SWEET PEA CULTIVATION.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 17, 26 April 1911, Page 40

SWEET PEA CULTIVATION.

(iFrom “Garden Life.”) An extremely interesting paper, having for its subject the ’cultivation of this favourite annual, was read by Mr. George Herbert at the Sweet Pea 'Conference, held in London, from which we quote the follow ing ex tracts: — In sweet pea culture, more especially for exhibition purposes, the secret of success lies in the preparation of the ground. No matter how good the variety, or how clever the feeding, if t'he ground is not thoroughly prepared, one cannot reasonably expect good blooms, at least not such as are required to win prizes at the best exhibitions. I have found a fairly heavy soil suits sweet peas lx»st, as they continue flowering for a much longer period, mid produce finer blooms, as a rule, than if grown on a light soil.

PREPARING THE GROUND. The ground intended for sweet peas should l»e trenched to a depth of two ami a half feet to three feet, and this should be done as early in the autumn as possible, to allow t'he soil to settle down during the winter. When trenching have the two top spits turned from one trench to the other, ami the subsoil, whether clay or sand, dug a foot deep, adding to it' plenty of good rotten manure, leaves, and bonemeal. If there is a clay’ subsoil, give it a good dressing of lime and ashes previous to turning the two top splits from the next trench on to it. Many people put manure a foot thick at' the bottom of a trench, and none anywhere near the top, and the consequence is that all the time the plants should be making rapid progress, they are at a standstill, and by the end of the season they have just found the manure, and are doing their best when the frost comes. Make the soil quite firm, and as the trenching proceeds, slightly tread down each bottom layer as it is put back (provided it' is not too wet). The top is left as rough as possible to allow the weather to do its work. Early in the spring, before planting, a thin layer of short manure is spread on the ground, and a light dressing of lime and soot over the top. and the whole is forked in; directly the soil is dry enough, it is

trodden firmly, and it is then ready for planting. For exhibition purposes, I prefer rows to clumps, and allow eighteen inches from plant to plant for strong growing varieties. All are planted in double rows, but individual plants are not placed opposite one another. Twelve inches is allowed between the double row. This allows the air to circulate between the plants as they are growing, and keeps them from becoming sappy through overcrowding. Plant firmly and place small twigs round each plant at once. DISBUDDING FOR EXHIBITION. When the plant's are growing well, three of the strongest shoots on earch should be retained and all lateral growths removed. This applies to the stronger growing varieties, such as Elsie Herbert, John Ingman, etc. Nancy Perkins and Earl Spencer will do better with two stems or even one stem. If the more vigorous varieties do not have more than one stem, coarse blooms often result, and these badly placed on the stem. The lateral growths should always be removed when young, simply rubbing them out' with thumb and finger. This early disbudding saves a great deal of time, besides allowing all tiie strength of the plant to go to the haulm which has to produce the exhibition blooms. The growths should be trained on the out-

side of the sticks, and this can easily lie managed by an occasional tie. It is advisable to examine the sweet pea every day. for when about three feet high the plants rapidly increase in strength, and the tops get heavy, so that if there should lie a rough wind or heavy shower, and the tendrils do not happen to l>e in reach of a stick to cling to, the growths snap off or become so tSvieroA s- ♦ -- ’ them. At this weather is warm . .. 6 over in the ever., g is a great help to sweet peas. MULCHING. About the middle of summer if the weather is at all dry, give a heavy mulch of long manure on each side of the row. This keeps the ground cool and moist. The Dutch hoe should be worked freely round the plants during the growing season. as this is a great help, more especially if the weather is dry. If late Howers are wanted from the same plants, it is a good plan to cut back alternate plants to one of the strong lateral growths that keep showing at the bottom of the haulm. This should be done about six weeks before the blooms are needed, and by keeping the early buds picked as they appear, the laterals will soon gain strength to produce good blooms.