Fashion Notes from London.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 2, 10 July 1912, Page 69

Fashion Notes from London.

(From Our Lady Correspondent.) LONDON, May 17 Unnsaal Mixture in Dress Materials. As befits a month that, usually softly sunshiny and shyly sumery, is already piling up “records” in temperature, and behaving with all the abandon of an oldtime July, shop-windows have risen to the occasion, and' the lightest and coolest fabrics are given front rank. Very graceful and aritistie are some of these, noticeably the crinkly cotton crepes or crepes of silk and wool, made in all sorts of beautiful new shades. Materials of this description call for little trimming; indeed, their character is spoiled by much. Exit Mustard.

The vivid mustard yellow, so all-pre-vailing a colour early in the spring, has evidently burnt itself out, or has been toned into a delicate biscuit colour, that now is widely seen in various soft goods. Some of these lightly trimmed with black look very well. Veiling

though not nearly so general as last year, still is seen, ami two very efleeUve gowns on view in the West End this week, that could be copied by the New Zealand home dressmaker prepared -to take a littlte trouble, were specially worthy of note. Both were really the same, with the colours reversed, so I'll describe one only. It was built for a tall, slim woman, though there's no reason why a short, slim, or even a fairly plump one should not look well in it. It had a tightfitting foundation, slightly draped at one side of the skirt, which was made a little full, of soft, dull, pale blue charmouse, with large bunches of hydrangea in various pale colours (heliotrope, pink, and blue), hand embroidered on one side of the dceolletage and the skirt; a beautifully draped tunic, with faggotted edges, of palest mauve, ninon, or marquisette veiling the left of the bodice, and right of the skvt.

Coloured Shoes and stockings, to match whatever gown worn, have laigely taken the place of black or tan. In Mending Gloves if possible, a glove-needle should bo employed, and the silk chosen should exactly match. A tear ean be mended if the edges are button-holed all round, and then drawn carefully together. A scrap of stock in-plaster, or a tiny Wad of cotton wool, in the tips of the is put by some economical wearers, and tliis undoubtedly adds to their wearing properties. Neck Ruffles which appear to be taking the plaee of the scarves of last year, are now of all descriptions, though all fasten with a coquettish knot, bow, or posy of flowers, under the left ear. Fringed shot silk, black or coloured tulle, ribbon, ninon, Crepe de chine, or very soft silk, fashioned like petals, and edged with ruehed ribbon —all are employed. The newest ones are of pleated tulle, with garlands Of tiny hand-made flowers round the middle, and these are the quaintest. Panier Hats

take one back to tales of maiden aunts and gossipy good ladies sowing parish scandals into work for the poor. They are the same old models worn long ago- -

This figure shows but little of a plain toilette de-visite of Hiick grey eharmeuse. The bodice is veiled in grey, decorated with tiny black velvet buttons, and possessed of a panel of the same material, extending down the front of the skirt. More discernible in our sketches is i> black velvet atraightly-cut coat, with an ♦naerted Zouave “emplacement” of heavy grey silk passementerie, embroidered over a charmeuse ground, with a delightful toque to match. The lines of this coat, although simple, are alike becoming to the stout and slight woman.

filack, perhaps, dipping over each ear, with flowers above the dip, and with, dangling under (he down-turned brim at the back, a bewildering network of bows and ends of ribbon. Imagination will not paint a modern woman in one of these. With skirt paniers she ought, perhaps, to seem quite consistent, but both paniers and panier hats seem so far removed from the day of motor ’buses, ot hurrying people, and not too many fine manners, that one cannot but think—whatever the stupidity of it —that a lady bo clad would be treated with the kindly wondering tolerance that would be given some innocent stepped off the stage or out of an asylum.

Hats fashioned of drap d’eponge, in light shades, and simply trimmed with a loose draping of soft white broderie Anglaise, arc cool looking innovations. Mixed Materials.

Most unusual blendings of materials are taking place in the West End dress world —a method that will prove a snare to all but the wariest and most artistic home dressmaker. One reception gown, for instance, undoubtedly handsome, proved, on close examination, to have a long, draped skirt of dull ivory cliarmeuse, with a sort of short tunic coming into a point at one side of the decolletage, ami over the other hip, and slightly down the back, which was ot very fine creamy lawtf or linen heavily hand-embroidered. The half of the bod ice not covered had a white cliarmeuse foundation, with a piquant line of very tiny mauve velvet buttons, th'e whole jbeing covered with gently pleated black tulle. There was a narrow black belt at the high waist.