Fashion Notes from London.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVII, Issue 20, 15 May 1912, Page 69

Fashion Notes from London.

LONDON. March 22, 1912. Fashion is a ♦oibject over which it would never do to grow ironic at tlra best of times, one of which this period of strife and stress certainly is not—* for its good points are almost as apparent as its many had oner*. Its nine day wonders after nine days I income. if no leas startling to us as individuals, yet settled to comfort able commonplaces to the feminine public in general, which is ever something uf a protection to the others. The very «*nrel<*sa ease, too, ith whirl! Dame Fashion pursues her even selfish ebnrae regardless of purse, sudt ability and ftometuuoM of taste, develops, at ft

Of stripod cheviot tweed in shades of Fawn, trimmed with heavy stitching in i novel device. The collar is of velvet in a darker shade, and amber buttons complete the gown. The skirt is original in cut. and has an inverted pleat at thv back", rounded off with the heavy stitching. time like this, into a virtue. While yet more and more great manufactories are closing down and dismissing their hundreds and thousands of workers on account of the coal strike, when theatres are suffering ’so badly that long lines of empty seats' have com pet! e I managers to decide that "ehort runs only" must be <he fate of every play produced at prof*ent, when prayers of intercession nre being offered every day in the churches for a cessation of the strike, when, from the King to the humblest of his subjects, arrangements are being upset through synvpathy or dire necessity, stilt Fashion remains imperturbable—a monarch wielding just as despotic a sway as if alt were going well. This week two very definite fashions have ‘ arrived.*’ One that has shown feigns of popularity for «■> »me weeks past js a colour, and that the mustard shade ot whkh I wrote in my last notes. This week it shows in everything, from feather boas to bat trimmings, from those to pipings, revers, and buttons on coats and skirts, from whole costumes to evening coats, bouts, shoes, stockings, and blouses. A NEW MATERIAL. The second novelty is a cloth, called by some bath towel cloth, by the initiated drap d’sponge. The first named, though certainly not expressing its elegance well, x et gives an idea of its appearance whieti would rank it own aider t > a not too bulky or fluffy bath towel—it is, rath r, a cross between that and the "Oatmeal cloth” of twenty vears ago. What mustard is among colours drap il’sponge is among materials, sharing honours with shot taffetas in being ab solute queen of the dress world. It is made in all sorts of union rs, though mainly iu light f.iwn-, mustard, blue, green. white, grey, mauve, etc. Crystal

or dull gilt button* generally finish coats and skirts of it, with revers of face cloth, charmeaise. taffeta*, or itself in a contrasting shade. TANIERS NOT A SVCt 'ESS. According to a certain Court dressmaker, she is having some trouble with her clients, who flatly refuse to let her garb them iu paniers ! After the gratifying failure of the harem skirt to become fashion law in England, when a Parisian man designer ordered that it should be, there is hope that Englishwomen may set their wills agaipst., the old-fashioned panier that will, all too probably, follow the modified shape now fairly general on evening gowns. Already one dressmaker is trying to bring back paniers so arranged as to look like bustles at the back of skirts. THE ORIENTAL NOTE, apparently so distinct at the conclusion of the sales and beginning of the spring styles, has faded away before the introduction of shot silks and is not now much seen, Russian embroideries, however. are. as small yokes on serge and silk indoor gowns, collars above the lexers on coats and skirts, and as deeolletage trimming, the last generally under ninon or mousseline-de-soie on evening confections. SC ARV l> still remain, though lit is doubtful whether they’ll live through a third year ot intense popularity. One very effective one of this week might l>e copied by a girl fond of stencilling, and was of black ninon stencilled all over in gold iu a design of small ivy leaves. The edges were of black charmeuse. The same design in silver on white would be very pretty. VERY LONG SLEEVES are to be noted on practically all the newest gowns for the street and the reception room. These are straight, but fairly- loose, and are generally made of the silk or, at- any- rate, the colour with which the dress is trimmed, and not the material of which it is made. Ruelung* of Valenciennes’ lace edge most of the sleeves, which are pointed and made to fall over the hand. Shot silk blouses only- show elbow sleeves, again edged with full narrowfrills of lace, which appears also as aside jabot. VERY THIN OSTRIC H FEATHER'. and very- inartistic ones, he it whispered, iu mustard colour or white, trim many of the latest hats, which themselves are of dark straw. Without any regard for beauty- or grave, these expensive wispy arrangements are trailed round a crown or «tand stark upright like the signal of a lost fight in ostrich land. Large three-cornered black hats, with turned back brim, showing rows upon tows of cream Valenciennes lace overwhite satin, are again popular.