The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIV, Issue 4, 26 January 1910, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

FOR our holiday travels foulard is the material which is uppermost in everyone’s favour. It packs so well, and it always looks the very thing, whatever the weather almost. Very new and smart are the cheek and narrow striped foulards, far newer than the old flowered and conventional patterned foulards. On the other hand, some very taking design, in foulards of a flowering pattern are being smiled upon by some Paris dressmakers, some old-fashioned flowers, siich as daisies, forget-me-nots, cornflowers, and moss-rose buds being strewn over a cream or parsley patterned ground; these make very girlisn and summery gowns. French linen, which is less crushable than the ordinary sort, is largely used for holiday frocks, the skirt and corsage of the Princess type, and the coat sleeveless. These linens are trimmed with coarse broderie russe, which, with its bright, crude colouring, looks just th, thing. NIiAV BLOUSES. The changes in the style of the blouse is a never-failing subject of interest, for instead of growing less popular, this useful article becomes more and more essential. The question of short or long sleeves agitates the wearers of blouses as seasons succeed each other, and every woman who knows how to dress is well

aware that a sleeve too long or not long enough may utterly condemn even a choice toilette. The blouses of the near future allow extreme latitude to individual taste, but the woman who wishes to be quite correct will make her simple blouse look as flat and square as possible. This effect is gained by wide pleats broadening at the shoulders. English women adhere to the white blouse for use with all sorts of costumes. They have never followed the example of the French and American in wearing silk or muslin blouses to match their costumes, nor has the plaid variety ever “caught on.” This season white ones have been as much worn as ever, but some of the best have had coloured stripes or spots to repeat the colour of the costume, which is also introduced in the band and necktie. Those of a cotton crepe, white, coloured, or patterned with a deep frill to the left side, and fastened with coloured enamelled muttons, were more worn in Paris than they have been in London. The newest blouses show those frills, and a variety of soft silk either thick or thin is used for making themAs for sleeves, the number from which selection may be made is legion. Much experimenting has been going on amongst designers with results more or less satisfactory. A little cape will appear over some of the more dressy sleeves, and the

leg of mutton will be quite fashionable. Although this has not, so far, assumed exaggerated proportions, it may be taken as an indication of the return of the monster sleeves which led to extremes not so very long ago. Dressy blouses, that is blouses for afternoon wear and for theatre-goers of modest aspirations in the way of dress, show most elaborate decoration. Silk will be pleated and draped and shirred, it will be heavily encrusted with embroidery, and it will Ik* outlined with bands of ribbon, velvet, or of passementerie. Whole blouses will b? made of embroidered linen squares inset with lace, and the use of buttons will go to an extreme. Some of the new leg-of-mut-ton sleeves are closely drawn or shirred to one side, and then outlined with loop? over velvet buttons, which fulfil no possible purpose. Collars and shoulder insets of lace, buillonnes of lac? at the elbows appear even in blouses < f plain t’h'rk r-dlk, with cape-like sleeves from the shoulder.

STOCKINGETTE GARMENTS FOR THE ENTHI’SIASTIC SWIMMER. Nowadays, non-swimmers 'and swimmers alike art* more than fastidious on the question of their attire. The faded khaki-coloured garment is no longer the quarry of the seaside visitor. As a matter of fact, most women with any respect for their personal ’appearance prefer to invest in their own dresses. A neat and serviceable garment, which is well made and chosen from light and pretty materials, is very easily secured, while, however determined the swimmer may le to abjure the more decorative kind of dress, the well-made stock garment which is the most sporting type of bathing ’attire, and which is usually carried out in dark navy blue or black trimmed with scarlet or white washing lia’d, can by no means be ranged with the atrocities which many women were content with ten years ago. YOGI E FOR DARK LOLO ( RS. Black and plain dark colours are alnys the* most satisfactory in the end jrhere bathing dresses arc* concerted. The? Varisivnnc* has a spec hil fancy for dainty garments of black satin, trimmed in a variety of ways and not infrequently elaborately embroidered in washing silks. Though we inay be* inclined to condemn tin* idei of satin as a useless extravagance* in such a connection, the* choice of a bathing dness of this niateriul is by no means so impracticable as it sounds, and it always looks both neat and smart. With her elaborate bathing dress. too, the Frenchwoman almost invariably wears long black stock mgs, a-nd demotes

a great deal of attention to the question of her w<*adgear, whether it is only a little handkerchief cap or a pretty rustic rat which sliades her face and keeps the dazzling shafts of sunlight out of her

Verv pretty ami expensive is another girlish model shown in this figure, in white e.ishmos'v. which would be quite smart for gaAlen partied. The chemisette and sleeve-, ai< <*f tucked coarse net, and th< rever* are of I fish crochet. A pretty pink Tagnl hat is provided for wearing with th.- fr< cIA I’he hat is adorned with large r'*ett\p of black and white tulle, .with a large jetttsl plaque in the centre. It is tied un !< r the chin with black velvet ribbons. Rather fascinating are th< <o incongruoii* but very fashionable douches of jet, which appear <»n the simpl. -4 toilette- for day wearMany of the French gown- in linen ami tussore are decorate! with little chains of jet arranged around the collar* and cuff*. Although this arangemnt sounds somewhat out ol place lor day wear, it is extraordinarily effective, and one ftlwnv- gladly welcomes any little touch uf novelty add- to the smartness of the general scheme.

ARRANGEMENT OF THE SCARF. There is, besides a great deal to le •aid for the long, dainty wrap or cloak, which is invariably made to match her gown when she takes her journey to the sea from the little bathing hut under the shadow of the cliff, which is like-

grise the receptacle for all the odds and ends of needlework, toys, or books which Bhe and her family require for the day. Englishwomen are apt to neglect this portion of the bathing dress altogether, substituting a superannuated waterproof ffloak instead.

- STRIPED MATERIALS. Striped materials are always effective for bathing dresses, and draped washing silks trimmed' with plain materials will be largely employed this season, while natural tussore adorned with black is used in many instances, and black and blue 'alpaca have both their claim to attention. Some very pretty garments

fashioned of fine cream serge or white alpaca have collars and trimming/of pale blue silk and striped blue and white sashes, while scarlet will always have its need of attention from dark women, '.ml mauve and white provide another charming alliance which deserves mention.

Of the palest dove-grey satin and ninon. Embroided in silver and supplemented with a belt and tie of rose du Baxri velvet.

in very soft rose-coloured muslin with <*inbroideries of deeper rose and silver. Large black hat with rose buckle and silver ribbon.

made in the latest style, with square-cut neck, of pale blue washing silk buttoned down one aide and trimmed with sclf-col oured cloth.