The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 18, 2 November 1910, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

The Graceful Tunic.

tunics of long lines, f 7 leaving but little of the underdress showing are to be seen just now, the fastening running from the shoulders down the side of the front well on to the skirt part either in a straight effect or from the left shoulder to the right knee. One dress of this type is in cashmere de soie, in a light shade of blue, and the braided buttons which form the fastening are caught with tabs of the braid in a pointed shape. These buttons and tabs run up the sleeves, and the tunie at each side of the back, and the tiny vest of white silky net is finished with a clerical tab in fine white lawn bordered with a line of braid. J* For the Slender Woman, Some of the over-bodices or cuirasses are quite smooth-fitting, but they can only be worn by the slender, hipless figures. Thg lines of these dresses are cut quite straight, the curve below the waist being obtained by a shaped inset of the material, which comes from under the arm on to the sides of the skirt part below the waistline. This inset widens out at places to give the necessary fulness, and the under-dress, which joins the cuirass at the knees, is almost tightfitting. A quaintly pretty gown is that cut with a fish-wife skirt, the turned-up tunie lined with a contrasting- colour being looped and knotted at the back. The apron drapery at both back and front is held in place by ribbon-laeed eyelets. These ribbon-laeed eyelets, which are often worked in a contrasting colour, are particularly pleasing in connection with the afternoon toilette. J* J* Favoured Fabrics, jrbulard has gone through many vicis-

situdes. Once it was relegated to the middle-aged matron, and was the fav-

ourite garden-party wear of mothers of grown-up daughters. But the middle-aged matron has worn Um same materials and the same styles as her daughter for a good many years now, and foulard became the badge of old-ladyhood. Satin shared the same fate, and was successfully rescued by the dressmakers for their youngest and prettiest clients. Last summer foulard, it was noticeable, was

regarded with ovHeat approval by smart woomu of the yuungvr generation. This season finds it raised to the proud position of being one of the moet soughtafter materials. The designs provided are of exceptional variety. Pronounced colours for the background have taken the plaee of the faint tones of last season, and the introduction of less distinct, and even shadowy patterns, is a new feature. Jt J* A Study in Grey. Tale grey marquisette over satin charmeuse is being largely used by a famous creator of modes. One dress in pale grey

marquisette, traced all over with flowers in a deeper shade of grey, was made up over white satin charmeuse. The bodice was decorated with folds of satin in three distinct shades of pink. White net frills bordered with narrow lines of grey silk, and white soutached motifs of the satin, also appeared on the sleeves and bodice. J* Decorative Guimpe. ’fhe possessor of short lengths or especially lovely materia) who wishes to

perpetrate a simple yet Tascinating-look-ing toilette cannot do bettor than ponder over the possibilities of chemisettes. A cleverly planned guimpe, to which may be added under-sleeves, will give the requisite elaboration as the finishing touch to a dress that is otherwise devoid of all trimr-sng. Point de Venise, or rather a clever imitation of that rare and exquisite lace, is used by the most fashionable dressmakers for collars, guimpes, and sleeves, and their chief preference in shades is a deep ochre suggestive of the mellow tint produced in old lace by time. Gold, silver, and platinum net are useful for the purpose, and black tulle is being employed, adding to many a frock just the touch of refinement it requires to make it perfect. It is extremely useful to have in the wardrobe dresses decorated with black

guimpe* that call b» .worn •at any time and always with satisfaction-— _>•" The transparent black. Collar chemi-'- ’ sette is not so modish, as it was, and ther? 'seems, -every probability of the heavy lace one succeeding to the.-popu-larity it has lately possessed. *. Before they had fairly left us, the

Empire fashions are back again, and the newest frocks from the great artists show a decided tendency toward the s'liort-waistcd effects, which distinguished the garments of the time of Napoleon. J* New Wrist Bags, FLAT ENVELOPE SHAPES WITH dEWELLEDCLASPS. New fashions in wrist-bags are constantly appearing in the shops, and the most fashionable design at the moment is in envelope shape. This bag is quite Hat, and is finished with an envelope flap which is made to fasten right over in the centre with a jewelled clasp. A narrow line of gold appears on , the edges, and the leather used is of the softest variety, such as beaver, suede, antelope, etc. The colourings are in delicate shades of pale or dark grey, deep

purple, and light browns, while the clasps are eitherr-anae-thyst or topaz with a surround of tiny -pearls/#-; ’ The “Vanity” -fittings are small and fla-t, the scent-bottle, small purse, etc., being omitted. The fittings used are in a separate case -in the same leather, which fits iu one of the sides. These

bags are fairly long, but not very deep, the handles being made of narrow strips of the leather caught with tiny gold buckles. In some cases the gold surround and buckles are engraved, but the most effective designs are quite plain. ’ For useful wear there are hew shaped bags in suede or suede cloth, with heavy silk cord handles' which cross over at each end with silk tassels. The sides are opened and lined with soft satin like the old-fashioned “Dorothy” bag, while the centres shut with clasps. There is hardly a photographer nowadays— unless it be the amateur with his dreaded apparatus for exposing all our worst points—who does not count the filmy lace or chiffon scarf among his most valuable assets. Similarly, there is hardly a woman who consents to be without two at least of these accessories to help her through the exigencies of her evening toilette.

Foolish Fashions. HINTS ABOUT MAKING UP VELVET, a- _ . “THE 1910 FEMALE.” LONDON, September 16. It is still forgivable to croak wholeheartedly over the trend of’ Fashion, for she is, at present, showing only silly variations of altogether meaningless modes. Am I not justified in so describing the hat that is le dernier cri, with its frill of lace falling from under an otherwise sensible 'brim, and turning its wearer into a sort of living pin cushion; the great woolly muff that looks as if the owner has caught up a hearthrug and draped it over her two hands; the umbrella, with a red rooster on the handle, that makes ;the sober, middle-aged woman who carries it tools like some innocent idiot with a toy; veils with weird designs—a selection of farmyard denizens and pestiferous insects? Surely we be a strange sex! Pretty trifles there are showing already in the shops, however, and as they’d be useful for Xmas presents, I must tell my readers about them. New Evening Wrapper. One most dainty and becoming thing is a head wrap and scarf for evening wear, made of white woolly material, such as one often has dressing gowns and dressing ..jackets made of. It is a white Dutch bonnet with turn back revers of pale blue, and the “strings” are long scarf ends (buttonholed round with pale blue) that will wind round the neck and keep one very warm. Here, in London, they cost 5/6 each, so the price is not ruinous. Motor Dainties.

Motor bonnets are now,. ~surely, in their most fascinating stage, though they are generally chic and pretty. Now they

are being made of soft-suede in lovely shades of grey, heliotrope, etc., and in Diitch bonnet style are very, demure and becoming.— ' “ Cool ” Colours.

Cerise is apt to be heating in tons, and orange is sure to look hot; and them is also a strong brown that looks positively -baking! On the other hand, there are colours that make one feel cook just to look at them, and one of them is a pale “ice” green, while another is a light cloud blue. White is not always a cool colour. It is sometimes too thick and too milky. Better a transparent black or a blue that is clear and cool like a lake. White looks more cool when relieved by a colour, and black has the same effect. “ The 1910 Female.” The Vicar of Uaris'brooke, in the Isle of Wight, in his parish magazine, recently protested with no uncertain pen against the modern tourist woman. “The 1910 female.” he says, “seems either to be wrapped up in a bundle of rags, with the least clean one spread over her hat and tied under her chin, or else she discards as much of her clothing as she can—leaves her liat at home and gets her head full of dust; exposes her chest to every wind that blows, displays ankles that show the solidity of her understanding, runs about the island half-clad, crumpled, and dustladen. Is it to convey an impression that thev have all travelled in motors?”

Cure for a Cold. Letters from the South Island are bringing me pitiful news of coughs and colds, so I enclose a homely remedy that may be of some use, if it has not already been tried. It is old-fashioned, but good, is for a cold in the head, and is really only onion syrup, made of minced onions, a. tablespoonful of cider, vinegar, and half a cupful of boiling treacle. It is said to be an especially good remedy for hoarseness and sore throat.