Fashion Notes from London.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 18, 30 October 1912, Page 69

Fashion Notes from London.

LONDON, September 13th. In attacking, last week, tho author of the article entitled “The Wantonness of Women’s Dress” in a scientific magazine, the present writer did so on several grounds. That part of it which was supposed to entitle it to a large space ia such a magazine was, as he who ran might read, but pseudo science, and that was quite despicable—the article was obviously written to attract eyes always looking for unwholesomeness not to remedy the evil. Regarded apart from that technical aspect, it was a mass of exaggeration. Thirdly-, pretending to do good, any woman would know well that if it achieved its object of running up the circulation of the journal, it would, with each extra copy sold, sell one extra ugly idea. But, nevertheless, there was not a little truth in several of the accusations. Where the present writer fell foul was with the things obviously not truths save in a diseased mind. There is a danger of the effect on oneself (the author in question claimed

on others) of wearing attire that the faetkiiouß mind would know to be un* refined if it were not the fashion. And there lies the snare, for assuredly fashion, though it is a mighty affair, can’t abolish, or even alter very vitally, certain laws, and when it shows signs of trying to interfere with them, then it is time to part company with the despot. It can bo dime, and-has- been v o.aers more important than ourselves, and is l»y no means the serious matter it would appear to dressmakers. • ? i . Since details of dress, deftly chosen, have power to lend all manner of charming characteristics to a woman’s appearance, as we all know they have, daintiness, firmness, neatness, originality, etc., then it must follow that others lend as undesirable an atmosphere. While not for one instant would one odmit anything but a revolting prudishness in such advice as a good girl cannot choose her dress with too great care, for a single indwerfion ay create an impression in the mind of someone that can never be remov- vet undoubtedly it is wise to be ruthless in the banning of what in other matters as well as dress would offend the canons of good taste. No Great Differences. arc to be noted in the fashions this week compared with last. Skirts arc assuredly not so tight as they wore, and si’k ones may again be pleated for street wear. One a cry effective dark tartan, one for a young girl, this week, had two inverted box pleats in the front of the skirt and an accordion pleated ruffle on the border of white creamy lace edging a V-shaped vest of fine insertion to match. ' Woollen Ruffles. attached to woollen jabots, in pure white Shetland wool, are novelties of the week. They are destined for wear with winter coats and skirts, and certainly have a cosy appearance. Tam o’ Slianters. Our deal old friend', the Tam o’ Shanier crown, has returned again with just the same jaunty air as before, and many ■will be glad to see the revival. Some are propped up at one side with a giant veb vet rose in some vivid colour. Other* have a trailing plume at one side and over the brim at'the back; The influence of ft lirake”- 31ie play ’now so successfully .running’at Sir Herbert Tree's theatre —- possibly responsible tor this, as Queen Elizabeth wears a small t *'tam’’-sha,ped velvet hat with a short feather. We. don’t near the great hat jewels now that appeared in tlipsc days, in the front. Lace Veils, black, white aiid coloured, arc still very popular. They arc nearly always pinned down now', not worn loose. Xiong, Furred Beaver Hats, sihh as have been in vogue for several a* inters past, appear again, hut so far show less tumbling than usual. A few, indeed, have nothing but a. narrow strap of bright coloured patent teat her. The Utility of Grey undisputed perhaps there is no kinder colour to the woman of slender means, but it is a shade that has drawbacks to be reckoned wiih. One is its well-known habit of making complexions inclined to paleness paler still. A fair wonuui. or blonde, can deal with this irritating fact more satisfactorily t han a dark one, and it is a good scheme if a white blou.M* is worn or a grey, to wear a black cravat avd filmy white frilling or puritan collar finishing that, or a black or violet neck rutile and hat. That at once gives a (ouch of decision that will probablv work the oracle of combining utility with becomingness. New Stock Collars, by the way. appear (lib week somewhat different from anything we’ve bad before. The -back and sides are of black satin, which is cut away to leave a cup-ehaped aperture in front, which is filled in with pleated white batiste and buttoned on. ivith tiny white pearl buttons, to the black 6it in. A graduated frill of the black satin finishes’ the top in place of t rilling. Whipcord, vvhi' hin light grey, and vi -atin like MlCfiice, was so popular through the spring and summer, now appear* in winter ihickiMMs and in shot colourings. Whipeord velveteen a description of fine cord •—fa another variation.