NOTIONS FROM PARIS.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 7, 14 August 1912, Page 61

NOTIONS FROM PARIS.

'(From Our Paris Lady Correspondent.)

A material which has suffered a brief eclipse, and is now being successfully revived, is lace. Dresses are veiled with it, coatees arc made of it, evening wraps are profusely trimmed with it. The smart mondaines are carrying muffs of |t posed on satin, in alliance with sunshades and ruffles to harmonise. A very pretty conceit is to have a vest of ivory,tinted lace, surmounted with a narrow neck band of the latter, edged with baby ribbon, on which lightly rests a Parisian diamond slide. In the distance, it looks as though the decolletago had not been filled in, and as the lace has a very softlening effect, those who adopt, this mode are credited with possessing a beautiful skin. There is a rumour that with the next evolution in the wheel of fashion, “butterfly” bows in lace will prove allconquering; it is hoped that such will be the case, for they are very becoming.

Fashions in Evening Cloaks. A black evening cloak is always a matter for discussion. -It can be so very smart, or so very frumpy. I think that a cloak of chiffon arranged upon French lines will meet every emergency. The very best chiffon must be used, and ropes of jet added here and there. Sometimes a network of jet added over the chiffon will suit the immediate demand, while, again, a star-shaped design, carried out in glittering jet, is even better for the purpose, and will very certainly prove as smart as smart can be. Some of us doubtless have possessions of black lace, which can be pressed into service with the best possible results. Quite lately I met a cloak of black Maltese lace, which was perfectly lovely, and suited its wearer with grace and distinction.

Gay and Pretty Coats. Semi-transparent Jong coats of coloured marquisette or chiffon, embroidered in self-coloured satin or velvet, are goodlooking when worn over white or a harmonising colour, and one of the novelties of the season is the chiffon coats whose fine foundation is usually almost hidden by inset laces and embroidery. Cretonne eoats, usually in cretonne of antique or Oriental design, and coats of a thin cotton gauze figured in similar colour and design, arc gay and pretty for certain wear, and 'here the black velvet note is very likely to be introduced. Long coats of taffetas changeable or one tone, of what the French call “veillail,”

of old-fashioned design, with shirred cords, ruches, puffs, etc., for trimming, have won summer popularity.

The Art of Putting on a Hat. “’l’m sure, I don't know what we shall lie teaching next,” said a pretty little woman whom people employ by the hour to make them beautiful. “Now we are telling women how to put on their hats, wlifaeh may seem very- simple, but it is actually complex, calling into requisition many of the crafts.

“It isn’t a case of putting your hat on the top of your head, and spiking it with your favourite hatpins—it is rather a case of adjusting it with an intimate knowledge of your own possibilities.” Take the tall 1700 top-hats—the hats of the season —they must be worn with a will and a way.' The tall top-hat requires a 'hip-tilted nose, a clear skin, and very soft fine hair without a ripple in it. It must never ‘be worn by the woman who is either nervous or tired.” “It is the same with the ‘Trianon,’ that dainty little shape with a curving brim framing the face, and trimmed with roses and Wack velvet ribbon. Such a hat would lie absurd on the head of a mature woman —-the style is for very young girls." The conversation became more interesting when my informant went on to say, “We prepare the complexion for certain hats and certain colours. Worth would never allow a woman of middle-age to wear brown; much less would he let her wear any of the grey tones next to her face”—and so on. She would have continued indefinitely, but for lack of time. Dainty Neckwear.

Never have the fashions for summer neckwear 'been daintier or more charming than they»are this season. Some of the new coque ‘boas, for instance, are almost as light and pretty as those which are carried out entirely in the most costly ostrich feathers, and where economy is an object they are worth remembering. Very becoming also, are the stoles in chiffon trimmed with marabout, while, for those summer days with a touch of chill wind, there are always the short, and even the long stoles in ermine, the queen of summer furs, since it never looks altogether out of place in brilliant sunshine. As to the cravats and jabots, the collars, and the pleated frills, their name this year is legion. For the young folks, the Peter Pan sets still remain popular, carried out sometimes entirely in lace, and sometimes in spotted lawn or embroidered cambric. The Quaker collar and cuffs have also their many votaries, and they are being very much worn on washing frocks in zephyr and linen, while in fine white muslin they have made their appearance upon gowns in grey satin and cashmere-de-soie. Infinitely more becoming, however, to older people, are the frilled and cascaded jabots of net and lace to which a high transparent collar is attached. For wearing with simple tailor-made gowns, the side frills in pleated net, or in hemstitched lawn, finely kilted, are exceedingly dainty and fresh looking. Other jabots on somewhat similar lines are carried out in real or imitation laces, and finished off with lace collar-bands to match. Some of the most effective of these jabots are made with centre pleats of fine white lawn, bordered on either side with Irish crochet lace of the finest and lightest description. Others again, are carried out in spotted net, bordered broadly with Valenciennes or Mechlin I ace. Chic Coiffures. It could hardly be called an artistic audience that was assembled at the Theatre Rejane last week. I was immensely struck by the extremely artistic simplicity with which the 'best-dressed, 'best-looking women, all dressed their hair. Curls, bands of hair, even plaits, were conspicuous by their absence, and the most attractive and most chic coiffures were those in which the hair, exquisitely brushed, was parted at side and middle, taken loosely off the ears, and rolled into a soft mass lowdown at the back of the head. Heads, like figures, which are now more, than ever matters of straight, lines, as opposed to the curves of yestervc.ir. ami from which nil suspicion of corset <is rigidly barred, are to return apparently to nature, or as near thereto as it is considered effective. Personally, I am delighted at this modern change of fashion, for it all makes for simplicity, and simplicity makes for youth, which latter quality is in these days the one and only universal desideratum.