FASHIONLAND.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLVI, Issue 13, 29 March 1911, Page 69

FASHIONLAND.

FASHION NOTEW FROM LONDON. LONDON, February 10. It is somewhat of a marvel to mo that in this age of remarkable imitations, counterfeit sunshine has never been patented by an enterprising commercial philosopher. It is hard, perhaps, for a person who has not lived in the heavy and depressing atmosphere of a London winter, to imagine the extraordinarily vivifying effect of a sudden day of sunshine. The blessed radiance seems to affect everything, generally “buck it up,” and instil a wonderful interest into all things one has to do with. We have bad a little sunshine lately, and about a fortnight's fine weather, and for such small mercies one learns to be grateful indeed. The shops quickly respond to the mood of the weather, and dainty delights greet the feminine eye on all sides now. Hats, dear reader, let me tell you, by way of a preliminary, are not only large, but very, very large, though Madame Fashion has permitted us quite an unusual freedom in following her, for some of the new spring models are also moderate in size and in trimming. Black lace veils are to be worn with bright coloured straw hats, and Ihuge cluster of flowers provide the most popular trimming. One large shop in Kensington is showing very pretty tennis gowns, made of viyella, finished off with buttons and belt of cloth and suede combined, to match. At last two beautiful—and these very beautiful —styles of gowns are prepared for the Englishwoman if she will but buy them, and recognise that all her most graceful and lovable attributes will be accentuated by them. These arc Puritan and Quaker dresses, designed in the rich and soft silks so much seen now. One model I was shewn on Tuesday was of dove-eoloured eharmeuse, the elbow sleeves turned back with Irish lace sewn plainly on. The skirt was in simple tunic fashion, the overskirt open

*t the to show • snrall panel of Iri»h lace, and the front forming a sort of apron edged with narrow lace to match. Thia particular gown was intended for evening wear, and the decolletago was of folded over whits mousseline de soie, a broad fichu of the same beautiful material edged with lace falling without pleats of any kind, over the shoulders. The belt of pale grey was

pointed in the front, and the whole Costume was a most artistic and oharming success. Another such gown I saw was in pale biscuit colour, and this, for day wear, has a zigzag of charmeuse, made into a kind of rope over the folded white vest of mousseline. . Some of these models are short-waisted, and have a flat basque over the hips at the sides only, and not all have the apron effect.

THE HORRIBLE HAREM. Cavil at it as we will, the harem skirt has come -to London, and so devotedly does one great dressmaker pin her faith on its success that she had just concluded a three days’ show, on mannequins, of “harem creations,” showing the trouser skirt in various forms and materials, and for day and evening wear. All the examples of the new vogue, though they varied in details, agreed in one particular. That was the manifestation of the very full Turkish trousers 'made of filmy chiffon or satin, braceleted at-the ankles with velvet or flowers and finished with soft frills that fell over the instep. 'Some of the dresses were provided with long wisp-like trains, others were short. One costume showed the tunic at both sides to reveal a peep of the trousers beneath; another was caught up in front for the same purpose; and in a third case it was at one side only that the full trouser showed, and it was almost entirely veiled by means of a chiffon sash drapery knotted just above the ankle. The trousers and the kilted skirts are separate garments from the dress, and both are made to fit the hips without a wrinkle, so that the sheath can be assumed over it.

EXIT CORSETS. If on Paris we lay the blame for introducing this outrageous mode, to that city we must be grateful for another it is trying to bring in—that of giving up corsets. The Djibbah tunic is thought to 'be responsible for this, since it does not require an artificially small waist, ‘but, instead, shows to the fullest advantage a straight, well-poised and supple body. The short Empire gown (so fashionable now across the water), that has merely a cord tied round the waist in lieu of a sash or waistband, also suppresses all necessity for a corset for the wearer wlho knows the science of holding herself as she should. When the gown is very clinging and simple in cut, and the figure of the wearer fairly slim, the waist-line is hardly suggested. The result of these very simple modes is that ■one can now fashion a gown out of less than four yards of double-width material for a moderately “large” woman.

A SILLY STYLE. There are some dressmakers who, when reasonable ideas as to new styles fail to present '.themselves, apparently fall back bn the most idiotic mode they can invent. Surely this is not too harsh a criticism of the “uneven skirt.” This may have the front and back the ordinary length, and the sides three or four inches shorter, or the sides may be long land the front and back short. No one can possibly say it is either pretty or useful. An innovation from France is the skirt trimmed with a band, or bands, of a different colour. For instance, if the skirt is of navy blue, it is trimmed with bands of red or green, or, in fact, any contrasting colour. One dress that came from Paris showed a startling treatment of this style, the skirt being trimmed with no less than three wide bands, every one of which was of a different colour. (Short bell-shaped sleeves lined with satin of a different’colour are being introduced on some of the new spring frocks for indoor wear.