, and groups of such buttons and buttonholes will hold a coat

in place at the centre, and fasten a suggested panel at the side of the skirt. Very restrained, you see, is it not? These small fashionable additions make for smartness always, and prove particularly becoming to the slight figure of the up-to-date inondaine. For afternoon gowns, the pleated blaek chiffon, arranged over a foundation of white channeuse, is delightfully simple and seasonable. The foundation of sueh a frock is very skimpy and very narrow; sometimes as little as two yards only- being allowed for its whole circumference, but the overpleating of chiffon is, of course, considerably fuller. A handsome embroidery is introduced at the neck, waist, wrists, and again round the foot-hem, and by such means the most charming, simple and up-

to-date costirms can be arranged with wonderfully little outlay. Novelties. Amongst the novelties must be mentioned the new satin shawl with tasseled ends. These shawls are seen now upon many smart occasions, and arc exceedingly ~ graceful. Sometimes sueh shawls, or scarves, are made of double chilTon —white over blaek or black over white —and are finished with a French hem set the right way round; or even

a double flat border may bo employed if we prefer it. Such a shawl is almost an imperative possession with the collarless gown of the immediate moment. As an '• -Afterthought.’’

The up-to-date summer girt has a single butterfly embroidered on some of her linen shirt-waists —a good-luck butterfly, cleverly introduced. A charming white linen blouse I saw, had narrow pink lapels from ths shoulders, one overlapping the other, the point almost reaching to the waist, and was made witli very little fulness. Three mother-of-pearl buttons, graduating in size, were on the upper lapel. on a little white lapel just above the pink, a single large butterfly was embroidered.

A pretty idea, this—suggesting a little eoat-of-arms, added as an after thought. If there were many butterflies embroidered on one single blouse, they would look like a conventional design, but the single butterfly suggests a little goodluck charm. The white linen bags to carry with white linen suits are very

coquettish and trim this season. They are heavily-embroidered, but can easily be laundered. Later on, we shall see the same kinds of bags in white moire, in faille, and in white suede. They have been specially designed to go w : ith white cloth tailor suits.

That one could wear a white lace ami lawn blouse over black, is a notion that has not hitherto been exploited. Nevertheless, the effect is rather pleasing if the blouse is trimmed with good Irish lace, and the under slip is of black chiffon. The idea is one that can be recommended to those in slight mourning. Another variation of the scheme, is to wear a lingerie tunic over a black satin petticoat,.

Our Sketch. Now let me diacuas the charming sketch shown on this page, und specially designed for the readers of the “Graphic.” Here we see a dainty mon daine garbed in the most up-to-date denii toilette frock. It consists of a sheath of pale ochre-tinted taffetas with an overdress of ninon in the same colour. The bodice is cut on kimono lines, the round

neck showing a tucker of filmy white tulle, the cnibr<>id<Ties being in 1 wotoned tints of ochre. The skirt is highwaisted, slightly gathered, and arranged bi two tiers edged with silk fringe and iiandsotnc embroideries.