Fashion Notes from London.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVII, Issue 5, 31 January 1912, Page 69

Fashion Notes from London.

(From Our Lady Correspondent.! LONDON, December 8, A transformation has taken plaeb within the last few days in Paris in methods of hairdressing, and will doubtless affect the heads and, later, the gowns of Englishwomen also. Thert has been a feeling for some time that a change of coiffure would be gratefully received, but how this latest one will down remains to be seen. Instead Of puffs and numberless little (false) sausage shaped rolls of hair built just over the nape of the neek, or generouf . oils of real or false hair elfilmrately coiffured and curled, and fluffy front dfl* ■ ■orations, Parisian ladies have adopted a severe style of hairdressing, letting their Jocks, if curled, lie in stiff WWW;

parted, .pimply, down the centre, and rolled at the back of the neek into coils. •

The same old swathed horrors of evening turbans and ornaments are to be worn still, it seems, and put on over such tightly-done hair their effect is most unbecoming and ludicrous, though, I doubt not, we shall become used to it as to all else in time. , ; Some dresses now seek their completion in a band to be worn round the •hair, after the manner of a sick head nehe bandage, down almost to a level of the eyebrows. One such I saw this week; an evening gown of ivory charmeuse, outlined, tunic fashion, with wreaths of roses on ivorv silk, the whole

veiled in purple tulle, a further wreath of the roses ornamenting the bodice and embroidering an ivory satin, hair bandeau to match. THE HAREM INFLUENCE is still, if such a fact can be believed, hankered for by some of the great dressmakers, and one evening gown of this week; quite graceful and' simple in most particulars, had, at one side of the skirt, the startling decoration of a round huge rosette of coloured silk at the left knee, below which the skirt was vandyked into a division that brought the calf of the wearer into full view and made the wearing of a petticoat an impossibility. A tiny demure frill of black tulle on the

white silk of the dress but served to emphasise the fact that the gap was some five inches wide! In.every other detail the dress was an ordinary one. SKIRTS are still “slim” —that is to say, an average fashionable walking one is still not more than a couple of yards round the hem, a vast improvement on those of a season or two ago, and, it must be admitted, a trim and heat-looking garment. The separate baek panel is still often seen, though its doom was prophesied long ago. Coats are beautifully catholic, some three-quarter length, some short, some elaborately braided, some quite plain, others with broad revers or only one, others with no revers at all, but, instead. a small Hat velvet collar. Black and white materials of all descriptions and dark cloths and velvets striped with thin white lines, are still as popular as ever. Evening skirts are to be very narrow, we are told, some only 45 inches round! WHITE DACE BLOUSES are again being displayed in great numbers and all sorts of fascinating fashions, but the prejudice against skirts and blouses that do not match is as great as ever. It must be acknowledged, even by those who liked the old economical style, that constituted one 'black silk skirt an accommodating friend to be worn with half a dozen different evening confections, that the newer idea of a skirt and blouse that match makes for a much better and more stylish effect. HIGH COLLARS ONCE MORE. From the no-collar fashion we are bidden go to the other extreme, and nearly strangle our necks in high bands of lace over chiffon. Blouses are generally made with a vest of the same lace, and there can be no doubt that, for womankind in general, the new style is a deal better than the old no-collar arrangement, which brought into prominence every unyouthful wrinkle or telltale scragginess. A soft disposal of lace or chiffon suits nearly everyone, as long as it is not overdone and the wearer made too much befrilled. AN EVENING COAT of great beauty, displayed a few days ago, was of pansy-coloured satin lined with soft grey charmeuse, and interlined with flannel. The high neckband was of white fox fur, and the wide cuffs, turned back to show the grey satin, were also edged with the fur. White hare or white rabbit could be very effectively used for this if anyone eared to copy it, as electric or gas light is invariably kind to fur, lending it an accommodating richness of appearance. A GIANT ROSE in silk, satin, or velvet, worn at the belt of an old evening gown will often give it quite a youthful and piquant effect, especially if the colour of the ornament is carefully chosen. LONG SLEEVES were perhaps to be expected when high collarbands reappeared, but the former have raced the latter. The new sleeves

may merely be long, plain and close, finished with a frill of net or muslin falling over the hand, or, .as in smart blouses; of the bishop order, with or ■without tiny vertical tucks to relieve their plainness. Cuffs on the sleeves of gowns are also, it is predicted, to return to favour, and we are likely, too, to have kimono sleeves, of a modified description, with us soon. USEFUL HINTS. It is not generally known, perhaps, that a little powdered orris root (quite easily procured from any chemist) placed in the water in which fine linens and lingerie are boiled, after washing will give them a deliciously faint aroma of violets after they are ironed. White felt hats can be rejuvenated by' being gently rubbed with fine white oatmeal, then vigorously brushed first with a stiff and then with a soft hat brush. The trimming must first of all, of course, be removed. Lace yokes or sleeves should be cleaned with powdered starch or French chalk rubbed in slightly, then left inside the rolled up articles for twelve hours. After this a clean soft brush should finish the work by brushing all the powder and the dirt out.