The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIV, Issue 8, 23 February 1910, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

The Picturesque Coiffure. ■fTA ATURALLY the braid or twist B must be pinned to the rest of I f the hair, but wire hair-pins are / used to do thi? invisibly. Occasiontlly ornamented shell pins are thrust in each sine of the twist, or perhaps one is worn either directly in the back or in the front.

Velvet bands are very smart and pretty in the hair, and are, in fact, almost It necessity in the new flat coiffures, both for keeping them tidy and for giving them that air of distinction that Fashion insists upon.

Sometimes the knot of hair is made broad and full and posed rather high on the head. The sides of the hair are flat and ondule, and the tresses brought down well over the ears.

This is a very becoming mode if one possesses well-cut features, but woe betide the maiden who tries it whose profile is not attractive, for this arrangement will most assuredly bring out all the bad points in the face.

In addition to the ribbon bands worn in the hair, there are many ribbon flowers and bandeaux, having gilt and silver tinsel and other' tassels suspended from the ends.

These are worn in many different ways, but the most popular arrangement seems to be with the band tied in a small bow and the tassels suspended at or about the centre of the front of the crown. Combined with some of the most recent forms and modifications in women’s hairdress, the bang style, which had

ite« heaviest reign about tyenty years ago. is again in evidence.

Not the severely plain bang entirely covering the forehead and trimmed along the crow line, but a frizzy, scattered fringe of curls, hanging loosely along the top of the forehead.

The hats of the moment are in nearly every case guileless of bandeaux, and are worn well down on the head. They are smaller in size, and infinitely more becoming, and in every way distinct improvements on those of a year ago. Embroideries are a good deal used on some of the toques, some of which are almost capotes. These capotes I strongly advocate for those whom they may suit, though let it not be thought that they suit all. J* J* Hats for children cannot be too simplebut a smart touch can be given by a vivid touch of colour in a well-tied knot or bow. A light make of felt is the most serviceable for winter, and the new stitched velveteen hats are inexpensive and generally becoming, besides 'being beautifully light. Long-haired beavers, too, are much worn for young people, as well as their elders. Coats are not here illustrated, but that they may be generally useful they should be simply made of half or three-quarter length, double-breasted, with velvet or plainlystitched collars and revers. Velveteen will also be worn for smart occasions.

Long and severe lines dominate the clothes designed this season for school wear. The vogue of the plain tailormade, three piece suit is everywhere strongly emphasised, the plainer suits being much more popular than the fancy trimmed types. Serge is the favourite material for these suits. The two toned serges are particularly smart. Though it is too early to predict autumn styles with real accuracy, the ma-

ierials and lines show that there will be a courting of the.simple. the conservative and inexpensive. It looks as if women were satiated by the extreme and costly and longed for the modest and easy old style of garments. This does not mean that every suggestion of the Direetoire and Empire style.is fading, but it is handled more conservatively. Even my own country women are dressing simpler than they did six months ago.

Tailor-made shirt waists are wonderfully popular for morning wear, and also are worn afternoons for shopping and walking. Linen in white and whife with coloured stripes is used for the finest of the waists, while Madras, cotton, and messaline also are fashionable. The less expensive tailored waists are made of soft cashmeres, albatross, and challis. Pretty blouses are fashionable with young misses and children. Though made in a number of attractive models those intended to slip over the head are especially in vogue. These are seen in a half dozen colours and are made of serge, Panama, and similar materials.

The yoke skirt which has occupied such a prominent place in women’s garments is just as extensively worn by schoolgirls. While many plain, scant tailored skirts are to be seen, there is a

great increase noticed in tlie flare and the amount of material employed* in the newest models, and, on the whole, the plaited skirt is the more in favour than the one too *>everely cut.

There is the most varied assortment of designs among these plaited models', some giving a pane! effect front and back, formed of two three-inch box plaits, which are opened out just below the knees, while again there are displayed many of the long, familiar full skirts, with plaits an inch or so apart, fastened down to a little below the knees. From there the material is permitted to flare out widely.

Most frequently, however, the upper part of these skirts in composed of a plain-fitting yoke, while at the knees it

• plaited flounce under a bias band or fold of the cloth put on to hide the joining. In faet, there is no limit to the vagaries of the walking skirt of the moment, and the more ingenious the combination of Hat effects about the hips wit’ll fullness below the knees the more desirable. All these skirts are made four inches from the ground. All exaggeration in regard to the

The figure shows us a charming novel gown of palest pink charmeuse. ■ Th'e skirt is 'prettily looped up to show an under-dress of mousseline de soie in the same shade of pink. Tire front drapery is caught effectively with a bow of black velvet,which appears again at the side of the waistband, finished with fringed ends. The guitnpe and «sleeves are of palest pink filet net, lightly embroidered in silver. This smart toilette is worn with a hat of pink Tagak straw, arranged with a full crown of black velvet. length of the line above the natural waist line has disappeared, and on many strictly tailor-made skirts there is a return to the one-inch belt, the waist line always being in the normal position.