The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVIII, Issue 2, 10 July 1912, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

[C\T OME of the frocks of the moment 'Kk are absolutely Puritanical in / their severity of outline. None

the less, this outline is expressed in the most costly fabrics. Coats and skirts are particularly plainly made, with the exception, perhaps, of such adventitious adornments as buttons. Plain and shot velvets (real silk velvet) trimmed with fur certainly make ideal winter garments. Nothing is more becoming than black or dark shaded velvets, with sable or chinchilla. In Paris, a white velvet eoat of fuH length has created quite a sensation. It is trimmed with a very deep border of skunk, witn a huge roll collar and wide cuffs of the same fur. The muff to match the eoat was similarly composed of white velvet and fur, and to strike a contrast it was lined with black chiffon, while the hat also was of black satin, though practically smothered in white aigrettes.

Rateen and zibeline eloths are much used by tailors, with narrow fur trimmings; but, soft and delightful as those fabrics are, they are apt to be a little heavy for stouter folk, and difficult to manipulate. Despite the continuous prognostications regarding the fuller skirt, the tailor “jupe” remains as tight as ever; while evening frocks, although long, and therefore of necessity fuller at the feet, still preserve their snaky, willowy curvatures. An Attractive Accessory.

The quaint little capes that under the second Empire were known as pelerines are making a tentative bid for favour. At the moment they are made of taffetas and moire outlined with narrow ruches, and as the warm weather approaches will be found ideal substitutes for coats and peltry. Fichu draperies in a very great variety of styles still pursue the even tenor of their way. A novelty, however, is the bretelle flehu, fashioned of embroidered lawn or lace. Over the shoulders it is

not more than three or four inches wide; as it nears the waist it -broadens slightly, when it is crossed over, and is fastened with a ribbon bow or a small corsage “poesy.” No longer is the collarless corsage deemed good taste; a collarband is a sine qua non in alliance with long sleeves. Very pretty indeed are the new chemisette or guimpe sets, both with and without sleeves, that ean be ‘utilised for bringing a last season's blo-use up -to date without the intervention of a needle and thread.

Imitation Feathers. An effective new hat is trimmed with several “plumes” of silk fringe knotted at intervals with the ostrich feather fronds of the larger Lancer feathers. Another has a still quainter imitation feather made of stone-coloured faced cloth cut into the narrowest . possible strips. A third shows three larger plumes, shaded grey to blue, of tiniest tulle ruches hanging loose. Vogue for Small Buttons.

Buttons play a large part in the outdoor and indoor garments of the nursery children this season. A pretty method of fastening a tunic is that of carrying a close double row of buttons from ■the shoulder to the hem on the left side, these being sewn on either side of the opening, while twisted loops of cord or braid connect each pair of buttons. In other eases the button-fastening is merely a blind. Large oval or round moulds are covered with silk to match, and these are carried in a straight line from shoulder to hem, while a fly-edge and row of patent fasteners perforin the real service of closing the garment.

Blue Serge Frocks and Persian Embroidery.

Nothing more sensible or practicable for children lias been invented for some time than the simple frock or overall of blue serge, with straight box-pleated front and back, the sleeves being cut in one, after the style of kimono sleeves.

The latter give place to short undersleeves of Persian embroidery, the same embroidery forming a narrow turnedback collar. These little froeks are frequently cut into a "V” at the neck, where they give place to a vest of embroidery or smocking, bordered with a piping of the same colour.