Fashion Notes from Paris.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 13, 25 September 1912, Page 70

Fashion Notes from Paris.

U».' a Parisian Expert

PARIS, July. H>l2

Tilings We All «Vant to Know. Although the (Band Prix lias ushered in. and to a notable extent, tin* revival of the short train skirt, there is small likelihood this will in tiny way stem the exuborance of elaborate hosiery. We are too deeply immersed in the craze tn resist the onslaught of the choice thati- now poured upon ns in the ..slrapc of stockings iiisrl with lines of lace motives, such as butterilipM, etc., together with hand embroidery. 'I he last is becoming ijuile a feature, and is beginning to take form in bold floral ditvtccM, that may perch a nee appeal to those who have a penchant fur .startling footgear. Very

charming, however, are .the small contracting spots, such as black on grey, cerise on navy blue, old gold on brown - in fact, the combinations .are endless, tinlarge establishments : keeping quite a stock of this spot hosiery, together with a striped variety, as of plain colours.

The hobble skirt is dead, but the hobble cloak has made its appearance in our midst. Made of transparent gauze, drawn into a band of embroidered net or satin, it has a distinctly restraining erfeet upon the dress which it hides. With the exception of the large and wispish train a cloak of flame-coloured chiffon drawn into a crescent-shaped band of

satin, is a reminiscence of the shawls that women used to wrap closely round themselves some fifty years ago. Other cloaks are made with straight Hat fronts, and backs are modelled upon ecclesiastical vestments. A piebald effect is produced by the top half of the cloak differing entirely in material and coloiu’ from the lower one. Millinery of the Moment. The millinery of the moment, oven when at its most extravagant, as it must necessarily be al the (fraud Prix, is infinitely more becoming and far more varied in character than was the case tliis time last year. The one idea, that of the gigantic hat massed with Howers,

prevailed before all other?*. The large chapeau is still here, but it has to share 5 the situation with a host of rivals, among which by no means the least attractive is the high-crowned postil lon-shape with curly brim that is almost universally becoming. There is a unanimous opinion among artists in millinery that black is the most fa vourable colour for Ihe complexion, and everywhere in Paris are the hats underlined in black velvet, whatever the colour of the hat. Occasionally, though, one sees a dark-coloured hat underlined in pale pink velvet. Jt is a very prettv idea, and becoming to some faces. Black lace hats with enormous lace bows arc also creating a, furore in Paris. Horticultural anachronisms, too, are just now rampant. 'The latest recruit is offered in pale blue oak and maple leaves, a white straw hat so adorned carrying in addition a giant mauve rose, and completed by one of the all-over needle run lace veils in a delicate putty shade. These veils, by the way, are a great improvement on the splash pattern varieties, recalling the Brussels taco fancy of long-time approval. Stripes Much in Vogue. Stripes will be more in vogue than ever this season. The width of the stripes and their colourings, however, vary n great deal. Black is frequently combined with royal blue or strawberry red. The latter tint has already been so much adopted that it really looks like being one of the favourite colours of the season. And. then, striped materials arc so becoming, accentuating as they do a faultless and slender silhouette. The remark might particularly apply to a costume of royal-blue ottoman, striped in white, which I saw recently. It had a very short habit back, the stripes in the skirt following the patterns of the coat in very original designs. For morning wear dainty walking suits are fashioned* in grey and black or blue and black striped materials, the broad revers showing contrasting colours, such as strawberry red or royal blue. In some models, great simplicity is affected, and really these arc just as smart as the others. For instance, a trolteur in blue serge had no other trimming but a very broad silk gallon set at the bottom of the skirt, and only sewn on the upper side. On the jacket, similar gallons encircled the hips. It looked exeecdingly smart and uncommon. , Our Sketch. Some of the new tailor model-, affect the inodes worn by the “Mcrveillenses.” Although this shape is exceedingly smart it is not easv to wear. Our illustration depicts a smart little frock of this kind. The coatee, which is of dark blue and white striped liberty, is made ‘hi I’incroyable” (falling in two tails at the back of the skirt), and with the popular Voltaire collar and cuffs, the simple skirt being of the same material. The tunic, which has a pretty scalloped edging, is of dark blue Liberty, while the very becoming chapeau is a pale pink Tegal straw, underlined with black velvet, and having for adornment a magnificent pale pink ostrich plume.