The World of Fashion.

New Zealand Graphic, Volume XLIII, Issue 11, 15 September 1909, Page 68

The World of Fashion.

By

MARGUERITE.

ITH Spring here, it is time I that one’s wardrobe was replenished without delay, and now the wonders and delights of new materials and new colours are spread before us, it should not be difficult ito choose. Two of the daintiest colours are a Boft mushroom pink and straw. The latter is exactly the tone of straw as it leaves the threshing floor, and in the Batin cloths, which still remain the most popular fabric, is particularly chic- 1 noticed a frock of this colour made in tunic style, with the top of the corsage and underskirt of glistening net. On this a handsome scroll design of the cloth is appliqued with good effect. Embroideries still play an important part, but on the new models bolder designs are being used, carried out in self colour in a great many cases, while in ethers a small piece of rich Oriental colouring gives relief to a gown of more Bombre hue. A material that has been greatly improved in texture and wearing qualities as Shantung. Indeed, it would be difficult to believe that those prepared for this Beason are the same as the old-fashioned Shantung, which could only be bought in the one natural colour. Shantung rayon is the name of one of these varieties, a silk having a thick grain, almost like a poplin, only silkier, and this can be had in some exquisite shades. For elegant race coats Shantung rayon is an ideal material, and for dainty frocks lends itself to the careful drapery so essential to the success of a dress of to-day. That frills at the top of our collarbands are doomed by the best dressmakers seems a foregone conclusion, but only a few will be able to wear the Puritan collars without neckbands. This style is very becoming to young girls With round faces and moderately long

throats; but what are the women with necks three inches long to do? In lawn, very deep and plain, a collar of this description will enhance the cream serge coat for summer wear, and many of the blousuits of simple make and material are showing them. For those who prefer their throats covered, I recommend a collar-band and tiny vest of fine net and lace, and then the turn-down collar, cut rather lower than usual, fixed to the dress itself. J* Trimming from the Back is to be one of the Features of the New Millinery. There are no end of charming hats in the new spring millinery. At first the arjay is bewildering, and it seems as though every hat was a different shape. Then, as one gradually becomes accustomed to them, a faint family resemblance is discovered in several, and one soon finds that it is the new and clever arrangement of trimmings which has considerable to do in making this diversity of shapes. New straws, new shapes, new trimmings, and new colour schemes are shown in greater number than ever before, so that the women who are always seeking something entirely different from what they have seen before must, for once, acknowledge that a feast has been provided for them. Yet the woman who is a bit more conservative in her taste, and prefers something to which her eye is more accustomed, has by no means been forgotten, though the shapes that are reminiscent of the past season take on new dimensions or some new curve that makes them even more attractive. SUBDUED TAPESTRY COLOURS. Praises without end could be sung in favour of the new millinery colours.

They are those soft, subdued, artistic tones only to be found in old tapestries. Straws, flowers, feathers, and ribbons

are all shown in these beautiful tones, and, while at first thought blue, purple, and even green roses are anomalies, it may be hard to accept, after one sees the clever combination of several of these odd blossoms upon one of the new hats, conversion is instantaneous. Colour is to be an important factor this season, for while the all-blaek hat

will be worn in most instances, tie black shape will be trimmed with both coloured flowers and ribbons. One very striking black hemp hat is of the Louis XVL order, having a slightly upturned brim at the left side. The high crown is draped with wide black moire ribbon, and several stiff little bows of narrower moire ribbon are placed on the moder-ately-wide brim. Two moderately-long willow plumes are fastened at an angle of 9Odeg to the front of the hat. This hat could quite as well be worn with several costumes, as could the all-black Neapolitan poke. This, too, has an enormously high crown, with a rather narrow front brim that gradually widens until at the back it is of goodly dimensions. The high crown is draped with a soft satin ribbon sash-width, the ends of which are drawn through a cut jet buekle in the back. These ends are fully a yard and a-balf long, and are intended to be worn either hanging down the back or crossed in front and fastened with a jewelled brooch. Other black hats that are trimmed with black have coloured facings, preference for this purpose being given to satin finished crepes and to chiffon. Thus the woman to whom black against the face is trying—and there are many sueh—may wear the useful black hat by having it faced with the colour which is most becoming to her, of course taking into consideration to some degree the colour which will harmonise with the majority of her costumes. BLACK HATS TRIMMED WITH COLOUR. The black hat trimmed with a colour is mostly found among the flower-laden hats. One of the most attractive of these models is of the new mushroom shape, the sole ornamentation being an encircling band of fine flowers of various colours mingled with a discreet amount of foliage. Another model suitable for a young girl, but which could be copied, with other flowers, is literally covered with large white daisies. Only the blossom is used for this trimming, it being sewn flat to the shape, and there is a bow of light blue ribbon at one side. While the coloured hat is to be the dominating hat of the season, this does not necessarily imply that the hat must match the costume with which it is to be worn. The fashion idea is rather that the coloured hat shall harmonise with the costume, so that there is considerable latitude in the choice of the coloured hat. To be sure, there are women who will prefer the hat to match the costume, and with the amethyst gown wall select an amethyst hat, for a green dress a green hat, and so on throughout ths entire range of colour. But the up-do-date woman will choose a hat of one of the new indefinite shades, and so give the latest style touch to her toilet, and this will be particularly true for the tailored suit.

TRIMMED FROM BACK. A particularly happy combination of colours is a model in rough grey straw, ornamented with a paradise feather in several shades of amethyst and with a band of dull green velvet encircling tha

crown. Another grey mushroom model is trimmed with small pointed amethyst wings. The novelty consists in the way the trimming is posed as the dozens of little wings are pointed from the back toward the front. This trimming from the back is to be one of the features of the new millinery, particularly for the hat of moderate size. This is due to the fact that the majority of these hats set down »ver the head, for the hat this season is really a head-covering. The new hats mean death to the pompadour, to the physician’s pet abomination, the rat, and the roll. For these wise men say that these articles keep the head so warm that they are disease breeders of the

worst kind. So they should be strong upholders of the new styles in millinery, which will cause the hair to be modestly parted in front, and then waved and slightly extended at the sides, with the mass of hair arranged in puffs or big knots at the back of the head. J* J* Garlanded With Blossoms. Asked to determine what was the most beautiful trimming the present season of dress has been given for the evening toilette, an authority decided in favour of the floral garniture seen upon a robe made for a recent regal occasion. It was a robe of shaded blue tulle that was thus decorated, and the shading graduated from a pale grey-white to an azure of blue. Upon this effective background roses were arranged, roses made of ribbon so natural in their lovely pink and “tea” shades that they looked as if they had been plucked from the bushes. The foliage that surrounded them was embroidered on the tulle, another proof of the skill of the workwomen responsible for a singularly fascinating toilette.