Simplicity of the New Tunic Frocks.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 19, 9 November 1910, Page 69

Simplicity of the New Tunic Frocks.

FOBS AND AGAINSTS OF THE WIDE HEM. THE tunic frock is growing appreciably plainer. Never has its simplicity been more marked than it is at present, and never has it required more careful making on the part of the amateur eeu>tnriere. Every woman who has attempted to master the primer of home dressmaking has, in faet, learnt that whereas she may make a hiding-place for her faults of cut and finish behind a multiplicity of tucks and shirtings, flounces and furbelows, she stands or falls entirely by her own skill where ithe plain gown is concerned. A BEAUTIFUL THEATRE FROCK. The newest examples are stretched smoothly over the bust and shoulders ■without a hint of fulness, while the ekirts of the tunic should be equally plain and smooth over the hips, and ehould come Ito a termination no lower than the knees.

SKIRTS AND SLEEVES. The scheme of gathering the material of the skirt into an immensely wide hem, which is so generally adopted just noir, is another expedient which requires very careful handling if the gown is to be made at home. As a rule, lit is better for the success of the gown that the material should be put flat into the hem, as unless the work is carried out very carefully, it is apit to make the figure look considerably larger round the hips in contrast to the plainness and scantiness of its base. It has beside a frequent tendency to pull or drag to one side. A more successful effect, if the ]upe is ito be full and gauged, is that of gathering it over instead of under the hem, with a little old-fashionedl heading. All the new frocks for day wear in Paris ar London show the sleeve which falls below the elbow. The "couvre eoude” length is, in faet, the feature of the moment, and even when not designed io reach, to the wrist it is often finished by the little frill of gauffered lace or lawn. RIB ON BELTS. Belts are narrow rather than wide, but with ithe simple lawn or batiste frock worn by a girl there ie no serious

rival to the wide ribbon wound twice round the waist, and tied in a bow with long ends at the side. Although thd very simplest of expedients possible, il> keeps the waist trim and taut, and can bo damped and ironed ad infinitum, co as to give it (lie right freshness and crispness each time it is put on. With ithe white linen eoat and skirt, the white net blouse, and large blaek hat, will be more than ever popular The tiny black eatin tie which fastens the plisse frill at' the throat will supply « finishing touch to ithe scheme. The fiat has gone forth in Paris that the hats of the immediate future will foe slightly smaller than was the case a short while ago, and some quite medium-sized models are, besides, on the

list of novelties. A charming type of headgear for river wear is that which is earned out in white or natural coloured straw, o*<« which is smoothly stretched a covering of embroidered white lawn which terminates a little above the edge, showing an Inchwide baud of black satin as a hem. The lawn ia cut ints large eyelet holes round the crown, and through this is threaded a wide ribbon, which u tiuHh.-d with a big, soft bow on one aide. THE ÜBIQUITOUS MARGUERITE. Some pretty hats of pale mist-grey basket straw are trimmed with wh: e gauffered frills of wide Valenciennes laee, above which is a thick roll of grey satin j and an immense bunch of grey velvet marguerites with black centres pocurs on one side. Marguerites have had, in faet, a popularity this season which is second to none, and have even tanked before the übiquitous pansy as a mourning flower. Fbr evening wear bunches of huge black velvet pansies liave been used as corsage flowers, being tucked into the lace of the gown in front, while among the black hats there have been not a few models, the crowns ot which have consisted solely of a mass or black marguerites crushed closely togetEer. NEW VEILS. Frenchwomen who fear freckles are wearing veils falling loosely round the bats in a fine make of black lace, Number* of light, clear-meshed fancy veils without spot' are. likewise used with the large hats, and these are best when pinned round tho face securely. This is easy to achieve by drawing the veil in toft folds undex the chin. pinning the lower parts oi the Hair fust above the t ‘nuqua’’ with a hairpin or brooch, and raising the rest amowthlv ever the brim.