Fashion Notes from London.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVII, Issue 26, 26 June 1912, Page 69

Fashion Notes from London.

(From Our Lady Correspondent.)

LONDON, May 3.

The question is being debated in the papers a good deal just now as to how much the fashions are set by the theatres and. failing that, what it is actually that determines just what is going to be worn. There can be no doubt that the theatres are responsible for a good deal. Plays are so wonderfully staged nowadays and sp much attention is paid to the dressing of the different parts that the leading dressmakers are glad to seize the opportunity of getting an exhibition of the styles they want to introduce. But the theatres do not do it all. No doubt the great Dickens bonni we have been having this winter has something to do with, the popularity of ohi worhl styles, with the way the panicr is catching ou

for instance. VVe may have the Dolly Varden skirts with us again before long, who knows? NOT ONLY PANIERS BUT ALSO THE POLONAISE. Talking of skirts, the polonaise has made its appears nee. Some people prefer it to the paniers; it is more becoming to some figures. Paniers. whether worn short and well weighted, so as to be flat or long, or much looped up and rather

“boHfllant” are all very well for tall and slight people, but they do not do for a short, thick-set figure, and a polonaise relieves the severity of a plain skirt, and is not quite so trying. The quite plain skirts will probably disappear alter gether before very long.

COPYING OL R GRANDMOTHERS. Another early Victorian fashion which is being revived is the small white satin or broche coats, which are worn with almost anything, but which look best with a black skirt. There is a very short basque, and it is made with quite 1 small waist belt fastening with a elasm The revers and cuffs may be of black satin when it is worn with black. Even the bolero is coming in again, so there is no lack of quaint revivals, jhe short white satin coat belong* to the Louis Philippe period. SHORTER GLOVES. With a satin. taffetas, or any kind of a silk frock the sleeves arc often of i different material altogether. The armholes are cut away, ami the dross finished off then by being piqued and a ninon or lace sleeve worn. All sleeves are won? long almost on to the hand, and arc finished with lace, which falls half ov< r the hand. For such sleeves gloves of ene or two buttons are all (hat aie required,, the long gloves of last season being use less.

•- HATS VERY SEVERE. The hats are certainly getting smaller. A toque shape is much in evidence, and, although the bright weather is iq>on us the newest hats do not promise much in the way of shade to the eyes. They are also very little trimmed. Summer hats one would imagine should be gay with flowers, hut fashion has decreed it otherwise this year. There are very few Hower - trimmed hats among the models. Knots of ribbon and high upstanding aigrettes, poised at a becoming angle, is all that they have. Of course, they are not nearly as interesting as usual, nor are they very becoming. The style is too severe to suit the majority of people. TOUCH OF COLOUR IN THE SHOES.

The hobble skirt has for many months been the joy of the comic papers, who have simply tumbled over one another in their anxiety to outdo each other in saying the smartest thing they could about them. But from alt accounts, in spite of the wider skirts, women in I'aris are walking just as badly as ever, owing to the very high heels they have taken to wearing. Coloured heels seem rather the rage, especially with black shoes, an,l they go to match something in the toilette. A black or a white costume, for instance, with touches of green on the. Ikmlicp and perhaps in the hair too, might have green heels.

COLD WINDS AND SUNSHINE.

April has been a record month as regards dryness, but in spite of the brilliant sunshine we have had day after day, cold winds have been very prevalent, which made one wonder what to wear. Warmer clothing was obviously the right thing, but the clothes one has l>een wearing all the winter did not show up very well in the sun. So they had to be cleaned and sponged if one did not want to go about looking very shabby.

SMARTENING UP WINTER WEAR. Ammonia is, of course, the best thing to clean tweed coats and skirts with, but pure ammonia should never be used. It is too strong, for one thing, for if not properly diluted it would most likely ruin the colour of the costume. Then, too. it is very expensive. But a good recipe for a cleaning medium is three drachms of soft soap and six drachms of borax, dissolved in two and a-half pints of water, and with a pint of strong ammonia added. When bottled, do not use a cork, but an india-rubber plug. Even this mixture is a little too strong, and some water should be added when it is used for tweeds or cloth. It is excellent for cleaning metal surfaces, however, in its full strength, flannel being employed.