The Cultivation of Tomatoes.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLV, Issue 13, 28 September 1910, Page 45

The Cultivation of Tomatoes.

One of our most highly-prized garden crops is tiie tomato. Seedsmen generally catalogue the seed of this plant as a vegetable; fruiterers say it is a fruit; the hotel waiter sometimes is of opinion that it is neither, he regards it as an extra. We are not inclined to quarrel with any of these opinions, but for practical purposes we shall call it a fruit. The tomato is not a difficult plant to grow, it will succeed fairly well in most ■soils, but we have invariably secured the best returns from a medium heavy land, which has been well worked before planting takes place. The piece of land selected for the crop should be deeply dug, and left in the rough six weeks before the planting. The rough digging having thus lain exposed to the elements, will be in good condition for breaking down, which should be done with a digging fork, levelled, and well pulverised. Mark off the ground where you intend to put the plants, 21ft. to 3ft. for upright or staked plants; and sft. to 6ft. for trellises. Take out two good splits with a spade, and apply fertiliser*, which may consist of a forkful of welllotted manure, and two handfuls of commercial fertiliser. This may be compounded of equal ■part.’* of bonedirst and superphosphate and a small quantity, not exceeding two ounces, of sulphate of potash. These ingredients should bo thoroughly incorporated in the soil a ml Bpread out so that the roots can benefit Hs they spread out. Tomato roofs spread out a long way, and it is a mistake to place all the fertiliser in a six inch space,

as is often done. Having attended to this important matter, return the two spits of soil removed, level up and set the plants. Mo-d amateur growers buy the plants from the seedsmen, and no doubt this is the easiest and least expensive plan; but the buyer should be careful to see that the plants he is buying are sufficiently hardened off to be safe to plant

out. Numbers of the plants wo Tutve seen exposed for sale in boxes are forced plants, and altogether too soft and tender for planting outside. Such plants, if they survive, experience such a cheek when planted out, that they never make the same steady growth as properly hardened plants do. Some amateurs blame the salesmen for offering such delicate plants, but the salesmen say they must cater for the buyer, and though they know the plants are not fit to put out, say that if they don't keep such the buyers will go where they can get them, and we believe this is so. At the same time we think that, if salesmen would only be content to keep thoroughly hard-ened-off plants, they might lose in the beginning but ultimately the public would know where such were to he got, an I in the long run the salesman would benefit. Don’t try to got long spindly plants; these are forced. Seek out medium sized, stocky, thrifty plants, which show indications of having been grown in cool houses, and hardened off in the open for two or three weeks. We never advocate planting too early. If tomatoes are set out in cold land before the weather is warm, they turn a dark colour, and make no progress. October, in our opinion, is the most suitable month to plant out. In sheltered positions the end of September may be suitable, but there is seldom little gained by planting very early. When setting. the plants should be firmed, an I given a light watering. In t r.in-pl inting lift a.s much soil with the roots as possible; the more soil you can lift with the plant roots the less check will they receive to their starting afresh. When the plants have made a fair growth, say about 2 feet, they may be given a stimulant of about 2 ounces of nitrate of soda to the square yard. This can be given just before, or during rain. The training of tomatoes is one on which opinion*. differ; they may be trained single stem or double stem, and staked, or a trellis or wire fence mav be used, or they may be

allowed to grow naturally. *1 he finest fruit is secured by the '•ingle stem >ytern, but excellent fruit is al-.» got by the double, trelli- and fence .-ydMtb. Grown naturally, the fruit i> not so uni form in size, nor so clean, but very go » 1 crops are grown in thK way. The question is frequently put: What i- the best tomato to grow* And this is a question easier asked than to answer, Fir-t of all. there is the matter of quantity. Mostly everyone loves a big crop: but then big crops are not always the best quality. Then some kinds do better on certain soils than others, and some do not like a ribbed tomato. In determining the vari ety or varieties to plant, we invariable give preference to Dominion grown seed. Experiments have demonstrated tha.t for open-air culture imported seed is a long way behind that grown in the Dominion. When a ribbed tomato is not objected to. and a big crop desired, with early ripening, the large red type is the best. Imported seed of this type is not satisfactory. but there are two Im al improved varieties of this type which give great satisfaction; these are, Yates’ Market Favourite, and Palmer's Selected. The former seems to have been selected for early maturity and good cropping qu ilities. and Jess prominent ribbing: the kilter is a deeper red. Lut docs not appear to have been selected for shape >o much as size. Both are great croppers, and very largely grown. Holme’s Supreme is a variety now popular in the Auckland province; it is not of large size, but is a good cropper. Yates’ Selected Trophy is a good late round sort which docs well on heavy soils. Carter’s Sunrise, one of the newer varieties will. I think, become popular before long. It is a line cropper, good quality and size. Improved Peach, an 1 some of the yellow varieties are well worth growing, and a few of tl;* small fruiting kinds should not be overlooked. King Humbert is a great cropper. Small fruited sorts are appreciated for dessort. VERONICA.