In Dutch New Guinea.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIII, Issue 21, 24 November 1909, Page 13

In Dutch New Guinea.

Natives stTll in the stone age. EXPLORERS’ STRANGE EXPERIENCES. After two years among the savages in Dutch New Guinea, Mr. Pratt, a British naturalist, and his two sons, have returned to Samarang, Java, with strange experiences to tell. Mr. Pratt is a seasoned explorer of 55 years. His travels have extended over wide territories in China, Thibet, Scmth America, and Asia Minor. He had four years in the British and Dutch sections of New Guinea, and then took a vacation in Great Britain.

Two years ago he came out with his two sons, and landed at Doreh, in Geelvink Bay, where missionaries have been stationed for over 50 years. Behind Doreh stretch the Arfak Mountains, with two large lakes, lying at a height of 8000 ft above the sea. There the naturalists took up their quarters, in the midst of savage Papuans, whose characteristics they soon discovered were untrustworthiness and thirst for blood. They were right on the extreme fringe of the Dutch authority, so had to look after themselves to the utmost. They found the savages far below the African natives, without knowledge or understanding of. the most elementary virtues —even kindliness or thankfulness. They were of good physique, and lived partly by agriculture, but their habits were loathsome. It was largely due to his ability to keep his temper, even under provocation, that Mr. Pratt was able to manage them. They fancied that the traveller must have supernatural powers to control his anger, and in addition to that they were notified by the Dutch authorities that any harm to the naturalists would meet with prompt vengeance. At night the tent of the explorers was guarded by a fierce watch dog, of which the natives were much afraid. In the day time this dog always remained with the one of the party left on guard, while the others explored in company invariably. In this way they have gathered large collections of birds, insects, and plants. Their tent was pitched in an exposed position, far from any native dwellings, and into these huts they never went unless it became necessary, and then never alone. For food they had tinned provisions, plantains, and potatoes, but so tough were their constitutions that this scanty range of diet did not affect them. Besides, the climate around the lakes was glorious. Two thousand feet high up in the mountains it was bitterly cold at night, but the natives could stand it without any clothing at all. At night they have a process of providing themselves with fire. They carry on scarcely any trade, and live mainly on plantains and potatoes, the latter having been introduced by missionaries in 1855. Perpetual warfare is waged among the tribes, for treachery is constant, and

every death leads to blood vengeance. The naturalists were often goaded, to near the danger point of shooting, but restrained themselves, and so won, to some extent, tho confidence of the savages. Head hunting is the custom of the land, and not merely are villages, but also houses at war against housed. The result is that fear and treachery stalk like twain demons through the island. Women never go out, except under armed masculine guard. They do the work in the fields, with a man guarding them with his native weapons. European and Chinese traders who have attempted to treat the savages with their own methods have rued the day, for vengeance has fallen swiftly in the night. It is a country where every rustle m-ay mean the approach of deathbearing treachery. Even their warfare is stealthy murder, not open fighting in which -bravery is required. After a year at the lakes the travellers went to Humboldt Bay, where the moan 1 - tain natives are still in the Stone Ago, and had never seen any European. They live miserably on wild plants, insect*, and grubs, with an occasional wild pig as a delicacy. In the distance they sighted the standing problem of New Guinea —the Snowy Mountains. Certain scientists have scoffed at the title, maintaining that in that latitude there are no snow mountains’, and what has been seen is the reflection of light from white rocks on the mourn tain tops. Mr. Pratt is convinced, howy ever, that they are veritable snow caps. The sons are staying for three or four months in Schoutcn Island, where there is a military poet. Theti they- are going home to England with their father for a rest before returning to New Guinea' to carry their explorations still farther into the unknown recesses of savage regions.