The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIII, Issue 18, 3 November 1909, Page 69

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

A Diary of the Modes. THE fact is universally acknowledged by mothers that it is the care that is lavished upon the

hair and its well being, rather than the elaboration with which it is dressed, that means so much in the suc-

cess fill manipulation of the schoolgirls’ tresses.

No mother who values the radiant beauty of her daughter’s hair permits it to be touched with hot irons or

curlers of any descript ion, with the one exception of soft white rags, and even ■they are not permitted in many cases.

The hair is left in its natural state, and shining after the excellent brushing it has received, is dressed, as befits the schoolgirl, in some simple manner that becomes her face. How exquisitely demure looks the girl whose thoughtful eves and serious brow

demands the straight centre parting and soft “curtains” of hair looped at the sides and then drawn to the back to be fixed with a big ribbon bow in their place above the “waterfall” of tresses that flow down the back.

How doubly and delightfully roguish is the appearance of her Tom boy sister’s naturally curly hair when it is dressed clustering about her temples and in the nape of her neck, where it is caught together in a big bunch beneath the confining restraint of a ribbon bow. During the heat of summer the Catogan plait -is an excellent resource. The

hair is carried backwards from the brow and is softly and loosely plaited in the nape of the seek. The plait is then doubled and the ends, which are tucked beneath, are tied to the upper part by the inevitable length of ribbon. Ribbon is far better for the hair than slides of any kind are, and far more in keeping with the simplicity of girlhood. It is foretold that the fringe will come back into fashion soon, and a very quaint and pretty mode it is, as pictures of children of the Stuart period and of the ’seventies of last century amply prove. There were many quarrels with the fringe when last it was in fashion. Mothers said it caused their children to become addicted to nervous twitohings of the eyes, that it was untidy, and that when once the hair had been trained to fall over the brow it was difficult to alter its course, when the little girl became too old to wear it in that way. That is the reason whv it was banish-

ed, and that for a short time tiie mistake was made of curling the hair in front with heated irons and by other mechanical means, a crime rarely cocn-m-itted in these days. The sleeve question is one that causes much speculation in the summer and hoped for novelties, which at this season of the year are usually forthcoming. One of the smartest dressmaking houses is allying its name to the sleeve that is not unlike the bishop model, though in

numbers of instances it is slashed up the inner arm to show an undersleeve, almost but not quite a.s full. As for the long and closely fitting sleeves, so trying to thin arms, wiliieh resemble sticks in its embrace, they a;e not nearly so pre-eminent as they were, which is on-ly natural when thin materials are demanded by t he weasthe.r. A frock of elay-coioured Shantung seen the other day had long sleeves arranged with wide tucks, held down at the baek of the arms by Wack satin covered buttons. A frill of ecru laee finished the sleeves and fell far over the hands. NOVELTIES IN COTTON FABRICS. Many of the new cotton materials are exceedingly smart. Some of them have all the tini.-h an 1 appearance of srlk, and in a remarkable degree the manufacturers have discovered a way of weaving cotton materials that do not crush. Serpent crepe is one. and another is a very soft linen with a gloss on it like satin. There is yet a third very beautiful crepe, wihieh makes the softest and most becoming of blouses to be worn with the tailor-made dress, be it of linen or of light weight doth. Cotton interwoven with silk showing dots of different sizes is a further resource, and as for our oM friends the batistes they are os fr<wn and pretty a* can be for warm days, though their life outside the w.iehtub is not long. FLOUNCES OF LA< E IN VOGUE AGAIN. Happy is the girt who looks delightful In a dress that is as simple as it is practical, and there are few girls who do not. Once more wo are welcoming frills back fo the dreaiMr%king schemes of the sunt

season; they have been absent so tong that it is a pleasure to see them •gain. The corsage of the gown under consideration has a deep guuupe of mousseline de soie ruffled with face, and the shoulders are draped en fichu with the same material, ends of which depend from the belt of crushed blue satin ronevted twice in front and at the back. The sleeves are of the milkmaid pattern, and extend only- to the elbows, and the hat is a shady Dolly Varden shape developed in pure white chip, with trimmings that repeat the touch of blue that forme the waist-band. ONE CHARACTERISTIC SHARED. Every dress, be it simple, withal expensive, cotton toilette or the sumptuous gown that is made for court wear, shares one characteristic, and that is the wealth of embroidery that is lavished upon it. Amazing is the skill with which upon a background as filmy as a cobweb silk and bullion embroideries are wrought. All the most exquisite frocks are embellished with hand stitchery which must have taken a very long tame to execute. There was one toilette of white chiffon, embroidered with silk, the corsage of which was carried out in gold lace veiled with chiffon. How pretty a fancy is this for covering an elaborate back-

ground with a veiling of transparent material, and how suggestive of a precious picture glazed to keep it from detriment. THE REGAL BLACK POPPY. For every type of entertainment that implies a garden or a river the white embroidered muslin frocks of the lingerie type are ideal. So also are the linen dresses that are one mass of Madeira work. Madeira work is a very dose relation to broidorie Anglaise, but we are giving it the less customary name this season to differentiate it from past possessions. Among a galaxy of gowns made by a great firm for the races were observed several effective and distinguishing characteristics. One was the touch of black that is still in high favour, seen in a ■otabie instance upon a coat and skirt toilette of bright green tussore, relieved with black satin revers. Into the coat Waa tucked an enormous black poppy.

and—is it necessary to add?—a completely black hat was worn. LININGS MADE IMPORTANT. Black moire antique was used in another case as the lining of a long green cloth coat, and all the seams of the lining were accentuated by straps of stitched green satin. With a white embroidered muslin robe a hint of colour is effective, and green is a very favourite choice. A rosette of green satin ribbon, planted rather high in the centre of the corsage, with straps of the ribbon carried to the back of the bodice, and there fastened beneath a second ehou to hang in long streamers, adds an arrestive note to a white frock, and pale ciel blue plays the same part with every success. d* Pinafore Frocks. Pinafore frocks cut all in one are charming for practical country wear in linen, zephyr, delaine, muslin, or in cotton and inexpensive fabrics. They are very pretty too made in the new coarse filet nets over foundations of pongee.

One of the very effective, but rather eccentric novelties, of which we shall

see a few specimens, is the tunic effect in embroidered cashmere de soie over an under-robe of closely pleated gauze of the same tone. In reality, these tunics form a kind of close-fitting corselet, and have to be so skilfully cut as to avoid that square unbecoming line which is one of the worst revivals of the 1860 period. Still, if waist-line be skilfully treated, the effect can be charming, and prettier certainly than the new fishwives’ skirts. The latter are best made in such fabrics as cashmere de soie, crepe de Chine, and tussore. The bodices worn with these are hard ami plain, something after the Directoire and Princess style that we have worn so long. The draping of these new skirts tails right across the hips and-back, and finishes above the knees in true “fishwife” fashion. Sometimes the 'lower part of the drapery is turned up with a contrasting colour. This may be a change, but I do not think it is picturesque, and

there is no doubt that these tightly draped elaborations are not fitted for out-of-door occasions. They strike an incongruous note, and, with rare exceptions, “fishwives’ ” skirts will not be a universal success. Washing Dresses. Washing dresses were never more pleasing than this year, and the pretty fabrics and styles are innumerable. Now is the time to make these hot-day frocks, and four attractive examples are pictured. The first is a very smart white linen with raised embroidery in soutache—all of course made to withstand the onslaught of the laundress. The sleeve has a lacing of thick white cord finishing in tassels, and the under sleeves and guimpe are of the finest tucked lawn, inlet with Vai. insertion.

The seated figure wears a dainty white muslin, with tucks and insertions of fine lace, and a Peter Pan collar. Beside this is a pale green gingham. frock with white embroidery and a vest and sleeves of white tucked lawn.

The 'smart little walking dress is of amethyst linen with reliefs of amethyst and white striped linen. The large linencovered buttons which ostensibly fasten the frock down the left side are attractive, and the pretty hat trimmed with masses of mauve and white hydrangea is most becoming.